Stock 2g engine upgrades...

I am planning upgrades for my future 2g. I was aiming to get about as much horsepower as I could without taking away from reliability, going inside the engine, and I want to maintain decent gas milage if possible. What should I do? I figured I would drop in a FP big28, Greddy Type S BOV, 3" turbo back exhaust, tubular/ ported header, high flow cat, manual boost controller, intake, 500-600cc injectors, high flow fuel pump, lightweight pulleys, and an AEM EMS. Does that sound ok? Is there anything else I should get? About how much HP would that push? Could stock internals handle that? Would a ported and polished head or an intake manifold be necessary? How high could I turn the boost up? 20psi? 25 psi? What about nitrous? I dont want a big shot of that stuff, but I wouldnt be opposed to a small shot. How much could the stock internals handle if any? Well, thanks to any who respond, I really appreciate any and all help. - Thor06

Internals handle about 350 hp I believe, with that setup, you would get more then that and also it would not be a DD car anymore. Dsmtuners.com has an upgrade path. Before you post a common topic, use the search function and type in something like 2g upgrade path, or something else relative to that. Also, put ur car in your sig including the year and model, such as GST, GSX, GS, or RS

If you want reliability I would skip the EMS ;) The stock ecu does a tremendous job at running these motors (stock ECUs have goe 7s). I wouldnt bother upgrading the manifold either, the stock one again is more than enough. Keep it simple. Everything else looks good for a mild upgrade, reliable car, with good mileage. You will need something else though to adjust for the injectors. If you get a 95 with an EPROM ECU, I would strongly recomend DSMlink. For 96-99 you could make a case for the AFC/pocketlogger tpye setup however (I would personally still spend the money to get an eprom ecu and run dsmlink anyway, for what its worth).

Find someone with the goal you want and do as they have. A 16g variant will probably be better than the T28, and cheaper, if you can deal with doing some small things to make the lines work. Drop the pulleys, DSMlink or S-AFC/pocketlogger instead of EMS, and you'll be good. You have the right idea, now to get a parts list, make the best of a few setups you want to imitate. 550cc injectors will be ok for a 16g, 660s would cover you better. Don't touch the head, but feel free to port the exhaust manifold, turbo, and o2 housing. Stock internals will handle anything a 16g/T28 will put out. I've seen nitrous on a T28 run high 11's on stock internals, but I wouldn't recommend nitrous until after you finish this setup. The boost you run will be determined by the tune of your car. It will probably be somewhere between 18 and 22psi (guess) on pump gas.

Without going into the engine you can get around 400hp....that is for a engine in great condition...I personally woulden't want to push it past 350 without upgrading some internals....but people have had 400 on stock engine.

Go dsmlink for best performance, safc will do, but not nearly as well. Depending on where you live injecor size will differ...on pisswater 91, 550's will not get you much past 300whp....on east coast 94 you could probably do 18 on 650s and a fuel pump....But a EVO III does 400hp max, so I would reccomend 650's either way because you will want tuning eventually....and both safc and dsmlink can compensate, so I say go bigger incase you decide to upgrade later. Your gas mileage will depend entirely on how you drive your car...around town just crusing your turbo won't kick in so you will get good mileage...pushing the turbo to 18psi, you will rip through gas pretty quickly. ~15 gal is 56.7 liters, so assuming you are dumping in as much fuel as a 190lph fuel pump can provide (enough for ~400hp, or about as much as you will get out of the evo) you can run the car full throttle for ~18mins if you are putting out 400hp.

my advice to you: set a goal for what you want and stick to it.

i originally wanted to do just the 300hp setup, just a 16g with supporting mods, but here i am, a year later, building a 2.3 liter 6bolt :shakehead

something else you should consider: when you put a stronger clutch in, it will put more stress on your crank and will likely bring out crankwalk much faster than the stock clutch would. I had 100k miles on my 96 tsi awd before i put my ACT2600 in, 6 months later, it crankwalked.

the guy building my 6bolt motor wont even touch 7bolts. he's done dozens of 6bolts, the one 7bolt he did crankwalked after 100 miles... and he did every precaution possible to make sure it didn't happen. :banghead:

you seem to have a decent sized budget for mods (EMS alone costs at least $1500 and it's not really neccesary for 400hp), so i'd do a 6bolt swap first. this will eliminate the chance of crankwalk AND 6bolts have way thicker rods, so you could do more HP than 400 if you wanted to (many have done ~500hp on the stock internals).

good luck with whatever you choose to do :)

-Nate

On a 2g 7 bolt (different form the 1g's) You should not put anything stronger than a act 2100 for risk of crankwalk. I'm sure some people get away with it, but better safe than sorry. I think 2100 holds 375 but could be wrong.

But if you have the money, build a six bolt you will thank yourself later

Ok, thanks for all your help guys. A few more questions though... what is the 6 bolts referring to? Does that mean 6 bolts holding the head on? So the 6 bolt engines are that much more resistant to crankwalk huh? Those were just in the DSM's 90-94 right? Thanks again guys.

All this info is aleady out there, but 6 bolts came in all 90s and 91s, and 99% of 92s.

I wanted to point out that of the 2 motors that crankwalked on me, the one that lasted longest was the one I used with a 2600. For whatever thats worth..