Free mod

I took out my throttle body screen today and it really does improve response when I hit the gas and the car also pulls a lot more and rarely downshifts when going up hills. Good Free Mod from ZZ Performance.

I took out my throttle body screen today and it really does improve response when I hit the gas and the car also pulls a lot more and rarely downshifts when going up hills. Good Free Mod from ZZ Performance.


Hello, what is exactly the throttle body screen?

Hello, what is exactly the throttle body screen?

Here's an old message thread on the pros and cons of the throttle body screen. There are pics to help guide you along. No need to re-invent the wheel.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=383578&highlight=throttle+body+screen


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

Hello, what is exactly the throttle body screen?

I have no regrests doing this free mod to my car. the response is a lot better when i hit the gas. I can see no cons to this modification as stated in that big and long research remark.

I have no regrests doing this free mod to my car. the response is a lot better when i hit the gas. I can see no cons to this modification as stated in that big and long research remark.

I don't think that was a "big long research remark". I think it was the right answer to the question asked. I can't find one thing wrong with it.
Tell you what, reread it. Let us know what you think.
I tried your way a long time back, worked good, for a short time. But as I said. Reread it.

Thanks

Here's a fact:

Removing the throttle body screen does nothing and its removal is subjective. There's always two sides of the coin.

HP gains = Zero

Torque increase = Zero

0 - 60 ft or ET improvements = Zero

Most of us have been there and done that (BTDT).


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

I have no regrests doing this free mod to my car. the response is a lot better when i hit the gas. I can see no cons to this modification as stated in that big and long research remark.


Well i read it again and i decided to put the screen back in. i just dont want to take the risk of injuring my engine in any way.

Well i read it again and i decided to put the screen back in. i just dont want to take the risk of injuring my engine in any way.

Good choice, though it probably would not damage the engine.

There are 3 typical symptoms without a screen:

Poor idle

Possible MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor DTC error

Possible lean condition

The primary reason why the screen removal doesn't do much is this:

If your car is stock without a re-programmed ECU or calibrated MAF sensor like on the ZZP Stage 2 Throttle Body or a Granatelli GMAF, the stock ECU will learn the change/mod over a drive cycle of up to 200 miles and negate the mod. The same thing happens when you put in a K&N air filter. Seems great at first but in the end nothing. The stock MAF leaves alot to be desired because it is very imprecise and uncalibrated.

I hope the info helped and good luck!


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

Good choice, though it probably would not damage the engine.

There are 3 typical symptoms without a screen:

Poor idle

Possible MAF (Mass Airflow) sensor DTC error

Possible lean condition

The primary reason why the screen removal doesn't do much is this:

If your car is stock without a re-programmed ECU or calibrated MAF sensor like on the ZZP Stage 2 Throttle Body or a Granatelli GMAF, the stock ECU will learn the change/mod over a drive cycle of up to 200 miles and negate the mod. The same thing happens when you put in a K&N air filter. Seems great at first but in the end nothing. The stock MAF leaves alot to be desired because it is very imprecise and uncalibrated.

I hope the info helped and good luck!


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials




thank you for the advice. i have a problem though, when i sit at a light my temperature gauge goes from 16 to 210 in no time flat and then cools down once the air hits the radiator. i tried to bleed my coolant system and it worked fine for a day or two n then it happened again. if i install a 180 thermostat will it take care of the problem?thank you for all your help

thank you for the advice. i have a problem though, when i sit at a light my temperature gauge goes from 16 to 210 in no time flat and then cools down once the air hits the radiator. i tried to bleed my coolant system and it worked fine for a day or two n then it happened again. if i install a 180 thermostat will it take care of the problem?thank you for all your help

Sounds like the thermostat is sticking but I'd go with the 180, regardless. How old is your coolant and is it Dexcool? Have you ever done a flush? And is this with the AC on or off? What model GP do you have and engine, mileage? Any mods?


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

Sounds like the thermostat is sticking but I'd go with the 180, regardless. How old is your coolant and is it Dexcool? Have you ever done a flush? And is this with the AC on or off? What model GP do you have and engine, mileage? Any mods?


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

This is with the A/C off. It is Dexicool. Its a 1997 Grand Prix GT with 63400 miles. I have not done any mods other than coesmetics because of money. im only 18 here.got to go to college first. but i was hopeing the would be the beginning of "the modding bug". I do not know how old the coolant is. my guess would be maybe a year.

This is with the A/C off. It is Dexicool. Its a 1997 Grand Prix GT with 63400 miles. I have not done any mods other than coesmetics because of money. im only 18 here.got to go to college first. but i was hopeing the would be the beginning of "the modding bug". I do not know how old the coolant is. my guess would be maybe a year.

I noticed you mentioned the temp. gauge goes from 16 to 210 in no time flat. Is the engine already warmed up or cold when you get this indication?


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

I noticed you mentioned the temp. gauge goes from 16 to 210 in no time flat. Is the engine already warmed up or cold when you get this indication?


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials


If it doesn't go above 210, that is pretty normal for a 195 Tsat, and it's still in the normal range. Found out with the 97 if your stuck for anytime, it will run 210. But, shouldn't go any higher. It's been a while since I ran a stock Tstat. I'd try starting it in the driveway. Let it warm up and see if it goes up and then down. That's the tstat opening and closing. Just keep a damn close eye on it. If it goes to 210 and then down, that's normal. If it doesn't, check to see if fan is coming on. Then flash and replace Tstat.
Good luck.

If it doesn't go above 210, that is pretty normal for a 195 Tsat. Found out with the 97 if your stuck for anytime, it will run 210. But, shouldn't go any higher. It's been a while since I ran a stock Tstat. I'd try starting it in the driveway. Let it warm up and see if it goes up and then down. That's the tstat opening and closing. Just keep a damn close eye on it. If it goes to 210 and then down, that's normal. If it doesn't, check to see if fan is coming on. Then flash and replace Tstat.
Good luck.

I agree Jim, 210 is normal with the stock TS. But what threw me off is his rapid upswing fron 16 to 210 degrees. Temperature rise should be linear as the engine warms up. Don't you think he'd be better off with the 180 degree TS anyways. What say you?

BTW - Your suggestion to go with the 160 TS worked out great at the track. Now if I can just keep that supercharger cool.


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS,TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

If it doesn't go above 210, that is pretty normal for a 195 Tsat, and it's still in the normal range. Found out with the 97 if your stuck for anytime, it will run 210. But, shouldn't go any higher. It's been a while since I ran a stock Tstat. I'd try starting it in the driveway. Let it warm up and see if it goes up and then down. That's the tstat opening and closing. Just keep a damn close eye on it. If it goes to 210 and then down, that's normal. If it doesn't, check to see if fan is coming on. Then flash and replace Tstat.
Good luck.

this is already when the car is warm, running more than fifteen minutes. this week when i have time im going o install a 180 tstat. ill let everyone know how it went. thank you for all your help

this is already when the car is warm, running more than fifteen minutes. this week when i have time im going o install a 180 tstat. ill let everyone know how it went. thank you for all your help


Ok, i did the tstat change today on a cold engine. When i pulled the old tstat out of the housing is when i lost some coolant, i pulled the tstat out n then the coolant ran fer a few seconds n stopped. I'm takeing this is normal??? I put the new one in and followed all directions. So far no porblems but I havent ran it much cause of severe thuderstorms weve been getting the past few days. I won't know if it worked until i get stuck in traffic on a hot and humid day. Will post results.

how often should a flush be preformed?

I took it for a drive finally and made purpose to get stuck in traffic. it was running around 150 n then the traffic. In the traffic it GRADUALLY went to 210 n hovered there but as soon as air hit it it went right back down. I bled the air out of the system but as soon as the hissing stopped that was it, no coolant came out. I am thinking there is still air in the system somewhere. Is there any other bleed valve and how to use it

Was the engine running when you bled the air out? It should be warmed up and running.

Was the engine running when you bled the air out? It should be warmed up and running.

It was warmed up but it wasn't running. I thought you had to turn it off. anyways, it seems to be working fine now. i run a cool 150 on the high and on city streets 180. thank you for all your help

OK, here's how to change a Tstat.
http://www.pfyc.com/supportfiles/tstat/tstat.htm

Now, check to make sure your fan is starting.