Your opinion on this package???

Found this through dsmtuners.com

http://shop.greperformance.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=58&categoryId=2

I want to know whats good or bad about this turbo?If it will bolt up with my 1g? What exactly this TransLab shift kit will do for me and how it might work(i have no idea)????????? Seems cheap but i dont know the slightest about the turbo or any let shiftkit let alone this shiftkit!!!!: (
Let me know, all i need is some more fuel parts and to finish exhaust,,,then cooling(FMIC) and then im ready for something like this..better turbo,possible shift kit....

Yes, it bolts up, but it isn't like you need to package a shift kit with a turbo. I'd get a 16g for a 1g in a heartbeat. Easy decision... 20g if you're going big.

yea I was set for the evoIIIb16g for awhile but I just didnt know what this turbo was capable of power wise(if anyone knows?) and if someone could explain the shiftkit and how it works and what not? advantages? disadvantages?the install?

42lbs/min of airflow, or almost 400whp. You're likely to see a little more power than a normal 16g.

anyone know anything about a shift kit such as:
the advantages or disadvantages??

the install?

fine for everyday driving?

what is exactly does?

thanks so far for the help

EVO III is a good turbo, great spool, pleanty of power, and direct bolt on for 1g.

yea im def. going to stick with my original plan and get the evoIII...sounds like the best bang for the buck. Thanks to the both of you for the help.

--Anyone know any of the answers to my shift kit questions????

anyone????

instead of making your car move at say 500 rpm (that's why you have to hold your foot on the brake while in gear at idle), it changes your shifting to a higher rpm. it's just like in the gokarts at the amusement parks, you have to give it gas to go. depending on what kit you get, your car won't start moving until different rpms. for normal everyday driving i wouldn't suggest it because it would be more of a hassle, your car wouldn't move until after 2000 rpm. it's meant for racing because the car doesn't go until a higher rpm giving you better launches and what not.

instead of making your car move at say 500 rpm (that's why you have to hold your foot on the brake while in gear at idle), it changes your shifting to a higher rpm. it's just like in the gokarts at the amusement parks, you have to give it gas to go. depending on what kit you get, your car won't start moving until different rpms. for normal everyday driving i wouldn't suggest it because it would be more of a hassle, your car wouldn't move until after 2000 rpm. it's meant for racing because the car doesn't go until a higher rpm giving you better launches and what not.

Thanks a lot because I didnt have the slightest clue of how they worked. Ill def stick with the evoIII and hold out on any shiftkit unless its a track car in yr's to come.

I think you guys are talkng about the torque converter stall speed. The shift kit is typically end clutches and some springs that provide for more torque holding capacity and much faster firmer shifts. I highly recomend a shift kit in an AT. The TC upgrade is a little difefferent, and is like you guys have discussed. The stall speed going up doenst mean that the car wont move until that rpm though. It just doesnt become efficient until that RPM (slips a lot). Its great for launching, but can hurt economy a little and make the trans feel a little sloppy at low rpm. Just like turbos and most other things, there are plenty of streetable options in between stock and full race though :) Its late, and I may be missing something; if so I appologize.

Sorry, I should have seen this post. Kevin has it. The kit we have with our DSMs is Dean Mason's Translab shift kit. It's a set of springs that are firmer than stock that fit within the valve body. The idea is for quicker shifts, which is good for both performance and reliability. Less time between gears means less heat in the tranny.

The good news is that this kit is cheap. The bad news it that it looks like a bitch to install (although I've been told it's not). Unlike on my ghey Taurus, you can get the valve body out from under the tranny pan without pulling the tranny. But, the valve body is pretty complicated, and there are lots of little springs and ball bearings. If you forget to mark where a ball goes for reassembly, you're fucked. To make it more complicated, there are twice as many holes as there are balls :)

Your other option is to send it out for someone to install the kit, or buy a "performance" valve body that will have a few modifications, including stiffer springs.

The end clutches are a set of large paper cogs that control the three to four shift. Because they are the end clutches, they are the easiest to get to :) Take the passanger front wheel off and remove the shrouding behind the wheel. There's a four inch diameter circle looking thing and four 10mm (I think) nuts holding its cover on. A small black thingie needed to be removed from right below it, one of the same sized nuts. Take the cover off carefully, and you have overdrive in your hand. The updated clutches are resistant to warping over time and shrinking, and are a good replacement if your teeth are worn. Warping is self explanitory, and happens after repeatedly hard shifts. Shinking refers not to the cogs, which could round off over time, too, but to the thickness of the gasket. When the 8 clutches thin down over time there's slop in the metal casing. So, warping, rounded teeth, and thinned out gaskets are all bad, and reasons for an overdrive to go. The OD going out is the harbinger of a dead tranny.

The end clutch is pretty easy to do. This, along with regular maintainance with the tranny filter and fluid, adding a bigger tranny cooler, and an inline filter, are all ways of keeping your tranny for as long as you can. Fortunately, almost all of this stuff will also help you go faster. If you're looking for over 300hp, the end clutches and shiftkit or upgraded valve body need to be done. The high stall converter would come next. That's where real money starts getting spent.

Good luck with your goals.

Edit>> TCs work like this: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

Thanks to the both of you. It defiantly help me gain some knowledge on whats going on with the kit. Gsx hooptie....i see you know a lot on the install and you plan on doing this to yours? If so...maybe after you do yours....since youre only in NY(im in NJ)...you could make some money and help me out. haha Jus a random idea...the install is def way to involved for me to take on anytime soon. thanks again

...since youre only in NY(im in NJ)...you could make some money and help me out. haha Jus a random idea...the install is def way to involved for me to take on anytime soon. thanks again

I live in a pit called Ithaca, more than an hours drive from any city with over 40K people. I'm about 4 hours from you. That's not the real problem, though-- I'm a shitty mechanic. Not getting down on myself or trying to be funny, I seriously suck more than 4/5 of people on this forum. A job that takes Kevin 2 hours, and the average mechanic 4 hours, takes me two days. That being said, the good news is that even I could do the end clutches. They aren't hard. Mitsu quoted me 4-500 and I did the job in four hours. Think half that time. Make sure you have the tranny fluid beforehand, the clutches need to soak in it for a few. Pretty fail safe job.

Over winter I'll try the valve body and post here to let you know how it goes. Hopefully you'll have yours done by then, but if not, I'll see if I can give some pointers on it. I'm not looking forward to that one.

cool cool...


...so where do you get an up dated tranny cooler?

Im thinking tranny cooler, filter, and the shift kit be good to do for perfomance and the life of the tranny.

I'd help, but trust me, you don't want it ;)

cool cool...


...so where do you get an up dated tranny cooler?

Im thinking tranny cooler, filter, and the shift kit be good to do for perfomance and the life of the tranny.

Good ideas. To add on to that, get a tranny cooler that bypasses the fluid once it reaches a certain temperature. There is such a thing as too cool, or too dense, rather. B&M makes coolers of that style. They're rated by GVW, gross vehicular weight. You don't need a very big one.

Get the translab kit, found pretty much anywhere. About 80 dollars, if I remember right. Probably get it for a tad cheaper if you search.

The filter and fluid stuff is pretty easy, because the stock stuff is generally considered best. That means an OEM filter and Diamond Star fluid.

If you want more info, there's a great write up here: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105099 Most of this is self-explanitory, and revolves around generally caring about the transmission to being with. Good times.