In Progress: Tamiya Ferrari F40

Oh baby! this is some awesome modelbuilding!

Good to see you take your time and think your moves, I m a big fan of your style and it's always such a pleasure to follow this progress!

Olivier

Awesome work, great attention to detail. It seems like you are forseeing every single thing that can go wrong on a project. Well, having this ability makes your work perfect. I can´t see anything that will make this F40 less admirable than your very stunning F50.

Thanks for all the comments, guys. And thanks especially to Fkouch, who came through with an owner's manual for the F40. Cheers, mate!

I'm finally getting around to working on the engine again (meanwhile the body is still being rubbed out). Time for an update.

Here's the engine block/transmission, all painted out.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/9157/11212616kd.jpg

Ferrari sand casts their engine blocks in their own foundry. I chose Tamiya flat aluminum, as it has an agreeeably grainy apearance- I'll use less grainy paint later to represent the welded intercoolers, so a bit of contrast is a good thing.


And here's a good demonstration of why adding a wash is necissary!

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8319/11212622fq.jpg

(No, I didn't just photoshop in additional contrast :rolleyes: ). I like to use artists oil paints, as I find they give excellent control, and look terrific. If anyone is particularly curious how I go about it, I'm putting together a how-to that I'll post on it soon.

The starter motor and ignition coil packs are also painted black here.


http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4276/11212638uv.jpg

Next the coil pack holders are covered in gold bare metal foil. Also, note the Ferrari emblem atop the intake manifolds. Before painting the engine, I covered this with matte aluminum bare metal foil. After painting, I rubbed the paint off of it with a toothpick soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Then, the whole emblem block was painted with red acrylic ink, and allowed to dry. Then, the ink is carefully scraped off of the raised lettering, again with a toothpick and alcohol. Of course, S27 includes this emblem in their set- but who needs PE when you have BMF?


http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2553/11212671dq.jpg

The cylander heads were sprayed with Model Master Acryl flat red. In order to simulate the crinkle finish Ferrari applies to cylander heads, I sprayed the acryl thinned with straight 99% isopropyl alcohol. Doing this causes the paint to partially dry in the airbrush spray stream, giving the paint a rather grainy apearence. It's subtle (and kinda hard to photograph), but it doesn't take much to simulate it. Just make sure you clean your aibrush thoroughly afterwards, as paint tends to partially dry in the spray nozzle, too. The textured paint is scraped off of any places detail paining is done, like the cam shaft ends here. After that, the heads get a wash applied, too.


http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2048/11212663qc.jpg

The heads were than wired with spark plug wires, made from enameled copper wire painted with red acrylic ink.


http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2363/11212646vb.jpg

The engine frame. Had to do a bit of putty work to fill ejector pin marks. I detailed the wishbone A-frame brackets with thin slices of styrene hex rod, and then center drilled the 'nuts' to add stretched sprue 'bolt ends'.


http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2800/11212686pd.jpg

Same frame, painted up. The A-frame brackets and hinge bolts were pinted, and then given a wash. I've seen Ferrari's with these brackets both in bare metal finish and in the black finish the engine frame is painted in, and I kind of like the look of them in metallic. It cues the eye into seeing that the A-frame is a separate part of the suspension, and not just part of the engine frame.

The rear bodywork support rods were covered with BMF.


http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6130/11212721ra.jpg

Finally the cylander heads are added to the engine block, and wired to the ignition coils. The rubber spark plug boots are simulated with a bit of white glue, then painted black.


http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/4374/11212696fc.jpg

The results so far. Good start, but still plenty more to do.

Thanks for looking!

Thanks for taking your phots on a cutting mat so that I know it's a model and not the real thing :)

All those little details make such a difference. Love the hex rod nut idea - can I borrow it?

so many questions but I'll try and wait for the tutorial :)

Why must you tease us with the beautiful pictures. I'm still awed at how much detail someone can put into such a small model. Stunning, it is absolutley stunning. And if you don't mind, could you pm me a diagram of the firing order for the F50?

Awesome work!
Looking forward to your wash tutorial also.

Terrific work, really inspiring. Keep it up!

Awesome work!
Looking forward to your wash tutorial also.

I absolutely agree with both of Captain Mark´s statemants :-))

Looking forward to your "how-to", although I cannot see the pics... :( Don't know what's wrong with the ImageShack website... all pics cannot be seen.

another perfect model on the works! can't wait.

MPWR, I will be blunt. You are my idol on this forum. Your work always amazes me, and I try to mimic your building style and techniques. Please keep up the incredible work, so that I may continue to learn from you.
:thumbsup:

Outstanding build, outstanding work.

Turbo Surgery, Part 2:

When last we left, the patient was cut into multiple little bits on the operating table. What better way to begin this update than by cutting it up even more?

The turbine and waste gate assemblies are pretty prominent on the F40- they sit right atop the transmission. So, they're worth a bit of attention and detailing.

The connections between the waste gate wishbone and the bypass points on the exhaust manifolds is not an easy fit on the kit parts- without a bit of help, it would be pretty difficult to get them to align. Because a gap here would be pretty noticable, I chose to remove the aft ends of the exhaust manifolds, together with the turbines, so that these seams could be joined and filled properly. So, with a jewler's saw and the thinnest blade I could find, I pre-cut the bypass and turbine sections of the manifolds. This way, I could assemble the waste gate wishbone to the manifolds, and then remove the manifold ends to deal with the seams. I also drilled out and inserted short lengths of brass rod into the joints, so the wishbone and manifold ends would align.

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/6384/11212907sq.jpg


As the waistgate servo itself is one of the most prominent features of the engine bay, I decided to make a replacement for the kit part. The kit part itself is a decent representation, but with the mold line running through the center of it being highly visible and difficult to remove, I thought I could improve it a bit. The lathe easily turned out a new one.

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/3072/11212881au.jpg

While I was at it, I also did a new oil filter- another prominent feature of the F40 engine.


With the pins installed, the waste gate components were ready for assembly.

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/7828/11212917tw.jpg

They were glued together assembled on the engine to ensure alignment, and then...


...cut apart from the manifolds.

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/4564/11212923qh.jpg

Now the joints could be cleaned up, more brass pins added, and the whole thing painted.

Since doing the exhaust train on the F50, I've gotten alot of requests for a demonstration of my painting techniques. I have another tutorial on exactly that I'm in the process of putting together, but meanwhile I'll do my best to demonstrate it here, too.


http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/2859/11212932kf.jpg

Yes, simply wave the bottles of paint over the parts like so....

Well, not really. I've rounded up the usual suspects here, Tamiya acrylic clear blue, red, orange, smoke, and metallic grey. The parts have been primed with MM acryl grey primer, to ensure the joints have been dealt with. Ready to paint!


First, everything gets a base coat of metallic grey. All the other colors will be applied over this.

http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/6664/11212948eq.jpg


Next, on to the coloration. I'm using color both to denote 'weathering' of the exhaust train, and to distinguish its different components (and on the F40, like any twin turbo system, there are many).

Most of the exhaust manifolds are covered with a stainless steel shell. The individual exhaust pipes are contained inside it. As it doesn't have hot gasses blown directly onto it, it only recieves heat by radiation from the pipes it covers- so it doesn't get as hot as other exhaust components. Therefore, I painted it to denote only a moderate amount of heat discoloration. I did this by mixing to 3 parts clear orange to one part clear smoke, and applied this to the shells on each manifold.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/9596/11212958nu.jpg

The turbines themselves get plenty of direct heat from the exhaust gasses, but are made form forged alloy, and will therefore show different heat discoloration form the rest of the stainless steel parts. I painted them orange and smoke also, but this time 2 smoke to 1 orange to make them darker, but to suggest a little color, too.


Next, onto the hotter components. A short length of the individual pipes protrude beyond the end of the shells on the manifolds. These, along with the waste gate wishbone, and the pipe joiners/bypass points (which the turbines are attatched to) recieve more direct heat, and therefore, heat staining.

First, everything else has to be masked.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/5932/11212978es.jpg

One of my favorite ways to mask metallics is with wet tissue paper. It won't pull up paint with it when removed, like masking tape may. I used the tape to mask edges, and aluminum foil to hold it in place, (and cover the rest of the parts).


The unmasked areas are resprayed with metallic grey. Then, the darker heat stain colors are applied. For most of these areas, I'm aiming for a deeper, ruddy brown color than on the manifold shells- about 3 red parts, 1 orange, and 1 blue, and maybe 1 or 2 smoke (these are really just estimations- I mixed these colors by drops form an eyedropper, and then test sprayed them until I thought they looked right). Hotter still areas are painted with a darker blue/purple color, 2 parts blue and 1 part red. The red and blue together make a pretty dark purple, so no smoke is required. Make sure enough red is added, though- Tamiya clear blue by itself is much too bright to be used by itself. No matter how hot you get it, steel does not naturally turn this color. This blue/purple is applied to the bends in the wishbone.

http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/5075/11213009dq.jpg

I did this with my 'trusty old' Badger 150, with a fine needle/nozzle assembly. If you were really motivated, I suppose you might be able to do this with a single action airbrush, but I wouldn't really care to try.


Here's how it looks assembled up.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/8456/11212992yt.jpg

It all looks pretty bright and colorful. Fortunately, a good wash will help bring it all together. (If you haven't seen my recent wash tutorial, look here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=441493).)


http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/8457/11313010kv.jpg

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/3151/11313027zc.jpg

Everything got a wash of raw umber and black. Kinda helps to blend it all, and brings out the detail, such as the seams on the turbines. And here too is the recapitated waste gate servo. The gate itself was painted medium grey, and of course washed. Technically, black or metallic grey would be more correct for the servo on the F40- but it is bright aluminum on the 288, and it does look kind of good- maybe just a dark wash and leave it as is? :sly:

We'll see. Watch this space. Turbo Surgery, Part 3 will add the compressors, intercoolers, and resonator/muffler. But sooner or later, I'm going to have to finish polishing the bodywork....

Thanks for looking!

You are doing an excellent job!

Those Tamiya acrylics look pretty good but next to metalizers there is no contest. Since you are airbrushing, why aren't you using metalizers?

Looks awesome so far!

Bloody hell!!!
When I think about how small all this is actually is, I just start freaking out. Amazing!

Superb job, I need to get me a lathe!
Btw, I'm not sure you really need to polish out the paint on the body - look closely at the real F40 - you can see C/F through the paint, and if you touch it - you can feel the C/F! The paint is not smooth and shiny on F40! I think I'll actually will leave some texture on the paint when I will be building mine.

Just looked at this again and I feel the need to add another "bloody" to my original "bloody hell". Here goes:

Bloody, bloody hell!!!

great work! can't wait to see more!

Thanks, guys!

Veyron- Metalizers always look very clean to me, and they don't have nearly the color range to fully heat stain an exhaust system. I'm saving them for parts that I want to look more pristine, like the compresors and intercoolers. The contrast of the clean, cool looking compressors next to the hot, stained turbines should look really good.

360spider- I'd thought of trying to suggest CF in the paint, but I couldn't think of a good way. The orange peel I got didn't look the part, though.

Yeah, the lathe is great. I hardly use it for curbside, but for heavily detailed full engine builds, it's awesome! Wait till you see what I'm planning for the brakes....

Great job, it really inspires,

Have you tryied to add a couple of drops of flat base to your mixes? it gives a nice flat burnt finish to the stains.

Awesome job!, the way you share is a huge contribution to the modeling world, THANKS!!

Great job, it really inspires,

Have you tryied to add a couple of drops of flat base to your mixes? it gives a nice flat burnt finish to the stains.

Awesome job!, the way you share is a huge contribution to the modeling world, THANKS!!
Totally agree! MPWR, thanks for sharing your tips!

PS, after changing the setting of my PC, it can load your pics again. Your pics are inspiring! :)

Your attention to detail on this build is awesome.... keep it up!!!!!

i havent been on af for a long time, because of no computer access, and this is the first thread ive looked at thus far, and man what a thread to look at, this is amazing work, i can see everyone is still producing the same top notch work

:eek: Astonishing !!!

any update? :D

OK, so I have been a bit delinquent in updating. I've been hoping to make some significant progress, as to be able to show something more completed- instead, I just have more details (and details, and details). Hope you all enjoy anyway.

At one point during the F50 build, I think I commented that the intake manifold airbox was as much work as I'd put into a single kit part. Not anymore. I've been working on the F40 underside....


http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/6757/11313208un.jpg

Of course, it gets painted body color (in places), and rubbed out and polished. Then, I painted the areas that will be CF in X-18 (it's as good under CF as anything else).

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4429/11112007zf.jpg

I am of course using the usual suspects- SMS CF decals. The F40 calls for both plain CF and kevlar. Yes, I also broke down and got S27's F40 set, and quickly realized most of it isn't worth the metal it's etched on. But more on that later.


http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/3804/11313215bc.jpg

The CF gets applied,

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/8809/11313222yn.jpg

then trimmed down, and overcoated with Tamiya acrylic smoke. Like the karbon kevlar pattern on the F50, I find SMS's pattern to be too bright by itself. The smoke was then rubbed down and polished out (I'm sure I waited all of about 12 minutes for it to dry).


The triangular bays behind the CF panel are the undersides of the F40's welded aluminum fuel tanks. I tried applying BMF here, but it just wasn't going to work- the corners are a bit too deep, so it would tear before it could be pressed down.

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/8401/11313240kw.jpg

So, after thinking about it a bit, I decided that the way to solve it was to cut inserts out of thin styrene to fit these bays, and to apply the BMF to them- then stick them in place. (See the nice subtle CF pattern? To my eyes, that's how it's supposed to look!)

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/6052/11313745kw.jpg

Much better.


Now, the top side. I'm doing the heat shielding the same way as on the F50- household aluminum foil. The unshielded parts of the body work get kevlar decals.

http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/5555/11313231hq.jpg

Slow, tedious work.

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/1218/11313737dr.jpg

I'm still working at it.


Meanwhile, when waiting for slivers of kevlar decal to dry, I've been having a bit more fun detailing the engine. I decided that a machined oil filter could look really good. Here's my attempt.

http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/4696/11111558ny.jpg

http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/6962/11111560zv.jpg

There are probably easier ways to get rid of the mold lines on the kit part....


http://img484.imageshack.us/img484/3043/11313270cz.jpg

So here's the kit part, with the oil filter replaced. The filter was painted a mix of Tamiya royal blue and gun metal. I then stuck on a small square of BMF on the side, for a label. I think it looks the part pretty well. I inserted some very short lenghts of brass rod into the oil line fittings below the filter, for the turbo oil lines. Here also is the cylinder head ventilation line- a length of aluminum rod bent to shape, with strips of paper wrapped around the ends and painted black for the hose connectors. The hose clamps are of course strips of BMF.


And here are the turbo oil lines.

http://img500.imageshack.us/img500/5225/11313297sd.jpg

Detail master braided line, with fittings made form hex styrene rod and brass rod. If you look in the How-to's, there's a deeper description of how to do this (not mine). The hex fittings were drilled out with a pin vise to the diameter of the brass rod, so they will simply slip over the rods protruding from the oil filter base.


http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/4056/11313320qj.jpg

And here are the oil filter, the ventilation line, and the turbo oil lines installed.


http://img487.imageshack.us/img487/1354/11313337bc.jpg

Here, I've added the turbo coolant lines as well. Same method as the oil lines, just done in a larger diameter. The other ends run up to the water pump, under the intake manifold. Yes, the underside of the turbos should technically have return lines for both the oil and coolant as well, but as they're rather hidden by the turbos and intercoolers, they're practically invisable on the real thing. At this point, I don't think they'd add much, and real estate is getting pretty tight back there. Maybe when I do the 1/16 F40....

Ready for the compressors and intercoolers now.

As always thanks for looking, and for comments!

Wow, Looking sick man.

Wow,

great work, nice details, looks very very good !!!!!!!!!!!

Fantastic work, keep the updates coming!

sweetnes!

get back to work, I need more!!!

**slaps veins in arm :bloated:

Are you sure we're not looking at a factory assembly line? lol

Awesome work man!

Now get back to work and keep posting them up. :)

Beautiful work!!!!

Excellent! You must have bucket loads of patience for this!

Fantastic, you applied the CF decal and then trimed it down afterwards.. I thought you couldn't cut CF once it was applied.. How did you trim it down, amazing..!!

Looks great...

Nice too see you working on it again!
Looks great and did you machined the wastegate?

my got you do amazing work! im following this.

i love the way you did the engine.

im gonna read the F50 one now.

AWESOME!!

This is one of my Favorite Ferraris
Trully inspiring!!!
Great attention to detail

I have one question:
Do you have any reference about the fuel tanks?, as far as I remember they are black painted.
Any reference about those triangular bays in the underside?

Cheers!! and keep that great work!

Looking forward to it.

You and Alex are the two best Ferrari builders I have ever seen. Watching you work is a pleasure! Please keep us posted with every tiny detail that you make.

One word: WOW!

Nice work on the oil filter. Did you use a mill to machine the little finger notches?

Thanks everyone!

GTmike400- Yeah, with a 1/16" diameter end mill. Cute little thing. I managed this and the waste gate without a rotary table!

D_LaMz- Waste gate is machined aluminum, too. Haven't yet decided if I'll paint it.

agamo- My references on the fuel cells are kind of sparse- I don't really have any pics of them, and they're not really visible in the car. There is a diagram of them in the owner's manual. The impression I've gotten is that they're made of pressed aluminum sheet welded together, filled with foam. But I could be wrong....

mickbench- As soon as the decal dried, I trimmed the corners with a sharp scalpel blade. I've frequently found it easier to cut CF decals a bit big, put them in place, and then carefully (and I do mean carefully!) trim them to shape with a really sharp blade.

blueboost- What am I, your dealer now? No worries, I'll keep it coming.

bkvj- Enjoy the F50! I did. :rolleyes:

I'm about to start building that kit!
Thanks a truckload for the inspiration and ideas and keep it coming! :eek: :biggrin:

Simply superb, love every second of it. The lathed parts looking fantastic. The detail is second to none, lovely work indeed.

I thought this one wasn't going to be RED...

I don't mean that in a bad way, as a replica it has to be red.
:p

This thing is outstanding! I can't wait for the finish piece.

Simply superb job!

ok 1.great job
2.when will you do an enzo?

superb work on this one as well MPWR! you truly inspire us all with your work! keep 'em updates comin!

Wow! What a model! I have just discovered this threat and it is incredible, I have fallen in love. I am going to start my F40 and yours is going to be an excellent guide.
A question: what about more updates? I feel I need seeing the last steps :)
Cheers!

Wow this is blowing my mind i looked threw all 8 pages while eating breakfast and i just dont know how you do it, Great skills ill follow this to the end!

This thing ever been finished?

Great progress, i wanna see it done!!

Wow, it has been a long time since I've updated this one, hasn't it?!!

This thing ever been finished?
No, it hasn't been finished yet. In fact, not alot of progress has been made on it since the last update- really just some kevlar decals in the oil cooler pods. I promise, as soon as I have more to show, you will see it here!

Great progress, i wanna see it done!!
Yeah, you and me both! :rolleyes: The Mythos (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=447417) has gotten some attention lately, and the 360 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=537077) will get updated again soon. But it has been long enough on the F40. Time to get working again!...

(Wait till you see what I have planned for the brakes...!)

My F40 and F40 Competizione just arrived, so you'd better get crackin'! I need you to finish my tutorial! :lol:

agamo- My references on the fuel cells are kind of sparse- I don't really have any pics of them, and they're not really visible in the car. There is a diagram of them in the owner's manual. The impression I've gotten is that they're made of pressed aluminum sheet welded together, filled with foam. But I could be wrong....


Hi MPWR,

let me say first my respects for your impressive work and dedication to the details. As you seem looking for information regarding fuel cells; I found it in the book 'Inside Ferrari' from Michael Dregni (it was published by Motorbooks International in 1990 and shows creation of the Feraris in the factory and at the coachbuilders). The book sports a complete chapter of 15 pages describing F40's production in detail.

The fuel cells are indeed welded of aluminium sheet, the pictures below show the process of welding and checking for leaks afterwards.

http://guidomoritz.gu.funpic.de/coppermine/albums/1989_F40/Factory/normal_F40%20001.jpghttp://guidomoritz.gu.funpic.de/coppermine/albums/1989_F40/Factory/normal_F40%20002.jpg

It was a bit difficult to photograph pictures of a picture - if you need better resolution you can try at my photo collection directly http://guidomoritz.gu.funpic.de/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=38

Please send me a PM if you need better quality or additional information.

Regarding the 60th anniversary, I'm still deciding on my entry. The current candidates are (all in 1/12 scale) F2002, P4, 312 T4, or 512 BB LM). I would enter all of them if I were not expecting a very busy year at work - so I will enter only one first.

Thanks for sharing your impressive skills, mate.

Andy, talking about references: Did you know this? http://www.ferraris-online.com/pages/carintro.php?reqcardir=FE-F40-86878

It's only one of several F40s he sold - and lots of other Ferraris with pictures of every angle ...

Andy, talking about references: Did you know this? http://www.ferraris-online.com/pages/carintro.php?reqcardir=FE-F40-86878

It's only one of several F40s he sold - and lots of other Ferraris with pictures of every angle ...

i wonder if that guy has any idea how helpful he is to us. i'd bet more modelers than car buyers surf his site. :lol:

any updates? this is one amazing model. loved ur f50 too. dunno y (maybe cause of all the ferraris around) but iv been on a ferrari craze and i was planning on building an f40, then f50, then enzo so im ordering the f40 tomorrow. just a few questions for u. im trying to make this a very detailed one but im having trouble finding good pics of the engine, interior, and trunk (plan to cut open the front and hinge the trunk). where are you getting your reference from? also, i was debating between the acu-stion or studio 27 set. i saw that your f50 one didnt fit so great and was wondering if you`ve test fitted the rear grill on this yet? well, keep us updated. o ya, and are u gonna build a crazy enzo after this one? that would be pretty sweet. peace out