Anyone with an LS swap, need ECU code

My friend is getting a code 8 then 9. The car will not start. Does anyone know the ecu code that we are getting? It's an 90 civic with ls. I am guessing that it has to have the OBD1, right?

8) TDC (Top Dead Centre) Sensor -Defective circuit or unplugged/ Defective sensor
9) CYP (Cylinder) - Defective circuit or unplugged/ Defective sensor

this is what i found, but where the hell are these plugs at?

I am guessing that it has to have the OBD1, right?


The 90-91 B18A were obd0, 92-93 were obd1

just because its an ls doesnt mean its obd1, you need to find out if its obd1 or 0. second if those codes are correct then its the dist plug, the dist plug holds all those wires for those sensors

heres the deal, if you had to do a multipoint conversion to this car, you need to make sure you hooked up the three distributor sensors correctly to the ECU. the pins go to the following spots on the ECU plugs. there's three plugs, the big one is A, the larger black one is B, the smaller black one is C. the pin numbers are odd numbers on top row, even numbers on bottom row, and when looking at it from the wire side, low numbers on left, high numbers on right. example: b10 is on the larger black plug (middle plug) bottom row, near the middle.

CRK sensor
orange wire b10
white wire b12

TDC sensor
orange/blue stripe wire c3
white/blue stripe wire c4

CYP sensor
blue/green stripe wire c1
blue/yellow stripe wire c2


on a dual point engine, the CRK sensor is originally at c1 and c2. so it needs to be moved to b10 and b12

on a dual point engine, there isnt a CYP sensor. so you need to run new wires from the distributor to the ECU and put them in the now empty c1 and c2

if you have them all wired this way, and its still throwing codes, check all the connections and make sure they are tight. then disconnect the distributor plugs, and hook an ohmmeter to each pair of wires (orange and white, orange/blue and white/blue, and finally blue/green and blue/yellow) remember that theres another white wire, its for the tach, and its on one of the side pin holes, not the six pack shaped grouping in the center of the plug. you should get between 350 and 850 ohms on your meter for each pair. if you dont, get a new distributor. if you do, its time to trouble shoot the harness.

for the harness, plug the distributor back in, and unplug the ECU. then do the same thing with the ohmmeter, but on the ECU wires. check your orange and white wires together, then the orange/blue and white/blue, and finally, the blue/green and blue/yellow. they should read pretty close to what you got on the distributor. if its higher than that, or you get no continuity at all, then a wire is bad somewhere.

one thing i noticed on a few conversions is that people wallow out the ECU plug holes when they de-pin them. ive seen otherwise perfect MPFI conversions screwed up over this seemingly small problem. all you gotta do is take the pins back out, and slightly crimp the tip of it to make it fit tighter, and then look at the little tab on the side of it, and bend it out slightly to make it snap in better. also, MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE LITTLE WHITE LOCKS BACK INTO THE PLUGS. they keep the pins in tighter.

try all of this, and if the two codes still come back, let me know

on a multi point engine, the CRK sensor is originally at c1 and c2. so it needs to be moved to b10 and b12

on a dual point engine, there isnt a CYP sensor. so you need to run new wires from the distributor to the ECU and put them in the now empty c1 and c2
i know thats what you meant to say, dont beat yourself up over it :tongue:

umm no, i was right the first time

wow, i should have read more carefully... my bad. for some reason i thought you said in the first one that the cyp sensor is originally at c1 and c2. not the crk sensor.

its ok...i wonder if he figured out his problem

It was a bad dizzy. So if there is no more injector box the it could not be OBD0 right? The car runs kinda ruff, so I am gonna go through the hole harness and see whats up.