Engine buzz in subwoofer

I have a 2000 LS with the Alpine radio and CD changer in glove box. I occassionally get a buzz in the rear mounted subwoofer that changes pitch with engine speed. Sounds like the old buzzing you used to get from an engine with points and condenser when the condenser was bad. I have checked for a loose ground in the trunk, but everything seems to be tight.

Anyone else had this problem? If so, have you found the solution?

Other than this annoyance, and a rear door window mechanism, I have had no problems at all. Have almost 50,000 miles and still on the original battery and tires. (Will need new tires real soon). I think handling and performance are top notch for this size car!

I have a 2000 LS with the Alpine radio and CD changer in glove box. I occassionally get a buzz in the rear mounted subwoofer that changes pitch with engine speed. Sounds like the old buzzing you used to get from an engine with points and condenser when the condenser was bad. I have checked for a loose ground in the trunk, but everything seems to be tight.

Anyone else had this problem? If so, have you found the solution?

Other than this annoyance, and a rear door window mechanism, I have had no problems at all. Have almost 50,000 miles and still on the original battery and tires. (Will need new tires real soon). I think handling and performance are top notch for this size car!


I seem to be having the same problem. Did you ever solve it?

Does anyone have any suggestions??? My car gets this buzz only when the temperature is probably above 75 or after the radio has been on for a long amount of time. It's somehow heat related. Once it starts buzzing, a nice knock on the amp silences the buzz for the moment. However the slightest bump on the road stirs it up again. I have already tried regrounding the amp twice. Please help.

You probably have a bad solder joint in the amplfiier. I've had to reflow solder joints in Ford head units, haven't have to do any amps yet. However, I've seen numerous bad solder joints in aftermarket amps over many different brands. Often times the bad solder joint occurs where the leads from a connector solder to the circuit board. There is not enough strain relief on the connector and after many miles bouncing around, the solder joints crack at the board.

With a heat and vibration issue like you mention, I'd bet a solder joint is your problem, and as you already suspect, it's probably on a ground lead.

-Rod

You probably have a bad solder joint in the amplfiier. I've had to reflow solder joints in Ford head units, haven't have to do any amps yet. However, I've seen numerous bad solder joints in aftermarket amps over many different brands. Often times the bad solder joint occurs where the leads from a connector solder to the circuit board. There is not enough strain relief on the connector and after many miles bouncing around, the solder joints crack at the board.

With a heat and vibration issue like you mention, I'd bet a solder joint is your problem, and as you already suspect, it's probably on a ground lead.

-Rod
Rod - THANKS MAN!!!

This problem has been bothering me for 2 years now. I haven't checked yet, but I am 90% certain that's the problem. I've tried everything else. I just spent two days doing a complete tune up on the car yesterday so I'm not going to get at that amp for a few days or next week. If that's the problem I'll be sure to let you know. I repair computers sometimes and anyone that has ever had a compaq laptop would let you know how common an issue that is. I never would have considered it. Also, it's getting fall now and I only have the problem in the summers when the temp. goes up.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate your insight.