suspension trouble

I notice that when I try to peel off ,my car starts to shake alot just for like 5 seconds ,I was wondering if it had anything to do with all that grease in back of the break rottors maybe the boots.I now it dosent need an alighnment couse my tires are ok . Damm this is very imberasing especially when im ganna race . well hope anyone can help

Well, I can only really think of two things that would cause that off the top of my head. It could be the clutch or the axles. If you are trying to accelerate really fast for a dead stop and it does it only while you've got your foot on the clutch trying to feather the clutch while getting going, then it's probably something with the clutch. If you don't even have your foot on the clutch and it's doing it, it's possible that you could have bad axles, but usually they will start popping while you turn sharp before they will shake the car.

motor mounts??

i dont exactly understand the problem you are having, but if you have grease on the backs of your rotors, you shouldnt be driving the car. the grease is probably from busted CV shaft boots, and although you can ride on them for a little while, eventually they will break. but my main concern is that you might lose braking ability if the pads get grease on them.

Yep,That's "Wheel Hop"
There Is ALOT Of Deflection In The Stock Mounts/Bushings!
The Torque Mount(Front of Trans) And The Support Rod Bushings
(Front Subframe To Control Arms)Get Some Poly Mounts/Bushings
That Fixed The "Wheel Hop" In MY 91 CRXSI!

Yep,That's "Wheel Hop"


Thats what i was going to say, but you really should have that grease problem checked out.

Where can I get this Poly Mounts/Bushings? auto zone? or a mechanic ?

The grease on the back of your rotors is coming from your CV joint, since the boot is ripped it gets flinged all over the place. And yeah your main problem sounds like wheel hop from bad mounts and bushings.

I've heard of people filling there stock mounts with silicone or urathane or something to stiffen them up, but I never liked that idea.

Cracked CV boots are far more important than soft motor mounts. Keep doing that to your car with bad CV boots/joints and your likely to break an axle and you wont be going any where, then you'll really look like an idiot.

Motor mount inserts are cheap and the better way to do it IMO because you can remove them unlike silicone filled mounts. The mount inserts will increase 4-banger vibrations, this is why i go the insert route, if you don't like you can always remove them.

www.summitracing.com they are like $10.00

as far as the motor mounts ,wich one do I replace since there seems to be 3. is there a way to check them .and as far as the cv boot should i change the inner and outer boot?

there are 4 motor mounts. Trans, front of trans, driver side motor, and rear trans.

If you buy the inserts the directions will indicate which ones get the inserts or silicone way - http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

You can visually inspect them or grab the engine and move it around.

Only replace the boots needed, if the axles are old or high mileage your better off replacing the whole axle. That way you get all new joints and boots for the same price as an inner/outer boot kit.

ok so it was that cv boot that had a 1in. crack and i also changed the boots from the steering gear. now I need to work on the motor mounts .cant seem to find any 3m windo-weld urathane silicone .but i found some white polyurathane silicone, can I use that?

Here's what you need - http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=ENS-16-1104R&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&searchinresults=false&N=0&target=egnsearch.asp&x=18&y=8