94 Le Sabre Tranny Problem

Hello all, I am new here. I will try to describe the problem the best I can. It started about 2 weeks ago. 82000 miles on original engine and trans, both kept meticulously since day 1.

Driving in OD at about 50mph, step on the gas a bit and the RPMs dont go anywhere and a slight shutter until you either let off the gas or put it to the floor. I thought that the trans was slipping but I took my mechanic for a ride this AM and he didnt think it was a trans problem. He feels that it could possibly be a worn motor mount. OK, that might account for the shutter, but why the RPMs dont move when you step on the gas (1'_2") doesnt make sense. There are no codes showing. It seems to be RPM related though as it seems to happen when the RPMs are under 2000 closer to 1500. It doesnt happen all the time, seems to be more prevelant when it is warm out side and I have been sitting in traffic. I am taking it back to him on Monday for more evaluation. Please help, I would like to steer him in a direction, this is driving me nuts.

Thanks

Jack

Anyone??

I dont know if that will help much, but if it hasnt been done in a long time. I would change the trans filiter and fluid. I would also use a synthetic trans fluid when you change it.
Other ideas would be bad solenoid.
This is just a wild guess. Maybe someone knows little more.

I dont know if that will help much, but if it hasnt been done in a long time. I would change the trans filiter and fluid. I would also use a synthetic trans fluid when you change it.
Other ideas would be bad solenoid.
This is just a wild guess. Maybe someone knows little more.



Can anyone tell me more about the solenoid?

THank You

Jack

The way I understand it, there is a solenoid that locks in the torque converter when the car reaches about 45-50 mph. It locks in and reduces the automatic transmission slop, resulting in better gas mileage, etc. when cruising. Once locked in, it will cruise at somewhat lower RPMs because it improves the efficiency. Once the solenoid locks in the torque converter, it only releases when you step on the brake, or (I believe) the vehicle speed decreases significantly, or you are accelerating up to speed. Power (12 volts) is applied to the solenoid to lock it out (release) the torque converter. The vehicle speed sensor plays a role in this because it sends the signal that tells the computer to lock in the torque converter when the correct speed is reached. If the solenoid is going bad, maybe it is sticking. When you step on the gas, it may not be releasing, resulting in a shudder. I have read that when the torque converter won't lock out or disengage properly, it will kill the engine when stopped because it is like trying to idle (when stopped) with a manual transmission in gear without the clutch depressed. I am not sure how to get to the solenoid. I think it is inside the transmission. The transmission may have to come out to replace it.

Changed the TPS a and motor mounts (one was cracked)....changed the spark plug wires....bammm
problem is gone. Go figure $30 plug wires took care of the problem and my frustration.

Jack

I was wondering how a worn motor mount is diagnosed. With yours, did you visually see a problem? I have a symptoms similar to your original diagnosis, but I would like to understand how to see if they are a problem before simply replacing etc. Thanks.

Step on the brake with the car in drive and rev it a bit. The mechanic noticed quite a bit of movement front to rear. Once he got it on the lift he was able to get a better look at the mounts. Be prepared that they are pretty expensive.

Jack

RockAuto.com lists the Anchor brand motor mounts for the '91 model anyhow at about $5 or $6 for the solid ones, $20 - $25 for the big hydraulic (oil-filled) ones. Same mfr and part numbers as Autozone sells. Anyone have any experience with Anchor mounts on these vehicles? I've used them in the past without any problems. I hear OEM ones are in the $90 range for the hydraulic ones.

RockAuto.com lists the Anchor brand motor mounts for the '91 model anyhow at about $5 or $6 for the solid ones, $20 - $25 for the big hydraulic (oil-filled) ones. Same mfr and part numbers as Autozone sells. Anyone have any experience with Anchor mounts on these vehicles? I've used them in the past without any problems. I hear OEM ones are in the $90 range for the hydraulic ones.

Anchor Mounts are A-Ok. I replace both of my mounts with Anchor last year, and YES they are EXPENSIVE!. Its easy to see if you need a mount. You just need access to the bottom of the vehicle. A Mount is mostly just RUBBER. Some are Filled with hydraulic fluids for less vibration transfer. If you have a bad mount, you will notice engine movement between shifting. Most noticeablle would be the vibrations that is transferred to the chasiss of the car. "the whole damn car shakes heavy mostly during idleing"

Ignore this problem and: worst case would be your engine falling out of the car or transmission falling or sagging. LOL

Changed the fuel filter and the ignition wires and that did it.