Convertible Wont Go Down 94 GTC

Ok my brother has a 1994 GTC and the moterized top will not go down.

I checked the Fuse with my Ohm Meter and it is good. I press the Up/Down Switch and I hear it clicking in the rear trying to get the motor to go. But there is no movement. Does it Need a top motor? If so how hard and long would it take to replace it and how much would it cost for the motor. New/Used

Thanks for any help

I tried looking up prices on the Net but im not sure the part number and what it's technical name is.

yup, sounds like yer motor is pretty well fried. It would be an easy job to replace if it weren't hydraulic - but it is. Those are a mess to replace. About an $800 mess. Basically my suggestion to you is to remove the whole system and go full manual top.

yup, sounds like yer motor is pretty well fried. It would be an easy job to replace if it weren't hydraulic - but it is. Those are a mess to replace. About an $800 mess. Basically my suggestion to you is to remove the whole system and go full manual top.


I have a 93 Labaron of which my daughter called tonight from college saying the top got stuck in the middle of her taking it down. Lets forget the fact I told her not to touch the motor switch while at college due me not being around. She took it into a Chrylser dealer of whom I am awaiting a call. Do these tops have a release from the motor/hydraulic mechnism to make this manual?

I agree with your assessment. If it costs that much to fix this top, all motorized crap is coming out. I know the kids like the car, but, I can't stand fixing electronics over and over.

Therefore, can a motor just be replaced or could just the hydraulics be replaced. I have never looked at the operating mechanism in this.

It isn't a release so much as it is disconnecting the bolts that hold the top to the hydraulic rams. My recommendation is this: Slowly muscle the top down (it is slow but the top will go down gradually.) Remove the panels on either side of the rear passenger seat by taking out the screws tucked just behind the seat cushions, at the top of the door jambs, and inside the chrome clips on top of the panels. On either side you should see a hydraulic ram connected to the black frame of the top by a single bolt. Remove this bolt and put the panels back in and you now have a manual top for the man (or daughter as the case may be) on a budget. This operation is simple enough that her dealership should perform it but I bet they'd still charge you an arm and a leg for it.

I spiced things up by putting gas charged rams (like the ones that lift SUV hatches) in place of the rams. It took 2 rams (about $12 each, making sure they could stretch about the same distance as the hydraulic rams) an a bunch of large washers used as spacers. You connect one end of the ram to the top frame (while up, using washers to fill in the gap) and then drill a hole in the metal panel, near the bottom, lining things up so things will move freely between top up and top down (again, at the bottom, you use more washers as spacers between the metal panel and the ram so that the ram doesnt lean to the side. This makes raising the top much easier by one person from either side and prevents the heavy manual top from falling back too fast and crushing the rear window.

Good luck!

(oh and in response to your other question: Messing with the hydraulics, other than straight removing them, is a messy ordeal. you cannot remove the motor without spilling the fluid everywhere, and when putting things back together, you have to get fluid back in there somehow, and there isnt a cap you can remove to just "top it off" Both of the rams are controlled by a small motor located in the trunk, just behind the seat cushion next to the spare tire. Its a bugger to reach but you dont need any tools to just pull it out. Just give it a tug and it'll come without damaging the little rubber plugs that hold it in place. You can then snake the rams out from their places through the trunk all without spilling a drop (I do however recommend assigning this job to a small child [making sure not to close the trunk lid on him] as we all know that Lebaron trunks are NOT very roomy.

I had the same problem with my 1992 LeBaron. First check your ground wire to be certain you have a good ground. If that doesn't solve your problem (it didn't solve mine) I bought a rebuilt top motor from a contact I met on E bay. His e mail is jimz446@aol.com. He charged me $75.00 for the rebuilt motor and $ 10.00 shipping. I sent my out ona a Friday and had the rebuilt back the following Wedensday. I just finished installing the motor and the top works fine. It takes less than an hour to get the old motor out and about the same amount of time to put the new one in. Hope this helps. Good luck

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I had the same problem with my 1992 LeBaron. First check your ground wire to be certain you have a good ground. If that doesn't solve your problem (it didn't solve mine) I bought a rebuilt top motor from a contact I met on E bay. His e mail is jimz446@aol.com. He charged me $75.00 for the rebuilt motor and $ 10.00 shipping. I sent my out ona a Friday and had the rebuilt back the following Wedensday. I just finished installing the motor and the top works fine. It takes less than an hour to get the old motor out and about the same amount of time to put the new one in. Hope this helps. Good luck

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I do appreciate everyones reply on the top. I was called by a dealer my daughter took the car to at college. Says the top came off the track is all. Says a little matter of a basketball, baseball bat and other misc in the space the top goes into. Apparently, my kids think that area is a trunk?? $80.00 was the charge to get it back on track.

(oh and in response to your other question: Messing with the hydraulics, other than straight removing them, is a messy ordeal. you cannot remove the motor without spilling the fluid everywhere, and when putting things back together, you have to get fluid back in there somehow, and there isnt a cap you can remove to just "top it off" Both of the rams are controlled by a small motor located in the trunk, just behind the seat cushion next to the spare tire. . Just give it a tug and it'll come without damaging the little rubber plugs that hold it in place. You can then snake the rams out from their places through the trunk all without spilling a drop .
I have done this project myself without mess. I clamped the two hoses at the motor closed with vise girps. wrapped an old towel around the motor and disconnected the lines. I took the motor to a hydrayulic shop here in Joplin MO and it cost me $70 to fix. When I put the motor back in I installed T- stops (valves) and plumbed in a fill pipe that is removed when not in use. filled fluid til the bubbles went away shut the T and released the lines. Works like a dream::iceslolan
Oh and there IS a relief valve to raise and lower the top manually... it is on the right (passenger) rear of the roofwell between it and the trunk, accessible from the trunkside...it's covered by a velcro flap but it's there. open it fully (counterclockwise) to manually open the top.

I have done this project myself without mess. I clamped the two hoses at the motor closed with vise girps. wrapped an old towel around the motor and disconnected the lines. I took the motor to a hydrayulic shop here in Joplin MO and it cost me $70 to fix. When I put the motor back in I installed T- stops (valves) and plumbed in a fill pipe that is removed when not in use. filled fluid til the bubbles went away shut the T and released the lines. Works like a dream::iceslolan
Oh and there IS a relief valve to raise and lower the top manually... it is on the right (passenger) rear of the roofwell between it and the trunk, accessible from the trunkside...it's covered by a velcro flap but it's there. open it fully (counterclockwise) to manually open the top.


Great Info. I printed and will store in the glove compartment.

Maybe you can help here: I just replaced water pump and made sure timing marks on cams and crank were hitting the marks. No leaks and car runs good, but, not as good acceleration as I like. Did I do something wrong or do I need to time this? If timing, what is procedure. Please don't tell me I have to go into the timing belts again to make sure they didn't move? I took the car for about a 10 mile ride to make sure no leaks. My daughter noticed the sluggish pick up. I hope I can time with the distributor? If so, what is procedure? Thank You.

I think it was Truman Capote who said,"when in doubt go back to the basics. This... is a Football." Oftentimes this applies to our cars too, lol. Yes, Time it, and if you're uncomfortable doing it yourself (making sure all the I's are crossed and the T's dotted, or maybe the other way around:)) it is only about 20 bucks for a mechanic to do it, or at least should be. Basically when the engine ran before it was comfortable running with things (belts) "where they were". ANY modifications to these interactions and the timing needs to be reset. ALSO, try to avoid BOTH the hydrolized and ethanol-blend (the kind CASEY'S sells) fuels. If this car is in CA your out of luck there, but these older cars just don't do as well on them. I suspect your daughter being away at college means she's not using the "ol' family gas station" lol. First instincts tell me it's running retarded, tho. (the TIMING, not the car/driver, lol)

I think it was Truman Capote who said,"when in doubt go back to the basics. This... is a Football." Oftentimes this applies to our cars too, lol. Yes, Time it, and if you're uncomfortable doing it yourself (making sure all the I's are crossed and the T's dotted, or maybe the other way around:)) it is only about 20 bucks for a mechanic to do it, or at least should be. Basically when the engine ran before it was comfortable running with things (belts) "where they were". ANY modifications to these interactions and the timing needs to be reset. ALSO, try to avoid BOTH the hydrolized and ethanol-blend (the kind CASEY'S sells) fuels. If this car is in CA your out of luck there, but these older cars just don't do as well on them. I suspect your daughter being away at college means she's not using the "ol' family gas station" lol. First instincts tell me it's running retarded, tho. (the TIMING, not the car/driver, lol)


Thank you Mr. Fix it. My daughter drove the car 2 hours to school today. No leaks and it ran fine but not with as much pick up as she would like. I will have someone else time it. I felt I already did the hard part. I don't have a timing light and would have to read the Haynes manual a million times before I figure it out.

youre welcome

well, just convert the system to manual and be done with it.