Resistor or Ignition

Are there any telltale signs to pinpoint which part to replace first on this common problem? I want to dump either $40 or $100 into the part rather then spend the whole $140 to replace the right and wrong part to fix it :-) (you are talking to a college student here).

I am confused as to which symptoms are tied to which part.

Currently my 00 GT's fan controls will not produce any airflow out of the vents on 1-4 but will on 5. I do have climate change from hot to cold when I change the dial.

I'm assuming since the car kills the lights etc during igntion, I would see those issues if the ignition switch was going bad.

I don't notice any other problems such as the "lights freaking out" that would be seen with that, so I am assuming it is the resistor.

Thanks for answering this for the billionth time :-).


Jesse

Every GM I have worked on where the heater/ac blower only worked on high was because of the resistor burning out. I even had one where even with the key off the blower wouldn't quit and would drain the battery and it was still only the resistor.

Change the blower motor resistor. If it does not work on any setting but 5 then the resistor is bad. The $40 part should solve the problem.

Fantastc, that's all I needed!

This is my problem too. I have a 99 GT. I replaced the resistor and it workied ok for about a week...then it went out again. The mechanic said that the fan motor wasblowing out the resistor and fried it.
It really sucks. I have to replace it again. This time I want to do it myself, but I dont know how hard it would be.
Any thoughts on that??

This is my problem too. I have a 99 GT. I replaced the resistor and it workied ok for about a week...then it went out again. The mechanic said that the fan motor wasblowing out the resistor and fried it.
It really sucks. I have to replace it again. This time I want to do it myself, but I dont know how hard it would be.
Any thoughts on that??


Unless you're technically inclined and have a great deal of patience, you might want to consider having a mechanic do it. Just to give you an idea of the work involved, the blower motor resistor is located in the blower housing assembly and you'll have to remove it. Its under the dash on the passenger side. To get to the blower, first you'll have to remove the carpeted sound deadening material. There are plastic circular button clips that have to be removed but they can be reused. Overall, it will be difficult and time consuming because you will be restricted by the limited space.

Since you've had the resistor changed once before, you may have to service the blower motor and bearings or replace it in its entirety. Your '99 GT probably does not have a cabin air filter installed, so all the dust, dirt, leaves, debris, etc. should be cleaned out too.

After all the work is done you might want to consider installing a cabin air filter. It will help keep dust out of the cabin and possibly help protect the blower from any future debris and the fine desert dust. I live in a similar desert environment and put one in back in 1998 on my '97 GTP. I've never had any blower problems as a result. Good luck!



http://www.photodump.com/direct/coolrex/gtp558.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU, Granatelli CAI Tuneable MAF,
3.4 SC pulley, Hi-Flow CAT, u-bend delete, 180 TS,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, AC Delco 41-932 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt
ET: 14.3 @ 96 mph

Are there any telltale signs to pinpoint which part to replace first on this common problem? I want to dump either $40 or $100 into the part rather then spend the whole $140 to replace the right and wrong part to fix it :-) (you are talking to a college student here).

I am confused as to which symptoms are tied to which part.

Currently my 00 GT's fan controls will not produce any airflow out of the vents on 1-4 but will on 5. I do have climate change from hot to cold when I change the dial.

I'm assuming since the car kills the lights etc during igntion, I would see those issues if the ignition switch was going bad.

I don't notice any other problems such as the "lights freaking out" that would be seen with that, so I am assuming it is the resistor.

Thanks for answering this for the billionth time :-).


Jesse


Even with him not being here. Maybe Big-L can help. Read this thread;

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=2279687&highlight=replacing+ignition+switch+harness#post22 79687

Even with him not being here. Maybe Big-L can help. Read this thread;

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=2279687&highlight=replacing+ignition+switch+harness#post22 79687

Yeah! That was a good post from Big-L. Now known as "Virtual Big-L".

Here's a pic of the blower motor and some of parts we're talking about.

http://photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gpblower.gif


http://www.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 ECU, Granatelli CAI Tuneable MAF,
3.4 SC pulley, Hi-Flow CAT, u-bend delete, 180 TS,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, AC Delco 41-932 spark plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt
ET: 14.3 @ 96 mph

Ya, I think I will leave this one to the professionals and not attempt it myself.
When they replaced it the 1st time, I know that it took a while to take apart. They wanted to make sure that if they went through all that, I was going to get the service.
I think I will take it somewhere different this time though.

Replaced the unit today, works like a charm. The old resistor was burned, so its the culprit.

Do you know why the newer resistor model that they have now is covered in rubber and possibly ceramic?