Rear Strut Replacement on 98 PA

We have a 98 Park Avenue, and noticed oil leaking out the drivers side rear strut. Also the passenger side is showing signs of leaking. It seems the only place to buy these air powered struts is the dealer, which they want a arm and a leg for them.

I believe I read somewhere on this forum about replacing the air powered rear struts with struts that do not use air pressure. Is that possible? The reason I am asking, is the air struts are super expensive, and non air struts fit my financial status a lot better.

Is there a web site that sells regular struts to replace my air struts.
Any help is appreciated.
Joe

I replaced mine with the Monroe Sensa-Track
air shock, Part # 71798. This is the best shock you can buy and ranges in price from $80 to 120 ea. depending on the retailer. Sears, Pep Boys, NTB, and Advanced auto parts, all carry Monroe. Call as many Monroe dealers as you can, for price before you buy. I installed my own, however it usually cost $50 labor or more ea to have installed. You also have to realign the rear wheels after installing
They also have a Lifetime Limited Warranty

HotZ28 do you have a procedure for replacing the rear struts?

1) Jack up rear of car & place on jack stands near rear doors, you will see some reinforced stamped metal in that area.
2) Remove rear wheels.
3) Open trunk.
4) Put jack under lower control arm & jack up control arm to the ride position. (Do one side at a time) Remove two nuts from upper shock mount inside trunk above wheel well. Pull back trunk liner to expose.
5) Remove clip on strut air hose & remove hose.
6) Lower jack under lower control arm enough to remove pressure from strut. The top strut mount should drop down some.
7) Remove two lower strut mounting bolts.
8) Let jack down easy to drop control arm all the way down.
9) Remove strut from mount. You will have to lift up on the strut to pull out of lower mount, then down at an angle to remove upper strut mount.
10) Remove upper strut mount from old strut and install on new unit. An air impact wrench works best for this. Be sure to align the strut mount the same way it was when removed from old strut!
12) Have an assistant insert the strut into the upper strut mount holes while you put nuts back on & tighten from inside the trunk.
13) Place jack back under lower control arm & jack up while guiding lower part of strut in the mount.
14) Install bolts in reverse order from removal.
15) Professional alignment will be required after both sides are installed.

I used a floor jack under each control arm to lift the car off the ground the same height on each side and used a level on the outside of the tire in the vertical position to adjust mine. By adjusting, I mean to loosen lower strut bolts, & move tire in or out until it is straight from top to bottom, then tighten the bolts again. I just happen to get mine close enough that I have driven the car for over 5000 miles without any noticable tire wear on either side. I will get the professional alignment when I put new tires on the rear.
It helps to have a shop with air tools, floor jacks & stands before attempting this job.

Thanks for the procedure HotZ28, straightforward stuff.

By the way, I've got a 2001 Z28, a good car capable of being made into a great car with just a few suspension and intake/exhaust modifications.

Yea, the LS1 is a beast when turned loose with a few mods. I have owned seven third and forth gen Z28's and still have a modified 87 IROC 350 TPI hardtop and a highly modified 93 show and go Z.

I replaced my rear struts with Gabriel Ultra G56903 and now the rear sits too high to engage air compressor. The bladders are now deflated and wont allow the shock to move!?? The ride is like a Mack Truck!! What did I do wrong. The old stuts were fine but started to leak. The air compressor was working fine too.

BigRed, you could start a new thread on this, however here is a link that may help.

http://www.williamwren.com/struts/ELC.html
ELC Strut Options for Bonnevilles (same as PA)

Whthout knowing what you did during the install, it is hard to say what your problem is.

Thanks for that helpful link.
I replaced the rear stuts in the same manner as outlined on this fourm.
I did remove the sensor arm before lifting the car. The bladders were deflated when I installed them and I did get a "puff" of air when I removed the black plug cap from the air stem. When I jacked the car down the rear stayed up because the deflated bladder kept the strut from their normal travel.
I did replace the sway bar link bushings at the same time.
Is their a way to get air into the system to inflate the bladders so the car can "relax" and come to normal level? I'm goin to try and trick the system and disconnect the sensor arm and move it up and hope the pump engauges. Any other tricks? :uhoh:

:swear:
I hate to be the one to break this news to you, but you may have installed your struts in the locked mode. Did you turn the strut rod to release the strut from the shipping position? It you read your directions carefully, it should tell you how to do that. You may have to remove them to do it though! :22yikes:

I think if you add air in the locked position, it would not do anything except inflate the bladders. if you do decide to try that, you have to turn the ignition switch on & off for the compressor to come on. Just use a wire tie to hold the switch lever while you do the ignition thing. :crying:

Dont know how but...when I came home tonight the bladders were full and car level!! I guess I was too inpatient?? Nice ride too! Did front and rear with new springs in front and new swaybar bushings on all 4 weels for under $350.
Thank god for this fourm! :grinyes: