Update on "VW cranking too long" thread, CODES

hello i started a forum a little while ago (its still visible, called "vw jetta cranking too long with warm engine) and now i know the trouble with my car but wondering if someone could further explain it to me please.

Here are the codes that I've got:
1.) throttle actuator malfunction
2.) cam position sensor performance
3.) electronic coolent temprature circuit high
4.) main TWC efficiency
5.) long term fuel trim to lean
6.) O2 circuit

The last three might come from the fact that my catalytic converter was changed but after buying it we noticed that the hole for the O2 sensor on the catalytic converter sits at the front when it should be at the back of the converter. (or the other way around but thats not important). So the guy who put it on said he can work with it anyway, he drilled a whole to fit the sensor and plugged in the other one. So he pretty much custom fit it. My new mechanic said that this could have been a bad move that set codes.

If anyone could explain the 6 points to me and then tell me which parts I'd need too, I would really really appreciate it.
Thank you in advance

my jetta had the O2 sensor before the CAT.
that might be your problem if it is after the cat.
the camshaft pos actuator circ bank 1 or bank 2?
the throttle pos. sensor was it this code 16504 or P0120?
it looks like most of these are caused by the O2 sensor.
I'm not positive cause I'm no expert though

depends on what engine you have
1) either throttle body is not adapted or throttle body is faulty
2) either cam position sensor/sensor wheel faulty
3) Replace your ECT
4) Catalytic converter efficiency ( if you have an aftermarket cat, which you must have if you needed to add another o2 sensor bung, its not up to vw specs for efficiency) prob related to 5
5) system too lean- if you replaced the cat then there might be air leak into exhaust before o2 sensor or too much air into engine after maf sensor (vacuum leak)
6) o2 sensor malfunction ( either front or rear o2 sensor)

my jetta had the O2 sensor before the CAT.
that might be your problem if it is after the cat.
the camshaft pos actuator circ bank 1 or bank 2?
the throttle pos. sensor was it this code 16504 or P0120?
it looks like most of these are caused by the O2 sensor.
I'm not positive cause I'm no expert though

thank you for your answer I appreciate it a lot. The camshaft pos actuator circ bank 1 that I got. And I don't remember the code exactly but i know it had the P in it so i guess it has to be P0120.

depends on what engine you have
1) either throttle body is not adapted or throttle body is faulty
2) either cam position sensor/sensor wheel faulty
3) Replace your ECT
4) Catalytic converter efficiency ( if you have an aftermarket cat, which you must have if you needed to add another o2 sensor bung, its not up to vw specs for efficiency) prob related to 5
5) system too lean- if you replaced the cat then there might be air leak into exhaust before o2 sensor or too much air into engine after maf sensor (vacuum leak)
6) o2 sensor malfunction ( either front or rear o2 sensor)

Thank you very much for the professional detailed answer. It helped me a lot and feel more secure going back to the mechanic. I didn't need to add another O2 sensor bung I just needed to change its location as the cat I got had it exactly the opposite way it should have and couldn't exchange the cat to the right one. So the guy just plugged in the original one, drilled a new whole and conected the sensor there. I guess he messed that up...I just didn't know it could have anything to do with that too since I had the check engine light on even before he touched my car. Yeah now he created couple more codes:(

Is there a cheap way or a trick to fix all these because as Im going through that list and it will cost me more then my car:S and Im even worried to take it back now hehe

Thank you again

If you've got six codes try clearing & rechecking as soon as the light comes back on to see which is setting first.

If you've got six codes try clearing & rechecking as soon as the light comes back on to see which is setting first.

Thank you for your reply Im going back to the mechanic to recheck the computer, he already cleared the codes, and hopefully when it comes back it will be less. But some will come back for sure and thats why i need to know which parts so i can call around and look for the cheapest.

any luck? or did the MIL come back on?
if it did post the codes.

any luck? or did the MIL come back on?
if it did post the codes.

I didn't take the car yet because I was working but the light came back on. The only codes that MIGHT be gone now are #4 and #6 as I had the cat changed and O2 had no damage before. My car has obvious problems so the other 4 codes will definitely stay.

I didn't want to type it since it wasn't too important but actually I had 8 not 6 codes but the other 2 was only misfire.

I really appreciate your interest! Thank you! When I know more Ill post it for sure!

depends on what engine you have
1) either throttle body is not adapted or throttle body is faulty
2) either cam position sensor/sensor wheel faulty
3) Replace your ECT
4) Catalytic converter efficiency ( if you have an aftermarket cat, which you must have if you needed to add another o2 sensor bung, its not up to vw specs for efficiency) prob related to 5
5) system too lean- if you replaced the cat then there might be air leak into exhaust before o2 sensor or too much air into engine after maf sensor (vacuum leak)
6) o2 sensor malfunction ( either front or rear o2 sensor)

I would just like to answer to the engine type which I forgot earlier. My jetta is a 4 cyl 2.0 gas.
Thank you!

I just got the final diagnosis on my car and it looks like I am very very lucky so far.

I cleared those codes I wrote about earlier, the light came back on, and I scanned it again today. The only code I have left with is #3, and to be more specific: coolant temperature sensor needs to be replaced. The computer thinks that the engine is 40 degres cooler than what it actually is. I can replace this on my own too but its hard to find and hopefully not too expensive.

The other 7 codes were there for months, I drove my car with the light on. I hope that they will never come back. After erasing the codes and waited till the light came back on, I drove the car for another 500km or so, and scanned it today. Then I had this one code left, so chances are I won't get the other ones right?

well never say never but it should be good for now.
if they didn't come on after driveing it for awhile, you should be in good shape. change the sensor and clear the codes again.
good luck

well never say never but it should be good for now.
if they didn't come on after driveing it for awhile, you should be in good shape. change the sensor and clear the codes again.
good luck

Thank you very much!

I only spent $16CAD for the new part, unbelievable! But I also need an IAC valve which is another $50, so I guess its muchhhh less i thought it would be. Thank GOD!!!!!!!!!!!