Dawm Cops......

Dawm cops, I went down to the my usual local hangout, as I was waiting for a couple friends. Since they had not arrived, I decided to browse a real estate brochure, in the comfort of my Silvy. As I was flipping throught the pages, I noticed 2 guys were sitting in there beat out Camaro, and some bum from the streets came up to them, said something, and then the 2 guys came outside and opened up there hood, looked inside the engine and then slammed it shut.....I thought nothing of this, and continued minding my own business. Then all of a sudden I see a cop car pass my right side ever so quickly. Again, I thought nothing of this. While I was reading, I wasn't paying attention, but the cops park right in front of me, (so as that I could not escape). Then I hear a tapping on my window and the cop asks me what I am doing, I state the obvious, reading my magazine........And then he starts to laugh.....hahaha.....Then he asks me why do I have strobe lights on my truck? I tell him they are for show (really they are to scare the shit out of those Honda driver's who feel it is appropriate to drive 30 kilometres on the third lane of the highway), but anywho, he asks me to put them on, I do and they blink back and forth....Then he starts laughing, I turn them off, and since his buddy didn't see, he asks me to put them on again.....Blah, blah, blah.....Then the darn cops ask me why do I have a John Deere license plate in the front of my truck, like what the f**k is your guys problem........Then they ask me to open up my hood, I do and they see the neat ass chrome, and such under my hood....I have done a lot of work under the hood in terms of appearance, and some performance upgardes.....they poke around, and check under the truck and in the bed......All the while those 2 guys in the Camaro are staring at me......Then the cops start laughing, and tell me to get rid of the lights, and the plate.....I tell them ok.....And they say well, I should be giving you a ticket, and blah, blah, blah....Anyways, turns out that they were just trying to screw with me for some reason.....they did all this on purpose.....Someone had called the cops and said that there was someone selling dope to some guy on the streets, and the cops picked me out.....Anywho, the one cop rushes to the guys in the Camaro and they are scared, they opened up there hood, and then I don't know what really happened...... I just drove aa fast as possible away......Anyways, all I did was pull the fuse to the strobes, know it is really for show, and the john Deere license plate is still in the same spot....The cops can go screw themselves, cause, "noth'in runs like a deere".........Sorry if I bored some of you guys.....I just had to tell someone.......

I had a friend with strobes like that on his car. He did get a ticket, but the idiot turned them on while driving down the street with a cop right in front of him... They can't really give you a ticket for them unless you are using them on the street.

My strobes are for the fire department, but I did have a county cop that tried to rip the headlight flasher out of my truck because he didn't like them (he saw me using them on a run) I told he to get fucked and drove off. He chased me all the way to our Fire Cheif's house (who btw is a CAPTAIN on the Sherrif's department) and then he told hem to get fucked. Then he fired him when he got back to work.

Morall of the story.....most cops suck, some are okay though.

I use my strobes all the time. I've even pulled over our deputies before and asked if they would drive me home!! lol

i guess its just where I live.

i had a cop give me shit once because i have white LED bulbs in my turn signals and they blink really fast (i never fixed it). I love when they say "your gonna get rid of thoes lights, right?"....yes officer, right away.

I get stopped now because I haven't reangled my headlights at all.......I just try not to ever get stuck in traffic behind a cop............just wait till I do the 4 headlight mod this week........HAHAHAHA.....lol

Yah, I did the 4 headlight mod.....And I got screwed because of it......It was night and some dawm bastard was driving like 40kilometres in a 80 zone.....so I gave him the 4 headlights, plus the drl and the fogs all together......I guess I didn't see it was a cop.......He made me cut off the one wire ground for the headlights, in order to avoid a ticket......Well when I got home I just reconnect it back together.....dawm cops....

hey how do you mod your lights so they can all be on at the same time? I did the ground wire to keep my low beams on with the high beams, but I would at least like to keep my fogs on when the low/high's are on

It's simple but it takes about 2 hours to do......what year is your truck?

2002

i want my fogs to stay on also

i am not sure what happened to directions...

sorry one sec.....

Here goes boys....
If you have questions let me know before you start. If something is not clear let me know before you start.

All forward lights on at once.

Mod that will turn Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) fog lights, High and Low headlights all on at the same. Does not require drilling or adding switches.

Prerequisites; Single wire headlamp modification if you want low beam headlights to stay on when you turn on the high beams. Otherwise only high beams, fog and DRL will be lit.

So what you get at the end is, the hi lights, low lights, fog lights, and the daytime running lights on at the same time, when you flick the switch.....

Used common parts from Radio shack. Goal was to make it all off the shelf parts and keep the cost down. All parts used can be swapped out if you have a suitable replacement. This mod adds an extra way to get input to the DRL and fog lamp control signals. So no high current parts are required. In fact the parts I used are over rated but the convenience they offered offset any small cost advantage.

Tools / parts needed (beyond what you probably already have)
Volt / Ohm meter
5 pieces of 3 to 4 feet of 22 gauge wire
Soldering iron and solder (Don’t care for squeeze on connectors)
1 Ring style wire connector
3 feet of heat shrink 3/16 inch and 5/16 diameters
Several Zip ties
4 female spade connectors (will fit onto relay)
1 Relay (Radio Shack part number 275-226 cost $5.99)
4 diodes (Radio Shack part number 276-1114 cost $1.69 x 2 = $3.38)
A nut and bolt to mount the relay (found and aero nut and bolt in the garage)
Two to three hours without the kids, dog, wife and beverage of choice.

Steps:
1) Determine a suitable location to mount the relay. I used the underside of the drivers side cowl bracket (the one you remove in step three). It has a hole already drilled in it that matches the hole size of the relay I used. Whatever location you chose this is were the wires from the fuse box will end at.

2) Disconnect the battery negative terminal (MUST DO THIS, or you may get a repeat of the 4th of July).

3) Remove the left side (drivers side) fender to cowl bracket. It is a curved bracket that goes across part of the fuse box in the engine compartment. Four bolts, two on the cowl and two on the fender hold it on. Note: I mounted the relay to the underside of this bracket.

4) Remove the cover from the fuse box in the engine compartment.

5) Carefully release the tabs holding the main body of the fuse box and lift it up

6) Tilt the main body of the fuse box so you can see the junction blocks on the bottom.

7) Locate the long Gray colored block (Block C1 for those with a service manual)

Unbolt the Gray block.

9) Cut the small zip ties holding the wire bunches (need working room).

10) Locate the two white wires at E8 (the connector is done in a row column manner. The letters are on the short side A to F, and the numbers on the long side 1 to 12. There are fine markings on the sides of the connector.)

11) Remove the pin safety for the white wires you just found. The safety is a blue piece of plastic used to prevent the wires from coming out of the connector. It should just slide out.

12) Using an ice pick carefully release the locking tab holding the white wires to the gray connector. You should now have the two white wires connected to a single metal connector.

13) READ CAREFULLY, THIS IS THE ONLY STEP THAT IS NOT FOOLPROOF (any coincidence it’s step 13?…..)You will need to cut the white wire that feeds to the manual light switch, but there is no easy way of knowing which one of the two wires. The other white wire feeds to the Body Control Module and is used for automatic headlight operation. There is 50 / 50 chance of getting the correct wire. If you get the wrong wire you will have to splice the wire back together and redo with the correct wire. If you do have to splice the wire back make sure you solder them back to together and cover the connection with heat shrink. On my Silvy this was how they were orientated, no guarantees all wire harnesses are the same. Standing of the drivers’ side facing into the engine compartment, hold the connector for the two wires so that the copper part is also facing into the engine compartment, you should see no copper and a hole in the center on the metal connector. The wire to the right is the wire I cut. Make the cut about 1.5 to 2 inches down from the base of the metal connector.

14) Strip ½ an inch of insulation from each end of the cut wire.

15) Test if you cut the correct wire. Reinsert the gray block back into the main housing. Do not insert the metal connector from the wire you just cut into the block, let it hang free. Do NOT reconnect the battery. Connect one end of your OHM meter to the wire you just cut (not the side with the metal connector and the other end to the positive battery terminal (use the battery jump post). You should get little or no reading , high resistance. Turn the manual headlight switch on to the headlamp setting. The meter should now show little or no resistance. If not, swap the meter connection on the white wire to the side with the metal terminal. Retest. If the meter now drops to zero resistance with the manual switch on and goes to high resistance with it off then you cut the wrong white wire. Make any necessary corrections. By the way I got lucky and cut the correct wire the first time. Alternate test method without a meter (did not try but should work, in theory). Insert the metal connector back into E8, make sure the cut ends of the white wires do not touch anything, may need to temp cover with tape, reinstall the gray block, reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery. Turn the manual switch to on. The headlights should not come on. Cover the two light sensors on the dash with a dark towel. Manual switch off, start the Silvy, put it in gear and release the parking brake. The headlights should come on. If so you have cut the correct wire. If the manual switch operates the lights and the automatic sensor does not then you have cut the wrong wire. Undo the battery cable when done testing or when removing the gray block from the main block.

16) Once the correct wire is identified, remove the gray block from the main block

17) Slide two pieces of 2 inch long heat shrink (5/16 inch) on the cut wire and move them down far enough to be out of the way.

18) Connect, solder, two diodes to the cut wire (not the wire still connected to the metal connector). The white stripe on both diodes must be at the opposite end of the connection. That is the wire and the diodes must be connected on the black side of the diode. When done you should have a white wire with two diodes attached to the wire and the other ends of the diodes (the side with the white strip) going nowhere, yet. Kind of looks like a “Y”.

19) Connect; solder the other end of the cut wire (the short piece still connected to the metal connector) to one of the diodes. Does not matter which one.

20) Solder a piece of wire to the other diode. I will call this the new white wire. This wire will need to be long enough to reach the new relay. This wire will carry a positive voltage to the relay coil when the manual headlamp switch in turned on (keep this in mind for testing if you have problems).

21) Slide one piece of heat shrink over the connections it should cover all the exposed connections. Shrink it. Repeat with the second piece over the first. This just adds extra strength. The diodes should be safely in the center of the heat shrink. Do not bend were the diodes are.

22) Reinsert the metal connector back into the gray block at E8.

23) Locate the light green and black wire at F7 on the gray block.

24) Remove it from the block using an ice pick to free the lock tab. Make sure the blue safety clip is also out.

25) Strip some insulation from the wire WITHOUT cutting the wire.

26) Wrap the black side of the diode around the exposed insulation and solder the diode to the wire.

27) Solder a new green wire to the other side of the diode (the side with the white stripe).

28) Slide heat shrink over the metal connector so it covers the diode and all exposed solder joints. Shrink it and repeat with a second piece of heat shrink.

29) Reinsert the metal connector back into the gray block at F7.

30) Locate the Dark green and white wire at B3 on the gray block.

31) Remove it from the block using an ice pick to free the lock tab. Make sure the blue safety clip is also out.

32) Strip some insulation from the wire WITHOUT cutting the wire.

33) Wrap the black side of the diode around the exposed insulation and solder the diode to the wire.

34) Solder a new green wire to the other side of the diode (the side with the white stripe).

35) Slide heat shrink over the metal connector so it covers the diode and all exposed solder joints. Shrink it and repeat with a second piece of heat shrink.

36) Reinsert the metal connector back into the gray block at B3.

37) Connect the two new green wires together. In a “T” fashion. That is, each of the two new green wires should be about 5 inches long and connected to each other with another new green wire connected between the first two new green wires. The third new green wire needs to be long enough to reach the relay. The two short pieces will remain hidden inside the main fuse block. What you have done is connect the Fog and the DRL control lines together. The diodes prevent the DRL turning on the Fog lights and the Fog lights from turning on the DRL in normal operation.

38) Cover the connection were the three green wires meet with heat shrink. (testing note: when this wire is shorted to ground it will turn the DRL and fog lam relays on).

39) Locate the two Purple wires at C3 on the gray block.

40) Remove it from the block using an ice pick to free the lock tab. Make sure the blue safety clip is also out.

41) Strip some insulation from the wire WITHOUT cutting the wire.

42) Solder a piece of new purple wire around the exposed insulation.

43) Slide a piece of heat shrink over the connection and shrink it. (testing note: this is the negative side of the highbeam switch, when the switch is in the high beam position this wire will show no resistance to ground, when the switch is in the low position you will get no meter reading, high resistance, when measured to ground).

44) Reinsert the metal connector back into the gray block at C3

45) Put the blue safety pins back in.

46) Reinsert the gray connector into the main
block (check the orientation should only go one way.) Bolt the connector back to the main block

47) Zip tie up any necessary wires.

48) Set the main block back into its bracket. Make sure the unconnected ends of the new wires come out of the block. I used the opening to the right (closest to the windshield). You should have three new wires coming out of the block. Snap into place.

49) Put the cover back on the block.

50) Solder one end of the new Black wire to the ring connector.

51) Attach the ring connector to ground. I used the ground bolt below the light inside the hood. There is a braded metal ground strap connected to it. Be careful not to over torque this bolt, it will snap off.

52) Run the new black wire to where the relay will be located.

53) Reinstall the metal fender to cowl bracket

54) Solder the spade connectors to each end of the new wires.

55) Connect the wires to the relay. The white wire goes to one side of the relay coil and the purple goes to the other side of the relay coil. The green goes to one side of the relay contacts and the black goes to the other.

56) Mount the relay so no connectors touch. Under the curved fender to cowl bracket works great.

57) Reconnect the battery.

58) Done, Enjoy.

To undo this mod simply disconnect the white wire from the relay and cover the wire up so it does not short out on anything. The rest of the components you can leave in place. They will not have any effect on normal operation. Now you have 8 bulbs shining, this is really cool and all those little Honda's ain't going to bother you no more.

I copy and posted from my earlier posts, so don't say your head hurts or I'll kill yah.....

Thanks, but no thanks... :dunno:

Ahh, come on......

Nah, i'm not getting in to soldering stuff

I copy and posted from my earlier posts, so don't say your head hurts or I'll kill yah.....

Do you know how to do the all lights on mod on a 2004 silverado?