Replacing S/C Coupler - instructions please.

Hi all,

I recently purchased a supercharger coupler replacement for my '95 Riv. I am looking for instructions for replacing. Can anyone point in the right direction please?

Also, do I need to replace any seals in the process? If yes, where do I source these from?

Hi all,

I recently purchased a supercharger coupler replacement for my '95 Riv. I am looking for instructions for replacing. Can anyone point in the right direction please?

Also, do I need to replace any seals in the process? If yes, where do I source these from?

greendragon, Have you figured out how to do this yet? I am in the same situation. I found instructions online on how to replace the coupler, but it must have been for later models. Once I removed the alternator I realized the mounting bracket for the alternator is blocking the ability to remove the S/C snout. The bracket is more than just an alternator backet. It mounts a number of other items, tensoners, water pump tubes, pulleys, etc. The bracket appears to mount to the engine block. One of the bolts I removed even had oil on it. Needless to say I gave up on this approach. So now I'm looking for a better approach. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm thinking the whole S/C needs to be pulled just to remove the snout, yuk.

Here are the instructions I've found, but were slightly different than the '95 layout.
http://www.regalgs.org/coupler.shtml

Thanks in advance for anyones suggestions.

Thanks for the information jrn1023. This is exactly what I was looking for a few weeks ago, before I/we attempted to go ahead withouth this info. I too discovered the same situation you mentioned. The whole damn bracket has to be removed!

However, this weekend we will start and will be budgeting about three days to do it. I am in no rush and do not want to become too pissed off and end up throwing wrenches all around the place out of frustration.

Also, one helpful hint if you decide to take this on over a period of time. To drain the oil go to Meijers (supermarket here in the midwest) pharmacy or other pharmacy and pick up a syringe with an extension tube for babies and small kids. This syringe set up allows parents like me to go to the bottom of the drug bottle or at least get into the bottle with the thinner tube and draw out the drug. They are free, just ask for a syringe with tube for kids drugs.

I will let you know how we go on this project, if I haven't put a bullet into my car...........

I'll be looking forward to hearing how things go. I'm definitely going to attempt it again. Next time I'll bring in a mechanic friend for consultation. He's helped me with other items on the Riv., but is not too familiar with S/C's since they don't see too many of them. Good luck greendragon, and be sure to update us.

Success!!! After consulting my mechanic friend, he gave me hints on how to remove the large mounting bracket blocking the S/C snout. From my not so good memory, here are the steps I took.

1) remove belts.
2) remove alternator
3) remove double threaded bolt holding the bracket to S/C snout. I used a second nut tightened to the first to back the bolt out.
4) Remove S/C tensioner.
5) remove cooling lines from water pump and engine block. Once the nut is removed from the mounting bracket, these tubes should simply pull out of the pump and block. Also, remove the hoses to make room. Note this is messy. Make sure you have something to catch antifreeze that WILL drain out. You could try draining the antifreeze from the radiator to try and lower the level, but I just let mine drip from the block and pump.
6) Remove the idle pulley. This is the pulley that does not turn anything but simply acts as redirection for both belts.
7) now you should have access to the powersteering pump. There are two bolt holding this to the mounting bracket. You can gain access to these bolts thru the holes in the powersteering pulley. Once the pump is loosened, it can be moved to gain access to the bolts holding the bracket. These bolts should be obvious once the PS pump is out of the way.
8) There is one last bolt down below that I had to go thru the wheel well to gain access to, so you'll need to jack up the right front and remove the tire. The bolt has threads on both sides, one to screw into the bracket and the other side to retain some wiring.
9) Now the S/C snout should be accessible. Follow the instructions provided in the link provided earlier to replace the coupler.
10) Reverse the order to put everything back together.

It took me ~5hrs to complete the project. I was planning on taking a few nights, but once I got started I figured I could make a late night out of it and get it finished. I did have to waste some time letting things cool after I did get started. I didn't want to drain warm/hot antifreeze or take the S/C apart while it was still warm. So I could've shaved some time off if I had waited to start with a cold engine.

You may want to get some O rings for the water hoses that connect to the engine block and water pump, since you'll have the removed anyway. I didn't follow this recommendation so I'm not sure of part numbers or where to obtain them. Its probably a good idea though.

I think most of the tools I used were 13 and 15mm wrenches, long and short sockets, and an occasional extension.

End result, no more rattling when idling in gear!!!!!

Hope this helps a bit.

Thanks JRN1023.

This offers us encouragement. We took another look at it and thought it was too hard. But given the time frame you mentioned it took you, 5 hours, then we will make the attempt again. Dang, it just looks so intimidating what with all that things you have to move.

I will keep you informed as well.

Good work!

jrn,

I have attempted to replace the coupler, without success. There is way too much involved. We got down to the powersteering unit and cannot get to the second bolt. We realize we need to take it off or move it out of the way to get to the other bracket bolt. A socket will not fit over the bracket bolt without moving the powersteering unit. We can't get any wrench, socket or anything to get that second pumps bolt off. So we called it off.

But I have now done something stupid. I thought I had memorized the supercharger belt configuration. I my excitement, I did not take photos' before I started. could you please send photo's of both your belts paths. That would help me a lot.

Right now by car is in the driveway and obviously undrivable. The sooner you can send me photo's the faster I can get over this.

Thanks again.

greendragon,

Sorry to hear you weren't successful with your coupler replacement. Did you try to get a deep socket on that lower bolt on the P/S pump? You should be able to fit a socket thru the holes in the P/S pump pully. I think I actually used a box end wrench to get the bolt off and a deep socket to get it back on, once the cooling hoses were out of the way.

I'm also sorry to inform you that I send the Riv. back with my son who is 90+ minutes away. I actually drew a picture of the belts but left the drawing with the car. I do recall that the SC belt had to be in place, but not tensioned, prior to putting the accessory belt on. Then once the accessory belt is on the SC belt should be tightened on the tensioner.

Hopefully somone else with a '95 can respond with pictures. But if you take your time and remember that the SC belt goes on the inside track of double pullys you'll eventually get them on.

Good Luck,
jrn

Hi Jrn, we got it! I think I am gettig old. I thought it was configured one way but then we tried what appeared to be a radical approach and lo and behold, it works! The car starts and runs without a problem. So far.

I will make another attempt with the deeper socket on both the ps pump and bracket bolt. But it is getting hotter and more humid here in Michigan so I may leave it for a few weeks or until it cools down.

Thanks for gettting back to me so soon!