1996 fuel problems!

I was driving my jimmy to target and all was well until I decided to turn off the vehicle. I came back outside to leave and it wouldnt start. It would crank forever, but just wouldnt start.

I opened the schrader valve and had someone try and start it. No fuel sprayed out. It has 156,000 miles on it. Is there a fuel pump fuse? I checked for one but couldnt find it. Isnt there a wire on the drivers side under the hood that is used to test the pump?

I was wondering, if the ignition switch was bad........could it turn the engine over but not trigger the pump? I would appreaciate anyones help.

Thanks

If you're not getting any spray from the shrader valve, your fuel pump is dead.

I'd go with rlith, it's a common problem, but there is a fuse, the ecmb fuse is 10A and powers fuel pump and fuel level sensor. Is the fuel guage working? If so then it 's the pump since they both have a common power source. There's also a fuel pump relay in the power supply line, it is in the engine compartment. It gets its command from the Power Control Module.
The quick way to check, if your home from Target yet, is to check the power to the pump. If you've got power replace the pump, if not buy the Haynes manual for $20 bucks, it's the best money you'll spend.
Good luck, let us know what happens.
94

I'd go with rlith, it's a common problem, but there is a fuse, the ecmb fuse is 10A and powers fuel pump and fuel level sensor. Is the fuel guage working? If so then it 's the pump since they both have a common power source. There's also a fuel pump relay in the power supply line, it is in the engine compartment. It gets its command from the Power Control Module.
The quick way to check, if your home from Target yet, is to check the power to the pump. If you've got power replace the pump, if not buy the Haynes manual for $20 bucks, it's the best money you'll spend.
Good luck, let us know what happens.
94

How exactly do i check the power to the pump? There seems to be three relays on the passanger side engine compartment.....which one is the pump relay? The fuel gauge is working and i checked the fuse, its good. I put 12 volts to the little red wire on the drivers side engine compartment, the pump didnt turn on. Which is the better manual.....chilton or haynes?

If the realy was bad, the pump would not run.....correct?

Thanks a lot for all the help i appreciate it.

on the passenger side is a loose wire with a female blade connector on hit popping out of the harness. Apply 12 volts directly to it (from battery) and your pump will come on if the pump works, or won't come on if it doesn't. If it does, you've narrowed it down to a relay or a ground.

on the passenger side is a loose wire with a female blade connector on hit popping out of the harness. Apply 12 volts directly to it (from battery) and your pump will come on if the pump works, or won't come on if it doesn't. If it does, you've narrowed it down to a relay or a ground.

Are you sure it's on the passenger side? I always thought it was on the drivers side.....the female spade connector is on a little red wire coming out of a harness....I have applied 12 volts to it...(the one on the drivers side), and the pump did not turn on.

There is a fuel pump fuel I believe in the fuse panel as well.

But this sounds like a popped fuel pump.

This is what happened to mine exactly.

Parked it, went out later to start it up and no go.

Also, turn the key to the on position and listen for the pump priming.

If it doesn't it is gone if the fuse is intact.

Chilton's bites; go with Haynes.
Turning the key to 'on' and no fuel pump sound is a dead ringer for a dead pump, for any domestic that I know of...

Chilton's bites; go with Haynes.
Turning the key to 'on' and no fuel pump sound is a dead ringer for a dead pump, for any domestic that I know of...

Yea, I have come to the conclusion that it is definitly the pump. Now, only thing left to do is find one that isnt so expensive. Cheapest I can find is $227......that's with the sending unit, so it seems reasonable.

If you're sending unit is ok, you can get the pump itself at dealer for about 80-90 bux (I paid 82.00 )

If you're sending unit is ok, you can get the pump itself at dealer for about 80-90 bux (I paid 82.00 )

How do I know if the sending unit is bad. Does it not pump fuel......does it leak.....will it just look like its going bad? I would much rather buy just the pump itself. Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.

If the sending unit is bad, then you won't get a gas gauge reading.

If the sending unit is bad, then you won't get a gas gauge reading.

Thanks a lot. I'll keep that in mind.

Update: I took the old pump and sending unit out. I took the pump out of the assembly and hooked it up to 12 volts while submerged in water. It pumped perfectly fine. While taking the assembly out of the tank, I broke the inlet and outlet tubes on the sending unit. So I bought a new pump with the unit. I havent gotten around to putting it in....

So i decided to check the voltage at the batt; it was 12.4 volts. I had someone crank the engine while i took a multimeter to the pump plug. I was getting 8 volts.....for what i think is the gas gauge....and i was getting 10.3 volts at the pump while cranking. I dont think that would b enough volts to get the pump going....would it?

It was at 11.4 volts when the key was turned to the on position while it was priming.

So, could I have saved myself some money and just bought a battery?

Yes, that is low.

Battery should be putting out 12.8volts or more.

Yes, that is low.

Battery should be putting out 12.8volts or more.

Should it put out 12.8 volts at the fuel pump plug too? Would the reason that my jimmy wouldnt start 30 minutes after i shut it off....be the battery though?

One more thing...........i know that 10.4 volts is low.....but it cranked perfectly fine and everything....like always.....would the pump NOT turn on unless it was getting exactly 12 volts?

Should it put out 12.8 volts at the fuel pump plug too? Would the reason that my jimmy wouldnt start 30 minutes after i shut it off....be the battery though?

One more thing...........i know that 10.4 volts is low.....but it cranked perfectly fine and everything....like always.....would the pump NOT turn on unless it was getting exactly 12 volts?

It will turn on, but it won't be pumping much.