Factory 10 bolt strength?

How strong is a factory 10 bolt rearend?
I'm sure I could buy axles from Moser or Superior but are they worth the effort if you are running decent HP? (375+)
What would be a decent replacement posi?
I was originally planning on swapping out the rearend with a 9 inch but would rather build this one if it would work well.
I plan on daily driving this car and playing in the hills so I don't want a locker.
Any help would be great.
Thanks, Ken

What era Pontiac rear? The early one (8.2" ring gear, "semi-floating" axles) is pretty tough. We've had one in a '68 Firebird running mid-10s on nitrous and low 11s on motor, for over 5 years. Moser axles, Auburn "Pro Unit", 4.10 gears. 400 Pontiac, right at 600 horse. More torque than your BBC (all before nitrous).
The "big" 10-bolt ('71-up, "C-lock") is a copy of the Chevy 12-bolt with 10 holes drilled in the ring gear. Good rear. As tough as a 9"? Probably not. Still, lots of Pontiacs going deep into the 9s with them.
Hope this is helpful.

Thanks for the response.
It is a 67 firebird so early 10 bolt.
I will run it then and build it when money lets me.
How is the Auburn unit on the street? is it forgiving on cornering?

I have an 8.8 in the garage that I was debating on building it for the Firebird or I have a Jeep that I thought about building it for it instead.
I think it will be going to the jeep instead.
Thanks.
Ken

Ken,
Actually, the Auburn is the unit of choice for a street car or a street/strip. A racer will use a spool. The "locker" (ratcheting rear) will have a harsh action on cornering. The clutch-type like the Auburn is the way to go.