When To Shift??
Sargento69
05-06-2005, 11:52 AM
I have a b20b in my crx and i am wanting know is at what rpm should i shift???
BLU CIVIC
05-06-2005, 12:15 PM
hmmmm...a guy in the 240 forum did the calculations for shift points....i'll have to search for it
Sargento69
05-06-2005, 12:16 PM
If U Find Sumthing Post It On Here Please
BLU CIVIC
05-06-2005, 12:29 PM
ok...i think this need to be a stickie...but i'll put it in the FAQ...from what i see...u have to take in a lot of variables to get your ideal shift points...so what would go for you wouldn't go for someone else unless their car was exactly the same...so break out your calculator
http://www.slowgt.com/Calc1.htm
http://www.slowgt.com/Calc1.htm
Sargento69
05-06-2005, 12:32 PM
Hey Thanks For The Help!!
BLU CIVIC
05-06-2005, 12:41 PM
no prob
civickiller
05-06-2005, 07:31 PM
whatever the stock shiftpoint is unless his engine is modified in some way and i dont mean bolt ons
BLU CIVIC
05-06-2005, 07:39 PM
that calculation takes all those things into consideration
civickiller
05-06-2005, 07:45 PM
too many factors to say that it would be taht for every single setup like that.
like i said stick to stock redline. only other real way is to go on a dyno
like i said stick to stock redline. only other real way is to go on a dyno
BLU CIVIC
05-06-2005, 07:54 PM
too many factors to say that it would be taht for every single setup like that.
like i said stick to stock redline. only other real way is to go on a dyno
did you even click the link :confused: it takes into consideration your set-up and then gives your shift points
racing to reline isn't the smartest thing to do and you would loose to someone who shifts and stay in their powerband...which is what he is asking...anyone can race to redline but to stay ahead, keep your rpms from dropping so that you maximze your speed and power, you need to know your approximate shift points
like i said stick to stock redline. only other real way is to go on a dyno
did you even click the link :confused: it takes into consideration your set-up and then gives your shift points
racing to reline isn't the smartest thing to do and you would loose to someone who shifts and stay in their powerband...which is what he is asking...anyone can race to redline but to stay ahead, keep your rpms from dropping so that you maximze your speed and power, you need to know your approximate shift points
civickiller
05-06-2005, 08:05 PM
yeah i did click on it. so what rear end ratio is he going to put in there. he doesnt have a rear end ?
BLU CIVIC
05-06-2005, 08:14 PM
itz a basis for him to go off of
Please bear in mind that these calculators are approximations only. Although the information is based on a 5.0 liter Mustang, it is general enough to apply to any car used for drag racing
Please bear in mind that these calculators are approximations only. Although the information is based on a 5.0 liter Mustang, it is general enough to apply to any car used for drag racing
civickiller
05-06-2005, 09:11 PM
the calculations arent gonna be right because they are for a rwd car, not a fwd.
so you cant use that. like i said use stock or stick it on a dyno to see your power band and shift accordingly
so you cant use that. like i said use stock or stick it on a dyno to see your power band and shift accordingly
Kven
05-07-2005, 12:42 AM
well you cant always rely on theory vs. real life. i would just get it dynoed and shift where hp drops off. if you notice how some of the road racing drivers shift, they tend to shift a little higher than redline so when the revs drop, it still be in the power band.
btw, for rear-end ratio; use Final Drive ratio(pretty much same thing)
btw, which calculator are you guys looking at? there's one that asks a little about the engine, but also asks for a "shift point" so that wouldnt tell you when to shift. also, that calculator cant figure out the powerband of different motors(no calculators really can; too many variables(mainly cam/ignition timing though))
btw, for rear-end ratio; use Final Drive ratio(pretty much same thing)
btw, which calculator are you guys looking at? there's one that asks a little about the engine, but also asks for a "shift point" so that wouldnt tell you when to shift. also, that calculator cant figure out the powerband of different motors(no calculators really can; too many variables(mainly cam/ignition timing though))
BLU CIVIC
05-07-2005, 09:41 AM
well you cant always rely on theory vs. real life. i would just get it dynoed and shift where hp drops off. if you notice how some of the road racing drivers shift, they tend to shift a little higher than redline so when the revs drop, it still be in the power band.
btw, for rear-end ratio; use Final Drive ratio(pretty much same thing)
btw, which calculator are you guys looking at? there's one that asks a little about the engine, but also asks for a "shift point" so that wouldnt tell you when to shift. also, that calculator cant figure out the powerband of different motors(no calculators really can; too many variables(mainly cam/ignition timing though))
on that site i think it said to shift 1.5 rpms above your ideal shift point
i was refering to that Evenly Spaced Transmission Gears for Off-the-line Gearing and Rear End Ratio calculatior...but it said it was an approximation...gotta start somewhere
btw, for rear-end ratio; use Final Drive ratio(pretty much same thing)
btw, which calculator are you guys looking at? there's one that asks a little about the engine, but also asks for a "shift point" so that wouldnt tell you when to shift. also, that calculator cant figure out the powerband of different motors(no calculators really can; too many variables(mainly cam/ignition timing though))
on that site i think it said to shift 1.5 rpms above your ideal shift point
i was refering to that Evenly Spaced Transmission Gears for Off-the-line Gearing and Rear End Ratio calculatior...but it said it was an approximation...gotta start somewhere
94DXSiR
05-07-2005, 11:30 AM
Im not so sure on some of those calculators myself, I did one and it got my hopes up but then reality came crashing down.
I put in for my DX coupe about 2400 pounds, stock its 2230, thats also with me in it and a B16A, and im not the biggest guy in the world myself, pushing about 130 and I think the B16 weighs about just 50 pounds more than a D series. Taking the base power of my engine, its 170 because its the 5 mill series engine. I didnt add any power I got from my mods, even though to the flywheel it would only be about maybe 10-15 at most with i/h/e/fw/cl, I just took the base, and its still a low miles engine, just bairly past the 30K mark and its been rebuilt.
It said with those imputs I should be running:
Calculated Best ET: 13.94
Calculated Best MPH: 97.2
Anyone even think thats right?
I put in for my DX coupe about 2400 pounds, stock its 2230, thats also with me in it and a B16A, and im not the biggest guy in the world myself, pushing about 130 and I think the B16 weighs about just 50 pounds more than a D series. Taking the base power of my engine, its 170 because its the 5 mill series engine. I didnt add any power I got from my mods, even though to the flywheel it would only be about maybe 10-15 at most with i/h/e/fw/cl, I just took the base, and its still a low miles engine, just bairly past the 30K mark and its been rebuilt.
It said with those imputs I should be running:
Calculated Best ET: 13.94
Calculated Best MPH: 97.2
Anyone even think thats right?
bambam89lx
05-12-2005, 09:49 AM
shift points in a b20b are at 6500k. Trust me. i have one...but that's with I/H/E...if you don't have those, power will begin to fall off at 5500 instead of 6500.
bambam89lx
05-12-2005, 09:50 AM
btw...if you have a b16 tranny on the b20, then bring 4th gear all the way to 7k in the 1/4 mile or else you'll be shifting to 5th!
if you have an ls tranny...then...BAH!!!
if you have an ls tranny...then...BAH!!!
Sargento69
05-12-2005, 12:25 PM
whats I/H/E???
BLU CIVIC
05-12-2005, 12:49 PM
intake, header, exhaust...basic 1st bolt-on's that many people do...helps engine breath better by giving better exhaust flow...good for about 5-10bhp (base horsepower)
Sargento69
05-12-2005, 02:31 PM
oh yeah i got those i have a magnaflow cat back exhaust, when i bought the b20 it came with 4-2-1 headers. and the intake it just has the filter attached to the trottlebody.. anyone one know what kind of intakes and cold air intakes would fit? so the filter would be where its suppsed to be..
SiZ
05-12-2005, 03:08 PM
90-93 Teg would be your best bet if you don't want to move your battery.
Sargento69
05-12-2005, 03:32 PM
ok..and if the battery is already in the rear??
BLU CIVIC
05-12-2005, 03:38 PM
i know AEM is selling CAI's and short ram intakes for cars with swapped motors...
Hybrid Intake Systems
Application Part Number 50 State Legal Availability MSRP
Honda Civic 1988-91 with B18C1 21-5002C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1988-91 with B18C5 or B16 21-5001C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1996-00 w/B18C1 21-5005C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1992-95 with B18C1 21-5003C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1992-95 with H22A 21-5004C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1996-00 with B18C5 or B16A 21-5007C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1992-95 w/ B16A or B18C5 21-5006C N/A New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1996-00 w/ H22A 21-5008C N/A New Release $272.50
http://www.aempower.com/product_intake_app.asp
toooooooooo expensive IMO
Hybrid Intake Systems
Application Part Number 50 State Legal Availability MSRP
Honda Civic 1988-91 with B18C1 21-5002C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1988-91 with B18C5 or B16 21-5001C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1996-00 w/B18C1 21-5005C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1992-95 with B18C1 21-5003C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1992-95 with H22A 21-5004C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1996-00 with B18C5 or B16A 21-5007C No New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1992-95 w/ B16A or B18C5 21-5006C N/A New Release $272.50
Honda Civic 1996-00 w/ H22A 21-5008C N/A New Release $272.50
http://www.aempower.com/product_intake_app.asp
toooooooooo expensive IMO
turtlecrxsi
05-12-2005, 03:41 PM
ok..and if the battery is already in the rear??
then you can probably get just about any intake for a short ram to fit, but for a "cold air" that goes to the bumper, best bet would probably be for 90-93 integra.... note: if you cheap out on CAI, the lower pipe will face downward leaving your filter vertical from the ground... quality intake will loop smoothly to your bumper for a nice horizontal fit)
then you can probably get just about any intake for a short ram to fit, but for a "cold air" that goes to the bumper, best bet would probably be for 90-93 integra.... note: if you cheap out on CAI, the lower pipe will face downward leaving your filter vertical from the ground... quality intake will loop smoothly to your bumper for a nice horizontal fit)
Sargento69
05-12-2005, 03:53 PM
thanks alot for the help !!!
SiZ
05-12-2005, 06:37 PM
Aye!
If the battery is already in the back (bonus), use the 99-00 Si intake, it has less bends. :)
If the battery is already in the back (bonus), use the 99-00 Si intake, it has less bends. :)
turtlecrxsi
05-13-2005, 07:16 AM
Aye!
If the battery is already in the back (bonus), use the 99-00 Si intake, it has less bends. :)
I wouldn't know but it just seems by the different shape of the front ends that would be kind of awkward.
If the battery is already in the back (bonus), use the 99-00 Si intake, it has less bends. :)
I wouldn't know but it just seems by the different shape of the front ends that would be kind of awkward.
SiZ
05-13-2005, 10:21 AM
Huh?
Thats the setup that people with B series motors use the most if the have the battery relocated.
Thats the setup that people with B series motors use the most if the have the battery relocated.
turtlecrxsi
05-13-2005, 12:05 PM
Huh?
Thats the setup that people with B series motors use the most if the have the battery relocated.
I just meant since a 99 coupe chassis is different than a crx but w/e...
Thats the setup that people with B series motors use the most if the have the battery relocated.
I just meant since a 99 coupe chassis is different than a crx but w/e...
SiZ
05-13-2005, 10:54 PM
The engine bay is not that different at all. ;)
bambam89lx
05-16-2005, 03:04 PM
i'm using the 88-91 civic/crx ebay cold air intake right now. It fits fine. But, i did notice more power w/ my 99-00 civic si cold air even tho it was dented. it only had the one bend down to the filter and a slight curve right before the filter.
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