code 22 and 33

:sly: I haven't even had a chance to pull the dog house yet to figure this one out. Between work and trying to get over the pneumonia for the past two months I'm getting edgy cuz I have no grease under my nails.

Here's the deal: My wife was driving the van and it sputtered for a bit then seemed to get better. SES light came on. I pulled the codes, got a 22 and a 33, TPS and MAP sensor. The TPS and MAP sensor are both new - less than 200 miles on them. I'm thinking the vacumm hose on the MAP popped loose. Like I said, I haven't looked yet but the thing that perplexes me is why it would throw a code for the TPS too.
If you guys have any thoughts I'd appreciate it.

forgot to post, it's an '89 Z engine

That's probably the most likely suspect, IMO. Start there, reset the computer and see what you get. Often one or more of the codes are what I would call false codes. They get triggered when something else is out of whack.

The map and the tps uses the same 5 volt ref wire. I would guess the problem would be somehow with the gray wire.

Thanks for the vote of confidence CD. I've replaced some of the vacuum lines on the engine, but really need to do the rest. I can't remember if I did the hose to the MAP sensor or not. I'll find out this weekend.

rksnc, thanks for the pointer. I hadn't thought about the electrical side at all. - might be a short.
Man it's good to have help. Thanks guys.

An update here:
Everybody gets a gold star.
The vacuum line to the MAP sensor had a little split inside one end of the hose. I replaced the hose, cleared the codes and fired it up. The code for the MAP sensor didn't come back.
The TPS code did. I got a digital multi-meter and found that the voltage on the gray wire was .43, should be 5 volts.
rksnc's post about the common wire got me to looking at the wiring diagrams in my manual.
So, I'm hoping that the problem is with the wire and not the powertrain control module. Since I'm getting no code on the MAP, I'm thinking the problem is occurring in the wire somewhere between the two sensors. Geez I hate hunting down shorts.

Hi Kings
If it's an open, i use a multimeter.
a tip for a short, blown fuse, is to use a lamp in place of the fuse. when the lamp goes out, you've found the fault, and the wires are protected by the lamp. I've used running lamps (low current) up to headlights (high current)
But I hate climbing all over a vehicle to try to find it too..
Good Luck

I'm thinking since there is a common wire between the TPS and MAP sensor, and I'm not getting a code on the MAP, that the fault is in close proximity in the wiring to the two sensors. I thiiink the common wire is in series from the TPS to MAP to PCM. rksnc pretty much pegged this problem in one post. I haven't peeled the smurf tube off the bundle of wires yet to look for a break. The wires to the TPS connector are pretty short and seem to be under stress when the connector is plugged to the sensor, so the problem could be right at the A** end of the connector.
Most of what I know about electricity is it bites your ass if the breaker isn't open. I don't know if a partially broken wire will drop voltage from 5V to .43, but hope springs eternal.

Could you possibly have a bad new part? -it's been known to happen, that's what warrantees are for.
Do you have the old one? Could the old one be electrically installed to re-check the fault?
Be suspicious of all connectors. They're better now, but usually a wire doesn't good bad, barring mechanical damage, it's a connector.

Yeah, actually it's entirely possible the new sensor is bad. I don't have the old TPS anymore. But I do have information on how to test the TPS, which I need to do. Initially all I checked was the reference voltage from the PCM, which was way low.

Last update:
Finally had time to get back into the van and tinker again. Retested the tps. Realized I hadn't probed it right the last time. The .43 volt reading I had gotten was the signal wire, not the reference voltage wire. .43 is a little low. Retested the reference wire an found I had 5 volts, so it wasn't the PCM. Tested the signal wire and got 0 volts this time. Decided it was the TPS that had kicked the bucket. Got a new one. Installed, cleared the codes, fire up and runs just fine.
Thanks for the input guys.
(now if I can just find the receipt for the dead TPS...)