integra sir-g ???? what the?

just found out that my engine isnt a first gen gsr but a "jdm integra sir-g" (b18c)what the hec does any one know what hp this motor is rated as???

yea i believe its 180

Yeah it's 180hp. They don't have a GS-R (b18c1) in Japan, it's just called the Integra SiR-G (b18c) instead.

yeap its a 180 alrite, mine is the same, and when i bought it at the time, the only thing that was done to the car was a typ r flywheel and a exedy stage1 clutch, and it was pulling 139lb/ft of torque on the dyno, i was told that it is the same as the type r, that be amazing if its true!

138tq? That doesn't seem right at all. Not even the ITR engine has that much torque at the crank, let alone at the wheels. There has to be some kind of internal work done with that engine that you don't know about, no way that a stock engine is putting out that kind of power.

plugs and leads, type r exhaust which i dont think they would make any different, but someone said the sir does produce better low end than the type r as the intake differences

thats why i keep on eatin typies!! thanks guys does any one know how high it can rev im gonna be doin an ecu upgrade soon

Take it to a dyno and see where it makes power. There's a reason for the rev limiter, you won't make power (or at least much) by reving it more. And what do you mean ECU upgrade?

I wouldn't rev it higher than 8400 really, thats stock Type R rev but they can rev higher due to the Rods and crank are stronger for higher revs, but the GSR and non vtec engines RODs aint as strong and they can get damage easier if you bring up the rev limiter too high, thats why i have a new block and head ordered with mugen internals! gonna be using a mugen ECU with more advance ignition timing and rev out to 9700 which I would not rev up that high anyway!but i have seen someone driving at over 9k rev in a stock Type R with mugen ECU,that was in a vcd from hong kong showing off the stock type r!

CivicSpoon is right, take it to a dyno and get your fuel air adjust as well as re-setting your vtec cross over point either with a programming ECU chip or vafc, you will gain more horses and torque and a much smoother power!

I dont really see how u keep "eatin typies" tho ... ur still down 15hp

maybe he meant at take off and short distances, narrow and twisty roads are best for GSR to go against Type R, the low end are much better on the GSR than the Type R!

I'm setting up for the best of both, hopefully works!

maybe he meant at take off and short distances, narrow and twisty roads are best for GSR to go against Type R, the low end are much better on the GSR than the Type R!

I'm setting up for the best of both, hopefully works!



A type R would rape a gs-r in the twisties, thats what its built for.

:iagree:

i dont know then, i was told that the difference in the intake manifold for the gsr, it has better power at the low end, many people told me that!

the type r's suspension is so much better than a gsr's

ya a typies suspension is toooo tight for a gsr but in my case al im doing is draging. and ive takin three out so far. and as for my ecu upgrade im running it off of a untouched p28 ecu gonna get a chipped ecu. so its either my motor has internals i dont know about or my friends cars arent running properly. ???

the type-r motor compared to a gs-r are similar in alot of ways but the type-r has alot of minor upgrades that the gs-r doesnt have that makes it produce roughly 20 more HP like slightly different cams valves, springs/retainers, piston rings and the type-r 4-1 header compared to the gs-r 4-2-1 header, PLUS the LSD that the GS-r doesnt have which makes alot of difference on take offs also the type-r does have much better suspension setup than the gs-r like someone said type-r are slightly lowered, much better antisway bars and the type-r is also lighter than gs-r... gs-r does have better low end power but the type-r should still smoke the gs-rs in turns and drag someone with a gs-r beating a type-r either something about the gs-r that the driver doesnt know about making it faster than it really is(like internals) or the type-r driver sucks ass at shifting(if thats the case, then he or even she doesnt deserve to be driving the type-r)

very detail!!! :)

I've upgraded mine in everyways, engine, exhausts(keeping 4-2-1 stainless), brakes, suspensions and transmission!

heh heh :)

hmmmmmmmmmmmm

as for the gsr having better bottom end ... WRONG !! the jdm sir-g motor has higher compressions pistons , same as the U.S type R , giving it the same cr , and around the same peak torque #'s ... however the type R hits about 120 ft of tq at about 3 thousand rpm's , and it has lsd , shorter geared tranny and its lighter than the gsr ... no way in hell should a gsr or sir-g be beating a type r in relatively stock form ... not down low , up top , and espeacially not thru the twisties !!

oh yeah , keng why did you put a type R sticker on your car ?? its still not a type r !! after reading your set up , your car is NOT ANYTHING CLOSE to a type R !! all the OBX and tenzo R bs that you have doesnt compare to authentic type R parts ... you dont even have the type R body kit ... i doubt its a 5 lug conversion either ...show me a pic of your engine bay , do you have the valve cover ?? you still need a light weight hatch and cabon fiber peices for the inside of your car ... a gsr is tight for what it is ... dont try to make it something that it isnt ...

I haven't got the engine done fully at the time I got the stickers, been working on it for the last 10 days, got the car back on the road this afternoon with Mugen internals and ECU, Skunk2 CAMs, but I'm still keeping the SIR Intake, I will put it on a dyno with the SIR intake and also try with the Type R intake next week and see which one is better to have!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/226792260Kpm_Speedometer.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/226792engine2.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/226792DVD.jpg

I got most the Carbon Fiber, got all of them throught the Center, trying to get the door handles and air vents on the sides!

got a 260KPH Dash though, JDM Type R dont have that, USDM ones are different again!

with the Mugen internals and a spoon lsd only parts I need to get now is the final drive!

I couldnt be bother changing the hatch, why I dont know, and the Type R bodykit is optional anyway, they come standard with front lip and rear spoiler

I have a dyno sheet of my car pulling 133ft/lb before I put in the Mugen Internals, also another dyno before christmas pulling 137.6ft/lb before I changed the exhaust system! I lost torque after putting on the stainless steel exhaust

the 5 lugs are on the 98 onward JDM Type R but not on the JDM Type R before that year

the reason why i didnt buy a Type R is because I was gonna rebuilt the engine with Mugen Internals anyway so why bother pay more than double the price for a Type R when there is only the difference in 40kg in the weight, lose most of that weight easily!and spend the money on the engine and better suspension and brakes upgrade which i may do anyway with a Type R, so I pretty much be doing the same i do with this SIR, thats why i bought this car!

good man sounds like a plan to me. isnt that a gs-r throtle body????

yea, I'm using this first on the dyno and have it tune, then I use the type r one and tune it again to see which gives the best result, I want to try the SIR intake because it should gives better performance if its set right by the design of it! no harm trying it!

Let us know the results!

all type R's are 5 lug ... and no us type r has a 260kph gauge cluster ... we go by mph here in the states ... and EVERY type R has the body kit ... i will believe your tq #'s when i see them ... cause for some reason your gsr puts down more tq with stock internals than any other gsr ever built ... kinda funny

here's the dyno I got in March just gone, with a full stainless system on from header!

can't find the sheet I got before christmas, it might show up itselfs at some stage, almost no different in horse power compare to stock!

I dont really care about the horse power, no use for huge HP in this country! just want more torque!

have done 0-100kph using Apexi RSM to take the time reading, but I dont have the G-sensor yet, wheel spin at first gear, got 6.67 secs, trying to do it with a good take off!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/226792dyno.jpg

our 95 Type R we bought in from Japan has only 4 lugs, but the 98 ones has 5 lugs, I have a VCD from Hong Kong that shows off the 98 on Type R also mention that they use 5 lugs on that year onward!

I know the USDM Type R has Mph and they dont have the yellow needle either! but I dont know what color they lights up, but the one I got is original Type R speedo that reads out to 260kph, which doesn't comes in the JDM models!

and when you say every Type R has body kit, you mean by full kit inclding side skirts and rear extension or just front lip and rear spoiler?
and is it USDM or JDM you on about?

we had many Type Rs in and out here for the pass few years, only one came with full kit, all the rest are only front lip and rear spoiler only, direct from Japan, Euro version of them were never sold here untill 98, even so only some of them on the road has the full kit, and Honda over here saids that they were optional also! must be a difference between the States and Europe, not sure about your JDM imported Rs over there!

P.S. I'm not sure if they got the reading right, the last time I got the dyno done was 176bhp and 137.6ft/lb, now its 181.4hp and 133.4ft/lb, only 5bhp the difference and 4.2ft/lb lost in torque, I'm getting another dyno done hopefully next week(if my ECU turns up)! then use the Type R intake manifold the day after for another dyno! ofcos we get it tune right for each manifold!

Ummm... the hp reading you're talking about is the hp at the flywheel, not at the wheels. That is a big difference when you're talking about hp. It makes more sense now when you're making that much hp and tq at the flywheel than at the wheels; it becomes believable. And yes the '96-'97 ITR's did infact have 4-lugs.

atleast I didnt lie :)

we messure with flywheel here, correction from flywheel to wheels!

even honda uses the flywheel HP messurement!

Integra Type R's are 197bhp at the flywheel also! and are 138ft/lb of torque at the flywheel! so I didnt do too bad on torque! it was nearly the same after a complete rebuilt with a tweak of timing and minor upgrade but lost torguq after exhaust upgrade!

also a 95 type r is 197bhp and 138ft/lb in 95 but after 10 years on the road with the increase of mileage and depends how it was looked after, it wont be 197bhp and 138ft/lb today, unless if the car has been really well looked after to mentain the condition like it used to be, we had a dyno day with 7 stock ITR's, I went along after the rebuilt with a Type R flywheel and exedey stage 1 clutch installed with a few other bits, nothing major and thats when I got the 137.6ft/lb and 176bhp, but one ITR got 174.8bhp and 134.7ft/lb which was a 96 but suprisingly a 95 ITR was 189bhp and 136ft/lb the best one was 196bhp and 138ft/lb bang on! all were stock ITR's, these are reading from the flywheel

oh cr*p, I was suppose to find out what color the wire is for you about the fuel line! I forgot.

mind wait for a while and I take a look while I pull out the ECU? save me pulling out the panels all the time! if you still need to know!

i dont know then, i was told that the difference in the intake manifold for the gsr, it has better power at the low end, many people told me that!
and many people told me the LS has better low end than the GS-R...
Who cares what people said. Numbers don't lie.

isn't thats wht I'm gonna do a dyno with the GS-R intake as well as a dyno with the Type R intake to see which is better

No No N The Fuel Wire Was For Me Its Okay Though Aleady Took Care Of That. Thanks. I Think Crip Is Tryin To Hate On You.

and to rims enhance proformence or what cause i slapped some 16*7 on and it feels like my handling and brakin feels like crap

thats ur tires probably... i dont think a 1 inch bigger rims would affect that handling/braking... maybe the acceleration a little bit

mmmmmmm mayb i got a 50 ,215 offset what do you think. i shold go with 40,205s huh?

205/45/16R should be ok, get some decent brand though :)

checked it out today just gonna get the 205/40/16r
kuhmo are those good or trash

I dont really know that make, personally I go for Dunlop or Yokohama, Continential for track!


by the way, I'm just wondering is the GS-R with the 1st Gen B18 Vtec engines OBD0 or OBDI, we dont have tem here! no LS or GS either, what are their differences?

what we do have are SiR, Si VTEC, they both 1.8 VTEC

then we have the ZX and ZXi both are 1.6 sohc D series non vtec engines(it actually says ZC on the block, but same as a D series!), one with dual carb and one with multi point injection! whats the point having them 2 really??

I've got Kumo's on my rims, they are nice. My friend had them for 2 years (when he did the H22a swap) and sold them to me (along with the rims of course) and I drove it all last summer with them. They have a little bit of thread left on them, but my friend doing burnouts and letting them wear down (because of bad toe) didn't help any. They definently grip though (just not on snow, learned that the hard way :D).


But check out www.tirerack.com (http://www.tirerack.com) and www.1010tires.com (http://www.1010tires.com) and read the reviews for different tires and do a search in the wheel/suspension sub forum.