Where To Buy a Long Block?

My 89 4.3 has 211,000 miles on it. It smokes on start up, the starter is going, and it's rustier than a boat anchor. Does any body know of a good place to get a cheap rebuilt long block in the NW Ohio area or a place than ships relatively inexpensively? I've decided that I didn't want to mess around with a used engine because of inherent problems with used things. Any help is appreciated.

You want to replace it because of that?

The smoke at start up is because of worn valve seals. Not really a big deal and not that hard to fix.

Starters are easily replaced.

211,000 really isn't a lot of miles for a 4.3L.

google it! that is probibly your best bet, or something like the yellow book or yahoo yellow book

This is not a sign of an engine needed to be replaced.

This is the sign of an engine that needs some maintanence done to it.

Valve seals are easy to replace.

Starter is easy to replace.

I can't get the heads off because the exhaust manafolds are rusted to the heads and the oil leak is between the passenger head and the block. The amount of smoke that comes out of this at startup is outrageus. It has taken 4 quarts of oil since November to keep it topped off, only about 1500 miles. I want this to be a reliable daily driver as well as an occassional powerful offroad vehical and I don't think this engine can take it. I forgot to mention that it doesn't have very good torque either. I want a new engine because everything on an engine this old is a pain to work on because of the rust and crud that has collected over the years. I have googled and the best price I've seen was $1000 plus about $300 to ship because they are in Washington state. Link http://shop.rebuiltengines.biz/chevy/position-gak_282vbl_3.html
Thanks

Sounds like it isn't a head gasket, it is a valve cover gasket needing replacing.

find a sb, if your putting the time and mony into a swap that you want for a "powerful off road and daily driver" a moderitly modified 350 will do nicly in there

The valve cover gasket is fine. Oil is coming from between the head and the block. I'd rather replace the engine now instead of waiting for it to crap out on me when I'm driving down the road. The engine doesn't instill confidance in me. I don't trust for long trips. I want a new engine half because it WILL need to be replaced at some time and half because it would make me feel better.

I thought about a 350 but I really don't NEED it. A 4.3 will drop right in easily and will allow it to handle better too. I have a, *cough*, Mustang, if I want to rip up the road. The 4.3 is quite powerful for what I want and gets decent mileage. One of the things I was hoping to accomplish by swapping the engine was to get the most MPG out of the blazer as I could, like with a cold air intake, low restriction exhaust, new o2 sensor, electric fan, etc. and be able to pass emisions if they start doing testing in my county.

Thanks for responding.

well if you put the 350 in, you would know what a real sports car felt like, :lol: jk, and you make sence when you say you dont need a 350, and you shouldnt need a long block, your accesories will transfer over, so why not a short block?

Short blocks are a bad idea. After replacing the old stuff that isn't good enough to transfer and the work that is involved getting it preped, it would be easier and cheaper to go with a long block.

jasper engines, advanced auto, gm crate motor(very expensive), i've been lookin around too.

I can tell you where not to get one. AutoZone. I made that mistake on my '82 Olds. They advertized the most new parts on their rebult motors, had the cheapest price, the best guarentee, and everything that moved was either re-ground or new. The problem was they HONEST TO PETE used old, used valve springs. I still have the proof sitting on my desk. One of the valve springs tested out at 30 pounds compression as compared to 80 pounds compression on a new one. The problem is, the only place this shows up is during emissions testing. Compression tests didn't show it, nor did leak-down tests. All I knew was that i could not pass the hydrocarbon test for 3 years after installing a fresh motor. I didn't stumble across the answer until I blew the head gasket and had to have the heads re-done. The problem is, the weak spring doesn't have enough strength to close the valve, and if it is an exhaust valve, you will get unburned fuel in the exhaust gas, which is what is known as hydrocarbons. After I replaced all 12 springs for $1.25 each, ($15.00 USD + tax, total) I called Autozone in Tennessee and complained. Their response was that they could not afford to raise the cost of their rebuilds to include new springs, and furthermore would continue to use old parts as long as they met spec. So where ever you go, be sure you're getting a good quality motor from somewhere you can get warranty service from if necessary.

Hay ya Properformance Engines are a good buy. 3 Year ,100,000. Mile warranty. Their number is 1-800-595-2513. I buy all my engines from them and have for over 6 years now. I have only had to warranty 1 engine in this time.

I thought about getting a short block but my heads are half of the problem. I would have to have them rebuilt anyhow. I'm not an experienced engine builder so I would prefer that all of the specifying and clearancing be done for me which just leaves the intake, oil pan, manifolds and such to be put on. I just don't trust myself with the internal workings of an engine that I need to be reliable on a daily basis. At least if an engine I buy breaks, there is a warranty, not the case if I do it myself.

Jasper's engine would be twice as much as the other place. The place I found looked decent and they had a 7 year 70,000 warranty which would be better for me because I put about 10,000 miles a year on my Blazer.

I will look into Properformance tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input.

I thought about getting a short block but my heads are half of the problem. I would have to have them rebuilt anyhow. I'm not an experienced engine builder so I would prefer that all of the specifying and clearancing be done for me which just leaves the intake, oil pan, manifolds and such to be put on. I just don't trust myself with the internal workings of an engine that I need to be reliable on a daily basis. At least if an engine I buy breaks, there is a warranty, not the case if I do it myself.

Jasper's engine would be twice as much as the other place. The place I found looked decent and they had a 7 year 70,000 warranty which would be better for me because I put about 10,000 miles a year on my Blazer.

I will look into Properformance tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input.

I agree completely, the best, fastest, and usally cheapest in the long run, is to go with a long block. Besides, the warranty is usually better too.

I tried to call propeformance that number must be a fax line or something because it just beeps at me. Are you sure about that number?

thanks

Go with a long block.There two to stay away from,Recon and Marshall.I have seen one of Recon's repairs to a cylinder head,a sleeve through one of the headbolt holes and it did cause a headgasket to blow one of their rebuilt 350 chevrolets.Jasper has the best warrenty and they do updates on the 4.3 engines.Basically, they do updates on the engine parts.

Soory about that, you are right that was wrong it is 1-888-595-2513.
Properformance Engines

They gave me a good quote but they say they are the ones who supply autozone, so if what was said earlier is true, they might not be the best engines, no offense. Thanks for number, I appreciate it.

Well they have never told me that. I am a shop owner and I have used their engines for about 8 years now. I have only replace one in all that time. I have had to repair a couple of rear main leaks and 1 engine with a bad lifter. They paid for the repair, parts and labor. I can't say just how many engines I have installed but I can say what repairs have been because there have been so few. I have had my shop now since 1990 and have been a mechanic for over thirty years. I don't even rebuild them now as I can give my customers a better job and warranty with Properfromance Engines.

They gave me a good quote but they say they are the ones who supply autozone, so if what was said earlier is true, they might not be the best engines, no offense. Thanks for number, I appreciate it.
The Engine that I bought from Autozone was purchased in 1990, and was "Rebuilt" in their rebuild center in Tennessee. They did a standard .060 oversized piston along with .020 undersized crank and cam. They told me that it was easier to cut and bore everything to this standard size regardless of wear, and order replacement bearings, pistons etc. to one size fits all type of thing than to keep a variety of sizes and parts on the shelf. I doubt if these guys were supplying engines to Autozone in 1990, but it really boils down to the integrity of the workers doing the rebuild. Sooner or later you'll have to bite the bullet, say a little prayer and go for it. Nothing is 100% but you can hedge your bet by sticking with a reputable firm that honors their warranty. According to what I've read on this thread, these guys do a decent job, I'd go for it if everything seemed good.

Some of the questions that I'd ask would be exactly what parts in the engine are new? things like bearings, lifters, pushrods, valves, valve springs, guides, pistons, Oil pump, even connecting rods should all be new. You'll probably get a reground crank and cam, along with resurfaced heads. But the more new parts you can get the better.

OH, and BTW, I always insisted on new Steel Timing Gears and chain, not the plastic coated crap that comes in a new engine. Don't listen to the BS about how the plastic stuff runs quieter.