Do It Yourself CAI <= Here it is!
wolfox
04-28-2005, 10:16 PM
This is not really a cold air intake in the truest sense of the word, but doing this mod will still net you a few extra horses. Surgery way performed on a '95 Blazer LS (LOADED - power everything!) with VIN "W" CPI 4.3 liter V-6 engine.
Most of the benefit will come at wide open throttle, but it will still enhance a few miles to the gallon out at cruise speeds. You *need* to match a cold air intake to your engine *after* you have gotten an aftermarket exhaust in the truck. Putting this together wastes time and effort if you do not have a cat-back system installed. I have had to bore out my catalyst on my last trip down to Florida, it was plugged and cooked badly from a pre-existing condition the previous owner had fixed. (The truck would not be running today if it was not addressed) Usually a fuel regulator or injector "nut kit"(that's the plastic fuel supply and return lines from the internal fuel "rail" inside the upper intake on VIN "W" '95 Blazers) on these CPI fuel injected engines will puke itself up and get to leaking something badly, dumping raw fuel in your upper intake and plenum. This of course enriches fuel, makes the truck run awful, dilutes your oil and plugs up the catalyst terribly. I will not go into the oddball nonsense it does to your oxygen sensor(s) on top of all of this. However, a Carsound performance catalyst was added to a mandrel bent, stainless steel exhaust system with a Flo-Pro 750 muffler under the belly of the truck. (It lost 65 pounds of steel in the process, the OEM muffler is huge, quiet, and power robbing!) But without further ado, I present the "Ghetto Cold Air Intake" which allegedly, is "impossible" to do with an engine of this type from this model year. It works, trust me:
First you need to get your Sawzall out, with a stout metal cutting blade. Go at the slowest pace as possible. The plastic the intake and airbox are made of is very tough. Going too fast will either loose you a finger when partially molten plastic grabs hold of the blade and tears the works out of your hands; or you make a mess of the plastic when the saw bounces out of the slot you are cutting. First, using the small, square breather hole in the airbox, use the right hand side of it as a guide to make your first cut. You want to cut inside the airbox hole to remove all of the plastic to the right of this hole, leaving merely the upper lip to act as a seal when you clip the box back together around your air filter. Make another cut, following just behind the lip of the seat and "skeletonize" the box by leaving only the left hand side of the airbox hole and the airbox material in place. This serves two purposes: 1) A heat shield on the side that faces the radiator so you are not sucking in heated underhood air. Heat bad - lower intake temps makes a naturally denser air flow which will "trick" the truck's computer into adding more fuel to the air mix. Denser, enriched fuel mix gives you more power out of the hole, and most certainly as you approach top end and wide-open-throttle. 2) You still have the left hand side to slip back into the airbox's retaining slot to keep it stable and it restores the geometry needed to plug your PCV air supply back into.
Next, remove the tank "bellows" sticking out of a hole in the rubber boot by your airbox. This is a resonant chamber, tuned to cancel out induction noise. They engineered this engine to run as silently as possible, like it was going to be parked on red velvet in a rich guy's house. Come on, it's a compact light-duty sport-utility with one of the largest and most powerful V-6's ever made by GM. Free up those ponies and treat it rough - it wants it, and just sucks it up! But anyway, once that is removed, you are going to need to plug it up with something to keep unfiltered air from entering the intake and your plenum. What works is using a baby food jar lid stuffed up into the hole, and then sealing it snug and tight with a stainless steel radiator hose band.
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/cai3.jpg
Further up, if you have removed the intake completely from the truck, you are going to find another resonator cavity that sits atop of the fan shroud. It is anchored through a rubber grommet and a barbed connector at the passenger side of the fan shroud. Pop the works up and pull it out. Get your Sawzall out again and get to work. Chop it as close as possible to the intake's main tube as possible. Remove all sharp edges when done with a rasp or file. Now don't get lazy here! This is going to leave a big, gaping hole in the side of your intake tubing. Wash and let air dry the entire assembly. It's clean when water does not bead, but streak off of the hard plastic and wants to spread on it's surface. Once air dried, layer on duct tape. Yep, duct tape here is being used for EXACTLY what it was made for. Cut strips long enough to go around the intake, overlapping at first one side of the hole by 2 inches. Overlap the tape in strips that covers half of the last piece of tape you put down. Keep doing this until you are 2" away from the other side of that gaping hole. Once that is done, repeat with Aluminum duct tape. This is not only more abrasion resistant, because one part will touch the top of the fan shroud; but adds an extra layer of protection, heat shielding, and makes it airtight under vacuum.
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/cai2.jpg
You are now ready to secure your new, Ghettoized cold air intake into place. Before you do that though, these engines are prone to having a mild idle problem caused by a slightly plugged Idle Air Control Valve. These trucks idle like shit when that gets all goofed up with crud that collects over time. Get yourself a can of throttle body cleaner (cheap, under $2 no matter where you go - make sure you use one with a chlorinated solvent!) and a replacement IAC valve gasket. I went with a top shelf Felpro rubber and steel seal. Knock your IAC off with a #15 Torx wrench and a tap with a screwdriver after removing the servo motor's control wire. Scrub the seal area on the engine upper intake and the valve's body with seal remover and a wire brush, but do not physically touch the tip of the valve's pintle. (The round part that looks like a needle hat goes into the valve's housing on the upper plenum) Once it's clean, flush with the carb and intake cleaner and let air dry. Spray the area where it goes with a healthy dose of the carb/intake cleaner too and scrub it with a small, soft children's toothbrush. Douse it again when done scrubbing to flush the brown and black crud you knock off out of the valve seat. Stick the works back together with your Torx wrench again, being mindful to install the gasket with the striped side facing out. (Towards the IAC valve itself) Then push the throttle open with your thumb on the cam that connects to the accelerator cable and flush the interior of the valve body out and hit both sides of the butterfly valve. Once that is all clean, put your Cold air intake into place, mindful to connect your Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT). Put the tube from your PCV breather back into the hole just behind the airbox, and seat that puppy back into place. Tighten the stainless band until snug, not tight. Tight will get the rubber boot of the intake split and then where will you be? That's right, waiting for two week until your GM/AC-Delco replacement arrives at your local parts counter or worse - you swallowed a shitload of sand and dust and ruined your engine. But this is what it looks like when it's back in place:
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/cai1.jpg
Reset your computer and wait for the last of the carb/intake cleaner to evaporate out of your intake bore. Resetting the computer involves removing the negative battery terminal from it's post, then go inside the truck to the driver's side fuse panel. Pop out your T/L-CTSY, RDO, ECM-BATT and ECM-IGN fuses. Smoke a cigarette, flirt with the cute blond next door - make a sandwich. This is going to take a little bit. After 10 minutes, pop your fuses back in and then reconnect your battery terminal. Now, she is going to be really hard to start. Your intake's going to be full of solvent vapor, not air. It's going to have to suck out the bad stuff to make with the good stuff. I got a false start, where she cranked and kicked over, but then sputtered and died. Waiting for the fuel pump to prime again, I then cranked and she came right to life. She idled roughly as she burned off the rest of the vapor, but when the clean air hit, she idled just fine. Hold the RPMs at a fast idle for 30 seconds (1500 RPM) then let her go. Note the nice black/gray cloud coming out of your exhaust - that's the last of the solvent burning off. She will clear up and idle fine on her own in just a minute. Once that is done, put her into gear (drive) but hold your foot on the brake. Do not touch the gas, just let her idle for 2 minutes to let the computer figure out how to idle with a free breathing IAC valve and the denser air mixture you are getting from the cold air intake. Then take her for a spin! Mix your travels a little. I went for a lazy, winding romp down the highway to Lake Weddington to a little patch of off-road goodness there that leads to the outdoor shooting gallery. (Sorry guys, it is closed at this time) Popping her into 4-wheel high, I took her for some fun in the rocks and gravel - let me tell you, there is a noticeable amount of perkiness at low engine speeds when you are crawling through the rocks with the intake modded out like this. Shaking the dirt off, I took her for a spirited jaunt back down the highway - without the resonators and the filter being exposed to suck up any available cold air under the hood, she ROARS. Damn near spun the wheels all through second gear on dry, level pavement. I will follow up in a month's time with whether or not it is saving me gas, but she has tons more power with this modification under the hood and Flow-Pro 750 single baffles under her ass for the exhaust. This project is complete, and looking *smart*.
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/blazer5.jpg
Most of the benefit will come at wide open throttle, but it will still enhance a few miles to the gallon out at cruise speeds. You *need* to match a cold air intake to your engine *after* you have gotten an aftermarket exhaust in the truck. Putting this together wastes time and effort if you do not have a cat-back system installed. I have had to bore out my catalyst on my last trip down to Florida, it was plugged and cooked badly from a pre-existing condition the previous owner had fixed. (The truck would not be running today if it was not addressed) Usually a fuel regulator or injector "nut kit"(that's the plastic fuel supply and return lines from the internal fuel "rail" inside the upper intake on VIN "W" '95 Blazers) on these CPI fuel injected engines will puke itself up and get to leaking something badly, dumping raw fuel in your upper intake and plenum. This of course enriches fuel, makes the truck run awful, dilutes your oil and plugs up the catalyst terribly. I will not go into the oddball nonsense it does to your oxygen sensor(s) on top of all of this. However, a Carsound performance catalyst was added to a mandrel bent, stainless steel exhaust system with a Flo-Pro 750 muffler under the belly of the truck. (It lost 65 pounds of steel in the process, the OEM muffler is huge, quiet, and power robbing!) But without further ado, I present the "Ghetto Cold Air Intake" which allegedly, is "impossible" to do with an engine of this type from this model year. It works, trust me:
First you need to get your Sawzall out, with a stout metal cutting blade. Go at the slowest pace as possible. The plastic the intake and airbox are made of is very tough. Going too fast will either loose you a finger when partially molten plastic grabs hold of the blade and tears the works out of your hands; or you make a mess of the plastic when the saw bounces out of the slot you are cutting. First, using the small, square breather hole in the airbox, use the right hand side of it as a guide to make your first cut. You want to cut inside the airbox hole to remove all of the plastic to the right of this hole, leaving merely the upper lip to act as a seal when you clip the box back together around your air filter. Make another cut, following just behind the lip of the seat and "skeletonize" the box by leaving only the left hand side of the airbox hole and the airbox material in place. This serves two purposes: 1) A heat shield on the side that faces the radiator so you are not sucking in heated underhood air. Heat bad - lower intake temps makes a naturally denser air flow which will "trick" the truck's computer into adding more fuel to the air mix. Denser, enriched fuel mix gives you more power out of the hole, and most certainly as you approach top end and wide-open-throttle. 2) You still have the left hand side to slip back into the airbox's retaining slot to keep it stable and it restores the geometry needed to plug your PCV air supply back into.
Next, remove the tank "bellows" sticking out of a hole in the rubber boot by your airbox. This is a resonant chamber, tuned to cancel out induction noise. They engineered this engine to run as silently as possible, like it was going to be parked on red velvet in a rich guy's house. Come on, it's a compact light-duty sport-utility with one of the largest and most powerful V-6's ever made by GM. Free up those ponies and treat it rough - it wants it, and just sucks it up! But anyway, once that is removed, you are going to need to plug it up with something to keep unfiltered air from entering the intake and your plenum. What works is using a baby food jar lid stuffed up into the hole, and then sealing it snug and tight with a stainless steel radiator hose band.
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/cai3.jpg
Further up, if you have removed the intake completely from the truck, you are going to find another resonator cavity that sits atop of the fan shroud. It is anchored through a rubber grommet and a barbed connector at the passenger side of the fan shroud. Pop the works up and pull it out. Get your Sawzall out again and get to work. Chop it as close as possible to the intake's main tube as possible. Remove all sharp edges when done with a rasp or file. Now don't get lazy here! This is going to leave a big, gaping hole in the side of your intake tubing. Wash and let air dry the entire assembly. It's clean when water does not bead, but streak off of the hard plastic and wants to spread on it's surface. Once air dried, layer on duct tape. Yep, duct tape here is being used for EXACTLY what it was made for. Cut strips long enough to go around the intake, overlapping at first one side of the hole by 2 inches. Overlap the tape in strips that covers half of the last piece of tape you put down. Keep doing this until you are 2" away from the other side of that gaping hole. Once that is done, repeat with Aluminum duct tape. This is not only more abrasion resistant, because one part will touch the top of the fan shroud; but adds an extra layer of protection, heat shielding, and makes it airtight under vacuum.
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/cai2.jpg
You are now ready to secure your new, Ghettoized cold air intake into place. Before you do that though, these engines are prone to having a mild idle problem caused by a slightly plugged Idle Air Control Valve. These trucks idle like shit when that gets all goofed up with crud that collects over time. Get yourself a can of throttle body cleaner (cheap, under $2 no matter where you go - make sure you use one with a chlorinated solvent!) and a replacement IAC valve gasket. I went with a top shelf Felpro rubber and steel seal. Knock your IAC off with a #15 Torx wrench and a tap with a screwdriver after removing the servo motor's control wire. Scrub the seal area on the engine upper intake and the valve's body with seal remover and a wire brush, but do not physically touch the tip of the valve's pintle. (The round part that looks like a needle hat goes into the valve's housing on the upper plenum) Once it's clean, flush with the carb and intake cleaner and let air dry. Spray the area where it goes with a healthy dose of the carb/intake cleaner too and scrub it with a small, soft children's toothbrush. Douse it again when done scrubbing to flush the brown and black crud you knock off out of the valve seat. Stick the works back together with your Torx wrench again, being mindful to install the gasket with the striped side facing out. (Towards the IAC valve itself) Then push the throttle open with your thumb on the cam that connects to the accelerator cable and flush the interior of the valve body out and hit both sides of the butterfly valve. Once that is all clean, put your Cold air intake into place, mindful to connect your Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT). Put the tube from your PCV breather back into the hole just behind the airbox, and seat that puppy back into place. Tighten the stainless band until snug, not tight. Tight will get the rubber boot of the intake split and then where will you be? That's right, waiting for two week until your GM/AC-Delco replacement arrives at your local parts counter or worse - you swallowed a shitload of sand and dust and ruined your engine. But this is what it looks like when it's back in place:
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/cai1.jpg
Reset your computer and wait for the last of the carb/intake cleaner to evaporate out of your intake bore. Resetting the computer involves removing the negative battery terminal from it's post, then go inside the truck to the driver's side fuse panel. Pop out your T/L-CTSY, RDO, ECM-BATT and ECM-IGN fuses. Smoke a cigarette, flirt with the cute blond next door - make a sandwich. This is going to take a little bit. After 10 minutes, pop your fuses back in and then reconnect your battery terminal. Now, she is going to be really hard to start. Your intake's going to be full of solvent vapor, not air. It's going to have to suck out the bad stuff to make with the good stuff. I got a false start, where she cranked and kicked over, but then sputtered and died. Waiting for the fuel pump to prime again, I then cranked and she came right to life. She idled roughly as she burned off the rest of the vapor, but when the clean air hit, she idled just fine. Hold the RPMs at a fast idle for 30 seconds (1500 RPM) then let her go. Note the nice black/gray cloud coming out of your exhaust - that's the last of the solvent burning off. She will clear up and idle fine on her own in just a minute. Once that is done, put her into gear (drive) but hold your foot on the brake. Do not touch the gas, just let her idle for 2 minutes to let the computer figure out how to idle with a free breathing IAC valve and the denser air mixture you are getting from the cold air intake. Then take her for a spin! Mix your travels a little. I went for a lazy, winding romp down the highway to Lake Weddington to a little patch of off-road goodness there that leads to the outdoor shooting gallery. (Sorry guys, it is closed at this time) Popping her into 4-wheel high, I took her for some fun in the rocks and gravel - let me tell you, there is a noticeable amount of perkiness at low engine speeds when you are crawling through the rocks with the intake modded out like this. Shaking the dirt off, I took her for a spirited jaunt back down the highway - without the resonators and the filter being exposed to suck up any available cold air under the hood, she ROARS. Damn near spun the wheels all through second gear on dry, level pavement. I will follow up in a month's time with whether or not it is saving me gas, but she has tons more power with this modification under the hood and Flow-Pro 750 single baffles under her ass for the exhaust. This project is complete, and looking *smart*.
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/blazer5.jpg
BlazerLT
04-28-2005, 11:04 PM
Nice job.
Just a couple things for people reading this article.
1.) Don't tap your IAC valve with anything. It is not made to take any sort of shock at all. It should pull out without any force. No harm will come from touching the pintle portion of the valve. Make sure from tip to flange the pintle is extended 1.10 inches (28mm).
2.) Clean the Throttle body blade while you have the intake off.
3.) You can use PCV tubing instead of cutting off the resonator to replace the tubing between the intake clamp assembly and the air filter.
Enjoy this, it does help. Just don't run through huge puddles or you could risk injesting water into the engine.
Just a couple things for people reading this article.
1.) Don't tap your IAC valve with anything. It is not made to take any sort of shock at all. It should pull out without any force. No harm will come from touching the pintle portion of the valve. Make sure from tip to flange the pintle is extended 1.10 inches (28mm).
2.) Clean the Throttle body blade while you have the intake off.
3.) You can use PCV tubing instead of cutting off the resonator to replace the tubing between the intake clamp assembly and the air filter.
Enjoy this, it does help. Just don't run through huge puddles or you could risk injesting water into the engine.
s10blazerman4x4
04-28-2005, 11:04 PM
thats crazy. lol . i had somewhat the same thing with the91 when i put the open air intake on and ran for 2 months with only a cat under there. Roard like hell back to norm now
wolfox
04-28-2005, 11:18 PM
Too true about the valve there 'LT. The paper gasket it was set with from the factory has seized to the intake. Note I said a tap with a screwdriver. The plastic handle side, and it was *very* gentle. I could not for the life of me just pluck it off for some reason. But when she came off, clean-up was easy. Just a few bits of crud and gunk that washed immediately away after a brushing out with the kiddie-sized toothbrush.
I am assuming that when you say throttle blade, you mean the "butterfly" that the throttle cable and cruise control attaches to?
And most certainly, I am going to look into a PVC replacement. I can drill a hole and bung the PVC breather back into it without a hitch. This is a basic, "Work with what you got" mod. ;) Thanks for you patience as I was waiting for a clear spot in the weather and time away from the office to compile the photos and retrace my steps from a few weeks back. Oh, standard disclaimer warrants repeating here:
I am not responsible for any damage as a result of following the above article. You undertake such a project at your own risk of life, limb, wallet and marshmallows. No dark chocolate peanut M&M's were harmed in the filming of this movie. If you are confused as to where to start when changing your oil, move on, this project is not for you. And above all, money, damaged engines and frustration can eat you alive on this if you get one thing wrong. Air filtration is an *essential* part of maintaining a servicable, long-lived engine. A leak *anywhere* behind the filter can ruin you pretty quick. Be confident in your skills before you tackle this. And - that's that.
Blaze on!
I am assuming that when you say throttle blade, you mean the "butterfly" that the throttle cable and cruise control attaches to?
And most certainly, I am going to look into a PVC replacement. I can drill a hole and bung the PVC breather back into it without a hitch. This is a basic, "Work with what you got" mod. ;) Thanks for you patience as I was waiting for a clear spot in the weather and time away from the office to compile the photos and retrace my steps from a few weeks back. Oh, standard disclaimer warrants repeating here:
I am not responsible for any damage as a result of following the above article. You undertake such a project at your own risk of life, limb, wallet and marshmallows. No dark chocolate peanut M&M's were harmed in the filming of this movie. If you are confused as to where to start when changing your oil, move on, this project is not for you. And above all, money, damaged engines and frustration can eat you alive on this if you get one thing wrong. Air filtration is an *essential* part of maintaining a servicable, long-lived engine. A leak *anywhere* behind the filter can ruin you pretty quick. Be confident in your skills before you tackle this. And - that's that.
Blaze on!
Sen Sen
04-28-2005, 11:28 PM
Cheapest mod ever!!
good post, Drilling holes into the airbox works as well!
good post, Drilling holes into the airbox works as well!
rlith
04-29-2005, 06:40 AM
I did one too..... This is a cut and paste from a previous thread. Not shown is the heat shield I made (ABS plastic)
Well, there are a few CPI CAI how-to's out there, figured I'd throw my hat in to the ring..
NOTE: I'm still not done with the heat shield but I will explain how it's done.
Parts Needed:
24" of 3" id exaust pipe ($15.00)
3" id Coupler
K&N RF-1016 Cone filter (10 degree flange @ 3-1/2" ID ($40.00)
Bracket
Oil Breather Filter (APC, EDLEBROCK,SPECTRE, etc...)
Orginal mating boot with the IAT Sensor
Optional Primer, Paint, Enamel Clear, etc..
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/inparts.jpg
The pipe you see was bought and bent at meinikie for $15.00 It's bent @ 35 degree angles
I primed, painted, and clear coated the pipe just to make it nice...
Heatshield:
For the heat shield, I simply took a heavy piece of card-board and cut it to shape. After getting the edges straight, I covered in about a 1/4" worth of rubber undercoating spray.
Primered:
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/inprimer.jpg
First pull all of your existing air intake plastic off of the truck. Disconnect the IAT Sensor.
Remove front boot with the IAT sensor and set aside. Store or throw out rest of your system.
Pull the hose running from your driver's side pcv hole and push the oil breather filter into it
The reason for the coupler is that the pipe is 3" and the filter is 3-1/2 so I needed something to fill some of the space. The coupler did this well. Simply slide the couple onto the filter side of the pipe, slide the filter over this and tighten the included clamp. Connect the boot to the other end.
You will notice in the following pics that I notched the top of the fan shroud because it sits nicer that way. Also you will notice from the above parts pics that there is a stud mounted on the end of the filter... This makes a good bracket mounting point. You can't see the bracket I made, but it holds in place nicely,
Here is the final install.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/intake1.jpg
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/intake2.jpg
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/intake3.jpg
Well, there are a few CPI CAI how-to's out there, figured I'd throw my hat in to the ring..
NOTE: I'm still not done with the heat shield but I will explain how it's done.
Parts Needed:
24" of 3" id exaust pipe ($15.00)
3" id Coupler
K&N RF-1016 Cone filter (10 degree flange @ 3-1/2" ID ($40.00)
Bracket
Oil Breather Filter (APC, EDLEBROCK,SPECTRE, etc...)
Orginal mating boot with the IAT Sensor
Optional Primer, Paint, Enamel Clear, etc..
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/inparts.jpg
The pipe you see was bought and bent at meinikie for $15.00 It's bent @ 35 degree angles
I primed, painted, and clear coated the pipe just to make it nice...
Heatshield:
For the heat shield, I simply took a heavy piece of card-board and cut it to shape. After getting the edges straight, I covered in about a 1/4" worth of rubber undercoating spray.
Primered:
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/inprimer.jpg
First pull all of your existing air intake plastic off of the truck. Disconnect the IAT Sensor.
Remove front boot with the IAT sensor and set aside. Store or throw out rest of your system.
Pull the hose running from your driver's side pcv hole and push the oil breather filter into it
The reason for the coupler is that the pipe is 3" and the filter is 3-1/2 so I needed something to fill some of the space. The coupler did this well. Simply slide the couple onto the filter side of the pipe, slide the filter over this and tighten the included clamp. Connect the boot to the other end.
You will notice in the following pics that I notched the top of the fan shroud because it sits nicer that way. Also you will notice from the above parts pics that there is a stud mounted on the end of the filter... This makes a good bracket mounting point. You can't see the bracket I made, but it holds in place nicely,
Here is the final install.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/intake1.jpg
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/intake2.jpg
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/intake/intake3.jpg
DINO55
04-29-2005, 07:39 AM
Nice Job Rilth...
blazer94
04-29-2005, 07:57 AM
Heatshield:
For the heat shield, I simply took a heavy piece of card-board and cut it to shape. After getting the edges straight, I covered in about a 1/4" worth of rubber undercoating spray.
above parts pics that there is a stud mounted on the end of the filter... This makes a good bracket mounting point. You can't see the bracket I made, but it holds in place nicely,
great mod..makes my removal of the baffle seem cheap... rlith, couple of questions, if you don't mind...
heatshield, did you mount that on the rad. side? And for the mounting stud at the end of the filter, could you be a little more specific? did you fab a bracket? On my 94 there are 2 mounting screws for the top of the OEM box, nothing for the bottom, and I'd imagine that there's gotta be an easier way to secure that sucker.
Great work, thanks for the input.
For the heat shield, I simply took a heavy piece of card-board and cut it to shape. After getting the edges straight, I covered in about a 1/4" worth of rubber undercoating spray.
above parts pics that there is a stud mounted on the end of the filter... This makes a good bracket mounting point. You can't see the bracket I made, but it holds in place nicely,
great mod..makes my removal of the baffle seem cheap... rlith, couple of questions, if you don't mind...
heatshield, did you mount that on the rad. side? And for the mounting stud at the end of the filter, could you be a little more specific? did you fab a bracket? On my 94 there are 2 mounting screws for the top of the OEM box, nothing for the bottom, and I'd imagine that there's gotta be an easier way to secure that sucker.
Great work, thanks for the input.
metallica21156
04-29-2005, 08:31 AM
where did you get the bends for the pipe. right now i have the stock intake tubing, the first hole pluged up and a ITG racing cone filter. roars pretty well with a flowmaster 40. i'm looking into either replacing the entire intake pipe or just cut the baffle off the fan.
wolfox
04-29-2005, 11:25 AM
Hey, Rlith - can I steal your idea there? I was thinking of going with stainless or aluminized exhaust tubing too with a cone filter - however I am not currently impressed with many of the choices in aftermarket air filters in a cone configuration. Might have to see if I can get tubing bent to mate with my IAT boot and the stock airbox. Keen project you have there!
rlith
04-29-2005, 07:24 PM
Heatshield:
For the heat shield, I simply took a heavy piece of card-board and cut it to shape. After getting the edges straight, I covered in about a 1/4" worth of rubber undercoating spray.
above parts pics that there is a stud mounted on the end of the filter... This makes a good bracket mounting point. You can't see the bracket I made, but it holds in place nicely,
great mod..makes my removal of the baffle seem cheap... rlith, couple of questions, if you don't mind...
heatshield, did you mount that on the rad. side? And for the mounting stud at the end of the filter, could you be a little more specific? did you fab a bracket? On my 94 there are 2 mounting screws for the top of the OEM box, nothing for the bottom, and I'd imagine that there's gotta be an easier way to secure that sucker.
Great work, thanks for the input.
For the heatshield, I originally had the carboard thing... While it worked well and was sturdy, I found a big sheet of ABS plastic and cut to shape, heated it up and bent it... Secured it with screws to the rad support and fender well... For the support of the intake itself, the filter has a bolt mount on it... I simply took a piece of metal stripping I had laying around, Bent to shape and bolted to the rad support.
For the heat shield, I simply took a heavy piece of card-board and cut it to shape. After getting the edges straight, I covered in about a 1/4" worth of rubber undercoating spray.
above parts pics that there is a stud mounted on the end of the filter... This makes a good bracket mounting point. You can't see the bracket I made, but it holds in place nicely,
great mod..makes my removal of the baffle seem cheap... rlith, couple of questions, if you don't mind...
heatshield, did you mount that on the rad. side? And for the mounting stud at the end of the filter, could you be a little more specific? did you fab a bracket? On my 94 there are 2 mounting screws for the top of the OEM box, nothing for the bottom, and I'd imagine that there's gotta be an easier way to secure that sucker.
Great work, thanks for the input.
For the heatshield, I originally had the carboard thing... While it worked well and was sturdy, I found a big sheet of ABS plastic and cut to shape, heated it up and bent it... Secured it with screws to the rad support and fender well... For the support of the intake itself, the filter has a bolt mount on it... I simply took a piece of metal stripping I had laying around, Bent to shape and bolted to the rad support.
blazer94
04-29-2005, 07:54 PM
Sweet! thanks!
muzzy1maniac
05-01-2005, 05:56 AM
You *need* to match a cold air intake to your engine *after* you have gotten an aftermarket exhaust in the truck. Putting this together wastes time and effort if you do not have a cat-back system installed. [/IMG]
Is this what you're talking about??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7971019765&category=33630&sspagename=WDVW
Is this what you're talking about??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7971019765&category=33630&sspagename=WDVW
BlazerLT
05-01-2005, 02:00 PM
Is this what you're talking about??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7971019765&category=33630&sspagename=WDVW
No, that is pretty well a stock exhaust.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7971019765&category=33630&sspagename=WDVW
No, that is pretty well a stock exhaust.
wolfox
05-01-2005, 02:04 PM
Yeah, pretty much, but that is incomplete. That is just a muffler and tailpipe assembly. Cat-back replacement/kit refers to replacing *everything* from your catalytic converter, back towards the rear of the truck. I am lucky in that there is a specialty shop that does excellent work here in town. I saved money by having them use a machine designed to bend the pipe without creasing the tubes, making them smooth bends. So I just payed to have them bend custom materials for me then chopped the old pipes out with a sawzall sabre saw. Then getting under the truck, dragged the parts up into place and clamped it all together with 2.5" muffler clamps. I got them to weld on the hangers in the right places to use the rubber mounts in the stock places under the truck. The muffler then bolts on with another clamp, then you have to jack up the rear of the truck. Feed the tailpipe up under the truck from the rear bumper and match the pipe up to the muffler. I cut the excess tailpipe hanging under the truck's bumper to have a stainless steel tip welded on to dress it up a little. All said and done, it took about 2 hours to perform, only cost $150 total with the return trip to the same shop to have the tip welded into place. A word on the muffler tip placement: Angle it off to one side, facing the outside. It it's straight back, you will create a cloud of exhaust that stays near the rear of the truck in it's vacuum when moving forward. You will suffocate yourself in this situation - so always angle it off to the side slightly. You'll stay safe that way. ;) Here is a photograph of the day after I got the exhaust in place, showing the slight angle to the side:
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/blazer1.jpg
Is this what you're talking about??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7971019765&category=33630&sspagename=WDVW
http://www.dreamchaos.org/~wolfox/blazer1.jpg
Is this what you're talking about??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7971019765&category=33630&sspagename=WDVW
BlazerBoyLT98
05-01-2005, 03:32 PM
Great post!!! More options for some summer projects! Watch I will do all kinds of cheap mods this summer and the damn thing will blow up, or get stolen, or struck by lighting! I have awfully luck, my last nake should be Murphy!
wolfox
05-05-2005, 11:07 AM
This just in:
I have my month's worth of fuel consumption data in, and it's a doozy...
Guys, I kid you not - mixed driving around the neighborhood, highway, and a little light offroading (cannot be avoided living in Arkansas - them back country dirt and gravel roads) I am belting out a considerable and very flat... *drumroll*
30 MPG average. Not bad for an 11 year old girl that's a litte overweight, huh? I show a dip to about 25 MPG at one point when I was running a bottle of SUV sized Techron through the tank (before an oil change) but when I weaned her back onto regular 87 pump gas, picked right back up and held steady at 30 MPG.
Guess what, BlazerLT was right, our trucks were meant to run on regular gas! :rofl:
EDIT: I will be taking an 800+ mile road trip not this, but next weekend with the beast, loaded with equipment, luggage and 3 friends. I will release more conclusive numbers with the nearly all 70 MPH highway trek. Other modification under the hood include:
AC-Delco Rapidfire #1 plugs (gapped .045)
Accel 8mm, dual spiral core "Do it yourself" spark wires.
OEM style Borg Warner Ignition coil pack (Soon to be upgraded to something else once I settle my mind on either an Accel or MSD product)
"High performance" Borg-Warner brass contact Cap and Rotor bug.
AC-Delco oil filter running Mobil-1 (SL) 5w-30 synthetic oil
Redline Dextron-III type H ATF synthetic in Tranny and Transfer Case.
Valvoline 70w-90 w/4 Oz. Friction modifier added to rear differential, straight Valvoline 70w-90 in front differential.
Mandrel bent aluminized cat-back exhaust with FloPro 750 muffler. (Chrome tip for looks - as stated earlier)
And because of the usual carting about of tools and equipment in the back, the tires are mildly over-inflated to 35 PSI cold.
It all seems to add up!
I have my month's worth of fuel consumption data in, and it's a doozy...
Guys, I kid you not - mixed driving around the neighborhood, highway, and a little light offroading (cannot be avoided living in Arkansas - them back country dirt and gravel roads) I am belting out a considerable and very flat... *drumroll*
30 MPG average. Not bad for an 11 year old girl that's a litte overweight, huh? I show a dip to about 25 MPG at one point when I was running a bottle of SUV sized Techron through the tank (before an oil change) but when I weaned her back onto regular 87 pump gas, picked right back up and held steady at 30 MPG.
Guess what, BlazerLT was right, our trucks were meant to run on regular gas! :rofl:
EDIT: I will be taking an 800+ mile road trip not this, but next weekend with the beast, loaded with equipment, luggage and 3 friends. I will release more conclusive numbers with the nearly all 70 MPH highway trek. Other modification under the hood include:
AC-Delco Rapidfire #1 plugs (gapped .045)
Accel 8mm, dual spiral core "Do it yourself" spark wires.
OEM style Borg Warner Ignition coil pack (Soon to be upgraded to something else once I settle my mind on either an Accel or MSD product)
"High performance" Borg-Warner brass contact Cap and Rotor bug.
AC-Delco oil filter running Mobil-1 (SL) 5w-30 synthetic oil
Redline Dextron-III type H ATF synthetic in Tranny and Transfer Case.
Valvoline 70w-90 w/4 Oz. Friction modifier added to rear differential, straight Valvoline 70w-90 in front differential.
Mandrel bent aluminized cat-back exhaust with FloPro 750 muffler. (Chrome tip for looks - as stated earlier)
And because of the usual carting about of tools and equipment in the back, the tires are mildly over-inflated to 35 PSI cold.
It all seems to add up!
blazee
05-05-2005, 11:21 AM
Method of computing:
Miles/gallons X 2 = :bs:
:lol:
Miles/gallons X 2 = :bs:
:lol:
BlazerLT
05-05-2005, 11:56 AM
This just in:
I have my month's worth of fuel consumption data in, and it's a doozy...
Guys, I kid you not - mixed driving around the neighborhood, highway, and a little light offroading (cannot be avoided living in Arkansas - them back country dirt and gravel roads) I am belting out a considerable and very flat... *drumroll*
30 MPG average. Not bad for an 11 year old girl that's a litte overweight, huh? I show a dip to about 25 MPG at one point when I was running a bottle of SUV sized Techron through the tank (before an oil change) but when I weaned her back onto regular 87 pump gas, picked right back up and held steady at 30 MPG.
Guess what, BlazerLT was right, our trucks were meant to run on regular gas! :rofl:
EDIT: I will be taking an 800+ mile road trip not this, but next weekend with the beast, loaded with equipment, luggage and 3 friends. I will release more conclusive numbers with the nearly all 70 MPH highway trek. Other modification under the hood include:
AC-Delco Rapidfire #1 plugs (gapped .045)
Accel 8mm, dual spiral core "Do it yourself" spark wires.
OEM style Borg Warner Ignition coil pack (Soon to be upgraded to something else once I settle my mind on either an Accel or MSD product)
"High performance" Borg-Warner brass contact Cap and Rotor bug.
AC-Delco oil filter running Mobil-1 (SL) 5w-30 synthetic oil
Redline Dextron-III type H ATF synthetic in Tranny and Transfer Case.
Valvoline 70w-90 w/4 Oz. Friction modifier added to rear differential, straight Valvoline 70w-90 in front differential.
Mandrel bent aluminized cat-back exhaust with FloPro 750 muffler. (Chrome tip for looks - as stated earlier)
And because of the usual carting about of tools and equipment in the back, the tires are mildly over-inflated to 35 PSI cold.
It all seems to add up!
How are you calculating these economy figures?
I have my month's worth of fuel consumption data in, and it's a doozy...
Guys, I kid you not - mixed driving around the neighborhood, highway, and a little light offroading (cannot be avoided living in Arkansas - them back country dirt and gravel roads) I am belting out a considerable and very flat... *drumroll*
30 MPG average. Not bad for an 11 year old girl that's a litte overweight, huh? I show a dip to about 25 MPG at one point when I was running a bottle of SUV sized Techron through the tank (before an oil change) but when I weaned her back onto regular 87 pump gas, picked right back up and held steady at 30 MPG.
Guess what, BlazerLT was right, our trucks were meant to run on regular gas! :rofl:
EDIT: I will be taking an 800+ mile road trip not this, but next weekend with the beast, loaded with equipment, luggage and 3 friends. I will release more conclusive numbers with the nearly all 70 MPH highway trek. Other modification under the hood include:
AC-Delco Rapidfire #1 plugs (gapped .045)
Accel 8mm, dual spiral core "Do it yourself" spark wires.
OEM style Borg Warner Ignition coil pack (Soon to be upgraded to something else once I settle my mind on either an Accel or MSD product)
"High performance" Borg-Warner brass contact Cap and Rotor bug.
AC-Delco oil filter running Mobil-1 (SL) 5w-30 synthetic oil
Redline Dextron-III type H ATF synthetic in Tranny and Transfer Case.
Valvoline 70w-90 w/4 Oz. Friction modifier added to rear differential, straight Valvoline 70w-90 in front differential.
Mandrel bent aluminized cat-back exhaust with FloPro 750 muffler. (Chrome tip for looks - as stated earlier)
And because of the usual carting about of tools and equipment in the back, the tires are mildly over-inflated to 35 PSI cold.
It all seems to add up!
How are you calculating these economy figures?
wolfox
05-05-2005, 12:09 PM
Simple really. Fill the tank. Zero the trip odometer. When tank drops to 1/4, fill up again, record the trip odometer readout before zeroing the odometer again. Record how many gallons to top off tank. (When the pump shuts off with a click in the handle)
Repeated over a one month period every time I fill up when I get to 1/4 tank. Always recording trip odometer and gallons to fill up on the pumps. Then, I just sum up all miles, all gallons, average them,( anything below a .5 gets rounded down, anything over .6 gets rounded up) then apply the final formula of miles/gallons.
I will have more definitive numbers after I return from my 800 mile roadtrip and see how much she eats. I am expecting a serious drop because I will be moving 700 pounds of passenger (two of my friends are REALLY big - the other guy could sit in the center console drink holder) and I guesstimate to be an additional 160 pounds of luggage at least. There is going to be a slow, sloping incline to climb to get out of the Ozark/river valley here so I think I will get more realistic numbers there over a broader range of terrain. Mostly, I have been sticking to town where there is mostly 45~50 MPH back-roads, flat as a board. Getting her up to speed on a 70 MPH highway may totally kill previous calculations, but would be IMO, more realistic.
Repeated over a one month period every time I fill up when I get to 1/4 tank. Always recording trip odometer and gallons to fill up on the pumps. Then, I just sum up all miles, all gallons, average them,( anything below a .5 gets rounded down, anything over .6 gets rounded up) then apply the final formula of miles/gallons.
I will have more definitive numbers after I return from my 800 mile roadtrip and see how much she eats. I am expecting a serious drop because I will be moving 700 pounds of passenger (two of my friends are REALLY big - the other guy could sit in the center console drink holder) and I guesstimate to be an additional 160 pounds of luggage at least. There is going to be a slow, sloping incline to climb to get out of the Ozark/river valley here so I think I will get more realistic numbers there over a broader range of terrain. Mostly, I have been sticking to town where there is mostly 45~50 MPH back-roads, flat as a board. Getting her up to speed on a 70 MPH highway may totally kill previous calculations, but would be IMO, more realistic.
BlazerLT
05-05-2005, 12:29 PM
Simple really. Fill the tank. Zero the trip odometer. When tank drops to 1/4, fill up again, record the trip odometer readout before zeroing the odometer again. Record how many gallons to top off tank. (When the pump shuts off with a click in the handle)
Repeated over a one month period every time I fill up when I get to 1/4 tank. Always recording trip odometer and gallons to fill up on the pumps. Then, I just sum up all miles, all gallons, average them,( anything below a .5 gets rounded down, anything over .6 gets rounded up) then apply the final formula of miles/gallons.
I will have more definitive numbers after I return from my 800 mile roadtrip and see how much she eats. I am expecting a serious drop because I will be moving 700 pounds of passenger (two of my friends are REALLY big - the other guy could sit in the center console drink holder) and I guesstimate to be an additional 160 pounds of luggage at least. There is going to be a slow, sloping incline to climb to get out of the Ozark/river valley here so I think I will get more realistic numbers there over a broader range of terrain. Mostly, I have been sticking to town where there is mostly 45~50 MPH back-roads, flat as a board. Getting her up to speed on a 70 MPH highway may totally kill previous calculations, but would be IMO, more realistic.
You probably do have an increase, but an air intake will not gain 8mpg bro, you know this.
Are you filling up at the same station. Some stations pumps kick off a lot earlier than others seeing they are more sensitive which could give you a false gallon reading.
Repeated over a one month period every time I fill up when I get to 1/4 tank. Always recording trip odometer and gallons to fill up on the pumps. Then, I just sum up all miles, all gallons, average them,( anything below a .5 gets rounded down, anything over .6 gets rounded up) then apply the final formula of miles/gallons.
I will have more definitive numbers after I return from my 800 mile roadtrip and see how much she eats. I am expecting a serious drop because I will be moving 700 pounds of passenger (two of my friends are REALLY big - the other guy could sit in the center console drink holder) and I guesstimate to be an additional 160 pounds of luggage at least. There is going to be a slow, sloping incline to climb to get out of the Ozark/river valley here so I think I will get more realistic numbers there over a broader range of terrain. Mostly, I have been sticking to town where there is mostly 45~50 MPH back-roads, flat as a board. Getting her up to speed on a 70 MPH highway may totally kill previous calculations, but would be IMO, more realistic.
You probably do have an increase, but an air intake will not gain 8mpg bro, you know this.
Are you filling up at the same station. Some stations pumps kick off a lot earlier than others seeing they are more sensitive which could give you a false gallon reading.
wolfox
05-05-2005, 12:52 PM
No, I know that the CAI alone is not doing it. I had squeezed in under the hood, all of the other goodies i had mentioned. It's cumulative I'd wager. I was getting roughly 23~25 MPG before in mixed driving, again, mostly flat, semi-highway conditions. I fill up at the same station every time (A local Shell station) and avoid the knock off brands found at your usual Qwick-E Mart fill station. (In my area, Dupree Petroleum fills the ground tanks on nearly every one of them, even a "Shell" branded Stop-n-Rob here in the center of town - not a good gas, IMO)
Combination of synthetics wherever I could pour it in, cleaning everything in the emmissions controls (IAC, IAT, Exhaust recirc, etc.) Upgrading a tad where stock replacement was needed in tune-up intervals, yadda-yadda. I bet we are looking at cumulative results from these light modifications and maintenance schedules. As I said, I bet more realistic numbers will come out of the whole thing when I take that roadtrip in a week with moderate loads and sustained highway speeds, much of it on an incline. I bet they will level off to something much more down to earth when this experiment breaks out of the laboratory and onto the open highway for a good stretch. (With the cruise control on of course) I am predicting MPG to drop off to something like 27~28 MPG at the very most - time and testing will tell. :) And knowing one of my passengers, he is going to insist that the A/C's turned up to blizzard and directed at his face, further chewing off efficiency. I expect 23~25 MPG in that case. Which IMO, would not be terrible - the truck comes back down to it's factory EPA sticker mileage with the A/C running. They usually test/grade these things on a closed loop with no accessories running. (I think)
Combination of synthetics wherever I could pour it in, cleaning everything in the emmissions controls (IAC, IAT, Exhaust recirc, etc.) Upgrading a tad where stock replacement was needed in tune-up intervals, yadda-yadda. I bet we are looking at cumulative results from these light modifications and maintenance schedules. As I said, I bet more realistic numbers will come out of the whole thing when I take that roadtrip in a week with moderate loads and sustained highway speeds, much of it on an incline. I bet they will level off to something much more down to earth when this experiment breaks out of the laboratory and onto the open highway for a good stretch. (With the cruise control on of course) I am predicting MPG to drop off to something like 27~28 MPG at the very most - time and testing will tell. :) And knowing one of my passengers, he is going to insist that the A/C's turned up to blizzard and directed at his face, further chewing off efficiency. I expect 23~25 MPG in that case. Which IMO, would not be terrible - the truck comes back down to it's factory EPA sticker mileage with the A/C running. They usually test/grade these things on a closed loop with no accessories running. (I think)
BlazerLT
05-05-2005, 01:02 PM
EPA is 18city/21hwy with completely ideal situations.
Unless you have a special truck, no offense, but 30 mpg out of a 4x4 blazer is just not doable.
Lighter two wheel drive s10 trucks and Blazers don't get that economy.
Unless you have a special truck, no offense, but 30 mpg out of a 4x4 blazer is just not doable.
Lighter two wheel drive s10 trucks and Blazers don't get that economy.
blazer94
05-05-2005, 02:32 PM
I'm gonna have to raise the BS flag on this one, too. 30MPG??? C'mon, my wifes 2003 6 cyl. Olds Alero doesn't get that. All hiway driving, lighter car, she has no lead foot, and drives very restrained. I know that that is apples to oranges, but c'mon... a 94 Blazer (4200 + lbs), SOME 4wd, etc...my head is spinning... :bs:
wolfox
05-05-2005, 02:35 PM
Actually, a 3500 pound 4-door '95. Let me see what she does on the road trip before I post anything final. ;)
DINO55
05-05-2005, 02:45 PM
No, I know that the CAI alone is not doing it. I had squeezed in under the hood, all of the other goodies i had mentioned. It's cumulative I'd wager. I was getting roughly 23~25 MPG before in mixed driving, again, mostly flat, semi-highway conditions. I fill up at the same station every time (A local Shell station) and avoid the knock off brands found at your usual Qwick-E Mart fill station. (In my area, Dupree Petroleum fills the ground tanks on nearly every one of them, even a "Shell" branded Stop-n-Rob here in the center of town - not a good gas, IMO)
Combination of synthetics wherever I could pour it in, cleaning everything in the emmissions controls (IAC, IAT, Exhaust recirc, etc.) Upgrading a tad where stock replacement was needed in tune-up intervals, yadda-yadda. I bet we are looking at cumulative results from these light modifications and maintenance schedules. As I said, I bet more realistic numbers will come out of the whole thing when I take that roadtrip in a week with moderate loads and sustained highway speeds, much of it on an incline. I bet they will level off to something much more down to earth when this experiment breaks out of the laboratory and onto the open highway for a good stretch. (With the cruise control on of course) I am predicting MPG to drop off to something like 27~28 MPG at the very most - time and testing will tell. :) And knowing one of my passengers, he is going to insist that the A/C's turned up to blizzard and directed at his face, further chewing off efficiency. I expect 23~25 MPG in that case. Which IMO, would not be terrible - the truck comes back down to it's factory EPA sticker mileage with the A/C running. They usually test/grade these things on a closed loop with no accessories running. (I think)
Let Me Know your Secret, I have a 1998 2WL 4.3 81,000 miles on it, April 2005 I did a full tune up, Plat plugs, rotor, cap, wires, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, new tires...I drive it like an old lady, 14.8 city 17.3 highway...
What's wrong with my truck???:banghead:
Combination of synthetics wherever I could pour it in, cleaning everything in the emmissions controls (IAC, IAT, Exhaust recirc, etc.) Upgrading a tad where stock replacement was needed in tune-up intervals, yadda-yadda. I bet we are looking at cumulative results from these light modifications and maintenance schedules. As I said, I bet more realistic numbers will come out of the whole thing when I take that roadtrip in a week with moderate loads and sustained highway speeds, much of it on an incline. I bet they will level off to something much more down to earth when this experiment breaks out of the laboratory and onto the open highway for a good stretch. (With the cruise control on of course) I am predicting MPG to drop off to something like 27~28 MPG at the very most - time and testing will tell. :) And knowing one of my passengers, he is going to insist that the A/C's turned up to blizzard and directed at his face, further chewing off efficiency. I expect 23~25 MPG in that case. Which IMO, would not be terrible - the truck comes back down to it's factory EPA sticker mileage with the A/C running. They usually test/grade these things on a closed loop with no accessories running. (I think)
Let Me Know your Secret, I have a 1998 2WL 4.3 81,000 miles on it, April 2005 I did a full tune up, Plat plugs, rotor, cap, wires, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, new tires...I drive it like an old lady, 14.8 city 17.3 highway...
What's wrong with my truck???:banghead:
blazee
05-05-2005, 02:51 PM
Actually, a 3500 pound 4-door '95. Let me see what she does on the road trip before I post anything final. ;)
Actually a 1995 Blazer LS 4dr 4wd is 4052lbs:
Technical Specificationshttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifhttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifhttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifSpecificationshttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifMileage (City / Hwy)
16/21
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifCurb Weight
4052 lbs
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifSeating Capacity
5 passengers
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifTowing Capacity
5000.0 lbs
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifDimensionshttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifWheelbase
107.0 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifOverall Length
181.2 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifVehicle Height
63.5 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifVehicle Width
67.8 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifFront Headroom
39.5 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifFront Legroom
42.4 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifRear Headroom
38.8 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifRear Legroom
36.1 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifPerformancehttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifEngine Size
4.3L
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifNumber of Cylinders
V6
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifEngine Type
Gas
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifCamshaft
Overhead valves (OHV)
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifHorsepower
200 hp @ 4500 rpm
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifTorque
260 ft-lbs @ 3600 rpm
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifFuel Capacity
19.0
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifTransmission
4-speed automatic
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifDrive
4WD
Actually a 1995 Blazer LS 4dr 4wd is 4052lbs:
Technical Specificationshttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifhttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifhttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifSpecificationshttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifMileage (City / Hwy)
16/21
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifCurb Weight
4052 lbs
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifSeating Capacity
5 passengers
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifTowing Capacity
5000.0 lbs
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifDimensionshttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifWheelbase
107.0 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifOverall Length
181.2 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifVehicle Height
63.5 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifVehicle Width
67.8 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifFront Headroom
39.5 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifFront Legroom
42.4 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifRear Headroom
38.8 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifRear Legroom
36.1 inches
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifPerformancehttp://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifEngine Size
4.3L
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifNumber of Cylinders
V6
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifEngine Type
Gas
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifCamshaft
Overhead valves (OHV)
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifHorsepower
200 hp @ 4500 rpm
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifTorque
260 ft-lbs @ 3600 rpm
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifFuel Capacity
19.0
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifTransmission
4-speed automatic
http://www.autotrader.com/img/blank_dot.gifDrive
4WD
blazee
05-05-2005, 02:55 PM
Let Me Know your Secret, I have a 1998 2WL 4.3 81,000 miles on it, April 2005 I did a full tune up, Plat plugs, rotor, cap, wires, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, new tires...I drive it like an old lady, 14.8 city 17.3 highway...
What's wrong with my truck???:banghead:
Where does your temperature gauge read when you are completely warmed up?
Probably best to start a thread and we'll go over a few things.
What's wrong with my truck???:banghead:
Where does your temperature gauge read when you are completely warmed up?
Probably best to start a thread and we'll go over a few things.
DINO55
05-05-2005, 03:21 PM
Blazee, it runs around 190 ish warmed up..
I do let it warm up before driving it, I live in the Chicago area, the colder it is the longer i let it warm up. I read a post about LAZY 02 SENSORS causing poor milage? I don't have any code's or SES lights showing. I get 215 miles to the three quater mark on the fuel guage, I don't want to go below that for fuel pump reasons. I had an 94 Astro 4.3 which got 17mpg city all day long. I am lost...
I do let it warm up before driving it, I live in the Chicago area, the colder it is the longer i let it warm up. I read a post about LAZY 02 SENSORS causing poor milage? I don't have any code's or SES lights showing. I get 215 miles to the three quater mark on the fuel guage, I don't want to go below that for fuel pump reasons. I had an 94 Astro 4.3 which got 17mpg city all day long. I am lost...
BlazerLT
05-05-2005, 05:41 PM
Actually, a 3500 pound 4-door '95. Let me see what she does on the road trip before I post anything final. ;)
I would appreciate it.
If your numbers are correct, you will have the record setting fuel economy with a 4x4 Blazer.
If you are not getting these number, please tell us.
I would appreciate it.
If your numbers are correct, you will have the record setting fuel economy with a 4x4 Blazer.
If you are not getting these number, please tell us.
wolfox
05-05-2005, 05:56 PM
As I said, these are preliminary figures taken in limited conditions. Long term testing or long distance driving is the only way to tell. About the only other thing I am doing that is not "standard" is keeping the gasoline laced with 8 Oz./10 gallons with Marvel Mystery Oil. (NOT the fuel system cleaner)
I had a '95 Dodge Ram 1500 w/5.2 V-8 Magnum engine that got 32MPG, '95 Subaru Legacy wagon 2.2 (EJ-22 engine) that got 37 MPG, and an '84 Oldsmobile Delta 88 wagon with 5 Liter (307 CID) engine mated to a TH-200R4 that got Mid 30's on average too. I change all filters at 35k regardless of time measurement, use synthetics, upgrade when it comes to replace parts away from OEM stuff. Seems to work.
As I stated before, these are early numbers and I have not tested them over a wide range of conditions, loads, or prolonged stretches of highway/interstate driving yet. I am optimistic, but trying to maintain objectivity here. I am having a terrible time believing it for myself. Perhaps a big consideration is that I manage to keep the truck rolling/creeping in stop and go traffic too. Starting from a dead stop eats up quite a bit of fuel. And though it's warm, upper 70's, sometimes 80's in the daytime where I am at, I have yet to use the A/C. When it gets to the mid 90's and swampy is when it sees use. I should have kept the numbers to myself a little longer until I had more data and conditions tested.
Slogging about off-road in 4x4 drive eats up a bit more fuel too. I count "mileage" there in how many hours of run-time I can get on usable fuel volume. Usually I play the game of "1/3 to get there, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for an emergency." Bear with me guys until I get more concrete information together.
I had a '95 Dodge Ram 1500 w/5.2 V-8 Magnum engine that got 32MPG, '95 Subaru Legacy wagon 2.2 (EJ-22 engine) that got 37 MPG, and an '84 Oldsmobile Delta 88 wagon with 5 Liter (307 CID) engine mated to a TH-200R4 that got Mid 30's on average too. I change all filters at 35k regardless of time measurement, use synthetics, upgrade when it comes to replace parts away from OEM stuff. Seems to work.
As I stated before, these are early numbers and I have not tested them over a wide range of conditions, loads, or prolonged stretches of highway/interstate driving yet. I am optimistic, but trying to maintain objectivity here. I am having a terrible time believing it for myself. Perhaps a big consideration is that I manage to keep the truck rolling/creeping in stop and go traffic too. Starting from a dead stop eats up quite a bit of fuel. And though it's warm, upper 70's, sometimes 80's in the daytime where I am at, I have yet to use the A/C. When it gets to the mid 90's and swampy is when it sees use. I should have kept the numbers to myself a little longer until I had more data and conditions tested.
Slogging about off-road in 4x4 drive eats up a bit more fuel too. I count "mileage" there in how many hours of run-time I can get on usable fuel volume. Usually I play the game of "1/3 to get there, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for an emergency." Bear with me guys until I get more concrete information together.
blazer94
05-05-2005, 05:57 PM
Let Me Know your Secret, I have a 1998 2WL 4.3 81,000 miles on it, April 2005 I did a full tune up, Plat plugs, rotor, cap, wires, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, new tires...I drive it like an old lady, 14.8 city 17.3 highway...
What's wrong with my truck???:banghead:
Actually, DINO, that doesn't seem too bad, 'cept it's a 2 WD.. my 94 4WD gets similar numbers, although better Hiway mpg when I get out of the chicagoland metro area, and can actually drive without stopping every 3-4 min; don't forget, colder weather + reformulated crap gas = sad mpg. Also, what kind of plat plugs are you using, and what temp rating is your thermostat? :smile:
What's wrong with my truck???:banghead:
Actually, DINO, that doesn't seem too bad, 'cept it's a 2 WD.. my 94 4WD gets similar numbers, although better Hiway mpg when I get out of the chicagoland metro area, and can actually drive without stopping every 3-4 min; don't forget, colder weather + reformulated crap gas = sad mpg. Also, what kind of plat plugs are you using, and what temp rating is your thermostat? :smile:
BlazerLT
05-05-2005, 06:08 PM
As I said, these are preliminary figures taken in limited conditions. Long term testing or long distance driving is the only way to tell. About the only other thing I am doing that is not "standard" is keeping the gasoline laced with 8 Oz./10 gallons with Marvel Mystery Oil. (NOT the fuel system cleaner)
I had a '95 Dodge Ram 1500 w/5.2 V-8 Magnum engine that got 32MPG, '95 Subaru Legacy wagon 2.2 (EJ-22 engine) that got 37 MPG, and an '84 Oldsmobile Delta 88 wagon with 5 Liter (307 CID) engine mated to a TH-200R4 that got Mid 30's on average too. I change all filters at 35k regardless of time measurement, use synthetics, upgrade when it comes to replace parts away from OEM stuff. Seems to work.
As I stated before, these are early numbers and I have not tested them over a wide range of conditions, loads, or prolonged stretches of highway/interstate driving yet. I am optimistic, but trying to maintain objectivity here. I am having a terrible time believing it for myself. Perhaps a big consideration is that I manage to keep the truck rolling/creeping in stop and go traffic too. Starting from a dead stop eats up quite a bit of fuel. And though it's warm, upper 70's, sometimes 80's in the daytime where I am at, I have yet to use the A/C. When it gets to the mid 90's and swampy is when it sees use. I should have kept the numbers to myself a little longer until I had more data and conditions tested.
Slogging about off-road in 4x4 drive eats up a bit more fuel too. I count "mileage" there in how many hours of run-time I can get on usable fuel volume. Usually I play the game of "1/3 to get there, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for an emergency." Bear with me guys until I get more concrete information together.
I would stop the over use of the MMO. Using additives like that will only foul your plugs.
Also, you stated these fuel economy measurements and they weren't true and concrete?
I had a '95 Dodge Ram 1500 w/5.2 V-8 Magnum engine that got 32MPG, '95 Subaru Legacy wagon 2.2 (EJ-22 engine) that got 37 MPG, and an '84 Oldsmobile Delta 88 wagon with 5 Liter (307 CID) engine mated to a TH-200R4 that got Mid 30's on average too. I change all filters at 35k regardless of time measurement, use synthetics, upgrade when it comes to replace parts away from OEM stuff. Seems to work.
As I stated before, these are early numbers and I have not tested them over a wide range of conditions, loads, or prolonged stretches of highway/interstate driving yet. I am optimistic, but trying to maintain objectivity here. I am having a terrible time believing it for myself. Perhaps a big consideration is that I manage to keep the truck rolling/creeping in stop and go traffic too. Starting from a dead stop eats up quite a bit of fuel. And though it's warm, upper 70's, sometimes 80's in the daytime where I am at, I have yet to use the A/C. When it gets to the mid 90's and swampy is when it sees use. I should have kept the numbers to myself a little longer until I had more data and conditions tested.
Slogging about off-road in 4x4 drive eats up a bit more fuel too. I count "mileage" there in how many hours of run-time I can get on usable fuel volume. Usually I play the game of "1/3 to get there, 1/3 to get back, 1/3 for an emergency." Bear with me guys until I get more concrete information together.
I would stop the over use of the MMO. Using additives like that will only foul your plugs.
Also, you stated these fuel economy measurements and they weren't true and concrete?
wolfox
05-05-2005, 08:01 PM
The use of MMO in the tank at the moment is to blow out the crap that I cannot clean. (Well, not without tearing down the heads) I will pull plugs and check them here after this tank runs through. The slightly heavy dose 8 Oz./10 gallons was taken under recommendation for a slow clean of EGR passages, cylinder heads, etc. I think it's suicide or tempting fate to cut the oil with the stuff as it says on the label.
As for the figures, they are not concrete. Too little sample time IMO for a true overall analysis. I tend to spend much of my time going through inner city bumper to bumper on weekends as I drag a friend around town to the usual spots. I will taker her through the clogged arteries to get calculations for in-city. I should have done this before hand and merged the data into the open road mileage I have logged. The streets are clear at times when I go into work and return home. I feel that merging the datum would make much more realistic numbers and a better, more understandable mean calculation.
As for truth and veracity, well - it's been 2 days since I tanked up and the needle has yet to move off of that 1/8th past full mark. I have logged 48 miles thus far. *shrug* What else can I say/do/think?
EDIT: Checked my door pillar - Curb weight N/A, (Weight on registraton says 3500 LBS) GVW 5300 LBS. It's a 1/2 ton pickup in disguise. ;) Gross axle weight front: 2600 LBS, Gross Axle weight rear 2900 LBS. I know a place where I can get her weighed in for certain...but I have a better use for $25 at the moment. *snicker*
As for the figures, they are not concrete. Too little sample time IMO for a true overall analysis. I tend to spend much of my time going through inner city bumper to bumper on weekends as I drag a friend around town to the usual spots. I will taker her through the clogged arteries to get calculations for in-city. I should have done this before hand and merged the data into the open road mileage I have logged. The streets are clear at times when I go into work and return home. I feel that merging the datum would make much more realistic numbers and a better, more understandable mean calculation.
As for truth and veracity, well - it's been 2 days since I tanked up and the needle has yet to move off of that 1/8th past full mark. I have logged 48 miles thus far. *shrug* What else can I say/do/think?
EDIT: Checked my door pillar - Curb weight N/A, (Weight on registraton says 3500 LBS) GVW 5300 LBS. It's a 1/2 ton pickup in disguise. ;) Gross axle weight front: 2600 LBS, Gross Axle weight rear 2900 LBS. I know a place where I can get her weighed in for certain...but I have a better use for $25 at the moment. *snicker*
blazer94
05-05-2005, 11:24 PM
Not to beat a dead heavy horse, but on nov 15, 2004 my 1994 s blazer tahoe with factory roof rack and outside spare tire mount, alloy wheels, load range "c" tires, and no cargo except glovebox info (reg., insurance card, can opener and small first aid kit) and approx 10 gal. of gas @ 60 lbs ( 1 gal. of gas = 6 lbs spec. grav. = 0.72 ) weigh in at Ill state hiway scales at 4135 lbs. this is opposed to a listed curb weight of 3776 lbs. (of course load range c tires were not standard on this vehicle)
biv343
05-06-2005, 10:39 AM
Wolfox, when you get ready to sell one of your used cars, let me know. I can't seem to get my Bravada out of the teens for mileage, and my little Alero 4 cylinder run around car might get 32 MPG on a good day, downhill with a tailwind.
wolfox
06-03-2005, 12:05 PM
Okay guys the results are in for a one month analysis:
Average MPG is 24 MPG. This is a mix of highway and city driving. Sticking around in town going from stop light to stop light gets about 18MPG. Open highway on level pavement, she gets about 29.7 to 30 MPG. Unfortunately, living in the Ozarks as I do, there is no such thing as level ground. *laugh* I had to measure mileage out there in Kansas City, tracking a few hundered miles around up there while hanging out with friends and of course getting there and back. Taking a spirited jaunt down 540 to Alma and Fort Smith and back up to NWA where I reside, she will easily kill off 130 miles an 6 gallons of gas sustaining 75MPH up and down the steep grades for a total of 21.6 MPG. She often kicks you in the seat of your pants when she knocks out of Overdrive into 2nd gear to keep things trucking at 75+ MPH up through the Hooper tunnel.
Sorry for the wait guys, and the disappointment, but I got a 30 MPG Blazer if she's running flat out on flat land. Going to have to find something else for you guys to make fun of me over next. ;)
Average MPG is 24 MPG. This is a mix of highway and city driving. Sticking around in town going from stop light to stop light gets about 18MPG. Open highway on level pavement, she gets about 29.7 to 30 MPG. Unfortunately, living in the Ozarks as I do, there is no such thing as level ground. *laugh* I had to measure mileage out there in Kansas City, tracking a few hundered miles around up there while hanging out with friends and of course getting there and back. Taking a spirited jaunt down 540 to Alma and Fort Smith and back up to NWA where I reside, she will easily kill off 130 miles an 6 gallons of gas sustaining 75MPH up and down the steep grades for a total of 21.6 MPG. She often kicks you in the seat of your pants when she knocks out of Overdrive into 2nd gear to keep things trucking at 75+ MPH up through the Hooper tunnel.
Sorry for the wait guys, and the disappointment, but I got a 30 MPG Blazer if she's running flat out on flat land. Going to have to find something else for you guys to make fun of me over next. ;)
BlazerLT
06-17-2005, 10:18 PM
I'm sorry bro, but something is up.
There is NO WAY a 4x4 blazer gets 30mpg.
There is NO WAY a 4x4 blazer gets 30mpg.
metallica21156
06-18-2005, 12:28 AM
that is paooable if the truck was kept at 45 mph the entire time. since rpms are low the fuel mileage would be better. the way they test for the mileage at the factory is a dyno and its at 55 mph. i don't remember if thats with everything on or off. but it is possable. its just near impossable to do.
cubanlorenzo
06-18-2005, 08:51 AM
i wish i got over 20 let alone 30 mpg. i drive about 75% city and 25% highway. city i get around 15!! and highway like 18.5. horrible i know. 95 4X4 with 193000. guess im glad she is still running strong, but i would like to see her run longer between fill-ups......
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