Extended travel shocks

Ok well i've been thinking of budget ways to lift my truck. I don't want to go with a body lift. I like the idea of using the ford keys to lift the front end and i've seen 2" add-a-leaf kits for the rear. I've heard from lots of people about how rough these trucks ride when you crank up the front end using the torsion bars. Will using longer travel shocks help prevent this harsh ride? What other negatives should i consider if i go with this type of set up? I would definately get the front end aligned to keep the edges of my tires from wearing out. Does anyone know if this would be enough to get 305's on without rubbing? Thanks in advance for any help.

Jake

rough ride isnt even the beginning of describing how rough the ride is...no, extended shocks wont help, if u want to keep a good ride go with about a 2 in body lift...should fit a 305/75/16 after that on a 10 in wide rim

Damn, I was hoping to hear good feedback for this idea. Guess I'll just save my money and go with the pro-comp 6" suspension when I get the time and the money. I've seen someone has come out with a 3" suspension, but i don't see the point when it cost almost as much as the 6". I really don't like the gaps under the bed and the bumpers sitting lower that you get when you install a body lift. Also don't like seeing much of the frame. Guess I'm just to picky about this.

I've got the Ford keys in front and a Add-a Leaf in the rear. I've noticed NO difference in the "harshness" of the ride. Getting things re-aligned is important though.

I don't have a 4wd, but could someone tell me about Ford keys?

I don't have a 4wd, but could someone tell me about Ford keys?

Ford keys reindex the torsion bars for more lift. However, the 2wd has coil springs, so these don't apply.

I lifted my '95 K2500 by cranking the torsion bars and easilly fit 305's on it, but my truck was noticably harsher riding. I must be a glutton for punishment though, as I am going to do the same thing on my '02.

My choice of an aftermarket lift would definitly be one that DOES NOT drop the upper control arm. Some current shorter lifts are just as expensive because they include taller knuckles. This way, your upper arm stays put and the taller knuckle retains the factory steering hookups, therefore you don't have to drop all of the steering. This greatly reduces the alignment woes associated with the more radical lifts. Just my:2cents:http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/329398resizedIMG_2778.JPG

norwood,
What size tires are you running on your truck. I like the look and stance of your ride.
Jake

Thanks,
They're 265/75-16's. I really had myself talked into getting 285/75's but around here anyway there's a sizable price jump to 285's. I was on a budget anyway and in the end couldn't justify the added $$.
I also thought about the 255/85's like you have listed, but NOBODY around here stocks them and again, it was +$$.

Truck does look nice Norwood. By cranking the front up that high, do you have any issues with the upper control arms coming down and hitting the frame contacts on suspension extension? My '95 did, but these newer frames look like they have a little more clearance. Also, did you use longer shocks afterward?

My HD sits so high in back, I can probably leave the rear suspension alone and just raise the front to match.

Truck does look nice Norwood. By cranking the front up that high, do you have any issues with the upper control arms coming down and hitting the frame contacts on suspension extension? My '95 did, but these newer frames look like they have a little more clearance. Also, did you use longer shocks afterward?

My HD sits so high in back, I can probably leave the rear suspension alone and just raise the front to match.

Thanks,
I've not had any issues like you mentioned. I really didn't raise it that high in my opinion. When you think about it, raiseing the front end with the torsion keys doesn't add any travel or articulation to the suspension. So if the suspension were to "top" out in an off-road situation it would do it regardless. Where people run into problems I think, is by going too far... maxing out the adjustment with the stock keys or cranking too much with the Ford keys in. By going for the max lift you're taking too much extention travel out of the suspension, then it probably WILL top out a lot, over slight bumps and such.
Just by putting the Ford keys in raised the front about an inch, then I started adjusting and took it up about another half an inch. I could have went quite a ways more but didn't want to ask for trouble. And I was satisfied with the look. When I put my jack under her and raise her, it goes up a ways yet before the wheels come off the ground. Scientific? No, but I'm O.K. with it. Then getting the new tires added another half an inch.
When I need new shocks I plan to look into some slightly longer ones, not sure I really understand why they would be necessary. I guess shocks just shouldn't be extended that far very often. But as I said no more travel or articulation than before, so?
My main concern has been what damage I may be doing to the 4WD output shafts and joints with the slightly steeper angles now. My truck has 110,000 miles on it so I probably need to watch them pretty close anyhow.
If you're cranking up a HD I bet it will ride rougher because HD's obviously use heavier torsion bars which give a little less tolerance for comfort maybe.
Bottom line on cranking torsion bars I think a little is usually O.K. but too much is too much and will likely cause trouble. On the other hand, I've talked to alot of guys with full lifts and those certainly have their share of problems also.
I just wish GM made their 4WD (1/2 ton especially) trucks look like a 4WD from the factory.

your shafts should be ok. I've heard from somewhere that you would have to lift the truck about 3 inches or so before you start running into problems with the CV shafts. The CV style shaft is designed to withstand higher angles that the older universal joints. Someone please chime in if i'm off about the lift height. I turned my stock keys up about 4 rounds. There was more space to go, but i didn't want to max them out. That picked up my front end about an 1" which put my truck damn near level. The 255/85 tires really picked me up quite a bit. I believe they spec out around 33.4 inches. not sure what the stock 265/70 are in diameter.

Jake

Ford keys reindex the torsion bars for more lift. However, the 2wd has coil springs, so these don't apply.

I lifted my '95 K2500 by cranking the torsion bars and easilly fit 305's on it, but my truck was noticably harsher riding. I must be a glutton for punishment though, as I am going to do the same thing on my '02.

My choice of an aftermarket lift would definitly be one that DOES NOT drop the upper control arm. Some current shorter lifts are just as expensive because they include taller knuckles. This way, your upper arm stays put and the taller knuckle retains the factory steering hookups, therefore you don't have to drop all of the steering. This greatly reduces the alignment woes associated with the more radical lifts. Just my:2cents:http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/329398resizedIMG_2778.JPG

I have an '03 with a 6" Pro-Comp which DOES drop the upper arms as well as the lower arms. I have about 14,000 miles of Montana (rough) roads so far with no alignment problems to speak of. I have heard numerous reports of alignment problems with Superlift, RC, and TC lifts though. Now, with that said, I never off-road my truck except for the occasional 2-track back road. I really think it all depends on your driving (or trashing) style. My 2-cents? Do a solid axle swap; torsion bars were never intended to handle 35's and 6" of lift all day. My lift has been trouble free, but I also baby it.

About the Ford keys. I have also installed the Ford keys on mine. I really have to agree that the CV's will withstand a pretty steep angle before disintegrating. They are designed for the angle. In my experience, about 15 degrees is the limit for daily driving. You should be fine.

I have heard numerous reports of alignment problems with Superlift, RC, and TC lifts though.

Yeah, the quality of the particular lift has a lot do do with it. I've heard the same thing.

I cranked the HD's bars up 8 full turns yesterday expecting the worst, but it actually rides pretty much the same as it did and sits level now. Looks a helluva lot better. Wish I would have measured beforehand, but I'd say I raised it a couple inches, and there's still quite a bit of room before contacting the frame stops. My '95 was a lot different. That rode like crap after less cranking, and placed the upper arms so close to the frame stops that when I went over not so big potholes, it was extremely harsh, and there was metal to metal contact.

Is it possible to snap a torsion bar or will it just twist if your too rough on it?

Is it possible to snap a torsion bar or will it just twist if your too rough on it?

I've seen plenty of bars bust on those Astro AWD vans, but not on the trucks. Suppose it's possible though, but you'd have to be whooping on it pretty darn hard.

they SNAP!!! loud too, sounds like you just fell through all the way to china.....dont ask me how i know.....lol

Ok well i've been thinking of budget ways to lift my truck. I don't want to go with a body lift. I like the idea of using the ford keys to lift the front end and i've seen 2" add-a-leaf kits for the rear. I've heard from lots of people about how rough these trucks ride when you crank up the front end using the torsion bars. Will using longer travel shocks help prevent this harsh ride? What other negatives should i consider if i go with this type of set up? I would definately get the front end aligned to keep the edges of my tires from wearing out. Does anyone know if this would be enough to get 305's on without rubbing? Thanks in advance for any help.

Jake

I am running 305's on my 2000. I turned up the bars to where it sits level and installed 16X8 wheels with 0 offset. I had to do a little modifying by trimming the bottom corner of the inner fender where it covers the windshield washing fluid. I also took black zip ties and pulled the inner fenders away from the tires at the bottom. I don't have any rubbing at all.