New moter

well me n the gf of 3 years broke up, so i had to do the right thing and buy that 350 that i could never afford with her around, heres a picture of it: its just the block, pistons, and rings, so if anyone has suggestions on what computer, or heads, or anything else for that matter please feel free and guide me, its the first build ive done, ever, and also its for a modle year of 87 to 93, and is tbi, can i upgrade to csfi or cpi from the tb? thanks guys http://i2.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/d8/2c/75_1_b.JPGhttp://i15.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/d6/d1/26_1_b.JPG
500 bucks and it was just remanufactured, and the dead beat never payed so the shop sold it dirt cheep

good deal!! keep us up to date on this one. cant wait to see end results. good luck and most important have fun.

That is a good price dmbrisket.

It's weird. my gf for 2 years and I broke up in Jan, and I was able to take a 3 week holiday 2/3 of the way across Canada in Febuary.
I'm 1/2 kicking myself for taking her back, and the progress on my toys is really suffering as a result.

I don't know how pricy they are but when I was researching into heads this company caught my eye.
http://www.airflowresearch.com/
I don't know anyone that has tried them but if the dyno figures isn't complete bs you'd probably have somewhere around 400hp and lots of torque
If you decide to try them can you let me know how you like them? I have to wait until my next break-up to buy anything like that

dmbrisket, that looks like a helluva lotta fun you're getting yourself into. It is a shame though, that for most of us wifey and /or girlfriend take up all the xtra cash so not too many new toys for us. Oh well, enjoy, and keep us posted on the build.

It isn't just the cash, it's also the time. To me it seems that whenever I have a day to myself where I can work on my projects my girlfriend either drops on over for the day wanting to do something.
Or she calles my up saying that she is sick and has to see me all day.
I'm sure glad that we don't live together anymore.

It isn't just the cash, it's also the time. To me it seems that whenever I have a day to myself where I can work on my projects my girlfriend either drops on over for the day wanting to do something.
Or she calles my up saying that she is sick and has to see me all day.
I'm sure glad that we don't live together anymore.


:iagree:

Sorry to hear that you and your girl broke up.

My gf holds the door when I take the pins and bushings out (she's stronger than me), but that's as far as she'll go to encourage my fixer-up hobby.

But with that 350 you should have a new one in no time.

lol probelm with the 350 is that its already tore down, i can usually put things back together if i take them apart, but ive never delt with a moter at the point that this one is in, i know i need the heads, lifters, pushrods, but im at a loss for some reason, guess im just scared

What an awesome swap ... motor for a bitch !!! :lol:

Check out Summit or Jegs and see what kind of package they have for the top end. Usually they have complete packages that have been tested together and all the components work the best with each other. That will be the simplest way to finish the motor. May be a little $$$ but alot easier then trying to mix and match parts.

THe other thing you have to worry about is accessories. I've heard that 4.3 stuff will match up good, but it's another step were your truck is going to be out of action.

im converting my 2.8 to a 350 as well, and i HAVE a wife. its time consuming, yes, but all will come in due time. i need some help as far as hoking up my new 350 because i dont know what the hell to do because the old truck had fuel injection and the 350 is carbuerated

Well Toenail, it's easier to convert to a carburated motor, than it is to convert to injected.

You'll probably have to remove the fuel pump from the tank, and extend the fuel pickup back to the length it was before you removed the fuel pump.
Install a in-line electric fuel pump.
And cut the metal fuel line under the hood, replacing it with normal fuel hose up to the carb.
You might have to plug a return fuel line off.

If possible I would stick with some electronic ignition.

If you want you can look into a shop manual and remove any unneeded wiring, and electronics

THe other thing you have to worry about is accessories. I've heard that 4.3 stuff will match up good, but it's another step were your truck is going to be out of action.
ive heard that the 4.3 accesories will match up, and the truck being down is no big deal, my honda is a head gasket away from running good, the only concern i have is the 4.3 is a 98 and the 350 (5.7) is a 4 bolt main from a 92 somethin, i cant seam to find a good site for casting numbers, but im worried about the difference in years being an issue

That is a good price dmbrisket.

It's weird. my gf for 2 years and I broke up in Jan, and I was able to take a 3 week holiday 2/3 of the way across Canada in Febuary.
I'm 1/2 kicking myself for taking her back, and the progress on my toys is really suffering as a result.

I don't know how pricy they are but when I was researching into heads this company caught my eye.
http://www.airflowresearch.com/
I don't know anyone that has tried them but if the dyno figures isn't complete bs you'd probably have somewhere around 400hp and lots of torque
If you decide to try them can you let me know how you like them? I have to wait until my next break-up to buy anything like that
sorry for the doubble post, but yes if i decide to go with them i will let you know, but im scared because i cannot find a price anyware for them, not even the supplier links have prices :shakehead , my other option is there is a shop called aps down the road from me and they are a shop specializing in street/race vehicals, hopefully they can hook me up good

ok, sorry for the tripple post, but atleast this one is 3 and a half hours later... with this being an 87 to 93 moter, my 4l60e tranny wont work will it? if not should i just use a 700r4 tranny? im looken for power, but i dont think im going to lose a whole bunch by making it an auto, and its already an auto, i dont want to go through the pain of switching to a floor shift

That is a good price dmbrisket.

It's weird. my gf for 2 years and I broke up in Jan, and I was able to take a 3 week holiday 2/3 of the way across Canada in Febuary.
I'm 1/2 kicking myself for taking her back, and the progress on my toys is really suffering as a result.

I don't know how pricy they are but when I was researching into heads this company caught my eye.
http://www.airflowresearch.com/
I don't know anyone that has tried them but if the dyno figures isn't complete bs you'd probably have somewhere around 400hp and lots of torque
If you decide to try them can you let me know how you like them? I have to wait until my next break-up to buy anything like that


i actually bought a set of these heads....for a 327 in my 67 camaro , havent gotten it running..but according to the guy that got me them (a VERy well known machinist in so cal) with the set up im lookin at , i should put out around 550HP , natrually aspirated running 91 octane and carburated too , so , needless to say , THEY RULE!

Update: no pictures yet, picture a short block, 350, freshly machined to .060 over, on an engin stand in the garauge, but i do have a picture of the heads i just bought (anoter e bay item) they are the center bolt, vortec heads,
well:
http://i14.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/f0/c0/c2_1_b.JPG and http://i10.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/ef/db/08_1_b.JPG
they look ugly in this picture, but hey, the are freshly redone, and it was a shop, so i trust um

moms gunna kill me, but i changed my mind for a set of these
http://members.aol.com/gofaststuff/ProV1.jpg
decided to go with the 305 heads instead of the 350 heads, now i gotta get rid of the 350 heads that arent even here yet lol

That engine should rip!
You might want to install a flame thrower into the exhaust to really light the night up!

I wish that I had the time to drop a 500 Caddy motor into my motorhome, then rebuild that 350 using those heads your looking to get rid of for my Blazer.
That won't happen for 2 or more years, if ever

moter should go! i ordered some flat top pistons today to up my comp. from 8 something to 10.5 ish, and that was an est. with 64 cc chambers and im going to be using a 58cc chamber so i could hit 11:1 compression there, does anyone know of a good company to get a cam kit from, i want a whole kit, i know nothing about cams, except they open and shut my valves, but as to gears and all that i have no idea what i want, i tryed callen comp cams' 800 number today and it was buys for over 2 hours so i gave up, any one have any sugestions on a good cam kit or a place that will grind a custom cam for me? i figgure if im going to spend the money might as well go all out.
picture of my new pistons
http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/ac/32/19_1_b.JPG
im .060 over, and i hope to god they got that memo, if i get the wrong set (030) i will be [B]pissed off
and overboard if you realy want the heads, pm me, if not they are going to sit on a shelf untill i find a use for them

nice pistons.
I'd love to buy the heads, but I can't really afford it at the moment. My girlfriend is already looking for our next house.

I'm scanning some comp cam info sheets, and I'll e-mail it right to you. My computers security still won't let me post photo's on this forum. (I have to fix that one day)

These prices are in Canadian, so they won't apply to you, but it'll give you an idea what cam you want.
There are just so many to chose from

That engine should rip!
You might want to install a flame thrower into the exhaust to really light the night up!

I wish that I had the time to drop a 500 Caddy motor into my motorhome, then rebuild that 350 using those heads your looking to get rid of for my Blazer.
That won't happen for 2 or more years, if ever

Why don't you out the 502 in your s10? hahaha

My friend has a 73 coupe deville with a 502, and that thing is a monster!

Why don't you out the 502 in your s10? hahaha

My friend has a 73 coupe deville with a 502, and that thing is a monster!

hmmmm. Now that's an idea. I've got a 2wd s-10 Blazer frame, and I'm getting a clean body on a spare parts 4x4. I wouldn't have to buy plane tickets then, just floor it and I'm there! So long Cops! Hahaha
I know someone with a 1970 High compression Caddy motor, just sitting around. I really wouldn't mind getting that motor droped in my motorhome.
I'm told that it would smoke my duelies with very little work done on it.
Besides I'd like to drop that 350 into that clean parts Blazer making it into a bush buggy (I'm buying it from an impound yard that's been sitting on it for over a year, and there's no papers)

The biggest problem is that I'll never be able to do it until my next break up, and my Girlfriend and I are starting to go house hunting. I might SOL

Updade: well pistons and cylender heads arrived today, the look perdy, all machine work was nicly done, thanks to gofast stuff and top line vortec, both have excided my expectations, im having the pistions pressed in tomorrow, but now the task at hand is finding a 96 to 99 vortec intake, and ecm, the ones i can find, are expencive, and all aftermarkets are for carbs. but i dont want a carb, so im on the hunt!

dmbrisket 51, Holley makes some efi chevy manifolds.
I can't promise that they are made for your application since I haven't looked into it.
The part numbers appear to be
9901-101-1
9901-107
300-66
looking in my engine parts catologe

its a tb setup, im doin the 96+ application (csfi) which is chevys multi port, more power, ad a little better on gas, they also only have the top half of the plumn, ive looked lol, lots of time invested, and ive come to the conclusion of j yard is the best bet, only other real option is dealer, and thats not happening... autozone, advanced, pep boys, car quest and napa, none of them have the lower plumn, and only have carberator applications for the top half

Holley's 9901-107 sayes it's for gen 1 Vortec head designs
They also sell a fuel rain for it. kit # 9900-172
Plus they mention performance injection kits available.

Like I said, I really don't know, it's just what an engine parts book in front of me shows.

Good Luck, and I hope that you find what you want

hows everything going?

going good, got the pistons installed, have the short block gasket kit, and just yesterday i won an intake off e bay for 105 bucks, including upper and lower plumn, injectors, and sencors... STILL on the hunt for a computer and harness, im sure ill come accros one... one question I have is, does anyone know if my 4.3's fuel pump will be enough for the 5.7 or will i need more pressure? same injection style, so i dont see why i would need a "bigger" pump unless 2 injectors flow more then i realize. ill try and get some pics up as soon as moter starts goin together, should be within the next 3 weeks

I looked for a fuel pump not to long ago and if I remember correctly they only listed 1 for later V6 and V8's. It was on the net though, so the company might have just gotten in a genural purpose pump from somewhere


It's possible that they use a different fuel regulator though

im almost positive that the regualtor is differet, thanks for the info overboard

well, i CAN use my fuel pump, thats a releife, and as my uncles advice im going to head down to gm tomorrow and see how much a custom ground cam is going to cost me, and look for a corvette and take the fuel injectors out of it for more flow... the Intake manifold came in today, need to tare that down, going to match the intake and exhaust ports to the gaskits for optimum flow, port n' polish, and have the exterior sand blasted and then im either going to polish it up real nice (most likly) or have it powder coated black, My grandpa dug through all of his old parts n stuff and found me an exhaust manifold from a 305 and gave them to me, those are going to the college with me for sandblasting and those will be powder coated black to keep them from rusting... heres a couple pics. of the intake manifold and if anyone has any suggestion im open, thanks
http://i23.ebayimg.com/03/i/04/05/8c/74_12_sb.JPGhttp://i5.ebayimg.com/01/i/04/05/1d/8b_12_sb.JPG

hows it all going? any current pics? hope youre having a ggo time with it.

i have been in a mad dash seince last post, truck leaves tuesday for body repair and a paint job, the moter has been on hold somewhat... i did, however order my springs, valves, high energy cam from comp cams, locks, retainers, pushrods and guides and cup's gotta get it all here and i can start assembly

(a little drunk sorry if something dont make sence) went to advanced auto, but after reading my last post, i see how this may get confusing, after the word cams in high energy cam from comp cams, i needed to order still... so i finally said fuck it and ordered my roller rocker arms, studs, locks, nuts, push rods, guide plates, locks and retainers, im also looking at having the heads gasket matched along with a port n' polish, but places here want 800 for that, a 50 min. drive would save me half, problem is i have to drive it twice one day and twice the next for the heads... but every thing should be here friday, and them im ready for assembly, all i need is high flow oil pump, dinky ass radiator with e fan, oil pan, and exhaust manifold (most likly headers) computer and harness and im gone! computer and harness are being the total bitch right now, if any one runs acroos either, let me know, please, i need them... thanks and ill keep you guys informed

Doug, Here's some food for thought
My mechanic friend who races 1/4 mile, and builds race motors swears against High Flow oil pumps.
He's seen more motors screwed because they suck the pan right dry faster than the oil returns to the pan.
If you decide to go with the high flow you pretty much require the flow reducer in there.
He just uses a regular, but high quality pump on his 500+hp race engines, and I don't think that he's ever had a problem with oil pressure.

Plus for the money that you save on the machine shop work you can have a night in a hotel, and a good time. Then still have some extra coin

yeah, ive given the highflow oil pump thought, and nah, ima use an oem replacement... but on another note, i went and picked up my loner vehical for the month while truck is gone, friend of the family just had a knee replaced and said i could borrow her little old lady car, she said its not fast or ne thing, but it will get me around... i went and got it, payed no attention to the badges, sept its a mercury somethin, nice leather seats, wood grain on the dash, put my foot half way down at 20mph and the tires screamed, damn thing threw me back into the seat hard... got out of her at home, little old ladys car is a dohc with supercharger... im in for trouble with this one...

It must be one nice lady.
The extra power will help you get ready for the V8
Ford sure knows how to build power when they want to.
Have fun with it!

If your thinking of selling your 4.3L you might want to PM earlmred

You can read his story on this thread
http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic416899.htm
If I wanted to buy a used 4.3 your's, and Rlith's are the first 2 that I would try to buy

you cant have it! no one can, lol, jk, the guy that i like to deal with at advanced auto is buying it from me, ill cut him a good price, hes signed me up as a "business" account from the shit ive been buying

Good for you.

I knew that it must be a good motor.

it suprisingly is, and i say suprisingly because it had 98xxx,xxx when i got it, and it was owned by the road commision, so it got beat like a step child (figure, dont wanna here it from anyone) and had nothing but short trips (under 20 miles) for 99% of its lifetime.... seince ive owned her, about 12k, she has gotten babbyed up, cleaned up, and taken very good care of.

Well the road commision might beat the hell out of trucks, and only use it for short trips around the block, but they do keep the oil changed often, and a full maintence package far more often tham most people do.

Plus often when you see them parked they arre idling so the motor does reach a decent enough temputure so the moisture all evaporates from the system.
Although some people think that idling a motor for extended periods is bad

lol probelm with the 350 is that its already tore down, i can usually put things back together if i take them apart, but ive never delt with a moter at the point that this one is in, i know i need the heads, lifters, pushrods, but im at a loss for some reason, guess im just scareddam you posted on a thread a few days ago when my wife was on here advertising our truck and sounded like you knew it all....maybe not, but im not here to be a dick or asshole here are just some tips on your motor...(1)high volume oil pumps are no good unless your oil pan has a baffle in it those pumps will keep all the oil on top of the motor not good for bearings.(2)305 heads are in my opinion junk even if you port them you still cant cut enough meat out of them to make them flow any good numbers.(3)since you already have the 305 heads and got them ported what were the flow #s on the intake and exhaust?(4)you have never mentioned any specs on the cam.lift? duration? lca? keep in mind the cam needs to be based off what your heads are going to flow, your intake power range is also critical to cam selection, also what converter you are using,and how hard you want to turn the motor, it is very easy to go wrong there.also the valve springs will need to be matched to cam,and piston to valve clearance is another thing you gotta watch out for (5)i would not use a 4.3 fuel pump if you are going up in comp. that means you will need more fuel, i have seen people try this with bad results, not enough fuel means it will run lean..its always better to run a little rich than lean....just a few tips i have learned along the way.........one thing i do want to mention when my wife advertised our truck you said that you paid about the same for your 98...do you think it being a govt. vehicle had much to do with it? cause most of the time you can buy them really cheap. and most dont come with very many options, but all the same i never base my cars off what someone else paid for theirs :nono:.....p.s if you really want that truck to run scrap the chevy motor and put a ford motor in it :wave: ..later

I don't know about that Ford stuff there tasg.
I do prefer Fords myself, although I own 2 Chev powered vehicles.
But in my opinion there is just so much extra work involved it isn't worth it.

However If you got the 427 stroker kit for the 351W block you'd really be talking.
I don't know if Chevy has any stroker kit for their small blocks that will even come close.

A set of Boss heads and an intake manifold brought in from Austrailia and you have a Killer combo

Hook that up to a 6 speed Richmond transmission and you might as well add wings to your truck

I don't know about that Ford stuff there tasg.
I do prefer Fords myself, although I own 2 Chev powered vehicles.
But in my opinion there is just so much extra work involved it isn't worth it.

However If you got the 427 stroker kit for the 351W block you'd really be talking.
I don't know if Chevy has any stroker kit for their small blocks that will even come close.

A set of Boss heads and an intake manifold brought in from Austrailia and you have a Killer combo

Hook that up to a 6 speed Richmond transmission and you might as well add wings to your truckchevy just released a 454 c.i. small block crate motor, ive seen them with as much as 472 c.i.....ive seen a 44o c.i. ford small block...you can take a 302 and put the cleveland heads on it some machine work has to be done but they will fit and you will have a (simuliar) boss engine.

Special intake manifold required for the conversion from windsor heads to cleveland heads.
I don't believe that they make them anymore, and they don't list the conversion spacers in my books anymore either
There is a 302 Boss intake manifold listed on E-Bay right now, but I don't know if it would work with the conversion. Plus it's 600Bux U.S.

Isn't that 454 sbc actually a Merlin motor?
I know that they're the same castings.... Just modified. I don't think that Chevy actually owns merlin. Although I might be wrong

Good Motors though, my mechanic friend has a 496 stroker using a Merlin 427 tall deck simesed block.
It should run good when he's finally done building up his early 70's Chevelle with it in

Special intake manifold required for the conversion from windsor heads to cleveland heads.
I don't believe that they make them anymore, and they don't list the conversion spacers in my books anymore either
There is a 302 Boss intake manifold listed on E-Bay right now, but I don't know if it would work with the conversion. Plus it's 600Bux U.S.

Isn't that 454 sbc actually a Merlin motor?
I know that they're the same castings.... Just modified. I don't think that Chevy actually owns merlin. Although I might be wrong

Good Motors though, my mechanic friend has a 496 stroker using a Merlin 427 tall deck simesed block.
It should run good when he's finally done building up his early 70's Chevelle with it inwilson manifolds has the intake for that conversion, the 454 smallblock is from motown (4.125 stroke with a 4.250 bore) big big smallblock..

dam you posted on a thread a few days ago when my wife was on here advertising our truck and sounded like you knew it all....maybe not, but im not here to be a dick or asshole here are just some tips on your motor...(1)high volume oil pumps are no good unless your oil pan has a baffle in it those pumps will keep all the oil on top of the motor not good for bearings.(2)305 heads are in my opinion junk even if you port them you still cant cut enough meat out of them to make them flow any good numbers.(3)since you already have the 305 heads and got them ported what were the flow #s on the intake and exhaust?(4)you have never mentioned any specs on the cam.lift? duration? lca? keep in mind the cam needs to be based off what your heads are going to flow, your intake power range is also critical to cam selection, also what converter you are using,and how hard you want to turn the motor, it is very easy to go wrong there.also the valve springs will need to be matched to cam,and piston to valve clearance is another thing you gotta watch out for (5)i would not use a 4.3 fuel pump if you are going up in comp. that means you will need more fuel, i have seen people try this with bad results, not enough fuel means it will run lean..its always better to run a little rich than lean....just a few tips i have learned along the way.........one thing i do want to mention when my wife advertised our truck you said that you paid about the same for your 98...do you think it being a govt. vehicle had much to do with it? cause most of the time you can buy them really cheap. and most dont come with very many options, but all the same i never base my cars off what someone else paid for theirs :nono:.....p.s if you really want that truck to run scrap the chevy motor and put a ford motor in it :wave: ..later

lets see here, 1) you are correct, unless i have my uncle side mount it and we reverse the flwo, goes to the crank first and then up to the cam, keeping all the oil in the bottum end, where its needed. 2) 305 heads, yes they are, oem/factory heads, no, they are made by pro topline, much more meater then stock ever would be 3) flows between 212 and 224 cmf's, the shop that did the p/p doesnt have a flow bench to put it on, and they were dirt cheep, so i decided to not care what i am flowing. 4) cam is a comp cams energy line camshaft, you want specks, look um up, its in the garauge, and i dont feel like going out there at 3 am..by converter i assume you mean on my automatic transmission, it is going to keep the std. 4l60e that is in her now, i know i know, i should put in a high stall one, but the green is thin after paint, maby when shes down for the winter ill do it 5) the problem is with the fp is that the 350's fp is the same pump, looken to make my lines a little larger and get a high flow pump with a good return line, it is not good to burn either rich or lean... being a govt truck had lots to do with it, and yep, your right, not a lot of options, but your talking to people who love automotive work and getting their hands dirty, why pay someone else to do it if i can myselfe, seince ive had my truck it has gotten power bucket seats, sliding rear glass windown and sunroof (pictures when she returns) pioneer cd player with 10" sub and 1/2 farad capacitor. new carpeting, sprayed in a bed liner (yes did it myselfe, bitch to do, gotta get a realy big tip for it) hard top for the bed, and a body kit that looks like the ones on the extremes, except it has round foglight holes instead of squiar ones, i have the new reostat to give it cruze controll, will be doing that when it comes back, along with taking out both air bags and putting a moniter in the steering wheel and a moniter in the passengers side where the bag should be, had rain guards on it, but those came off when the cal view sport mirrors went on. and if i was to buy a ford, it would be the 3.0 24 valve duratec (sp?) that im driving now, ill admit it, it would WAIST my truck, but i would never buy a bbf or even the equivilant of a 350, i like working on my own vehicals, but not that much :lol: ps. ive checked for valve clearence, packed clay into the releife valves, put the head on without a gasket, and turned her over, pulled the head off and you can just barly see metal at the bottum, and she turned over freely, now that is PERFECT because when the felpro gasket goes on that will add somewhere along the lines of .001 to .002 to that, and twenty thousenths of an inch isnt much, but, its enough to clear it and run perfectly

update: got oil pan (kinda cool, its chrome) free from cousin, oil pump and screen, putten those on tomorrow and then to the top half... truck comes back hopfully friday from paint, and it looks awsome already, ill have pics of both moter and truck by monday!

Any updates?

not at the moment, sitten there awaiting a computer and wireing harness from a 96 to 99 vortec 350... truck was redone, looked nice n sharp, lowered it 5/8, (will be 6/8 when 350 goes into it, leveling it off, right now its slitly raked to the back, not noticable when moving) then the wrong lug nuts went on it and the tire smashed fender up, told ins. they cover me, then sue the company who sold me wrong... so my last pennies went towards a deductable, instead of the computer :(... shooten for this winter now, all i need is the computer, wireing harness, mount kit, e fan (have doner car, havnt pulled yet) radiator (once again have doner truck, havnt pulled yet) and i beleve thats it

nothen new, but woot woot i can update... havnt bought anything, but i did finally get to putten on my oil pan, come to find out its for a pre 79 block and the dip stick is on drivers side, so i now need to add that to my list of thing i need to get rid of and things i need to get... so i went and put the heads on the block, looks good, put intake on heads, looks good lol, still need computer and harness, and thanks to an honest mistake a distributor :( o well... going to set the rocker arms tomorrow and take some pictures for ya

Sounds like things are starting to shape up for you.
You probably know this already but with Chev 350's you have to give the valves a final adjustment with the motor running
If you don't know how it's done I can send you the info

thought i could do final adjustment dry...

I don't know what the engine shops do, but everyone that I know sayes that you have to do the final adjustment while it's running. Even a race engine builder friend of mine

You can get it close while dry though.

its at the point of me bringing it to automotive shop and me and the ase sertified cousin are going to be finishing it there

dam you posted on a thread a few days ago when my wife was on here advertising our truck and sounded like you knew it all....maybe not, but im not here to be a dick or asshole here are just some tips on your motor...(1)high volume oil pumps are no good unless your oil pan has a baffle in it those pumps will keep all the oil on top of the motor not good for bearings.(2)305 heads are in my opinion junk even if you port them you still cant cut enough meat out of them to make them flow any good numbers.(3)since you already have the 305 heads and got them ported what were the flow #s on the intake and exhaust?(4)you have never mentioned any specs on the cam.lift? duration? lca? keep in mind the cam needs to be based off what your heads are going to flow, your intake power range is also critical to cam selection, also what converter you are using,and how hard you want to turn the motor, it is very easy to go wrong there.also the valve springs will need to be matched to cam,and piston to valve clearance is another thing you gotta watch out for (5)i would not use a 4.3 fuel pump if you are going up in comp. that means you will need more fuel, i have seen people try this with bad results, not enough fuel means it will run lean..its always better to run a little rich than lean....just a few tips i have learned along the way.........one thing i do want to mention when my wife advertised our truck you said that you paid about the same for your 98...do you think it being a govt. vehicle had much to do with it? cause most of the time you can buy them really cheap. and most dont come with very many options, but all the same i never base my cars off what someone else paid for theirs :nono:.....p.s if you really want that truck to run scrap the chevy motor and put a ford motor in it :wave: ..later

These are the chevy forums, if you want to stir up shit, do it elsewhere.

LAST WARNING

These are the chevy forums, if you want to stir up shit, do it elsewhere.

LAST WARNING
that post was 2 months old lt lol, but thanks for looken out :biggrin:

Meh, deserved to be said anyways.