CV boot

I was told that my cv boot was leaking. What does that mean? what can happen if I don't fix it? Is it an easy fix? Thanks in advance. Arnz

If the cvshaft boot is torn, then at this point you're better off replacing the cv joint as once contamination ensues, they go to shit and break...

If the cvshaft boot is torn, then at this point you're better off replacing the cv joint as once contamination ensues, they go to shit and break...

I disagree, a slightly leaking CV boot can be changed seeing it is really cheap compared to a whole CV assembly.

People are not made of money and replacing an expensive whole CV assembly because a little grease is coming out of the boot is an unnecessary repair. If there is no noise, repacking and replacing the boot will be the perfect thing to do.

CV Boot = $15
CV Joint = $150+

The math is simple.

Yep just like rlith said it is easier if you just replace it..It isn't too bad of a job..roughly about an hour..You can get them at autozone for about $175.00 a piece...I think that is what I paid for mine..Just make sure you get the right side you need because there is a difference between the passenger side and the drivers side...

Yep just like rlith said it is easier if you just replace it..It isn't too bad of a job..roughly about an hour..You can get them at autozone for about $175.00 a piece...I think that is what I paid for mine..Just make sure you get the right side you need because there is a difference between the passenger side and the drivers side...

Must be nice to be made of money.

They have quick boot repair kits for $15 bucks.

Actually around here CV shafts run 65.00 for a complete CV shaft (with a 40 buck core deposit)...Advance auto carries them. Did mine the 1st month I had the truck.

Dumb question here. Where is the CV Boot and CV Joint located on a Jimmy?

Dumb question here. Where is the CV Boot and CV Joint located on a Jimmy?

Because 4x4 GM trucks use an IFS as opposed to a solid axel.

I should have clued in that a 4X4 was being discussed. I have two wheel drive. One less thing I have to worry about. Thanks.

I should have clued in that a 4X4 was being discussed. I have two wheel drive. One less thing I have to worry about. Thanks.

Yeah, most you have to worry about is that stupid carrier bearing on the drive shaft...

You got choices.
Either remove the axel and replace the boots for about $20 each inner and outer or just the one that's torn. This is a messy job with lots of black goo coming out and even more going back in.
Remove the axel and replace it for about $85 + refundable core charge and be done with it.
If the tear isn't too bad, get a needle grease fitting and inject grease into the joint every time you change oil. This will sling more grease all over the bottom of your car and your driveway.
Remember life is about choices.
Personally, I'd just replace the axle or axles, it's not to tough. We did it as part of replacing the ball joints so I don't know if you have to remove the hub or not. If you do check out the ball joints also.
See ya
94

You got choices.
Either remove the axel and replace the boots for about $20 each inner and outer or just the one that's torn. This is a messy job with lots of black goo coming out and even more going back in.
Remove the axel and replace it for about $85 + refundable core charge and be done with it.
If the tear isn't too bad, get a needle grease fitting and inject grease into the joint every time you change oil. This will sling more grease all over the bottom of your car and your driveway.
Remember life is about choices.
Personally, I'd just replace the axle or axles, it's not to tough. We did it as part of replacing the ball joints so I don't know if you have to remove the hub or not. If you do check out the ball joints also.
See ya
94

It is a complete waste of money to replace a whole CV axle for a boot.

Replace the boot and keep driving and keep the money in your pocket.

Only if the CV joint is making noise do you replace it.

Not entirely true... If it is torn it should be replaced. Once it's contaminated with debri you're pretty much hosed.... If it's simply a pin hole leak, yes, I would advocate putting a new boot on as the likelyhood of debri (sand, dirt, et-al) getting in there is pretty low... But if it has more than 1/8th inch gap, it need to be replaced.

Not entirely true... If it is torn it should be replaced. Once it's contaminated with debri you're pretty much hosed.... If it's simply a pin hole leak, yes, I would advocate putting a new boot on as the likelyhood of debri (sand, dirt, et-al) getting in there is pretty low... But if it has more than 1/8th inch gap, it need to be replaced.

1/8th of an inch?

Comon now, that is way too small to allow any grit in there. An inch or more, yes, but only if it has been like that for a while. Grit cannot force its way through outgoing grease and into the CV joint like that.

But if he has a small amount of grease coming out, the chances are that he won't have any grit and dirt coming in.

We just need to stop telling people to replace unneeded parts if they are not showing the tell tale signs of a problem.

If the CV joint is not clicking when turning, don't replace it.

Replace the boot with the new load of CV grease and all will be well.

It's like telling someone to replace the engine because the air intake had a small crack in it allowing unfiltered air into the engine. I know its a rather extreme example, but it is just as extreme as replacing a whole CV assembly because of a small tear in a boot. Boot replacements are there for a reason and for this specific application.

i drove with a torn cv boot for a month replaced it and still now problems your theory is flawd rlith

i drove with a torn cv boot for a month replaced it and still now problems your theory is flawd rlith

Not really, I've seen em blow apart after a week with a torn boot from debri... And any reputable place will tell you to replace the shaft once it's torn... Yes, sometimes you can get lucky and just replace the boot, but personally I'd rather spend the 50-60 bux on a new shaft and not worry about it again or worry about being stuck out in the middle of nowhere with a flopping CV. Your own theory is flawed if you think that just because you went a month and nothing happened that it applies to all situations.

Not really, I've seen em blow apart after a week with a torn boot from debri... And any reputable place will tell you to replace the shaft once it's torn... Yes, sometimes you can get lucky and just replace the boot, but personally I'd rather spend the 50-60 bux on a new shaft and not worry about it again or worry about being stuck out in the middle of nowhere with a flopping CV. Your own theory is flawed if you think that just because you went a month and nothing happened that it applies to all situations.

But you have to understand, having a small tear in the boot will not destroy a CV joint.

Saying you have to replce the whoel thing and put in the time to do this instead of swapping on a 15 dollar boot in is a little neurotic and you have to realise that people are not made of money and telling people to undergo unneeded repairs is unresponsible and is something I would hear from a shady mechanic.

This should be interesting.

A small slice, not necessarily.. I'm talking contamination of the grease. Once debri is in the grease, failure is not long to follow. Face it, unless you inspect them daily, you don't know how long you've been running with a torn boot.

A small slice, not necessarily.. I'm talking contamination of the grease. Once debri is in the grease, failure is not long to follow. Face it, unless you inspect them daily, you don't know how long you've been running with a torn boot.

This is true and I understand your point.

With a boot replacement with the appropriate cleaning and grease replacement will rid the CV of any grit contamination if it is indeed in the grease.

If you replace the grease which you should always do with this small procedure, all should be well.

Don't take my posts as cutting you down, I respect you and your excellent contributions here.

I just want to save people money. I know that sometimes it will not always work, but in this case, no harm will come about from not replacing the whole joint.

Leaking CV boot? There's no fluid to leak. Dirt can get in, but no fluid leaks out. Possibly some grease may be flung out, but that's about it. Better get a second opinion. Depending on the size of the tear, you could use RTV silicone for a 100% effective repair...

Leaking CV boot? There's no fluid to leak. Dirt can get in, but no fluid leaks out. Possibly some grease may be flung out, but that's about it. Better get a second opinion. Depending on the size of the tear, you could use RTV silicone for a 100% effective repair...

The grease will leak out.

Good idea about the rtv sealant, I will try that.

My friend has a leaking boot and doeesn't want to take everything apart to fix it.

so,

I was offroading on the weekend and now the right side tire when I make a hard turn/u turn goes "chunk chunk chunk" but no problem when going straight.

This is the cv boot making the noise right??

Can I drive it sparingly till my next payday??

Is it a hard replacement??

thanks in advance

cc

so,

I was offroading on the weekend and now the right side tire when I make a hard turn/u turn goes "chunk chunk chunk" but no problem when going straight.

This is the cv boot making the noise right??

Can I drive it sparingly till my next payday??

Is it a hard replacement??

thanks in advance

cc

No, sounds like your whole CV joint is shot.

Don't put this off, fix it.