Help out a not so newbie. :)

Guys i used to be into RC when i was about 13 now 10 years later i wanna try get back into the RC scene. But this time instead of the off road buggy (traxxas bandit) i wanna get into onroad drifting and touring.

I've gone through the FAQ and it's very helpful but i've got a couple of questions.

Batteries: It say 1900-3300, whats the difference? Atm i have Trinity Ex.tech Racing cells Nicad 1700mAh, but i'm gonna buy new ones and i wanna make sure i get the right ones for the job. Also any good brands to buy and ones to stay away from?

Motors: Recommends 27t for drifting. But if you join a club for touring the motor dictates for class, doesn't it? So what turns fall into what class. Doesn't more or less turn motors generate more heat and run the batterys down faster? again any good brands to buy and ones to stay away from?

ESC: I've got no clue here. What should i be looking for in a ESC? What brands are considered better?

So for the long post, but it's been so long i've forgotten all i learnt back then. :)

Oh i'm thinking of the Yokomo 180sx Drifter kit, If i adjust shocks, tires and motor can this be used for touring and be competitive?

Batteries: Those numbers are the capacity: 1900 milliamp hours. The higher the number, the longer it runs. With the new NiMH cells you need a charger that can handle them, so look for that when buying.

Motors: Almost every club/track has a 'stock' class for the 27 turn motors. Less turns mean more RPM and speed, but more wear and less run time. The stock motors today are light years ahead of those 10 years ago. Trinity, Reedy, and Orion/Peak are good brands.

ESC: ESC's today are all pretty good. The best brands are Novak and LRP, and I like Futaba's ESCs as well. You might want to consider one with reverse if it won't be just for racing. Basically find one that fits your budget, but doesn't limit you in the motors you can use down the road.

Car: I don't know that I would recommend that, for a couple of reasons. First is parts availability: The Yokomo parts might not be in all shops, and it's no fun waiting a week or more to fix a broken car. It's also easier to make a regular race car a drifter than vice-versa (A set of tires made from PVC or ABS piping and you're basically there). The Yokomo might make an OK race car, but there are for sure better ones on the market (Associated TC4 for example)

I would recommend seeing what brands your local shop stocks, and get one of those cars.

Well I've just found out that the local store has started importing Yokomo products into SA. Thats why i'm considering the Yokomo. I'm kinda weighing up between the TC3 (or even 4), Yokomo Drifter, and the TL01.

But the Yokomo drifter is basically a slight mod on thier touring car so it should be cool. Plus the 180sx body it has is just so hot.

And my charger can do 4-9 cells 270mAh-4500mAh Nicad or Nickel Metal Hydride batts so i'm pretty much sorted there.

Im not too familiar with the car you mentioned. Personally I like the Tamiya TA02 chassis. It's a solid platform and parts are easy to come by.
Next for an ESC: any of the big names are good (as mentioned before). If you buy a ESC that will handle below 20 turns that's when it's time to open up your wallet. Lower the better though - for later on (the higher the frequency the better,too).
Motors: All big names are good. Personally I dont spend alot of money on any one motor. Try to get a few lined up (make sure you have a stock 27, though) and take care of them the best you can. It has been my experience that expensive motors go to junk as fast (if not faster) than the cheap ones and you end up milling the comms and replacing brushes anyway.
Batteries: Here's the real heart of it all. The higher the number the longer they last...but I have also noticed that my better batteries have more punch, and keep it longer. GP and Sanyo cells are excellent. I have been told by many people that batteries win races and it's true.

My recommendations:
car- yokomo cgm or tamiya tbo2 or tc4 or wait for the tao5 , dont get a tlo1

esc- novak xrs or lrp ai pro reverse - best quality/price

motor- 23t tamiya type rz or 27t monster stock

batts- gp3300 or sanyo 3600 stick unassembled,zapped, etc

charger - lrp pulsar competition or pitbull x3

controller - futabe 2pl -best price/quality

Get an Xmod before you get a MINI-Z.... First Mini-Z's caost $150 and an XMMOD costs $50. They are the same scal 1/28TH scale. The xmod has AWD and the mini-z dosen't. If you don't like the XMOPDS then buy a mini-z or go with 1/10TH or whatever you want to......