New 15" sub

Alrighty....

Now that I've pretty much decided to sell my RF to the first sucker that will buy it, I'm looking at subs made by companies on the highly recommended list (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=382679) on ebay in the $120 price range. I think for now I'm going to stick with my amp for now, even though it's not as good other stuff out there. It seemed to provide enough power to the RF, and didn't even get warm.


So far I've found this SOUNDSTREAM Edge II EG-15X:

http://www.mobilesoundworks.com/images/soundstream_eg15x_3.jpg (http://www.soundstream.co.nz/prod_sub_edg2.htm)
(the pic's also a link to their website)

I'm hoping it will be more sound quality oriented, like the RE SE. I found a RE SX for like $200+, but those are the lower end SPL subs, right?

I was also considering Xtant, like something from the A series, that's round and will fit in my flush mounted box. Any other sites or people I can get a SQ 15" sub from for around $120 shipped?

well..

#1 soundstream isn't even on the highly recommended list, and

#2 i think they're on the good list for amps not subs or anything else (since they are famous for making amps) but since pa bought them out their amps are crappier now

#3 are u going for pure sq? or u want an spl driver? or u want something that sounds good and gets loud also?

#4 how much power does your amp make? please state the rms, and at what impedance

1- Oh right, I was thinking sound splinter.

2- I didn't really find any amps from them on ebay, so I guess they're out.

3- I would say 75% SQ and 25% SQL. I like to run with it so I can feel the bass through my seat a little, but no so much my insides and head hurt.

4- It claims 200 watts rms per channel @ 4 ohms, and like 350 watts @ 2 ohms. Bridged it does 1000 watts rms @ 4 ohms and a little less at 8 ohms.


So do any decent SQ subs even exist for around $120?

So do any decent SQ subs even exist for around $120?

yeah, but they won't be able to get very loud

Image Dynamics ID
Arc KAR (basically the same as the ID, it's even made by ID)
Adire Shiva (if you can find one used or if you're willing to wait until they're up and running again)

Yeah, not too sure on the Soundstream subs. Their amps were the things to get years ago but I haven't really seen much about it lately.

1- Oh right, I was thinking sound splinter.

2- I didn't really find any amps from them on ebay, so I guess they're out.

3- I would say 75% SQ and 25% SQL. I like to run with it so I can feel the bass through my seat a little, but no so much my insides and head hurt.

4- It claims 200 watts rms per channel @ 4 ohms, and like 350 watts @ 2 ohms. Bridged it does 1000 watts rms @ 4 ohms and a little less at 8 ohms.


So do any decent SQ subs even exist for around $120?

well.. judging from the specs of ur amp, its probably making 700RMS @ 4 ohm when bridged, but i've never heard of that brand and for the price that is boasting quite a bit of power

and well.. you'll rarely run a sub at 8 ohms anywhere out of home audio so u shouldn't really worry about that

$120 isn't a great budget when looking for SQ subs

u can get the image dynamics IDQ10 from sounddomain for $136 shipped, but it will not get that loud

i say try to increase your budget, you won't regret it

So I found an old post somewhere that said RE SE 15 (http://www.reaudio.com)'s are $185 shipped? I'm almost willing to do that. Would it work in my box (~3.25 cubes sealed)? I can't remember the conversion from liters to cubic feet. The Vas is the spec that determines box size, right? They say 209 (liters, I think) for the SE 15. Are there any dealers online or do I have to call direct?

So I found an old post somewhere that said RE SE 15 (http://www.reaudio.com)'s are $185 shipped? I'm almost willing to do that. Would it work in my box (~3.25 cubes sealed)? I can't remember the conversion from liters to cubic feet. The Vas is the spec that determines box size, right? They say 209 (liters, I think) for the SE 15. Are there any dealers online or do I have to call direct?

Bold part is incorrect.

That box would work well sealed. I'd look into the RE SE 15 or the Ascendant Audio Atlas. Either would work well, and would be worth the spring. Too bad sounsplinter doesn't make an RL-i 15...it would work perfect for your application, I love the TC2+...amazing motor/design. peace

NG

I remember someone explained what all the different specs indicated, but I don't remember where. If someone could go through them catagorically, I'll format all of it and add them to the newbie thread for all to see with your name in big bold letters :).

Here's the SE's tech sheet with most of the standard things:
http://www.reaudio.com/html/images/se_ts.gif

if ur lucky, you do not live near a RE dealer, then u can get it direct, if you buy from a dealer, the prices are rediculous

unfortunately for me, i live 40 min away from a dealer, and the subs prices are very high non-direct, re said they can't sell direct to me and referred me to that stupid dealer

I hope they don't have any dealers in New England then... I'll try sending them an email and see what they say. Their website seems to be outdated...

I remember someone explained what all the different specs indicated, but I don't remember where. If someone could go through them catagorically, I'll format all of it and add them to the newbie thread for all to see with your name in big bold letters :).

Here's the SE's tech sheet with most of the standard things:
http://www.reaudio.com/html/images/se_ts.gif

The VAS is the volume of air that has the same compliance as the speaker's suspension. It has a lot to do with what box size you should use, but it's not the only spec that determines it.

Oh, so it's like Volume of Airspace complementing the Suspension. My offer is still good if you want to be featured in the newbie thread for the other spec things...

all you need to do is a quick google search and you can find out what every T/S param represents and how to interpret it.

OK, I'll just make one up then... and put my name in :p...

Why I was asking was this: You guys know all this stuff off the top of your head, so I thought I'd divide and conquer... you write the matterial, and I'll format it. But whatever, I'll probably learn more this way anyway :)

I seen on Adire's website that they are going to dealers too ... no more direct sales.

I seen on Adire's website that they are going to dealers too ... no more direct sales.

Interesting...

NG

I've heard that too, but it's no biggie. They're still going to have the online dealers that they have now (a-v, va, ss, etc), they just won't have their own store. I've bought ~$1100 of Adire equipment and I haven't got any of it through their store, I got all of it from a-v, so it won't be any different for me.

it think it is gay of RE to not sell direct and make you buy from a dealer when their direct prices are BETTER than dealer prices....they probably make less money by selling to a dealer....

Did you get your components direct, CB?

yes, but i dont have an RE dealer near me, so it doesnt matter. but during the group buy it was all direct...

Well, on your decision for which sub (Atlas or SE)...IMHO the SE will have more output ;)

NG

That's what I figured, thanks for confirming it.

It's mostly going to come down to the output vs price vs SQ ratios... I don't know how much an SE 15 costs yet (if you know, please do tell!), so it's hard to compare them at the moment.

have you called RE? atlas would be 160 plus shipping which shouldnt be over $20

Well, I sent them an email... I may try calling them tomorrow. I'm not sure if I'm going to buy one just yet, though... I hate phones, and prefer to do most communication through email. It annoys me when companies don't tell me how much their products cost, especially when they have such an awesome product.

Well, I sent them an email... I may try calling them tomorrow. I'm not sure if I'm going to buy one just yet, though... I hate phones, and prefer to do most communication through email. It annoys me when companies don't tell me how much their products cost, especially when they have such an awesome product.

I was quoted at $185 shipped for an SE15 today to ohio...

NG

mmm.... tempting... very tempting... almost the same price, except one is DVC and not XBL^2, and the other is SVC and XBL^2... am I going to notice a difference in sound quality? I enjoy it a little loud, but not so much that the rest of the world can feel it. I've heard guys go by and make the floor shake, and I have no desire to do that. At the my volumes, it's barely audible outside the car (when it's closed up anyway). I'm leaning toward the SE because of the reputation (half the regulars here have (or had) and love(d) them).


Hahahaha... NG's sig = :bigthumb:

mmm.... tempting... very tempting... almost the same price, except one is DVC and not XBL^2, and the other is SVC and XBL^2... am I going to notice a difference in sound quality? I enjoy it a little loud, but not so much that the rest of the world can feel it. I've heard guys go by and make the floor shake, and I have no desire to do that. At the my volumes, it's barely audible outside the car (when it's closed up anyway). I'm leaning toward the SE because of the reputation (half the regulars here have (or had) and love(d) them).


Hahahaha... NG's sig = :bigthumb:

Damn you kids actually READ signatures on a regular basis...WOW...lol

But, my pic would be the SE...that's just me...
And, in the same install...i doubt you would notice a difference in SQ...

NG

Hehe... well, I was watching your mini flame war with CB in his thread, and thought it was funny... Is mine too big? On my old computer forum, everyone had cool looking sigs like it, but it's not common here at all.

Hehe... well, I was watching your mini flame war with CB in his thread, and thought it was funny... Is mine too big? On my old computer forum, everyone had cool looking sigs like it, but it's not common here at all.

Personally, I don't like sig banners too much. IF I do make one it's small...and temporary...

NG

hehe, im pissed at everything right now. if you are worried about SQ differnece just because the SE doesnt have XBL^2, though XBL^2 is a good thing it doesnt mean regular Over hung designs cant make the same low distortion, just seal in a larger enclsore for a lower Q, because the SE can be wired to 2ohm you can get twice the power as the atlas, oh and at the volumes you are describing it sounds like you dont listen to your music a whole lot louder than what most stock radios can do before distoring to where i cant stand it, so really you dont even need near 600wRMS on it. the SE set ups ive heard are sound great, w6v2 great, and they are sapposed to be very sensitive drivers so, i think it would be the option for you.
oh, and i had an idea for thoes who live near an RE dealer, have it shipped to some one like me ore Nsgm13 who can get factory direct then we will send it out to you...maybe an extra $30 but from what ive heard dealers mark up like crazy.

That seems like a good idea CB... RE suggests 2.0 cubes for sealing the SE 15, do you think 3.25 cubes is too much? I'm still not sure exactly how to calculate the optimal box volume based on the specs. As far as my listening levels go, I want to be able to crank it a little (like 110 db) for short periods of time to show off, but 95% of the time it won't be too loud. I wanna keep my hearing :)

After hearing what my amp sounds like cranked a little, I'm seriously starting to doubt that it will sound any better than the RF if I have an SE hooked up. So what amps for around $100 are good with SE's?

That seems like a good idea CB... RE suggests 2.0 cubes for sealing the SE 15, do you think 3.25 cubes is too much? I'm still not sure exactly how to calculate the optimal box volume based on the specs. As far as my listening levels go, I want to be able to crank it a little (like 110 db) for short periods of time to show off, but 95% of the time it won't be too loud. I wanna keep my hearing :)

After hearing what my amp sounds like cranked a little, I'm seriously starting to doubt that it will sound any better than the RF if I have an SE hooked up. So what amps for around $100 are good with SE's?

Personally i don't think it's too much...what is your current amp...or are you getting a new one?!?! RMS Ratings @ what (ohms wise)...

NG

It claims 200 watts rms per channel @ 4 ohms, and like 350 watts @ 2 ohms. Bridged it does 1000 watts rms @ 4 ohms and a little less at 8 ohms.

Had that up above... I probably technically has enough power, I just don't think it will sound as nice as a cadence or profile of the same price on an SE. I'm thinking of selling both amp and sub together for $150 if someone will go for it.

Had that up above... I probably technically has enough power, I just don't think it will sound as nice as a cadence or profile of the same price on an SE. I'm thinking of selling both amp and sub together for $150 if someone will go for it.

Good idea, are you sure those ratings are even claimed RMS ??!

NG

Well, I'm kinda making up the 2 ohm rms rating (because it says 500 max watts at 2 ohms), but it says 200 at 4 ohms, and 1000 watts at 4 ohms bridged. The website is here (http://www.soundstormlab.com/), but mine is apparently an older model. You have to go to the specs page, not the products page to find the info. It's a pdf file, which is kinda annoying too. I doubt I'm getting more than 450 watts rms bridged right now, and it's not terribly clean. I don't don't know what a clipped signal sounds like, but I might be doing that too. My gains are pretty conservatively set, I think.

3.25cuft gives a Qtc of 0.86 which is right around optimal for most cars as far as a flat responce goes. and with 450w you should get a (projected) 32mm P2P...not to shabby. you will be more than able to reach 110dB. probably high 120's.
it will also give an F3 of 35Hz and an atlas in the same sized enclsore with a High Qtc setting has an F3 of 36.5Hz....not a huge difference but watt for watt the atlas (projected by crap hole WinISD) will be louder than the SE from ~40Hz on up.
however, projected SPL in an open environment with the estimated wattage the SE and the atlas will be getting the atlas will only be 1dB louder from 50-80Hz...the SE will provide better low end extension.

now granted WinISD is in an openenvironment and everything predictied can be thrown out the window when you put the sub in a vehicle. but it will give you a slight idea. i say go for the SE, and keep the amp you have now unless you can afford to get a new,better one and an SE.

Excellent sweetness! I'm liking all that info :). The SE it is, then.

Now I just have to deaden the heck out of my doors and trunk. Does Home Depot have anything that works for deadening and is dirt cheap? I'd rather not have foil or other shiny stuff in my trunk... black matte surface or carpet would be nice. Would expansion foam injected under carpet (screwed/glued in place) work? I'd like to keep it as light as possible too, for better mileage and less wear on the shocks (CT is very bumpy). Dynamat would be nice, but it's waaaaay too expensive.

3.25cuft gives a Qtc of 0.86 which is right around optimal for most cars as far as a flat responce goes. and with 450w you should get a (projected) 32mm P2P...not to shabby. you will be more than able to reach 110dB. probably high 120's.
it will also give an F3 of 35Hz and an atlas in the same sized enclsore with a High Qtc setting has an F3 of 36.5Hz....not a huge difference but watt for watt the atlas (projected by crap hole WinISD) will be louder than the SE from ~40Hz on up.
however, projected SPL in an open environment with the estimated wattage the SE and the atlas will be getting the atlas will only be 1dB louder from 50-80Hz...the SE will provide better low end extension.

now granted WinISD is in an openenvironment and everything predictied can be thrown out the window when you put the sub in a vehicle. but it will give you a slight idea. i say go for the SE, and keep the amp you have now unless you can afford to get a new,better one and an SE.

Except for the Qtc's...take absolutely all information in the above post as a grain of salt...

NG

Well, as long as you agree with him as far as my box working with an SE 15.

Except for the Qtc's...take absolutely all information in the above post as a grain of salt...

NG


now granted WinISD is in an openenvironment and everything predictied can be thrown out the window when you put the sub in a vehicle.

:banghead:

You two hate each other, don't you?

Except for the Qtc's...take absolutely all information in the above post as a grain of salt...

NG
Ditto/\/\/\/\/\

That is why I build enclosures for the subs and for the vehicle at the same time.

As far as sound deadening goes, goto your local NAPA store. They should have Dynomat simular stuff that's cheaper. Also, look into rubberized undercoating. That works wonders on the inside of body panels. If you want to go real cheap like on the trunk lid, go crazy with the rubberized undercoating then get some trunk carpet and carpet the lid to coverup the coating you have on there. Spray foam works very well too but be carefull. If you put too much in areas, it will actually bend metal as it expands! Also, when spraying the rubber stuff inside doors, make sure NOT to plug drain holes. That'll just make the doors rot quicker than they already are.

doors dont rot in florida unless you go muddin... :)

I haven't figured out how to get my door panels off, so do you have any ideas how to protect the sensitve areas while the panels are still partially attatched? The trunk won't be a problem, I think. I've pulled all the carpetting out of there easily before. I'll have to do some experiments with expansion foam... I think that inside some plastic (so I can control where it goes) might be the best option for the doors. I'll just have to work on how to secure it.

fuck a sealed box port that sumbitch at 30hz. I don't like sealed SE 15's they sound better to me ported.

I wish I could, but I don't have enough space for a ported 15 in my trunk. Those 3.25 cubes fill it pretty much all the way already. Would 3.25 cubes be enough for porting? I would be willing to modify my current box, if it's possible. If I were to send you my box design, could you (or someone else here, for that matter) tell me how long to make the ports? I know next to nothing about ported box design, and I don't want to start from scratch again for at least a couple of months.

Oh, I just found a copy of BassBox Pro 6 on the net... I'll fiddle around in there and see what I come up with :naughty: :evillol:

Woo hoo...

http://dce.ath.cx/images/sealvsport.jpg

3.5 cubes net to port

try to find a more in depth guide to your car, i have a haynes [i think thats the brand] guide to mine it tells you how to strip the care for the most part. my panels are a bitch to get off. but yea id go check out the local auto stores and find a manual, look through it and try to find the door panel removal instructions, read them, memorize them, and then you good to go.

ya, did you ever go pick up one of thoes manuals? mine was $15 plus tax at discount auto parts and it tells everythng about tearing apart my interior.