J-spec DP's vs. Split DP's vs. Super Splits DP's

ok...i havent started a new thread in a while...and i have some things i need to work out in my head...

ok...dilemma #1 is DP's

J-Spec DP's are just an open piece of piping that comes down from the turbo...better than US spec Downpipes which are very restrictive.

Split DP's are an older style DP for the Z32...these seperate the exhaust flow coming right off the turbo which essentially causes less restriction from air spinning and mixing right on back of the turbo trhough a bend.

Super Splits are a relatively new design of DP's for the Z32. they cost a little more than the regualr Splits probably because of the newness. the seperate the exhaust off the turbos even more which effectively adds HP and Torque.

ok the question is, are the aftermarket DP's really worth the money at this point in my project (most of you probably already know what it is)...

i was thinking for speed and money's sake i should stick with the J-spec DP's until next winter when i upgrade the turbos because i will have to buy new DP's anyways because i will be moving to a 5 bolt turbo instead of the stock 4.
plus, my N/A testpipes will bolt right up to the J-Spec DP's which would help me move my project along without waiting on money for parts. so while im putting in the motor i can be saving money for testpipes. in result making my car driveable much sooner...well i obviously already have my mind kinda made up but i want some of your guys opinions.

another question, i have read recently i have to cut down my AC condensor thingy up front to make more room for the IC piping. how come i am just now hearing this??? and does anyone know what it takes to cut down that thing and re-weld back together.

there are a bunch of things that keep popping up that i need or that is goign to take more time than i expected...

things i didnt know about or didnt plan...
-the AC condesor thingy up front needs cut
-AC lines are different between TT and N/A, so i need to find some TT lines
-Speed Sensors are different between 5-speed and automatic and TT and N/A so i need to find me a used N/A/5-speed sensor

nothing big accept the whole cutting the AC cooler up front kinda scares me. :D

anyways, i guess this turned out to be more of a [listen to me rant and also try answering my questions] kind of post...:lol:

lol yeah i think u lady have a idea what your gunna pick, but in my pinion i thnk u should just go with the j-spec DP's for now and then upgrade those when u do the turbos like u said
and about all those little "didnt knows" yeah it sux and youll probably run into a few more but just think, u goin through this will help everyone including myself when we finally do the swap
and as faras the A/C condensor u could either just have a local shop weld it up nice or couldnt u just get a TT condensor ?
hope it all works out. good luck

http://www.specialtyz.com/images/newvsoldgraph.jpg

i'd say go with the super split dp's... they should fit the sport 500's or 600's.. whichever you decide to go with (go 600!!!)

those along with some iconel(sp?) manifolds, you should have an almost lagless system with the 500's... maybe full boost by 3g with the 600's? either way, it'll be fucking sick

the basic formula for engine swaps, or any sort of major work, is take your original time, cut it in half, and add that to the original amount of time you thought it'd take.... same for money:p

lol yeah i think u lady have a idea what your gunna pick, but in my pinion i thnk u should just go with the j-spec DP's for now and then upgrade those when u do the turbos like u said
and about all those little "didnt knows" yeah it sux and youll probably run into a few more but just think, u goin through this will help everyone including myself when we finally do the swap
and as faras the A/C condensor u could either just have a local shop weld it up nice or couldnt u just get a TT condensor ?
hope it all works out. good luck

about the AC condensor...i read its mounted higher up so i think it would be more work to swap in the TT with custom brackets and what not. and about the custom shops, thats the problem, we dont have alot of those around here. and i dont really know who i should call...we have a custom sheet metal place that i think would be my best bet, eventhough they work with sheetmetal, im sure they can hook me up if they arent d***heads...

i hope i dont find many more little things that i didnt know about or didnt think about come up...its dipping right into my wheel & tire/big brake kit/laptop/Z32 general upgrades money!!! :D

http://www.specialtyz.com/images/newvsoldgraph.jpg

i'd say go with the super split dp's... they should fit the sport 500's or 600's.. whichever you decide to go with (go 600!!!)

those along with some iconel(sp?) manifolds, you should have an almost lagless system with the 500's... maybe full boost by 3g with the 600's? either way, it'll be fucking sick

the basic formula for engine swaps, or any sort of major work, is take your original time, cut it in half, and add that to the original amount of time you thought it'd take.... same for money:p

i think all thats coming next winter...im gonna hold off on the super splits until i can upgrade my turbos. im hoping JWT will come out with something bigger than the 530BB but smaller than the 700BB but still Ball Bearing...that would be ideal but i will probably end up with the 530BB but im also looking at the HKSGT2530's and the Z1 GT625RS's.

Since I don't know for sure, check the J-spec pipes to make sure they clear the steering column. If I remember correctly, they won't. Which would make your decision alot easier.

JWT sport 600's!!! not bb, but they'd be perfect...

JWT sport 600's!!! not bb, but they'd be perfect...

but if im not going BB then id rather have the Z1 GT675RS's which is supposed to be liek the "disco potatos" eexcept modified a little to compensate for the lack of displacement to spool the turbos. 1.5L per turbo makes the disco's kinda of obselete i guess...

and broke...i was told by a few people to leave the J-specs with the N/A mid pipes and i will have a nice free flowing exhaust and i just checked the Z1 write-up and it also says to use the J-specs...

Z1 also sells the J-spec downpipes so they must fit without clearance issues but i do see where that may come into play. i will have to further research the issue later. i need to call Z1 sometime next week to order some stuff so i will ask then...

also, did you or are you buying the super-splits or the regular splits??? i assume super-splits if you havent ordered them yet...also, can you tell me how restrictive the stock exhaust manifolds are and at my "complete bolt-on" goal for this summer, is it even worth paying the money to get a set ported???

and broke...i was told by a few people to leave the J-specs with the N/A mid pipes and i will have a nice free flowing exhaust and i just checked the Z1 write-up and it also says to use the J-specs...

Z1 also sells the J-spec downpipes so they must fit without clearance issues but i do see where that may come into play. i will have to further research the issue later. i need to call Z1 sometime next week to order some stuff so i will ask then...

also, did you or are you buying the super-splits or the regular splits??? i assume super-splits if you havent ordered them yet...also, can you tell me how restrictive the stock exhaust manifolds are and at my "complete bolt-on" goal for this summer, is it even worth paying the money to get a set ported???

Between the US ones and the Japanese ones I have sitting in my garage, I can say they looked different enough to warrant mentitioning. Anyway, as for down pipes. Well lets see. I can order the ones that make power or the ones that make more power. What was you're question now?

AND, as for ported stocks. Take a look inside there then look at the outside. There isn't too much you can take off, the porting work would mostly just be knocking off some of the sharper edges that stick out. Actual power gains? Probably 15 hp. Worth it? Your call.

Between the US ones and the Japanese ones I have sitting in my garage, I can say they looked different enough to warrant mentitioning. Anyway, as for down pipes. Well lets see. I can order the ones that make power or the ones that make more power. What was you're question now?

AND, as for ported stocks. Take a look inside there then look at the outside. There isn't too much you can take off, the porting work would mostly just be knocking off some of the sharper edges that stick out. Actual power gains? Probably 15 hp. Worth it? Your call.

ok thanks broke...that helps alot. and as for the downpipe question, i thought you might have already purchases your downpipes before the super-splits were for sale.

15hp is probably worth it...it probably has alot to do with how my financial situation is after i have ordered all the must haves and more important upgrades.

well it's not like you need to put them on RIGHT NOW.... i'd just wait till you have the funds to install em... sure it'll be a bit more of a pain, but might as well run with the j-spec dp's while you have them..... you do have the j-specs right?

well it's not like you need to put them on RIGHT NOW.... i'd just wait till you have the funds to install em... sure it'll be a bit more of a pain, but might as well run with the j-spec dp's while you have them..... you do have the j-specs right?

not yet but they are in transit with my motor...:D

but yeah, i think i will go ahead and get the manifolds ported because i want to get my upper plenum beed blasted, honed, and powder coated anyways. might as well take them both in...probably get the lower plenum done too. hell, might as well get the turbos rebuilt too!!! :lol:

"Might as well"?

I started doing that and now, one year and some $10,000 later, I'm still waiting to drive my car.

"Might as well" is bad for you.

"Might as well"?

I started doing that and now, one year and some $10,000 later, I'm still waiting to drive my car.

"Might as well" is bad for you.

yeah...i noticed that myself very quickly. i started making a list and it started with a few basic things and then i ended up with about 25 "might as well" things. ehhh...i guess its part of owning a Z.

it seems to happen with every project... mine were mostly oh damn i guess i need this to do it the right way, not might as wells.... my project that i had laid out for my integra was going to cost over 13 grand w/o the engine... so i said screw it i want a Z... which will probably end up costing me double that anyway lol

Progression of "Might as well":

Need a new engine for whatever reason.

Okay, drop the stock and you're good.

But since it's out anyway you might as well do the whole underdrive pulley ($200), flywheel($450) and down/testpipe(~$800) trip to go with your stage 3 upgrades that you've already done (and you know you have). That way you don't have to take anything major apart. And I can replace the water pump and all that ($300)...get that 60k service out of the way while the engine is till out.

But...it's not that much work to pull the turbos off and put in some ported exhaust manifolds ($400)...and you can change the turbo gaskets while they're off...so...might as well.

And hell, since those are going to be off, no since risking your motor to old fuel injectors and sensors...and 555/615cc($900) NISMOs aren't that expensive, that way I can run over 15psi of boost and be covered that way too. And since I need a new ECU chip anyway I might as well get that dual intake kit($400)...

Well since the upper plenum is off...I could pop a set of those mild street cams($600) that will work with the stock springs in there...thats got to be 20hp or better...

It's going to be running hot enough now I should probably put in an oil cooler($200) and radiator($400)...those look slick anyways...besides, it's build up work I would have to do anyway...

Huh...those valve springs look kind of old...better replace them...then I can upgrade($300)! Shit, with some heavy duty springs I can get those high lift cams too($1000)!

But that means I got the heads off...so...might as well do the whole gasket set ($300). Hmm...those pistons don't look that bad...but since all this work is going to take a while anyway I could probably get them heat coated($200).

But fuck, why risk it? Set of forged pistons with heat coat isn't much more ($800).

Better get some forged rods too ($500)

Oh yeah and got to pay some one for all this...($750)

Hmm...those guys got some pretty good numbers on their ported heads...wonder how much that costs...well...maybe just a 3 angle job ($300).

Nah...better get them ported and honed ($600).

Oh yeah...and honed intake plenums to go with ($750).

Well...this thing is pretty solidly built now...be a shame to slap some stock turbos on there...so much more potential...($2500 or more, usually more)

DAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN! Look at the dyno charts with those inconel manifolds...shit? $1875? Is that all? SOLD!




I guess you get the idea...

jesus... that makes me sick in so many ways lol... those manifolds would take me 2 solid months of saving alone....

but i still have a question how much did all that come to?

thats how my car sounds except i have my plans stretched over 2 winters since i got a late start...

well its definitely gonna be one of the top 50 Z32's in the coutnry once your done. just a matter of getting it done. just imagine how much mroe money you have to spend onc the motor is done...

-JDM taillights ($400+)
-JDM Fascia ($600+)
-kick ass stereo system for those screaming techno trips on the highway ($500+)
-new 2-tone leather seats w/ matching pieces for the dash and such ($500+)
-maybe a nice set of volk wheels or some other lightweight 3-piece wheel company w/ tires ($3000+)
-more suspension mods all around (???)
-Big Brake Kit ($700+)
-roll cage just in case (???)


well thats my list for you...i know you have shown interest in more than most of those things so i figure sooner or later you will have them. :lol:

Well I wasn't going down my personal list up there but...yeah...most of that stuff is on it.

As for your list, no offense but:

-JDM taillights ($400+) - Only would be done with a complete JDM make over...and thats not going to happen

-JDM Fascia ($600+) - See above

-kick ass stereo system for those screaming techno trips on the highway ($500+) - Maybe...not that much money though. Just pull the stock speakers and fit some 6x9s or something in the brackets. I'm no audiophile. My headunit and amp are under the hood and the speakers you'll find in the back.

-new 2-tone leather seats w/ matching pieces for the dash and such ($500+) - Uh...no, I'll repair that one corner of my drivers seat where the seat foam can be seen...but thats about it. If I ever had to get new seats I would just get another set of black leather pieces. At the very most I would get a silver "Z" sewn into them.

-maybe a nice set of volk wheels or some other lightweight 3-piece wheel company w/ tires ($3000+) - Only reason I would upgrade the rims is to fit wider tires or bigger brakes. You can get a Wilwood kit that fits the stock rims and my beliefs on tires run "Better over bigger".

-more suspension mods all around (???) - Urethane bushings and maybe some sway bars are on the list. Might get some Eibach springs if the bushings aren't enough for me.

-Big Brake Kit ($700+) - Brembo rotors, metal pads and steel lines. Thats about it. If I find myself standing on the brakes at 150 and just not slowing down fast enough then I might upgrade to the aforementioned Wilwood kit that fits the stock rims.

-roll cage just in case (???) - Highly doubtful.

Basically I'm building the most useless thing in the world: a hopped up street car. Not safe enough to race, not drivable enough to cruise with.

Well I wasn't going down my personal list up there but...yeah...most of that stuff is on it.

As for your list, no offense but:

-JDM taillights ($400+) - Only would be done with a complete JDM make over...and thats not going to happen

-JDM Fascia ($600+) - See above

-kick ass stereo system for those screaming techno trips on the highway ($500+) - Maybe...not that much money though. Just pull the stock speakers and fit some 6x9s or something in the brackets. I'm no audiophile. My headunit and amp are under the hood and the speakers you'll find in the back.

-new 2-tone leather seats w/ matching pieces for the dash and such ($500+) - Uh...no, I'll repair that one corner of my drivers seat where the seat foam can be seen...but thats about it. If I ever had to get new seats I would just get another set of black leather pieces. At the very most I would get a silver "Z" sewn into them.

-maybe a nice set of volk wheels or some other lightweight 3-piece wheel company w/ tires ($3000+) - Only reason I would upgrade the rims is to fit wider tires or bigger brakes. You can get a Wilwood kit that fits the stock rims and my beliefs on tires run "Better over bigger".

-more suspension mods all around (???) - Urethane bushings and maybe some sway bars are on the list. Might get some Eibach springs if the bushings aren't enough for me.

-Big Brake Kit ($700+) - Brembo rotors, metal pads and steel lines. Thats about it. If I find myself standing on the brakes at 150 and just not slowing down fast enough then I might upgrade to the aforementioned Wilwood kit that fits the stock rims.

-roll cage just in case (???) - Highly doubtful.

Basically I'm building the most useless thing in the world: a hopped up street car. Not safe enough to race, not drivable enough to cruise with.

:lol: i figured a few of things you wouldnt like but that was my list for your car if i owned it. :D

anyways, i think you should get the JDM tails but its your car so do whateevr you like. i just think the green would look sweet with them.

as for wheels, they were nice on my car but i really never liked them liked them. they were too big and shiny for my style. this time i am going with an 18" wheel kind of the same style but more of a performance oriented wheel so when i get my big brake kit, it will all fit like a glove. :D

anyways good luck broke...it sounds like it is going to be the best a Z32TT can do for being a sleeper...eventhough its not your typical sleeper car. :lol:

I would have to see the J tails with the J turn signals. No since clearing the back if you still got Kodak yellow up front.

And even though with a car like the Z (utterly timeless world class style that is mistaken for a car of ten times it's price tag) it's hard to be a sleeper. But actually, even with the hood open, you'd have to know what you were looking for to discern my car from stock. There is the Borla pipes in the back, the A-pillar boost guage and the Brembo rotors in the wheels. Thats just about all you'll be able to see. Under the hood all you'll really be able to see is the oversized radiator but even then it will mostly blend in and appear stock.

Although I must admit, these rims are pretty sweet:

http://twinturbo.net/ttnetrides/rides.aspx?user_id=727

I would have to see the J tails with the J turn signals. No since clearing the back if you still got Kodak yellow up front.

And even though with a car like the Z (utterly timeless world class style that is mistaken for a car of ten times it's price tag) it's hard to be a sleeper. But actually, even with the hood open, you'd have to know what you were looking for to discern my car from stock. There is the Borla pipes in the back, the A-pillar boost guage and the Brembo rotors in the wheels. Thats just about all you'll be able to see. Under the hood all you'll really be able to see is the oversized radiator but even then it will mostly blend in and appear stock.

exactly...

and about clearing the front...you could always buy those clear turn signals for the US spec front bumper. they look pretty nice in there...i had them in mine until i went for the whole JDM fascia. either way, your gonna have one bad ass car and i wish you the best of luck.

and yes those volk te-37's in white do look great on the green!!!