Check out my new custom system install with sound dampening!!

I just finished my sound system a week ago. I posted tons of pcitures and did a write up at cardomain. It sounds pretty sweet. I did EVERYTHING myself. I designed/built/payed/installed all myself. It took about 4 weeks to do. I wanted to keep it clean but still have be able to put long items into my car with ease. Let me know what you think.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/turbolaxx

nicely done, i love the amp rack

Looks great Nice and clean.

Very nice! Do you know how dark your tint is? Your page motivated me to take my car apart and sound deaden everything lol

Much better than the first setup. I like it!!

Nice and clean, great work!

Now put some springs on that bad boy, its ridin like a mack truck lol

Thanks for your comments guys!

icE_x my tint came with the car. When i had it inspected, it was registering about 18. Less than 20 is illegal in Texas but i had a nice guy that let me pass anyways.


CivicHBSi91 - lol yeah i know my car looks like a monster truck. I plan on lowering it after i swap the motor. I'll prob drop it 1.5 - 2 inches. I dont know how low the car can sit on 18's but i'll find out eventually.

Wow nice work! I’ve been planning to do something like that myself; I just keep putting it off. Can you hear a difference when driving? & what’s 1/2" MDF, is it particle board? I thought of using ¼” plywood for my trunk floor. Also what made you decide to use Thermozite? Is it better then dynamat or just less expensive? Again, nice work bro! :thumbsup:

alfonso2501 - Yeah i can hear the difference when driving. I always listen to my music at a reasonable level or a little louder then normal. Before i did the install i could hear my engine rev at 4000rpm over the music. Now i cant hear my engine at all when i have my music going. MDF is NOT particle board. MDF stand for medium density fiberboard. It's more dense and stronger then fiberboard. Check this site for lots of good info on MDF:
http://www.lungster.com/l/speakers/mdffaq/mdf.html#Q1

I used thermozite because it's only 1/2 thick and like a very dense carpet. I had problems cutting it with good scissors. Plus it was only $8.50 a yard. All i needed was 2 yards. The thermozite had a aluminum surface on one side. I put that side against the floor with silicone caulking to hold it on place. Dynamat is great but i cant afford $100's for the name brand.

Dynamat is great but i cant afford $100's for the name brand.

Yeah, I hear ya! That’s one of the reasons I never got around to doing mines!

I have a 96 accord coupe and have done a sound deadening job in my car and must say, that it makes every thing just quiet down, doors thud instead of crashing, exhaust note is quieter, and above all, the sound system is very much improved!

Looks good man, neat and simple. Curious though...why did you drill for the speaker wire in the front instead of going the factory door boot?

I didnt use the factory door boot because it was almost impossible to reach. The boot from the door goes towards the front of the car a few inches then up about 5 inches. The wires come into the cabin somewhere above the heating/AC unit behind the glove box. I would have had to strip out the dash AND remove the front fenders to use the factory boot. I wasnt going to spend that much time and effort to hide a silly wire. I am content with the way i ran it. Look at your honda door boot next time and see if there is an easier way.

I used thermozite because it's only 1/2 thick and like a very dense carpet. I had problems cutting it with good scissors. Plus it was only $8.50 a yard. All i needed was 2 yards. The thermozite had a aluminum surface on one side. I put that side against the floor with silicone caulking to hold it on place. Dynamat is great but i cant afford $100's for the name brand.

Do you know anyone with the dynamat? Anyway you say the thermozite works well, where did you pick it up? Oh and nice work on the amps and sub. A perfect daily driver system. A quality setup while still remaining practical.

Unfortunately i dont know anyone with dynamat. I'm sure dynamat would work better, but i refuse to that for that name brand. I found the Thermozite at http://www.ldctx.com/default.asp

They are in my hometown so i went to their place. Basically you want to find a material that is dense, bendable, and fairly thin. You just want something that deadens sound. I'm sure there are plenty of materials that would work. I thought about using roofing asphault in layers but i think it might weigh too much. Thanks for your comments.

Wait, I'm confused, you said you used Thermozite as the sound dampening product on here, but on your cardomain page you said you used Peal & Seal, which one did you use exactly? Also, how much did it cost you to sound dampen your car overall?

And that's a very high quality install you did, I hope to do something half as good as that. Very nice man.

Will you do me a humongous favor and do a step by step of how you wrapped the box. I've tried wrapping my own in the past and it just comes out looking like crap. I always end up just painting it black and throwing it in the trunk.

Sorry if I confused anyone. I used both Thermozite and Peel & Seal. I used the Peel & Seal in the trunk, doors, and wheel wells. I used the Thermozite on the floor and wheel wells. The Peal & Seal was $35 for a 18" x 33.5' roll. I ran out kinda early. I wish i bought the bigger roll so i could have lined the cabin floor with it too. I bought a 4' x 2 yard roll of Thermozite for $17.


Doing a step by step box covering guide is pretty difficult without pictures. I have only covered 1 box. I did learn to try and keep all seams hidden. I have the seams on the bottom and sides of the box. I also learned to have a very sharp single edge razor blade. The basic idea of making 2 edges line up perfectly is to overlap them and make a cut through both. Then once you remove the 2 excess pieces you should have a perfect butt joint. The fewer joints the better. I would try to aviod joints on outside corners, but inside corners hide them very well. Also when cutting the material for a butt joint: instead of cutting it with the razor blade at an angle and dragging it though the cut, hold the razor blade parallel to the box and push straight down. Repeat that all along the line that needs to be cut. I found that when no material is dragged from being cut, it makes a very smooth joint that blends together well.

Cool, I'm going to be attempting it again pretty soon here, hopefully it looks good lol.

Here's a useful link for FAQ's about subs. It also contains a carpet tutorial.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=069893