91 Shadow stalling

I've got a 91 Shadow with 248000 km (149000 mi). Problem seems to be intermittent. I'll start he car, runs smoothly. All of a sudden, power seems to drop, the engine starts sputtering real bad, and the car eventually dies. Can be difficult to restart it right away, but I can tap (very lightly) the gas and make it home usually. If I leave the car for an hour or two, starts up and runs fine again. Help!

could be a bad fuel pump.

could be a bad fuel pump.


I did forget (duh!) to mention that it seems to happen if the car has heated up a bit. The temp gauge goes to the upper 2/3rds of normal - fan kicks in, brings the temperature back down, then usually the sputtering/stalling happens about 5-10 minutes afterwards.

Does your check engine light come on when the problem occurs? Check for a loose or defective vacuum hose. Lower front area of the throttle body. Passenger side.

I've got a 91 Shadow with 248000 km (149000 mi). Problem seems to be intermittent. I'll start he car, runs smoothly. All of a sudden, power seems to drop, the engine starts sputtering real bad, and the car eventually dies. Can be difficult to restart it right away, but I can tap (very lightly) the gas and make it home usually. If I leave the car for an hour or two, starts up and runs fine again. Help!


dv8

I have EXACTLY the same problem with my 91 shadow convertable 2.5
My mechanic (a good shop that doesn't do work until the problem is clear) has identified the MAP sensor as the cause and replaced it twice in two years. It runs great for a while, then slowly starts to get the symptoms again until it gets to unreliable for comfort. I don't put much mileage on the car and it seems like something must be causing the map sensors to get fried but my mechanic has no idea what that would be.

Have you solved your problem? Ever heard anything about the MAP sensor deal? Can you shed any light on it? I knoow somebody must have figured this out by now. Any other forums I can check into?

hmm, if i recall, there is a key-type trouble code retreival method that u can do to see if the car's pc has stored the same code...

insert key, turn the key to ON,but not running...

keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON w/in 5 seconds & then look @ the check engine flashes.

long flash-pause-short flash--short flash-- means code 12

http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/

Did that - Gave me 12, which is simply the battery being unplugged within the last 50 starts, which is true.. Gave me a 21 which is the O2 sensor, then the 55 to end the codes. Would an O2 sensor do this? If I'm driving, give it gas, it doesn't accelerate, it's quit hesitant to, then slowly accepts the gas and starts going again... Almost have to nurse the darn thing back home..


hmm, if i recall, there is a key-type trouble code retreival method that u can do to see if the car's pc has stored the same code...

insert key, turn the key to ON,but not running...

keyON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON w/in 5 seconds & then look @ the check engine flashes.

long flash-pause-short flash--short flash-- means code 12

http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/

02 sensor is 1 of the main inputs for the car's computer... in "closed loop"

as the engine gets to operating temp, the engine switches from open loop(pre-programmed set of idle controls & such)-to closed loop operation, to closely monitor emissions.

you can try this: unplug the o2 sensor( yea, you'll set the code again/ may light up the check engine dash light). take it for a drive... see if there's an improvement.

the car would not goto closed loop mode since you're trying to figure if the 02 sensor is @ fault.

think about changing the sensor & using/renting the tool from autozone, advance auto parts, or whatever parts store you're close to. + u might need pb Blaster penetrating oil.

then start checking for normal tuneup parts like fuel filter,plugs,etc... intermittent problems are the hardest parts to diagnose.

it's recommended that @ 50,000 mile intervals to change out the oxygen sensors; wouldn't hurt to replace it. Make sure you coat the threads of the new sensor w/ anti-seize compound or else the new sensor will weld itself into the exhaust pipe.

I attempted to remove the old O2 sensor tonight - to no avail. Seems that the only thing I ended up doing was break the sensor into two - the part that actually gets threaded into the exhaust pipe is still stuck in the exhaust pipe! Even with penetrating lubricant, still wouldn't budge. Time to have it taken out and the new one installed professionally. Oh well, at least the car will run for now without having the sensor..



it's recommended that @ 50,000 mile intervals to change out the oxygen sensors; wouldn't hurt to replace it. Make sure you coat the threads of the new sensor w/ anti-seize compound or else the new sensor will weld itself into the exhaust pipe.