95 clutch won't disengage after replacment

Replaced the throwout bearing, clutch plate pressure plate and fly wheel on my 95 c/k truck. When truck is on jacks I can start it in first gear. Depressing the clutch does not disengage so I can't shift. Replaced master and slave cylinders and still nothing. Pulled the bell housing off again and checked the throw out bearing and pressure plate. Both show marks so they are engaging. The one thing I noticed is the little clip that keeps the release fork on the shaft fell apart when I touched it. Before I put everything back together does anyone have any suggestions on what might be wrong. Should I take the pressure plate back and try a new one. It is a royal pain to put it all back together so I want to cover all my bases before tackling it again.

Thanks
Robert

the clutch fork pivot ball stud is too short for the new clutch you put in. you can get adjustable one or one that is longer.

Did you make sure the slave cylinder rod is in correctly? If you take off the inspection plug on the bellhousing by the pivot rod you can inspect the push rod to make sure it is in the clutch fork.

Did you make sure the slave cylinder rod is in correctly? If you take off the inspection plug on the bellhousing by the pivot rod you can inspect the push rod to make sure it is in the clutch fork.

Yes I removed the plug and checked.
After pulling the assembly back off the truck the throw out bearing and pressure plate both have markings on them so I know they are at least touching.

Thanks

the clutch fork pivot ball stud is too short for the new clutch you put in. you can get adjustable one or one that is longer.
Do I have to get it from the dealer or will Oreillys have it.
Size wise everything looks identical to the old equipment.

Did you block the wheels and have someone push down on the clutch to see if the slave cylinder push rod was operating while ypu were looking through the inspection hole? Maybe need to bleed the system again. If all the parts are same size as old ones then this is almost the only thing that would prevent disengagement.

i've never actually had to change one but seen them in magazines aparently you can get them from the dealer or aftermarket performance stores. try doing a search on the internet.

did you check that the clutch runs true on the
splines? if it is bent it will drag enough that the
syncros can't stop it