Truck just will not start

I have a 1989 Mazda B2600i (fuel injected) L4, 2.6L, 2606 C.C., 5 speed manual, extended cab, long box. For the last while it was smoking real bad, blue fumes. At first it was at start-up and shifting gears. Then it became continuas. I felt bad just driving it. It smoked up a storm, leaving a trail of smoke. I thought for sure I would get pulled over by the cops for this. But it died before that happened. I thought it would be the cylinder head, valves, seals etc. Thats what I was told. It was also over-heating as well. Near the end I could only drive for so long, to the store, let it cool down, then back home. I replaced the water-pump, and that was it. I always added coolant.

What has to go wrong for you to get blue and white smoke like that?

I kept on abusing it, still driving it. Then one day it just died. I could barely start it after a long time of cranking it over.

I saw some coolant coming out of the muffler's tailpipe, when I was topping up the coolant in the radiator. I poured like 10 liters (2.5 gallons) of coolant. I finally stopped when I saw the coolant coming out of the tailpipe.

So what do I have? A cracked cylinder head? That will explain the coolant in the exhaust manifold. Or would it be a cracked engine block?

To do a cylinder head job is quite an ordeal. I figure it will be a days job, easy. What are some things I should consider when doing this job. Replace the timing chain is a no brainer, new head gasket. What type/brand is the best? for head gasket. If I go rebuilt, will they replace valves, springs etc.? What extra's can I do to add better performance? New, better, enhanced cylinder head internals (valves, springs, lifters etc)


I know for a fact I was burning some coolant in that smoke while driving, because I breathed some in, and man it wasn't healthy.

See ya head gasket lol. I had a 2200 that I drove into the ground too so dont feel bad. I replaced the motor, fairly straightfoward job if you have the toolz.Probably warped the hell outta somethin.

Yeah been working on it the last while now. Compared to my Jeep YJ, this thing is hell to work on. Damn imports and the compact area. Took me 8 hours over 4 days to take, intake, exhaust, balancer, timing chain cover off, valve cover, distributor, belts and mark all connections. I got it to the point where I can pull the cylinder head. Should be fun. And buddy at the auto-part store says to look for a channel in the head gasket. I hope it is just that. So I don't have to drop $500 cnd for a new cylinder block that includes auto-rebuilder labour to swap parts. I do not think anything is warped. I mean; I kinda drove it hard near the end, but I did not abuse it. It of course is rusted pretty bad.

I hate how when you are doing this job, you got like 2 hidden bolts on the exhaust manifold, and you stare at it for like an hour with a drink in hand. And you peek over and you see clearly visible 2 bolts. That damn balancer was on tight, used a whole can of liquid wrench on one exhaust bolt, and the balancer bolt.

Was thinking hard to take engine out and drop in a domestic ford/gmc/dodge/chev engine. Perhaps even go Jeep inline 4cyl. Still pondering the thought. Way easier engines to wrench on. Man o man, wouldn't a diesel be rocking. Be heavy. Thats alot of modifications.

In the manual it talks about Hydraulic Lash adjusters, and it says how its a mazda tool #. Its to keep them on when you pull it. Do I really need this tool, to pull the cyl head? or can I get a generic lash adjuster.

Once I fix this problem, and it starts up on the first crank. *praying* I need a few rolls of fiberglass and resin, fix em holes in bed and cab. Get a large tub of Bondo, and smooth it out for some paint.

Got the cylinder head off, the old gasket looks fine, it seems some areas the gasket is gone. But we are talking small area, not going all the way thru. Could be from pulling it off. Any signs I should look for?

My 4th cylinder looks bad, bunch of carbon crap, probably due to coolant. Might just get a steal brush and clean those cylinders up nicely, along with the valves. To rebuild the engine would be too much work.

do a swap i am gonna do a 3.0l out of a 92 mvp.The mill should bolt right up to the tranny and engine mounts.may have to scratch the head on the wire harness and the computer part of it. My 2.6 in my 91 has a (reman in 2002)head still works good but i just need mo power. I'll keep you informed of how it goes .

Definately a cracked head, between the vavles goes up to the coolant hole. I think I got two of them. So no easy out with a $200 head gasket job, more like a $500 newly machined brand new head. Added to that a $200 head gasket. I will just rebuild the engine now.

The cylinder seems to be the toughest part of dis-assembly. With all the labelling and such.

Have any of you ever rebuilt a 2.6L engine? I think all I have to do is take the crank out, and have the engine block itself to take to the machine shop, then what do I do with the pistons? do they machine those to, or do I get new ones? I was scared to do the cylinder head job at first, should I be even more scared to rebuild the block and pistons?