How much am I saving?

I was just wondering how much I'm saivng by doing reapirs and maintenance myself. I change the oil regularly and I just did the front brakes.

I figured that it costs me about $7 for an oil change compared to 20 or so that somone would charge. So thats a good $13, which might not seem like much, but I need all I can get since the local learning institution takes all my greenbacks.

As for the brakes, I spent about $110 to replace the front pads and rotors. This cost was raised a lot because I need a lot of new tools since I had nothing. I also had to buy a jack and an allen wrench set. The pads were 27 and the rotors were 17 each. It will be less in the future since now I have the tools. How much would it cost if for new front brakes if I took it to a mechanic?

Wow... my oil changes run me around 28 bucks even with doing it myself. Damn Mobil 1... LOL...

A shop will charge you an Hourly rate that is in a book price plus parts which is usually 110% mark up from a store. I was quoted 120 somthing to get my drums done. I laughed and walked out the door. Me personally for friends and realitive, i make them buy the parts they want and to do new front rotors/pads and drums/shoes 50 bucks. I think its really fair. Most of the time is spent jacking the car up.

Wow... my oil changes run me around 28 bucks even with doing it myself. Damn Mobil 1... LOL...


I watch the newpaper for coupons for oil lol. I got penzoil for 1.39 a quart at pep boys and an oil filter for $2. Myh 1992 cavalier only tkaes 4 quarts (the guy at the store told me 5). I let it drain for a good 15 min and filled it up and it only took 4. I checked it again a few days later to be sure too.

Are you using synthetic oil? That sure is a lot for an oil change.

Would about $200 be a reasonable estimate from a shop to replace the front pads and rotors?

Are you using synthetic oil? That sure is a lot for an oil change.

:thumbsup:


Would about $200 be a reasonable estimate from a shop to replace the front pads and rotors?


yep

I watch the newpaper for coupons for oil lol. I got penzoil for 1.39 a quart at pep boys and an oil filter for $2. Myh 1992 cavalier only tkaes 4 quarts (the guy at the store told me 5). I let it drain for a good 15 min and filled it up and it only took 4. I checked it again a few days later to be sure too.

Are you using synthetic oil? That sure is a lot for an oil change.

Would about $200 be a reasonable estimate from a shop to replace the front pads and rotors?


jut some help for ya.....you shouldn't use penzoil. It has a wax base to it. When your car heats up it melt and then will easily burn and brake down really fast. I've done a little reasearch on oil and I decided to go with quaker state. Whatever you do take oil changes seriously and don't ever miss one. People underestimate what oil changes do for your engine if you want your car to last.

oh and if you want to waste time doing your oil changes for $20 go right ahead. My time is worth more than that. Plus what are you going to do with old oil. You better not just be dumping man. I'd like my kids to be able to enjoy this place too. :)

jut some help for ya.....you shouldn't use penzoil. It has a wax base to it. When your car heats up it melt and then will easily burn and brake down really fast. I've done a little reasearch on oil and I decided to go with quaker state. Whatever you do take oil changes seriously and don't ever miss one. People underestimate what oil changes do for your engine if you want your car to last.

oh and if you want to waste time doing your oil changes for $20 go right ahead. My time is worth more than that. Plus what are you going to do with old oil. You better not just be dumping man. I'd like my kids to be able to enjoy this place too. :)


I have never seen anyone do research then switch to Quaker State. It also has or had a lot of wax. As for myself and all my mechanic friends it is Havoline or Valvoline for dino oil or Synthetic. I do not love my car enough for synthetic. I put on a ton of highway miles and the cost is just too high. I have never had an oil related problem with Havoline or Valvoline and 7k-10k between changes. Back in the 80's I did have a car full of Quaker State die because the oil was all in the valve covers causing me to loose presure and the thing had flakes of wax all through the engine. That is when I did my research. Perhaps something has changed in the 15+ years since, I hope so.

CRJ what is up with the dancer? I cannot read his shirt. Is that the message on his shirt? Could that man be you "Back in the Day"? :bananasmi:

I bring the oil back to the store ofcourse. They take it for free.

As for wasting time, it doesn't seem that way to me. Why would it take me any longer to change the oil than the guy at the oil change place? In addition, there is usually a line there. The only advantage he has is the way the car is lifted. He has more room but that isn't really a factor since I'm incredibly skinny lol. I can almost change the oil without lifting the car lol - just an inch or two keeps me from doing it. I use ramps to lift the car so it takes only a few seconds and saves time from jacking the car up. I can change the oil in less than a half hour and the places do it in 15 to 20 minutes + the wait. I have waited an hour for an oil change before and they usually don't do it right. Jiffy lube scrapped off the defogger tape in the rear window and valvoline left the oil filter box, a socket wrench, a tool belt and an oil filter wrench under the hood. Thats the only two times I ever took it somewhere for an oil change and it didn't go well. Maybe I'm cursed though :-P

As for the penzoil having the wax base, is it good for at least the three months? I don't miss a change but I have about a case of it left lol. So is it just "not the best" to use penzoil or is it an awful mistake thats worth throwing away a case of oil? I decided to use it because I have always heard good things about it until now.

CRJ what is up with the dancer? I cannot read his shirt. Is that the message on his shirt? Could that man be you "Back in the Day"? :bananasmi:

His shirt says vote as the first word but I can't read the rest either.

His shirt says vote as the first word but I can't read the rest either.

It says "vote for pedro" its a quote of the movie napolean dynamite

Hmm... nobody said anything about Castrol GTX.
Dad always said "If it's good enough for John Force, it's good enough for me" When I change, it's one quart Lucas Oil Treatment, three quarts GTX 5W-30, and a K&N oil filter. About $20.

Hmm... nobody said anything about Castrol GTX.
Dad always said "If it's good enough for John Force, it's good enough for me" When I change, it's one quart Lucas Oil Treatment, three quarts GTX 5W-30, and a K&N oil filter. About $20.

I usually used Amsoil, with an amsoil oil filter.

Does that lucas stuff actually work?

I've heard that AMSoil is really great, but it's probably expensive like mmost synthetics. Lucas helps reduce wear, and increases the life of the oil somewhat, it's worth it. It's pretty thick though, that's why I use 5W-30.

I've heard that AMSoil is really great, but it's probably expensive like mmost synthetics. Lucas helps reduce wear, and increases the life of the oil somewhat, it's worth it. It's pretty thick though, that's why I use 5W-30.

Yeah, Amsoil is expensive, but think about this.

You dont have to change it for 8000 miles. It stays clean for that long.

I am coming up to an oil change pretty soon here and I'll tell you guys if its dirty or not when I change it.

Everyone should know its Napolean Dynamite! and yes it says Vote for pedro!

1. Didn't see the movie. sorry.

2. I would use the Penzoil since you already have it. I hve yet to see even the worst oil kill an engine that quick.

1. Didn't see the movie. sorry.

2. I would use the Penzoil since you already have it. I hve yet to see even the worst oil kill an engine that quick.

I'd reccomend if you decide to watch it, be a little under the influence of alcohol or with a bunch of people. It makes it even better..

oh... i use Mobil 1... if anyone cares for somthing on topic.

I'd reccomend if you decide to watch it, be a little under the influence of alcohol or with a bunch of people. It makes it even better..

oh... i use Mobil 1... if anyone cares for somthing on topic.


Hey, there is this new either quaker state or mobile synthetic oil. Its called "advance" and they say it can go to like 8500 - 15,000 depending on which one you buy.

Anyone ever seen that stuff and how much it costs?

Hey, there is this new either quaker state or mobile synthetic oil. Its called "advance" and they say it can go to like 8500 - 15,000 depending on which one you buy.

Anyone ever seen that stuff and how much it costs?


Would you really trust somthing like that?... I'll stick with my 2,500-3,000 mile changes thank you. Atleast i can rest easy knowing its clean oil.

Would you really trust somthing like that?... I'll stick with my 2,500-3,000 mile changes thank you. Atleast i can rest easy knowing its clean oil.


Oh no, I was just wondering if anyone has ever seen it. It has to be expensive if you can go 15,000 miles

I go by the color of the oil when I check it, once it gets dark but still brown/caramel looking, it's time. The Lucas must help 'cause it's close to time to change and I've went about 6 months/6,000 miles, of course a slight main seal leak means I have to add almost a quart over two months so that keeps it fresh.

oil leaks suck. I had one in my 96 cavalier LS because i liked to screw atound in it and I think I cracked the oil pan.

I used 10-30 Castrol GTX in my Suburban for the first 250,000 niles, changing every 3 months or 4,000 miles.

Then I switched to Castrol Syntec, changing at 7,000 mile intervals. Should have gone synthetic years sooner.

At 300,000 my oil pressure started to drop so I started substituting Lucas oil supplement for 1 quart. Wow, like new oil pressure, this stuff is STP on steroids.

At 370,000 miles I popped an intake manfold gasket, losing vacuum and drivability. Rather than change it, I decided it was time for a new engine; 4-bolt main stroker 383, World heads, Edelbrock TBI manifold and TiTec headers, etc. About 50% more hp and torque. Essentially big-block power in a small block package.

I'm breaking it in on 10-30 conventional oil for the first 5,000 miles. Considering 0-30 Amsoil. Pro racers and builders I've talked to know about it and some are testing it. I've had guys tell me their duallies have gone from 10mpg to 14 just changeing to this oil. Any non-Amsoil dealers out there with good or bad experiences to share?

You should have started to use synthetic like around 10-15,000 miles. With those high of miles, its not that good of an idea. Granted i switched mine over at 50K, but i haven't had any problems thus far at 57K.

I work at a wal-mart tire and lube express and our major brand of oil is penzoil and ive seen cars come in that have had a major amount of sludge inside the fill tube and around the cap.... From what ive seen i would not recomend penzoil to anyone... also the guy about the new synthetic its just a new formula from mobil and its mobil 5000 and then they have their extended performance that is supposed to protect for 15,000.. but i would never trust a oil for that long... As for my personal choice its valvoline for me right now im runnin maxlife 10-30.....

Question. Is it worth switching over to a complete synthetic from a synthetic blend? Or just stick to what I have because it's what I've been using?

I just got an oil change about a month ago, whent eh miles were at 21.3k I'm coming up on 24k here soon. Was thinking about switching to Mobil1 full synthetic, but didnt know if it would really help or benefit?

I've noticed though that my car has gone from 332 miles on a full tank of gas down to 240. But before I was driving ~80 miles a day, on the freeway. Now I'm not anymore. Could I really be losing that many miles off a tank of gas just from not being on the freeway the majority of the time?

Well it's time for my oil change, I think this time I'm going with AMSOIL, here's why...

Here's a link to a AMSOIL vs. Mobil1 page.

http://www.syntheticoildealer.com/amsoil/amsoil_vs_mobil1_supersyn_synthetic_motor_oil.htm

There's a guy who went over 400,000 mi on a Mack truck using AMSOIL, the engine was torn down and inspected and they found no excesive wear compared to a petro based oil with regular changes. It said the engine could be put right back in...

http://www.syntheticoildealer.com/amsoil/amsoil_409-000_miles_without_oil_change_mack_engine_teardown. htm

It may cost more, but if you can go 3 or 4 times longer than conventional oil, it's actually cheaper. Anyway, that's my post for the day.

i use castrol gtx 5w-30, it works great for me, and as for that 15k stuff, i would never EVER go that long without changing my oil!

This guy came into my work the other day to get a oil change and he brought his own oil and it was called royal purple.. Does anyone know anything about this?

This guy came into my work the other day to get a oil change and he brought his own oil and it was called royal purple.. Does anyone know anything about this?
Dont know anything about it, but can check out their website at http://www.rpmoil.com/

well, when i got hte oil changed in town like a month ago i told them to put castrol syntec in it and put a k&n filter so im assuming thats what i got but knowing my mother she probly told them to put cooking oil and a muffin if it would save her money but yeah once im in control of all this its definatly gonna be castrol and k&n but if i had access itd probly be motul and k&n

Everyone should know its Napolean Dynamite! and yes it says Vote for pedro!

well last time i took it to a repair shop to get oil change i ended up with a quart short, i looked and oil filter was loose

since then i do it myself. i dont care for time wasted i care for my car being safe and making sure is dont right, besides.
in that time i check other stuff while im down there

and i use castrol gtx too

i have never used syntetics, i would like to know if they r good for these engines

i mean if is worth it the money for the protection i will get??? :confused:

and about brakes i also do them myself, i spend like 30 bucks in pads

and thats it, i apply anti seize in all bolts so next time bolts will come
out easy and no rust, i used the loctite anti seize copper based

is good and resist up to 1800 degrees so is safe for heatting parts

of course with time ill get better and do more stuff myself
and yes.... save tons of money but, more important,

u r sure is dont right, so peace of mind have no price,

this is a lil off topic but is 6-7000$ canadian a good price for like a 97 z24?

Lucas oil stabilizer is great stuff! Like STP on steroids. My well-maintained 350 began to lose oil pressure as it approached 300,000 original miles.
I didn't want to move up in weight from my energy conserving Syntec 10W-30.

Substituting one quart of Lucas with each oil change brought the pressure back to normal for an additional 100,000 miles!!

Hey, quake61!

If you're keeping the car past 100,000 miles you should be using synthetic.

Castrol Syntec costs more but you can at least double your drain interval to offset this. I change it at 90 days or 7,000 miles.

Plus it has special anti-acid additives and molcules that attach themselves to sharp-edged particles of metal, rust, carbon, etc. and cushion them 'til thy reach the oil filter.

And synthetic can take temps of 600-700 degrees. I once had an a/c compressor freeze up solid on a business trip (Las Vegas, 106 degrees), taking out the fan, water pump, etc with the derailed serpentine belt. I was able to drive my truck a few miles at a time, snorting and bucking, to a few meetings. At MY convenience, I had it towed to a shop where I had the compressor bypassed; NO damage to the oil or engine because of the extra margin of protection!

By the way I've tried all kinds of brake pads. Best are Raybestos Brute Force (about $50 at chain stores). My 6000-lb. Suburban EATS pads but I get 50-60,000 miles with these. Shop around for a lifetime guarantee and never pay for pads again!

Hey, quake61!

If you're keeping the car past 100,000 miles you should be using synthetic.

Castrol Syntec costs more but you can at least double your drain interval to offset this. I change it at 90 days or 7,000 miles.

Plus it has special anti-acid additives and molcules that attach themselves to sharp-edged particles of metal, rust, carbon, etc. and cushion them 'til thy reach the oil filter.

And synthetic can take temps of 600-700 degrees. I once had an a/c compressor freeze up solid on a business trip (Las Vegas, 106 degrees), taking out the fan, water pump, etc with the derailed serpentine belt. I was able to drive my truck a few miles at a time, snorting and bucking, to a few meetings. At MY convenience, I had it towed to a shop where I had the compressor bypassed; NO damage to the oil or engine because of the extra margin of protection!

By the way I've tried all kinds of brake pads. Best are Raybestos Brute Force (about $50 at chain stores). My 6000-lb. Suburban EATS pads but I get 50-60,000 miles with these. Shop around for a lifetime guarantee and never pay for pads again!


thanks for the tip ill look for syntetic for now on, and btw is castrol a good brand?

and talking about ur trip ,damn. that was a bad thing but luckily nothing happened to it

im glad for that ,,ill let ya know what happened after i use the syntetic

thanks for the tip ill look for syntetic for now on, and btw is castrol a good brand?

and talking about ur trip ,damn. that was a bad thing but luckily nothing happened to it

im glad for that ,,ill let ya know what happened after i use the syntetic


well im using syntetic now and yes i see the diference, way better than those crappy petroleum based

ill keep checking it and ill let ya all know how it looks like overtime

...and btw is castrol a good brand?

As my Dad always said, "If it's good enough for John Force, then it's good enough for me"

I've never bought any other brand oil, except for the Lucas Oil Stabilizer I put in every oil change.