My New Project
crv-tec
04-16-2005, 04:15 PM
OK, since we know that I have an 89HF, we know I have crappy brakes stock. Furthermore, with the JDM b16 SiR2 swap, we know those stock HF brakes suck even wrose with that motor. So a few weeks ago I was scrolling through ebay and saw a set up for a rear disc conversion on my car. So I contacted the guy and saw if he had extras, as I didn't have the money at the time. So after talking to him, appreatnly he was coming down to Phoenix to visit family or friends or something (he was from LA) so he said he's bring them rear control arms from a 90-93 teg with him. Luckily this meant no shipping cost :). So after a short trip to phoenix last night (100 miles from Tucson), we met up and I purchased these lovelies from him for only 250 (local junkyard wanted 300).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/rearcontrol.jpg
Also, since a friend of mine had a LS, he sold me the upper A arms from the front with the complete with rotors and calipers for 100. If I remember right these rotors are 10 inchs and should help my braking at least a little.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/upperaarms.jpg
So now all I need is: Pads, Rotors, Lines, Get parts hot tanked, get bushings and have new bearings installed (from what I've heard). Of course when I posted this I forgot that I still needed the following parts from a 90-93 teg: Brake booster, Master Cylinder, Distrubtion block (also called proportioning valve)
Unfortuanly I am not to familiar with suspension parts, and I've heard the bearings in the upper A arms from the LS should be pressed in by a machine shop. I figure at the same time, might as well hot tank them and clean them up a little. But can anyone tell me what bearings should be pressed in? Any help would be appreciated...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/rearcontrol.jpg
Also, since a friend of mine had a LS, he sold me the upper A arms from the front with the complete with rotors and calipers for 100. If I remember right these rotors are 10 inchs and should help my braking at least a little.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v731/stretch_that_motha/upperaarms.jpg
So now all I need is: Pads, Rotors, Lines, Get parts hot tanked, get bushings and have new bearings installed (from what I've heard). Of course when I posted this I forgot that I still needed the following parts from a 90-93 teg: Brake booster, Master Cylinder, Distrubtion block (also called proportioning valve)
Unfortuanly I am not to familiar with suspension parts, and I've heard the bearings in the upper A arms from the LS should be pressed in by a machine shop. I figure at the same time, might as well hot tank them and clean them up a little. But can anyone tell me what bearings should be pressed in? Any help would be appreciated...
crv-tec
04-16-2005, 04:17 PM
Sorry for the shitty pics, I just woke up and took them with my phone in the garage...
BiGwiLLswiLLy
04-16-2005, 06:49 PM
cool...need good brakes u sucks to have all the power but not go fast cause when u do u cant stop...shitty feelin
Scott82
04-16-2005, 07:00 PM
there are lots of ways to press in ball joints and other things too. If you have a vise, it can help. As long as you can force it into it's place evenly, and by evenly it can't go in one side at a time cause it could cause it to fit loosely if you take a chunk out of what ever you are pressing in. You can press things in w/ a hammer to if you watch what you are doing but if you have never presses anything in before then try to get someone who has to help you so that way you do it right and then you know how the next time cause if the suspention falls apart it wouldn't be good thing to happen going down the road.
BiGwiLLswiLLy
04-17-2005, 12:21 PM
u mean the bushings in the a-arm...easiest way is 2 use a press but if u know how u can use a c clamp wit a big enough socket to press it in but if u are not to familer with doin any work like that id suggest havin someone who knows what they r doin do it...
crv-tec
04-17-2005, 01:18 PM
Yea, since I've never done it before I was planning on taking it to a machine shop and having them do it....
travagliante
04-17-2005, 07:18 PM
you also will need a DA teg or Older Lude Brake booster and a 15/16 proportioning valve off a DA teg in order to take advantage off the bigger brakes.
EF You
04-18-2005, 07:09 PM
by a-arm, do you mean the front knuckle? because a-arm refers to upper control arm, simply because back in the day they were shaped like the letter A.
anyway, to change the front wheel bearings in the knuckle, you need a press. if you already have everything taken apart, any place with a hydraulic press shouldnt charge more than 10 bucks a bearing to press the old one out and the new one in. keep in mind that this is only if you already have the knuckle off the car and have the rotors and calipers off already.
its the same for suspension bushings, most shops charge 5 bucks per bushing to press them out. and if you are putting polyurethane bushings in, you can put those in by hand and save money. the only bushings in an energy suspensions master kit that cant be taken out by hand or with a bench vise is the lower control arm ones.
you are gonna see a marked improvement with those brakes. i know that i didnt feel safe in my b16a hatch until i swapped all of that stuff over.
anyway, to change the front wheel bearings in the knuckle, you need a press. if you already have everything taken apart, any place with a hydraulic press shouldnt charge more than 10 bucks a bearing to press the old one out and the new one in. keep in mind that this is only if you already have the knuckle off the car and have the rotors and calipers off already.
its the same for suspension bushings, most shops charge 5 bucks per bushing to press them out. and if you are putting polyurethane bushings in, you can put those in by hand and save money. the only bushings in an energy suspensions master kit that cant be taken out by hand or with a bench vise is the lower control arm ones.
you are gonna see a marked improvement with those brakes. i know that i didnt feel safe in my b16a hatch until i swapped all of that stuff over.
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