Cant find anwsers anywhere else.

Okay I have a prelude now. I am getting a Nos (the brand) kit really cheap. I am planning on building my ignition and fuel before even putting it on let alone filling it up. I know the risks involved with running any amount of nitrous to a motor.
Its a dry system and I DO NOT plan on shooting any more than 60. I will wait until I have built the motor more before venturing higher. This is not somehting I want to blow to pieces. Anyways back with the question.
I have searched and searched and no one has any anwsers. I am wanting to know what upgrades I should buy? I mean I know ignition but what kind of MSD box and coil and all that. The fuel I was wondering if I should go with a VAFC and a pump and regulator. or just the pump and reg. or just the VAFC. If so name a few brands that have a decent reputation.
This all for a 1997 Prelude SH. I have recently ordered a head without cams and I plan on getting it port matched and all that goodness and then building the valve train while I am at it.
Since I would have to upgrade most of this to run a set of cams (larger than stock) I figure if I can knock two birds with one stone it would be great.
If you guys dont remeber me Im not a noobie and I still own a 1988 Crx si. Its going to be driving before I tear the prelude apart. Anyways please help me out here I havent found a decent anwser yet.

The stock honda ignition is good for around 200 hp. I have been running a 75 wet shot, for roughly 50lbs, with no signs of detonation, burnt valves, etc. I do however have a Walbro 255 fuel pump, regulator, 2 degrees colder plugs, and timing at 13 degrees.

I would look into getting more fuel to the motor, first.

if your conserned about running lean (a legitimate consern) i would Upgrade to a Wet system. a fogger Nozzle and a Fuel Selenoid. is the minimum required.

I was lucky enought to Pickup a NOS Direct Port Wet setup Cheap for my new motor and Plan on running 100 shot in my Built B16.

Good god I am glad to see that there are still ppl with sense in the world. Thank you. Now what I am trying to figure out. If I was to get a fuel system then I would need something to control it right?
I thought that ignition would be a equal part of it. I also would like to know what the "colder" plugs are. I know the brand and part number reccomended but what is the difference?
Also was looking into the RPM "window" switches. I was thinking that if I controlled my max RPM's with the chip int he box. Then also had the "window" switch on the Nitrous it would just about eliminate accidental over revs. Im not really one to push my car or race it much at all. I just like to go fast all alone in the middle of no where.
The part aobut running a wet system, would I be able to addon to the dry kit I have and make it a wet kit with relative ease? Or would I be able to take care of the problem with upgrading the fuel system?

come on...someone has to know.

the Problem with a Dry Kit is that unless you have a unit like the Zex smart box, you have to run you fuel a little richer to compensate for when you spray.

A guy over here blew up his H22 last year because he was running too lean when he sprayed.

yes you can convert to a Wet system fairly easely

you would need a Fogger Nossle
a fuel selenoid
and a fuel jet

you run a line from a fuel source (I am using an extra outlet on my fuel rail) to the Fuel Selenoid to the Fogger unit.

the fuel selenoid opens at the same time the nitrous one delivering the extra fuel you need to the motor. no worries of running lean and blowing up when you spray.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7968306023&category=33740&sspagename=WDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7966850085&category=33740&sspagename=WDVW

and then having the lines made. no biggie.

I see I see. tank you very much... now about this VAFC shit. I plan on putting a set of larger cams in my head before I install it, and I will have a header (dont know what kind yet they are expensive) and exhaust. I will have to have the VAFC to keep it from bogging out at idle with stage 2 cams.
Thanks a million you guys.

I also would like to know what the "colder" plugs are. I know the brand and part number reccomended but what is the difference?


Let me see if I can explain this without fumbling all over the place with it.

Heat range by definition is the range in which the spark plug works well thermally. If the firing end temperature of a spark plug drops below its ‘self-cleaning temperature’, carbon will accumulate on the firing end, causing the voltage supplied by the ignition system to ‘leak away’ and NO spark will occur at the gap. NGK Spark Plugs offers a heat range “2” for the hottest heat range up to a “12” for the coldest heat range. That is, the lower the number, the hotter the NGK plug. The higher the number, the colder the plug is considered in overall heat range.

In a simple demonstration, the distance the heat must travel from the ‘firing end’ to the shell (for heat dissipation through the engine head and air or water jacket) is shorter in a ‘colder’ plug thereby allowing the tip to cool at a faster rate. This design consequently is considered a “cold plug”. The other side of the spectrum, the heat travels a longer distance, forcing the ‘firing end’ to retain the temperature for a longer period of time thereby making it a ‘hotter’ plug. Projected-tip ceramic plugs (those that have the ceramic extending beyond the limits of the metal shell) perform a similar alternate function of becoming a ‘hotter’ heat range.

With nitrous, you don't want your plug to essentially turn into a "glow plug". What I mean by that, is it pretty much stays so hot, that it would ignite your nitrous/fuel mixture prematurly, and cause detonation.

I use NGK's 8 series plugs for my setup.

wow, got me a lesson on spark plugs. I had no idea that there were differ spark plugs w/ differ temps like that offered. Are these only good for when you have nos. When would it be needed to use these plugs and consider the differences between stock plugs for the engine, or can it help w/ any engine no matter if it is built up or not?

Kris you are the master Thank you.
I think I now have the info I need to do this shit. I am still awaiting my new head in the mail. I got raped on it but I cant wait to build it.

well, at least you dont have to worry about melting your dizzy, since the prelude comes with an external coil stock. if i were you, id go with one of the blaster coils just to ensure that your spark is strong enough during the boost you have while spraying. other than that, everyone else covered you.

keep in mind that the VAFC will adjust fuel at many RPM points, and that a regulator only raises your fuel pressure and not the actual opening and closing of the injectors. if you need something that is going to increase fuel only while spraying, go with a wet setup. because the other two ways you mentioned to increase the fuel wont know the difference if you are spraying or not.