b20/vtec

I have been hearing alot about a b20/vtec and it sounds like a good swap but i dont know a thing about it. What head do you need to use and what types of fabracations are needed to swap the motor into a 91 crx?

do a seach, you'll find lots of stuff.

what the hell happened to kris' b20 thread that was stickied?

it was never sticked, it just randomly appears every now and then

i heard that b20 vtec is expensive to make reliable think vtec head high revs on b20 block low revs. need to build bottom end=$ just my 2

you dont need to build the bottom end, just replace the rod bolts

There is no such thing as a b20/vtec. You have been fooled by vicious rumors. :evillol:

Alright THis is the B20vtec info you need

easiest way to build it, get a complete B16a swap and at the same time buy a B20 motor.

remove the Tranny, clutch, flywheel, intake manifold & oil pump from the B16 swap.

remove the head off the b20b/z and replace oil pump with Vtec oil pump.

buy ARP GSR head studs & B20 Head gasket

modify the Vtec head to accept the external vtec line and plug the line in the head.

bolt head to B20 block

Run oil line to Head.

mount alternator, flywheel, clutch, tranny and Dizzy.

install in car like a B16 swap (use appropriate hardware)

sell b20 head and B16 block on ebay.

B20vtec stop making power at 7500rpm, these are not a Reving motor, these are a displacment motor.

optional mods

- bigger cams
- bigger injectors
- arp bolts all around
- P&P & head work

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the two b20 we built were bolth in EG cars one made 165whp and 150tq, the other made 155hp and 145tq. bolth were stock b16 cams. the one with the higher hp had a Jasma header and H22 injectors.

bigger Cams will help alot to get the air in the motor and produce more HP.

Why would you need to buy both a b16 and a b20? why not just get a b20 and then add your b16 head/oil lines/pump later?

Why would you need to buy both a b16 and a b20? why not just get a b20 and then add your b16 head/oil lines/pump later?

he didn't say you NEED to buy both motors. most people start off with having a b16 in their call already. therefore you have a b16 motor. now with the b20 not too many people sell just the block by itself. it's the same price to purchase a b20 shortblock. in the end you have bought yourself a b16 and a b20. some people buy the b20 motor and a b16 head. same thing.

you dont need the vtec oil pump. b20s already come with a vtec oil pump. also you cant say a b20vtec stops making power at 7500, it all depends on teh head, a gsr head vs a b16 head will make peak power at different rpms. cant say remove flywheel and clutch either because they might be too worn down already. also he needs to replace the rod bolts, they stretch easy and will break.

The non-vtec oil pump does not have as high oil pressure as vtec ones, With our experience the B20b/z tend to be automatics. I have seen B20 come with GSR oil pump I have also seen them with LS oil pumps.

Why to buy a B16 swap? because buying the complete swap gives you thing you would not normaly get buying just the head, and it's not a hell of alot more.

a b16 swap sells for about 1200$ (first gen)
gives you
- tranny
- ecu
- starter
- alternator
- complete OBD0 intake manifold
- OBD0 Distributor
- wire harness
- axels & shifter linkage
- clutch & flywheel

buying the B20 get you
- Distributor (b-non vtec)
- alternator obd1/2
- flex plate ( flywheel & clutch if your lucky)

so if you plan on staying obd0 this is the best way to do it.

which distributor should i use on a b20b with a gsr vtec? the frankanstein motor is inside of the honda hatch 91

u shouldnt have to ask nemore questions after u read this stone..there is also another tutorial i will find and post link in here for u http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=576945 last but surely not least.. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=161203