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ayep, the Chilton's # 20384 Lists all the following

Chrysler 5th avenue,
Imperial,
LeBaron
New yorker [except LH]
TC by Maserati
Daytona
Dynasty
Monaco
Shadow
Spirit
Eagle Premier
Acclaim
Sundance

for years 88-95, 6-cylinder only

LOL

Tam

They are precious manuals, ya can rarely find them in stores anymore.

Btw, I have owner's manual for the '89 eagle premier, 6 cylinder.

Old-time tricks available~~~~~~~~~

1] you can direct battery-jump any motor, once it unplugged off factory harness to see if if it runs.

2] ya can use jumper-cables off the batt. terminals to send power out to motor terminals.

3] Get some 14 or 16 guage wires to clamp to feed-end of jupmper-cables. WATCH OUT, don't cross the jumper cable ends together, lol.

4] Use the 14\16 gauge wires to touch the motor terminals, but again PAY ATTENTION.

It sort of like this, hook the + and - terminals of jumper cables to battery appropriate terminals. Then ya clamp a lead of 14/16 gauge wire, to each of the free jumper-cable terminals, and those 14/16 wires can become your probes to the motor terminals. Watch out for the free-jumper cable ends connecting.

testing wiring harness at plug end for juice. Get a voltmeter with thin probes, one that auto-corrects for polarity. Set to DC voltage around 50v or so, insert probes, turn on switch that activates the mechanism, look for voltage read, ignition switch on but engine not running,first.

Pulling the C-clip to disengage the manual window crank handle.~~~~~~~~~~~

If ya don't have the tool designed to do this, don't fret. Get a thin rag, work it between the handle washer and the door panel, position the rag so it will catch the "lips" of the c-clip, and pull outwards both ends of the rag.

It may take a few tries, but it will disengage the clip so ya can pull the handle off the shaft.

Rotors run $35, and a cap easy $65. HINT, get a small file, and very carefully file the rotor-end to remove corrosion, and same at ineer distributor cap contacts, preferred is some fine grit sandpaper instead of a file. Go EASY!!!!!!!! You can extend the life of these expensive parts by careful sanding. Put some di-electric greas on the rotor contacts and the dist. contacts, that helps a bit

Thanks Knifeblade 03 With The Info. Believe It Or Not But I Have Already Replaced The Parts That You Have Mentioned. I Forgot To Mention That I'm Working With Another Motor That I Installed In My Eagle. What Next Would You Suggest? Thanks

If the sputtering is still there after trying all the quick fixes, then most likely you have a sensor other than the oil sensor not reading correctly. I'll have to nose around my manual a bit, and see if I can point out some likely culprit/s.

K, bear with me, here we go~~~~~~~~`

1] Fuel tank pressure relief and Rollover valve, ya have to literally drop the gas tank. I doubt this is your prob.

2] EGR, vacuum-activated, look for cracked or loose vac. hose at EGR solenoid, it just under the cruise control servo, 2 wire harness.

3] EGR valve/transducer, vacuum-operated, look for hose cracks/connects, it right at the throttle body area.

Start with the EGR hoses

Ok Knifeblade 3, I'll Try Starting With The Egr Valve And Any Of It's Surroundings And Go From There. I'll Keep You Informed On What Happens From There. I Think That I Might Have To Purchase A Manual Chiltons #20384. Hey Knifeblade 3, I Was Just Curious What's A Pcm? Is It Some Type Of Control Module?

ayep, the PCM is a control module linked to the ECM in some Eagles, or is just another term for the ECM in some Eagles. It is the Power Control module, electronic 'brains" of the ride, similar to the ECM,Electronic Control Module.

I dunno how useful this may be for ya, but here goes~~~~~~~~~~

Oct. 1991 fuel injection and ignition systems changed over.

1988-1991 [prior to Oct. '91] use the following systems

ECU engine Control Unit

ICM Ignition control Module and distributor

Relay cluster

Post Oct. '91's use

SBEC II controller

DIS Diect Ignition coil pack

PDC Power Distribution Center

Quick way to check if a vacuum leak anywhere,

Fill spray bottle with about 1/4 dish soap, 3/4 water, try to fill so it doesn't foam too much. mix the water, soap in the bottle. Engine running, spray the suspected areas, one of two things happen if a leak.

Either the solution gets sucked in, causing a bit of engine stumble, or ya will see bubbling from escaping air.

If your ride is distributor'ed, check the harness plug and connects at the coil, and the primary coil wire.

Thanks Knifeblade 3 I'll try all of the things you mentioned and go from there. Thanks for all of the helpful info. I'll keep you informed

Don't forget to surf www.autozone.com repair section, that may help ya out better than I can.

Hint~~~ since it usually a big pain in A** to check out rear lighting [brakes, turns, etc] without someone else around, back the ride up to a glass window somewhere, I usually find some storefront window that will reflect the rear end of the ride. Do your pedal and lever stuff while watching through the rear. Saves time.
Can also be done against a concrete wall, but the lights don't visualise as well.

You can use a fork to disengage the manual window crank clip off of the shaft. Cut off the two middle or one middle tine, and bend the other two outside tines into each other.

If you can heat them up a bit to anneal them, [soften the metal] they will form out to the shaft and catch the lips of the C-clip. Compliments of Hbomb.

I think you have started your own repair manual thread, unfortunately it's on a forum of a car company that died nearly 10 years ago, but keep up the good work!!

So true about the Eagles, but there's still a few of 'em driving around. It is so hard to find info. or repair thoughts about them, I just gradually ended up drifting into "repair" mode.

Thankfully, my Premier hasn't bothered me with anything outside of normal maintenance and repair, yet, lol. Not too bad for a 16 year old car I picked up for only $200. Ad everything still works!!! Actually, I know I was lucky, others haven't been as their eagles start to show age, sigh.

Hemi's are the bomb.
that's one clean looking engine!!!!!!!!!