advancing timing. What do you set it to?

Ok, im going to visit my folks in SD next month and my pops has a timing light. I want him to advance my timing for me but I am not sure exactly how far to go before getting any knocking. I need some number here, what should I set it to. Also do you just loosen the distributer and twist it towards the front of the car to advance and to the rear of the car to retard? And if I advance the timming, that will give me a little more lower end power correct?

When I advanced my timing it was told to me that if you are going to advance the timing that you go to the notch that's marked to the front of top dead center. If you are looking straight down at your flywheel with a timing light that would be the one closest to you. There are 3 notches, so the one in the middle would be TDC. If you advance it at least this far you shouldn't have any pinging or knocks. You may also want to adjust your fuel pressure upwards a little to give you that extra umph. Your gas used per mile may go down a little but you will enjoy the extra kit going up grades and the throttle response is better.:)

Originally posted by Dahmin8
When I advanced my timing it was told to me that if you are going to advance the timing that you go to the notch that's marked to the front of top dead center. If you are looking straight down at your flywheel with a timing light that would be the one closest to you. There are 3 notches, so the one in the middle would be TDC. If you advance it at least this far you shouldn't have any pinging or knocks. You may also want to adjust your fuel pressure upwards a little to give you that extra umph. Your gas used per mile may go down a little but you will enjoy the extra kit going up grades and the throttle response is better.:)


Ok, so your saying there will be visible notches? Were? On the distributer? If this is so, then I wouldnt need a timming light???? Also what bolts do I have to loosen to rotate the distributer? Do I do it whith the car turned on? and last, how do I adjust the fuel pressure? Thanks in advance for the info.

Originally posted by Protek



Ok, so your saying there will be visible notches? Were? On the distributer? If this is so, then I wouldnt need a timming light???? Also what bolts do I have to loosen to rotate the distributer? Do I do it whith the car turned on? and last, how do I adjust the fuel pressure? Thanks in advance for the info.

I've been gone so long that you probably have the answer by now, but in case you don't, here goes nothing.

In my post, I said the fly wheel had the notches.

There is a rubber plug next to your header on the left side of the motor.
When you pull it away and connect your timing light you will be able to see the notches.

There 3 bolts to loosen in order to adjust your distributor.
You should loosen the bolts with the car off.
Turn the car on and make your adjustments.
With the car still running, if you are satisfied with where the timing is set, tighten one of the bolts down with the car running.
When you tighten this bolt ( the first bolt) it just has to be snug.
Turn off your car, and tighten all 3 bolts properly.

With a stock fuel pressure regulator, you won't be able to adjust your fuel pressure.
If by chance you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, like the one from B & M, it's easy.
There is a lock bolt on top of the regulator that gets lossened.
With the car running.
Then, remove the attached vacuum line and turn the stem coming out of the regulator clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust up or down.

If you still are having trouble figuring this out, I would purchase a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car.:)

Thank you very much man. But I still dont see why Im gonna need the timing light hooked up if all I am doing is turning the distributer forward to the next notch. Do you have any numbers for me if Im using a timing light? Thanks again.

Well, I don't have any numbers. Protek, you seem like a seat of the pants kind of person. If it feels right, then you'll do it.
What I am talking about is an exact place to put your timing so that you will not get any pinging or detonation.
If you feel that your ear is that good....you won't ever need to use a timing light.
From my experience, you can advance the hell out of an engine.
Run it around the block a few time and never realize until it's too late that you've done any damage.
Honda does make some pretty bullet proof motors though.
This is after all just my opinion. I try to play it safe.
Because, my pockets aren't deep enough to afford a new engine at this time.
It's kind of like the saying goes...."You can pay me now, or pay me later."
The price of a timing light is cheap compared to the price of a new engine.
There is still room to experiment between those notches.
It is possible to go beyond them. But safety should be considered. :)

Whats up.... after I sold my N2O kit I bought some Bosch plat 4's for my 93 accord... Then I run the timing all the way up!! if any body says it can't be done and it run right they need to go for a ride with me!!! and also its better to run 89 or 93 octane when you advance timing!!! you don't have too it just makes it better!!!

Originally posted by ShockJon
Whats up.... after I sold my N2O kit I bought some Bosch plat 4's for my 93 accord... Then I run the timing all the way up!! if any body says it can't be done and it run right they need to go for a ride with me!!! and also its better to run 89 or 93 octane when you advance timing!!! you don't have too it just makes it better!!!

When you said "Then I run the timing all the way up!!", could you be more specific ShockJon? How far up is all the way up? Protek is looking for numbers in degrees. If you ran it all the way up as you are saying, then have you experienced any negative consequences? You know pinging or detonation?

Sorry... I should have been more specific..... Ok hear goes... I am not a tech or any thing but this is what I know... The bok says that the timing on the 93 accord is set from the factory at 15 + - 2 degrees so for we will just say 15 degrees.... I have a friend who has a honda and he played with his timing with a light.... he had a range of about 10 to 12 degrees both ways.... wich means that if mine is set dead in the middle and I mark it then advance it all the way then I am at somewhere around 25 degrees.... I haven't put it on a light yet to see for sure but I LIKE IT!!! with the hot plugs and high octane gas it is very very punchy!!!but you loose top end... like your 0 to 60 will improve but over that you loose power.... it all depends on what you are going to be doing street racing, 1/8 mile track, 1/4 mile track, rolling from 70mph, on what you want to do.... if you retard the timing all the way you will lug real bad of the line but once you get going it is unreal!!!! I am not through playing with my timing.... where you will realy see a difference is in the gas tank!!! if you advance it you will get better mpg, but if you retard it you better have a bank roll!!! :silly2: but any way thats what I have done with my car and I have no problems!!! I am still learning about timing.... but one thing for sure.... cam gears are better than twisting a distributor!!! even on the SOHC but I can't justify that $90 right now!!! :D

Originally posted by Dahmin8


If you ran it all the way up as you are saying, then have you experienced any negative consequences? You know pinging or detonation?
Oh yeah... if you run cheap gas it might possibly have some valve clatter ... but if you run good gas or octane boost it solve that problem... just go out ther with a 12 socket and play with it mark it where it is and then with the car running turn the ditributor a little until yo hear the motor either speed up for advanceing or slow down for retarding.. and go for a ride.... I do recomend a good plug if you are not running N2O or anything... It does make a difference!!! I have the bosch plat 4... I like it!!! :sun:

Now, which 3 bolts do I loosen? the ones on the metal piece. the piece with the distributer cap on the end of it, or the bolts holding the little black cap to the metal peice?

Ok... If you are standing at the side of the car looking at the distributor, on the metal part you will see at the top a 12mm bolt in a small curved slot..... Thats the one you need to take a marker and mark a line on it... then look clockwise from there and the others are around it.... The back one is kinda tricky you really need a 3" extension and a swivel head to make it a little easier and of course the 12mm sockett.... there are only three bolts bolt

bolt bolt

they only need to be cracked loose not even 1/2 turn.....
turning the distributor to the right will retard the timing turning it the the left will advance.... if you have a 5 speed you will love the advance timing but you need to shift about 5k rpm because its just a waste there isn't enough fuel flowing to push it hard in high rpms.... you will pull better at lower rpms than before.... remember it is better to upgrade the plugs and run at least 89 octane or better.... my car with the miles it has clatters like crazy with cheap gas and idles funny but with good gas it runs like a top!!! just play with it some and see how you like it.... I kinda like the retarded timing better but it kills the automatic off the line but on top end it pulls like crazy.... but it drinks a ton of gas!!!

Ok... If you are standing at the side of the car looking at the distributor, on the metal part you will see at the top a 12mm bolt in a small curved slot..... Thats the one you need to take a marker and mark a line on it... then look clockwise from there and the others are around it.... The back one is kinda tricky you really need a 3" extension and a swivel head to make it a little easier and of course the 12mm sockett.... there are only three bolts bolt

bolt bolt

they only need to be cracked loose not even 1/2 turn.....
turning the distributor to the right will retard the timing turning it the the left will advance.... if you have a 5 speed you will love the advance timing but you need to shift about 5k rpm because its just a waste there isn't enough fuel flowing to push it hard in high rpms.... you will pull better at lower rpms than before.... remember it is better to upgrade the plugs and run at least 89 octane or better.... my car with the miles it has clatters like crazy with cheap gas and idles funny but with good gas it runs like a top!!! just play with it some and see how you like it.... I kinda like the retarded timing better but it kills the automatic off the line but on top end it pulls like crazy.... but it drinks a ton of gas!!!

sorry my bolt pattern got messed up... hehehe:silly2:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/113820LXdistributor1.jpg

Hope this pic can help with any explainations you get Protek.:D

Well? Have you tried it yet??? :confused:

Originally posted by ShockJon
Well? Have you tried it yet??? :confused:

YEs I did, So you said to rotate the top of the distributer toward the firewall to advance it? and toward the front of the car to retard? I moved it towards the firewall about halfway between were it was set(stock) and as far as you could go.