Replace cam sensor and magnet on a '92 (3800)

My 92 was throwing codes 3-4 (MAF sensor) and 4-1 (cam sensor). I was experiencing a few stalls at stoplights and some hesitation at higher rev. I was able to get a used MAF at the junkyard for $30, and that fixed the drivability problems and the 3-4 code. A friend of mine who owns a shop of his own inspected the cam sensor a little more further than I could and found that the magnet was missing (I really liked the cheap plastic housing used to mount it too BTW).

My question...besides pulling all of what I have to pull off to replace that magnet, I figure at 155k it might not be a bad idea to change the timing chain as well. Now I'm not no ASC certified kind of guy...just someone who can figure things out %95 of the time and not blow anything up.

What else should I look for in replacing the magnet, and how hard is it to change the timing chain on the thing? (I had to have my shop friend help and show me step by step to change one out of my four banger '97 Voyager (DOHC) and that was really a pain, and something I still would not feel comfortable doing all myself. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

ah these 3800's are infamous for losing their magnets i had to change mine at about 163000 miles

im not sure which vin Code is in your 92 but mine is a vin C in my 89 olds but either way it should be about the same but anyway before you start you need to get a timing cover gasket and new water pump gasket, crankshaft oil seal, a new tensioner for your timing chain and yes while you have it a part you might as well go ahead and change your timing set mine wasn't very loose at 163,000 miles but it cant hurt cheap insurance and you might as well go and get some antifreeze and make sure you have enough oil because you might end up draining your oil and pulling the oil pan you dont have to do it but i figured it would be easier so thats what i did so if you do that you will need an oil pan gasket as well

well to start out you will have to pull your harmonic balancer so you will have to get a big enough socket and a cheater bar cause they are tighter than hell and you will also have to have someone hold a screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning or sticking a vice grip on there if you are alone and then you will have to pull the water pump off and pull the oil pan off because it is bolted to a part of the timing cover as well and then you can start pulling the bolts for the timing cover keep track of them because a few of them are different lengths if you have the gasket handy you can account for the bolts you take out one you get them all out you can look and see if anything is in the way to get the timing cover off for me the steel lines for the heater core were in the way and a big pain but anyway you will have to do some prying on the timing cover because it is pretty stuck on there after so many year but be careful its aluminum once you wrestle it off you will see the timing chain and gears and the gears for the balance shaft you will have to stick the bolt back in the crank shaft and turn the motor to make sure the dimples on the timing gears are lined up so you can keep everything in time when put it back together

once you get everything changed and put back in you will have to have some luck at getting the timing cover back on because on mine the oil pump is part of the timing cover and it floats within its housing so its hard to get everything to line up perfectly again it takes time but once you get that back on start putting bolts back in tighten them good put the water pump back on make sure the oil pan is back on and dont forget to put oil and antifreeze back in it and put the harmonic balancer back on and the belt and everything once you get it running check for leaks when i started mine it was pouring oil because i forgot to tighted up a bolt

but yeah good luck

and dont forget to put oil and antifreeze back in

I'm glad I'm not the only one that has done that. ;)
Looks like this is one of those "weekend in the garage" kind of jobs.
Thanks for all the info.

i wouldn't say weekend in the garage it only took me about 6 hours and it was something i have never done before if you take it to a shop they will do it in about 3 hours or so and it will cost ya about 5-700 bones which is ridiculous but as long as you have some mechanical experience its nothing to be scared of and i was only 18 at the time and i did it without too much hassle

With regard to changing the timing chain: WHY??

This engine has a timing chain not a timing belt. A timing belt (rubber) will wear over time and is recremended that it be replaced at about 80K miles. A timing chain (metal) doesn't wear as rubber would. It may skip a tooth due to a faulty tensioner or the metal stretching but this is the exception not the rule. I can't recall an instance where it fails for age. I think you are making work for yourself.

If I was in there, I would change the timing chain. I had an '87 at 93K that the timing gears wore down and (I think a design problem). it slipped , and ruined the valve rods. (I was at idle at a stop light when it happened). It was a major overhaul.

Does anyone know if 3800 engines are interference engines?? If so, I would change the timing chain if I had taken off the cover, its a small step, once your in there.

yes the 3800's are interference motors which is why i really didn't have a problem changing out my timing set while i had everything a part and at the time i had over 160,000 miles on my car so i figured why not its better then risking it and ruining the motor by messing up the heads and pistons