How to launch AWD?

I have a question. How are you supposed to launch an AWD without ruining the transmission? Is that even possible? I know that with AWD you can't spin the tires, and when you have a lot of power you generally have a clutch that doesn't slip, so the transmission is the one that's taking the abuse? Is there any way to avoid this damage? Educate me.

well I guess it depends on the car, but i know on the 3000GT vr-4's you can do a few 6,000 RPM launchs, but only like 3 or 4 b4 your clutch gets majorly f'd up, I dunno I guess just launch it at like 4,000??? sorry I couldn't be of much help...

Hardes I've launched is 4000 but my boost is being hampred by spark blow out so it dosent feel like much of a launch.

Well what I have come to do after 2 years is line up, rev it up between 3 and 4k, let the clutch out just enough the point before it starts moving...so it is almost 'preloaded'. Obviously it isn't really preloaded, but it's the closest you can get, then slip the clutch out fast. It gets you outta the hole damn quick, and doesn't put the full stress on the transfer case. I've tried all kinds of launching, and while 5k dumps feel like a rocket ship taking off, they aren't necessarily the fastest, and they do put TONS of stress on your drivetrain. So I'd rather slip the clutch, and let that wear out rather than destroying more expensive stuff.

Everyone thinks AWD is the easiest to launch...and they are right in a sense...it is the easiest to get out of the hole the quickest. But it still requires practice, just like any other car to get your launches good. Even dumping the clutch I bogged my first few times...just practice. It's the best way to learn.

Igovert500 is right, it takes practice, depending on how quick you learn, how much. But they do build a clutch just for this purpose. I'll try and fine it and post the maker. Myself I use a built IPT automatic with a 9 1/2" billet TQ.

The only way I see how it's possible is to slip the clutch. If you don't you'll ruin the drivetrain.

And yes, racing clutches are pretty much on/off which makes them difficult to slip, but most ppl with AWD, who are smart enough, will strengthen the drivetrain before adding such a modification.

IMO, if you have lots of power: better to have a weak clutch and get that chewed up than to have a weak gearbox with a strong clutch and get the gearbox screwed up.

I said I'd find this. I asked some racing buddies about this clutch and it's pricy but you can slip it all day and it just works better. Hope this helps

http://www.turboclutch.com/ccarbon.html

I said I'd find this. I asked some racing buddies about this clutch and it's pricy but you can slip it all day and it just works better. Hope this helps

http://www.turboclutch.com/ccarbon.html

DAMN!!! :eek7: :eek7: 3 grand for a clutch? You gotta be into some serious shit before you shell out that much for a clutch.

Yeah and that "serious shit" is called cocaine...

Damn! 3 grand!

well that link did not work for me but looking at that link name it seems they use carbon carbon for the clutch which would explain the price.

In case you are not familiar with that material it is the black stuff you see on the space shuttle's nose and wing edges where the friction is at max and normal ceramic tiles are not enough.

Damn sorry guys. Just trying to help. But hi-tech demands hi-prices. I said they were a bit pricy. My IPT automatic and TC cost alot more than the clutch and flywheel

Prices like that make my nuts hurt.

Prices like that make my nuts hurt.
Your nuts hurt from not getting any. Tell the truth, what woman would want to be seen in the jump seat of a Econoline van? Does it even have a jump seat?
Now if you were to get a Yugo like me, then your nuts wouldn't hurt.

he's got blue balls

he's got blue balls

I think we should all chip in and help Matt out. I can take care of his ball problem for about 100 Peso's. She's kinda pretty too.

I think we should all chip in and help Matt out. I can take care of his ball problem for about 100 Peso's. She's kinda pretty too.
How much is that in dollars?

Back on topic, is it true, that even if you constantly launch your car, those clutches are supposed to last 30-40k miles? If it does, than it doesn't seem that pricey anymore. If you go through a $300 clutch in $3-4k, than in the end it's the same price.

Yes they do last that long...the beauty of carbon-carbon clutches is they get better with heat. IE, you can slip them all you want, and they wont lose gripping power. However, they are heavy-duty clutches, so when they grab, if you are launching hard, kiss your weaker tranny components goodbye. It is a good clutch, but mostly I've heard they are for higher hp applications, and more for track use...again just what I've heard, but I'd be hesitant to use it, and probably opt for something in between it and OEM if I were upgrading.

If you are interested, here is a thread from another board that discusses some of the aspects of carbon-carbon clutches. Not the most informative thread, but it does have some good posts.

http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=241796&page=1&pp=10&highlight=carbon+clutch

How much is that in dollars?

Back on topic, is it true, that even if you constantly launch your car, those clutches are supposed to last 30-40k miles? If it does, than it doesn't seem that pricey anymore. If you go through a $300 clutch in $3-4k, than in the end it's the same price.

$10.00

I like your math. Never looked at it that way.

I know Igovert500 previous statement about learning to slip the clutch is fact. And even AA/Fuel dragsters use slider clutches. Most top crews have a guy that set's up the clutch. Setup wrong and they go up in smoke. Doing burn outs are impressive but not much forward movement. The idea is to launch on the verge of breaking loose, and the only way to do this is to back peddle (bad) or slide the clutch.
So if sliping the clutch is the answer then the carbon carbon would be a good choice, but pricy, like I said. But in the long run, cheaper like Clawhammer said.
If you look at some of the Pro Mod Imports running 4X4's you'll see some are running staggard wheel size. Not diameter but width. Tires on the front only for steering and the back, meats ment to hookup and transfer weight to the rear. No weight on the front, no strain on the drive train. The real serious guys are using automatics, and some the Lenco's. Now if any of you are into real serious racing and want to go that way, I have a very good friend (personal) that owns and builds the B&J (like Lenco) transmissions.
I've learned over years that you make your weakest point the strongest, and sooner or later you won't be breaking. Go to the track and get nosey and see what the hotties are using and you can pretty much bet it well work for what your after.