1996 4l60-e tran. problem

I have a 1996 4wd 4dr blazer with the automatic 4l60e transmission when i drive and it is in 1st gear (Drive) it stays in first ur driving and it just revs and revs the rpms it makes the tuck drive but it wont shift until u let off the gas then give it gas again and it seems like it shifts from 1st gear to 3rd then shifts fine into 4th but if u put the shift selector in 2 and drive it seems like its is just in 1st gear and wont shift out of it but if u down shift it manualy into 1st it acually downshifts the rpms go up and the truck slows down im so confused i dont know were to begin.

start simple with fluid and filter change/flush

i have changed the fluid and filter and it is at its proper level, im hopeing the problem is electrical i heard that it may be a ground for the computer not grounded but i dont know were, and is there a seperate computer or somthing for the transmission?

do your anti lock breaks work?

yes the anit lock work

hmmm, yeah, i am stumpet, the other times ive heard about bad shifting have been either bad clutch pack (possible, its the internals to the transmission) or bad wheel speed sencors, if yoru abs is working the wss is ok, so i guess this is to be feilded by someone else, sorry i wasnt much of a help

ok, go to your fuse panel and remove the two ECM fuses and the tranmission fuse and allow it to sit for a couple of hours.

This will reset the engine computer and the transmission computer.

It should fix the problem.

i had the batery disconected for a few hours the other day is that any different than removing the fuses? and does anyone happen to know weree the transmission computer is? Thanks

disconnecting the battery is the same thing as pulling the fuses, you lost connection and are forcing the computer ther "relearn" everything

i had the batery disconected for a few hours the other day is that any different than removing the fuses? and does anyone happen to know weree the transmission computer is? Thanks

Keep the battery hooked up and remove the:

Two ECM Fuses
Transmission Fuse

Transmission computer is with the engine computer.

Let it sit for 30 minutes with the fuses out to clear everything.

Ok, i pulled the fuses and that didnt work but what i noticed was it seemed like my rpm gauge was acting a little funny when i was letting of the gas and braking it would fall down to a between 500-1000rpms and bounce around a little but after i noticed it for the first time i dont think it did it again and the spedomter seemed like it moved weird but maybey its just in my head i dont think that is it idk and also when i down shift going around 45ish from 3rd(d) into 2 it just revs and dosnt do anything like i lost second gear and its in neutral but u can still downshift into 1st

How long did you pull the fuses for?

i pulled the fueses for 45 minutes

apunktr, the problem does not seem to be with the memory in the computer. I don't know why you were told that "pulling the fuse should fix the problem".

By the way, what is the difference between removing the ECM fuses and removing the battery? That data is stored in the ECM's RAM, which needs constant voltage to retain that information.

I wish I could help, but transmissions aren't my strong point. I'd say you have more than a slight issue, when you apparently downshift into 2nd and have no engine braking. It is likely you're going to need transmission service by dropping the transmission pan, at the very least.

apunktr, the problem does not seem to be with the memory in the computer. I don't know why you were told that "pulling the fuse should fix the problem".

By the way, what is the difference between removing the ECM fuses and removing the battery? That data is stored in the ECM's RAM, which needs constant voltage to retain that information.

I wish I could help, but transmissions aren't my strong point. I'd say you have more than a slight issue, when you apparently downshift into 2nd and have no engine braking. It is likely you're going to need transmission service by dropping the transmission pan, at the very least.

Please don't start saying other people's attempt to help is poor.

Seeing how Transmissions "aren't you strong point", how the hell can you question something that I did that cured a shifting problem just this week.

Resetting the computer is the first logical step seeing the transmission is computer and sensor controlled.

It worked for me and that is why I recommended it.

So from now on don't start tearing apart someone's advice when you have dick all help with yourself.

BlazerLT, you frequently assert your opinion and advise over other peoples, and frequently assert that it will fix their issues. That's not wise, or accurate. Why is it OK for you to do so? I wish you'd follow your own advise, about not tearing apart other people's advise.

Why would you tell someone that removing their ECM fuse should fix this issue without ANY further info or diagnostics? That's a very large assumption, which probably gave false hopes to the person. Fact is, I looked in my shop manual, and no where does it state to reset the ECM for an issue like this. I'd trust the book over one person's experience, any day. I'm sorry, but do you honestly think that all transmission issues are that simple? I don't recall your issue being exactly the same as his, either. I have a hard time understanding how you "fixed" your issue with simply resetting the computer. I've never seen any vehicle have "logic lock" as these Blazers (if that is true), if that really is the case. I'd be afraid that your issue will come back, honestly.

I asked what the difference is between removing the ECM fuses and removing battery power, since both affect the ECMs RAM. Do you know the answer? I don't think that there is a difference.

I attempted to help. And I was honest by saying that transmissions aren't my strong point. Atleast I'm upfront about my abilities and I don't pretend to know the answers or act like my advise is the only legitimate advise. But thanks for your attitude by using my honesty against me.

By the way, "when you have dick all help with yourself" :confused:

Please don't start saying other people's attempt to help is poor.

Seeing how Transmissions "aren't you strong point", how the hell can you question something that I did that cured a shifting problem just this week.

Resetting the computer is the first logical step seeing the transmission is computer and sensor controlled.

It worked for me and that is why I recommended it.

So from now on don't start tearing apart someone's advice when you have dick all help with yourself.

Again, my problem is not with your advice, but my problem is with again discrediting my advice as being poor.

You have no right to do that to me or anyone here.

I posted a potential solution seeing it did help me in my tranny shifting problems.

Since I cleared and reset the computer and the transmission computer, my shifting problems have vanished.

I also talked about my problems with a transmission service center and yes, this could easily be the problem and the fix and they were not surprised at all to see it work.

But realistically, my problem is not with your advice, but with your disguarding my help as being ridiculous or something when you even you admit you don't know much about transmissions.

I am not saying I am a pro or anything, but you don't see me going around saying their advice is wrong.

If you don't have a definite solution yourself, don't arrogantly put down other member's ideas like you somehow know better.

Let's move on, we both have spoken our minds.

I consider this issue done and let's move on with helping this guy with his shifting issues.

Ok, i pulled the fuses and that didnt work but what i noticed was it seemed like my rpm gauge was acting a little funny when i was letting of the gas and braking it would fall down to a between 500-1000rpms and bounce around a little but after i noticed it for the first time i dont think it did it again and the spedomter seemed like it moved weird but maybey its just in my head i dont think that is it idk and also when i down shift going around 45ish from 3rd(d) into 2 it just revs and dosnt do anything like i lost second gear and its in neutral but u can still downshift into 1st

The two major sensors that do most of the transmisison control is the TPS and the VSS.

Seeing your rpms were acting weird, your tps may have a dead spot which will confuse the transmission.

my 99 4wd blazer w/4l60e transmission did similar things, that particular problem on my blazer was the lockin/lockout solenoid < 10.00, had to drop pan drain fluid and replace solenoid.

I would look to the area 99 church suggested, but a little more in depth, the 95-97 4l60e's are known to have defective valvebodies... Your best bet is to take to a reputable transmission shop (stay away from chain stores) and have them check it. What you haven't mentioned is if your SES light has come on at all. If it has and you go to autozone to get the codes scanned then you might be able to focus in on the problem a little bit better. But at this point I would get it to a tranny shop and let them look at the valve body and run some diagnostics.

I have no service engine light, are there any vacuum lines going to the transmission?

BlazerLT, I don't think you understand. I did not discredit your advise. My problem was that you said your advise "should fix" their issue, without further nothing anything. That is a very large assumption and very inaccurate. Just as people suggesting to throw parts on a vehicle after hearing the initial problem, rather than further diagnose the issue.

That bothers me when I see such advise, as there are MANY things that can cause issues like this.

Yes, your ECM reset was something to try and I'm not dismissing that. However, I honestly do have belief that your issue (or other issues that this "fixes") may return. I guess I'm a person who needs to find the reason for things.

I've heard, and seen, other intermittent issues caused my ECM glitches, but something like this, I have concern that it is more involved than that.

Again, I'm not dismissing your ECM clear advise. It is just that your wording, at times, or perhaps it is your "arrogant" belief, is what I think is a problem. Telling someone that a certain issue is because of X without further hearing information, or further proper diagnostics, is not a solid method and can lead to wasted money, time, and false hopes.

Please understand that such behavior is what I have a problem with. Do you want to see people waste time and money, and provide false hope? Telling them that a problem "should be" fixed by doing X can cause that.

Transmissions may not be my strong point, but that doesn't mean that I don't know anything about transmissions or that my knowledge is any less than yours. I've been working on cars for almost 2 decades now, which I understand is longer than you have stated to knowing how to work on cars. I'm not an expert either and I've never claimed to be such, but I'd like to think that I'm not an idiot. I'm not saying that you are, by the way.

The only thing I said about your ECM advise, is that there should be no difference between unhooking the battery for several minutes, and removing the ECM fuses. Both affect the ECM's RAM memory, which has the same affect, as far as I understand. Just as it was said before, it is clear that the ECM's memory is not the issue here and that is why I replied telling the person that the problem is not the ECM memory, as him removing the battery for several minutes generally clears the ECM's RAM memory.

I'm not trying to cause trouble, and I don't want trouble. But you aren't perfect either, and your attitude at times isn't better than other people's here. You do the same thing, at times, as well. You've discredited many people's advise, and ripped them apart. Please follow your own advise as well. I'm willing to do so.

As far as the TPS, while TPS can go bad like that, generally, drivability (hesitations) and the like is accompanied with TPS issues. Not dimissing the TPS suggestion, but providing further information.

By the way, a transmission shop that actually is giving up the chance to make money by telling you that an ECM reset can fix these types of issues? Must be a rare transmission business you found.

The above was an attempt at a joke. I don't know too many business like that who would throw away a chance at making some money, by answering such a question, rather than asking you to bring it in so that they could inspect the transmission (and charge you).

Good luck with your issue BlazerLT, I hope it remains "fixed", and good luck apunktr as well. I wish I could further help, but I'm honest with my knowledge to drop out of here.

I have no service engine light, are there any vacuum lines going to the transmission?

No, your transmission is computer controlled and has no vacuum lines.

on my 99, i replaced the pwm-tcc solenoid (fixed hard 1-2 shift) replaced lockup/lockdown solenoid(2x), purchased sonnax sure cure 4l60e kit,dropped pan, and valve body tues night, will update later, but you are describing what was going on in mine. i had some other issues also.sonnax has a web site

Do you have reverse?

If reverse works it is likely a valve body/solenoid problem. My understanding is these types of problems are generally accompanied by an SES light, however.

If you reverse is also gone, you almost certainly have a broken reaction sun shell. They're a reasonably notorious weak spot, and when they go you lose R, 2, and 4. What you're perceiving as the 3-4 shift could be the torque converter locking up. I hope that isn't the case, but from what I found most commonly solenoid/valve body problems result a late 1-2 shift, not a complete lack of engagement. If you do a search you should be able to find a fairly length thread I posted about two months ago with a copy of the TSB and some other useful information.