Thinking of turbo-ing

While saving up money for a RWD car I am driving a civic, which is pretty slow. So i decided to go turbo on the 128XXX motor.
A few questions I have:
Should I go Synthetic for oil or stay organic?
Which cars/models use T3? (Dodge, volvo,saab-but which model, year?)
For recirculation can you just weld in a port anywhere in the piping and recirculate it in there? If not where should it be?

Parts I am using (have only some of them):
Saab/Volvo/Dodge T3 Turbo
Some pretty cheap recirculating BOV
WG will be on the turbo (i am thinking so because car manufacturers usually use only those)
Jonnyracecar.com 8" IC
Custom piping
Injectors (some over 400cc)
EPROM tunning (the only thing I have lol, but still need to resolder ECU to accept the chips)

For oil I would suggest full synthetic. Oil is the turbos life blood.

For the Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth cars you could find the T3 used from 1984 to 1987 on any car that came with the Turbo I. That would include cars like the Omni GHLS and GLHS, the Shelby Charger, the Dodge Daytona, the Dodge 600, and a lot of K bodied LeBarons. There are some other cars but I can't remember which, there were hundreds of thousands that came with the early Turbo I. However, I doubt this is the turbo you want to use as it is different than the one used on the Turbo II later from 1987 to 1989. Your best bet is to look for a Daytona with a Turbo II if you need parts for one. Or you could head over to the Turbo Dodge forums. There are people that are selling Turbo II T3s every now and then.

Here is a page that has info on the stock turbos used on the FWD Mopars:

Turbo database. (http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_turbo.html)

Another way to get a nice turbo is the VF series that come off the stock subaru's. Most people upgrade theres, and sell the stock one on ebay. Look around there for a sweet deal..

Thanks, that was helpfull.

Sounds good to me. Z31s use a T3 as well. Just throw a clutch in the mix to help get power to teh ground. Along with some gauges(namely wideband) so you know whats going on with your engine.

gauges are a must, boost and A/F will definetly be purchased.
About oil, I heard that older cars might start leaking, sometimes just about everywhere. What should be done to prevent this, or just stay organic maybe?
By the way I am not doing this to race or anything, maybe play around. This car is daily driver, just want it to be a lil faster and want a project. And the clutch might be replaced, it still has good amount of life in it (judging by distance pedal travels).

Although another question about O2 sensor, because mine just crapped out a few weeks ago, should I go ahead and get a wideband for tunning? Or a universal stock will be alright?

You should keep the stocker and weld in another bung for the wideband. The stocker is usually way too close to the engine anyways. Wideband O2 sensors typically require about 24" of space between them and the engine. Organic oil will be fine. Most turbos are designed to work with most engine oils. Should possibly try a blend first.

Thanks for replies,
nissanfanatic, by a blend you mean a mix of the two oils? If so what should be the proportions?
I ask a lot of questions lol.

Most companies sell synthetic blend. Its already blended.

A high performance synthetic oil is of course the best choice, especially for a turbocharged engine.

Today there are better, but still cheap alternatives to the T3 turbocharger which came during the 1970:ties. The MHI TD04 series turbochargers are a good choice for example, faster response, higher efficiency and probably more compact. Many (all?) are also fitted with a 360 degree thrust bearing. The TD04 is availible with both a built in wastegate and a built in compressor bypass valve.

I was thinking of a different turbo as well, thought of the T25, as a lot of people sell them when upgrading their SR and can get them off of Z32. Also was looking at Subaru Turbos, don't know much about them though, but like the prices.
Another question lol: Will a T25 be a better choice in making power accros the whole powerband? T3 will spool around high 3000rpm (guess), and for a 1.6L I think smaller is better (can't believe I said that) for a daily driver.
Thanks for replies.

I can easily say that IHI is a respectable and good company. Subaru uses IHI turbo's on all of there models, and are very well known to build long lasting desial (SP?) turbo's. You could try and find a T25 or T28 off an SR or something like you have mentioned. Good luck with the project.

Also, when you buy a wideband O2 sensor, get one that has a 5 wire sensor, they are much more accurate than the cheap 3 and 4 wires that are being sold about on ebay and such (or so i have heard)

I just ordered a normal O2 sensor yesterday (oem) and will get one eventually with A/F gauge to monitor that mixture. I can get a Subaru Turbo pretty cheap from a friend, so I think Ill just get it. I still have about 2 month before starting the project for numerous reasons, so Ill see.
Thanks for information.

will get one eventually with A/F gauge to monitor that mixture.

Save your money and get a wideband. A regular A/F gauge is an absolute waste of money and is nothing but a pretty lights display.

yeah, i assumed you meant wideband. Well when you get a wideband o2 sens (if you do) then try and get one with a 5 wire sensor...

Save your money and get a wideband. A regular A/F gauge is an absolute waste of money and is nothing but a pretty lights display.
I ment a wideband :), I am installing the OEM today. Right now I am thinking of buyingall the main components, the wideband O2 will come when tunning is needed (the very end).
Hit_N_Run-player- Is 5 wire more accurate?

Five wire is just the sensor itself. Most wideband sensors are five wire. The PLX unit is a five wire IIRC. It is about the cheapest unit out there. www.streetrays.com I got mine for $318 shipped.

yeah, 5 is alot more accurate. Many people sell cheap 4 wires and was just trying to make sure you dont get ripped off by buying a 4 or 3 wire. The one that nissanfanatic mentioned seems like a pretty good deal.

A wideband sensor itself isn't that expensive, it's just that the sensor needs some drive electronics to work. So unless you have an aftermarket ECU capable of using wide band sensors, the additional electronics must be bought.

The two common sensors are NGK UEGO and Bosch LSU. For example:
http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/en/sensoren/pdf/lambda_sensors/MiniLSU49.pdf
http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/en/sensoren/pdf/lambda_sensors/LSU.pdf

Normal lambda sensors usually have three wires, +, - and one for the heater function.

Ahh, I see, thanks for the info.