replace window motor

alright, my girlfriends sister needs her driver side window motor replaced and i have stupidly volunteered to do it. (2000 grand am) can anyone tell me what ive gotten myself into? also, does anyone know of any step by step sites about how to replace the motor? suggestions? help please
:feedback:

This is for a camaro/Firebird but the steps are very similiar and will give you a idea of what your in for http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html . Good Luck

John

The Gran AM window motor is much easier than the Firebird link you suppiled FormulaLT1 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=144075). GM has gotten away from the rivets and uses bolts for the window motors/regulators.


All you have to do is remove the inside door panel, the water deflector and then all that is left is the electrical connecotr and a handful of 10 mm headed bolts.

Well like I said it was just for a general visual of what he was going to be doing like he asked for but I do agree. Drilling out the rivets was a pain in the ass.

Yo, flat, don't forget to describe how to remove the window from the riser channel. Those clips that hold the window base onto it's channel are more fragile than i thought. Any advice ya can pass along re that, would sure be appreciated by us.

Yo, flat, as an OT aside, congratulations on your Master Certificate, I know that is one he** of an accomplishment.

Well like I said it was just for a general visual of what he was going to be doing like he asked for but I do agree. Drilling out the rivets was a pain in the ass.

If you can change a window motor in a GM F body you can change any GM window motor. The F body is the hardest to do, every single nut and bolt is an adjustment on the F body.

Formula that is an excellent site with great info. Most window motors had the same setup minus the adjustments of the F body. GM has made strides in how eas it is to replace a window motor but they also went back severely on the quality of those regulators.

At one time you had to buy the motor and regulator as one unit but GM is rolling out seperate parts for them.

Yo, flat, don't forget to describe how to remove the window from the riser channel. Those clips that hold the window base onto it's channel are more fragile than i thought. Any advice ya can pass along re that, would sure be appreciated by us.

When I am doing a window motor or regulator the best thing to do is get some tape and tape the glass in the full up position. This way yopu don't need to remove the glass from the door.

As for the flimsy plastic clips> GM sells those clips and the easiest way to get them off is to cut the clip in half at the base of the window. Now you will have 2 clips one on each side of the window. Next mark the location of the clip with a marker, go get a blow dryer heat up the plastic piece good. With a putty knife gently pry on the clip. Once the glue softens from the heat it will pop right off.

Go get a good 2 part epoxy and glue the new clip in place at the marked location.

Usually these clips are broken even before you can see them, so there is no saving them. But at least you can replace the clips on your own.

Yo, flat, as an OT aside, congratulations on your Master Certificate, I know that is one he** of an accomplishment.

Thank you.

These tests used to mean alot more to me than they do now.

The ASE corp is just a money making company and can care less about techs. I have to recert in auto trans next month which costs 70 dollars just for one test I need to do. I have no choice in these tests since GM has made them required of dealerships. The first time I tookthe auto trans test I never worked on one in my life yet I passed the test since I knew how to read a prep book.

Also the ASE tests are so messed up kids straight out of tech school can pass them no problem. Several years later these kids are use to the real world and have trouble with the same tests. The tests are not real world tests and the questions are outdated.

As for the GM training it has become second rate. It seems the training had a high fail rate and the dealerships were spending lots of money sending the tech to school that they made the stuff easy to pass. For me to go to one school costs the dealer close to 1K not including lost production in the shop.

I have met smarter people on this forum then some of the ones I have worked with. FormulaLT1, Hypsi, GTP dad, Big L come to mind right away. These guys would have no problem working in a dealer. I can teach anyone how to fix most car problems with the right tools.

Ayep, buddy [Master also] says same thing, get your hands into the thing, and ya practically toss the manual away!!!!!!!!

Regards,

Tam