Head Gasket Failure in the 3.4 Engine?

I have noticed some worrysome symptoms in our 95 Cutlass Supreme Coupe the last week or so. I noticed a little bit of oil floating in the coolant overflow. Also when the car is running, after a while the low coolant light comes on, and there is some bubbling in the overflow resuvour that has a wiff of exhaust gas. I am not sure if this car has an oil cooler, have not really seen one, so all the symptoms seem to point to a head gasket. Was quoted that fixing the problem on this car will be $1500 to $2000 at a repair shop. There is no antifreeze in the oil pan yet, and the engine still runs well, so there does not seem to be any extensive damage yet.

I am wondering about my options. I have done a lot of mechanical jobs in the past, but am not sure I can change the problem head gasket and get the car properly timed. This would not be very expensive to try, but if I mess it up, the engine will be toast. I can have it repaired, but will it be worth it for this car? What should this type of work cost, and how do I find a compentent mechanic who knows how to work on this engine? (I live in South Seattle area). Would it be worthwhile to have someone swap out a used 3.1 engine for the 3.4 at this point? The 3.1 should be lower maintenace, and keep the car on the road. Do wrecking yards do this type of engine swapping?

I would appreciate any experiences/advise that you can provide. The forum has already helped me solve the failure to start/key resister problem that I would have never solved without help.

If you want a good inexpensive alternative, try K&W Block Sealer. Specifically formulated for your type of problem. It works great, I have put it in several of my cars. Just follow the directions carefully, flush out until mostly all the glycol is out. It is not one of those el cheapo 'add to Anti Freeze' temporary fixes. It will fix it up permanently by forming a cold weld where the crack or tear might be.

A lot cheaper than pulling the heads, for sure.

Stuff works great and the company stands behind it 100%!!

Made by CRC Industries, Warminster, PA.

Good luck!

If you want a good inexpensive alternative, try K&W Block Sealer. Specifically formulated for your type of problem. It works great, I have put it in several of my cars. Just follow the directions carefully, flush out until mostly all the glycol is out. It is not one of those el cheapo 'add to Anti Freeze' temporary fixes. It will fix it up permanently by forming a cold weld where the crack or tear might be.

A lot cheaper than pulling the heads, for sure.

Stuff works great and the company stands behind it 100%!!

Made by CRC Industries, Warminster, PA.


Good luck!


Thank you for the information. I am trying to use the K&W block sealer, but I want to make sure I can drain the block when it needs to go into drying mode. Does any one know where to locate the engine block coolant drain on the 3.4? The manual says it is in the rear of the engine near the crank position sensor. It is tight in the rear of the engine, and I do not know exactly where to look.

How did the Block Seal work?

Inquiring minds need to know!! LOL

How did the Block Seal work?

Inquiring minds need to know!! LOL


Thank you for the Block Seal tip. I went through the entire process, and it went well. Ran the car about 50 minutes with the seal in the system. The car is now running well, but there is still some air bubbling up through the cooling system. No overheating; no coolant evident through the exhaust system. We are going to run the car a couple of weeks and see if we are still getting bubbles, and see if we see oil in the coolant. Pulled the front three spark plugs; no evidence of any problem, have not pulled the rear plugs yet. Maybe the air bubbles/oil resude. are comming from elsewhere.