Ball Joints that can be serviced?

On a 99 Durango 4WD, I had my lower ball joints changed at a Meineke 11 months ago. They installed sealed unit ball joints that have a 1 year warranty on parts only & 90 days on labor. Labor is 330 of the 400 dollar bill. Just recently the driver side ball joint started making noise on bumbs and in turns.

I took it in to the same place and he did not think it was a ball joint noise but looked at it anyway. both grease boots appeared to be empty or nearly so. He injected grease with a needle attachment until both boots spewed grease. It still made the noise for a day but is now as quiet as can be. He said that if it did go away the ball joints should be replaced.

1. I already bought the same attachment for my grease gun. Can I just do what he did every few months or whenever the noise returns and be reasonably safe?

2. Is there a brand of ball joint that is best? Or a national chain that offers an extended warranty & better parts? These are pressed in and the torsion bars has to be removed, so I'm not sure that I could do this myself? Maybe it not as bad as I think? Have done all the other work since I've had it other than the tranny that blew up at 90,000.

Note: Called a local carquest and they have Moog Ball joints with a lifetime warranty. Part #K7267. They are $76.52 a piece, but I have not price around other local parts stores to compare. Found it on www.rockauto.com for $54.79 plus shipping, but don't know alot about them. Their website says that they have been in biz since 1999.
They are rated as satisfactory by the BBB, having regestered and solved one complaint. 866-762-5288 is their toll free #.

I put moogs on our 99, I posted a few minutes ago on what I did in another thread. THey have zirks, so can be greased. You do not need to do anything with the tortion bars. Just jack up the truck via the chassis (like with a flat tire). You have to remove the calipers, and spindle, as well as the cv axle. I had never done this before, but decided to after I got several quotes. I figured it all out in a couple hours. The press I rented from autozone worked just fine to press the old joint out. The upper joints had to be ground off as they are riveted on. But the bolts supplied with the moogs are designed to fit the rive holes.

As another note. With ttruck jacked up the lower control arm is swung down more than enough to allow the ball joint press to be used, without messing with the torsion bar. It took a pretty good amount of torque on the press to get the joint moving. THey sometimes flair out the edges of the joint once it is pressed in. These can be hit back tieh a screwdriver to make things easier

I put Moogs in my wife's 98 Durango as the OEMs were toast according to Maryand Safety Inspection and well - to be fair - reality-check standards.

We got ours from www.mydodgeparts.com.

The replacement ball-joints have been working like a champ, not a squeek at all. That's not bad considering I haven't lubed them in the two and half years they've been on the truck.

Mytruckco, I'm going to look up your thread on your approach for ball-joint replacement. Did you take any pictures along the way?