DOHC ZC Rods

Just wondering what rods i should get for my DOHC ZC, should i get ones for an 89 teg?
need to know so i can start getting my internals ready for installation when the times ready
also need 2 know what car i get pistons for... (keeping in mind i'm going turbo) and thinking about boring the block 0.025 over

also, are eagle h-beam rods good?

taken from the zcr...
the 86-87 Teg Rods (Pg6) are bigger, its noticable but not as big as the B18 LS rods, But the Problem with the PG6 Rods are that all of em your goin to find are going to be worn out, If you bought new ones, you coulda bought Crower Pro billet instead for the price. All stock rods other than the PG6 & 1.5l's, are the same in D motors, But again they will have alot of fatigue on them. If your looking for cost effectiveness, go with some SCAT rods, there about $250 a set and are hella better than stock.

About the B18LS rods, Theres several probs to get them in a D motor, you have to Shave the sides down just a hair on the Crank side, to get them to fit between the counterweights. Second, they have a 21mm wristpin, the only D pistons that are 21mm are dished. And if your thinking of using a B series piston you better sleeve the block then, boring 6+mm would be disastrous to our stock sleeves.

I say go with Scat if you dont have the money for Eagle, or just leave the stockers in there.

oh yea, and the pistons will be for any d16, 75mm bore

alright
i was told eagle LS rods would work but i'd hafta bore the wrist pin hole out

if boring the block wont be good for it then i'll stick with stock size, i wanna build the internals so its almost bullet proof so i can run 20 pounds of boost if i wanted to and not hurt anything. and i wouldnt mind dishing out the cash for proper eagle rods if they are going to work great. also, i would be getting a block guard as well just to be on the safe side and possibly re-do the valve springs, retainers etc.... i want this motor nice and strong

boring your block is fine, just 6mm is a little overboard for our weak sleeves. go like .20 over and you'll be safe

From what I have hearn block guards do nothing and can cause problems. Just what I have been told.

As far as eagle rods they are pretty good rods. I think the H beams are rated for like 600 hp (right?)

What kind of turbo do you plan to use? 20 psi is going to have to be a bigger size turbo. More psi isn't always better. I have seen a T28 D16 beat a t3/t4 D16. The guy with the t28 was running 14 psi I believe. The guy with the t3/t4 was running 16-18. The t28 spooled a lot faster so by time the other guys turbo spooled he was playing catch up. He started to pull on him, but on our little 1/8 mile track he didn't have a chance.

boring your block is fine, just 6mm is a little overboard for our weak sleeves. go like .20 over and you'll be safe


whoops, just re-read what i wrote, i ment .25 over. not .025 hmm, i dunno, cuz if i bore the block i need bigger pistons so i should look for pistons first before i think about boring lol

From what I have hearn block guards do nothing and can cause problems. Just what I have been told.

As far as eagle rods they are pretty good rods. I think the H beams are rated for like 600 hp (right?)

What kind of turbo do you plan to use? 20 psi is going to have to be a bigger size turbo. More psi isn't always better. I have seen a T28 D16 beat a t3/t4 D16. The guy with the t28 was running 14 psi I believe. The guy with the t3/t4 was running 16-18. The t28 spooled a lot faster so by time the other guys turbo spooled he was playing catch up. He started to pull on him, but on our little 1/8 mile track he didn't have a chance.

i'm going to be running a td04 turbo, its from an automatic talon and the wastegates been welded shut, so when i make my manifold i'll have to make sure i weld a plate on so i can bolt on my wastegate too
the reason i chose this was because it would spool like nothing and i have heard of talon guys running them upto 20 pounds :)

the tdo4 is out of an automatic and is smaller than the tdo5 i dont believe a tdo4 would be capable of producing 20 psi

the tdo4 is out of an automatic and is smaller than the tdo5 i dont believe a tdo4 would be capable of producing 20 psi

Thats what I thought. If I remember right it "runs out of breath" at like 14-16 psi.(maybe it was 18)

the tdo4 is out of an automatic and is smaller than the tdo5 i dont believe a tdo4 would be capable of producing 20 psi

:dunno: i've just heard of talon guys being able to get them upto 20 psi

i have a buddy that has a 5 speed talon and he said he wants to trade me turbos because mines smaller and will spool faster but i told him no way :D

Find out what kind of turbo he has. Maybe you will get lucky and someone before him upgraded it to a super 16g or 20g.

Oh i forgot to add you need to get your block bored before ordering pistons. Just incase for some reason they have to bore your block bigger. (ex ovalized cyl. walls.)

Find out what kind of turbo he has. Maybe you will get lucky and someone before him upgraded it to a super 16g or 20g.


yea well why would i swap a near brand new turbo for a used one?
the one i have has no shaft play at all and looks like it was ran for maybe 1000kms if that. i'm just gonna stick with this one

yea well why would i swap a near brand new turbo for a used one?
the one i have has no shaft play at all and looks like it was ran for maybe 1000kms if that. i'm just gonna stick with this one

Oh ok, I didn't know you had a new one. I thought you had picked it up off a used talon. Yeah if you got a new one just stick with yours.

Oh ok, I didn't know you had a new one. I thought you had picked it up off a used talon. Yeah if you got a new one just stick with yours.


yep :)
the aluminum housing is still shiny as well, not a spec of dirt on it :)

Oh i forgot to add you need to get your block bored before ordering pistons. Just incase for some reason they have to bore your block bigger. (ex ovalized cyl. walls.)
nah dude, buy the pistons, measure them with a micrometer, then bore to what the piston size actually is. So when youre finishing it up and doing the honing, you can get the piston to cylinder wall clearance dead on instead of hoping the pistons you bought after honing fit right.

i would go say go with the ls rods and no block guard insted go with block posting of filling. then run uberdata. you can find the info on the ls rods and blockposting and filling on homemadeturbo.com. but if you want to really make power i would go to a t3/t4 and sell the turbo you have now one ebay. if you are worried about lag just retard the timing and there will be little lag.

nah dude, buy the pistons, measure them with a micrometer, then bore to what the piston size actually is. So when youre finishing it up and doing the honing, you can get the piston to cylinder wall clearance dead on instead of hoping the pistons you bought after honing fit right.

Ummm...how about no. If he buys .010 for example and there is ovalization or damage to the walls and they have to bore it .020 over then what? Now he has the wrong size pistons. Trust me take the block to the machine shop and let them look at it. Bore it to what you need then buy your pistons.

Thats why you measure before buying. Or if he didnt measure and that happpened, he could send back the pistons and get the proper size. What happens if the block is bored and honed and your pistons arent exactly the same size as they were advertised as, all of the sudden you have out of spec piston to wall gap. and then what if he cant hone any more without making the walls too thin? Then you need a new block. honestly, we both make good points. This is just what my engines teacher taught me and this is what i'll do for every engine i build.

well.... projects being put on hold for awhile now, got fired from my job yesterday, was accused of stealing because i hid a part in the back and they thought i was gonna take it, they got the cops involved and charged me with theft and forgery because i made a fake order slip so i didnt have to pay in advance... so now i'm taking them to court for wrongful termination and for trying to make me look like someone i'm not (i.e. theif)