*PICS*Deadened the hell out of my truck + more!

WOOOHOOOO!!!!!

WOW, so excited. Well, Jason (UndercoverPunk on caraudio.com) came over yesterday at about 1 p.m. to help me out on some deadening. Deadener was SecondSkin Damplifier and SecondSkin Spectrum.

After borrowing my truck from the mechanic's (Just got a whole new transmission, 3 weeks later...problems... thank god for 3 year warranty) We took it home and began to strip it down. Took All the seats, body panels, and carpet out. There are AT LEAST 2 layers of Damplifier EVERYWHERE seen (sometime 3 layers). Spectrum didn't get used yet....MAYBE i'll put the full gallon on the floor next time. :)


Here's a pic of a *few* things in the bed of the truck...
http://img93.exs.cx/img93/3817/p32713832my.th.jpg (http://img93.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img93&image=p32713832my.jpg)

After about... 10 hours... we decided enough deadening...just about out. Plenty of pics (all clickable thumbnails):
Some overall shots:
http://img162.exs.cx/img162/5872/p32713705ni.th.jpg (http://img162.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img162&image=p32713705ni.jpg)
http://img105.exs.cx/img105/6192/p32713710dj.th.jpg (http://img105.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img105&image=p32713710dj.jpg)
Ceiling:
http://img105.exs.cx/img105/3152/p32713727ub.th.jpg (http://img105.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img105&image=p32713727ub.jpg)
http://img70.exs.cx/img70/3223/p32713759ty.th.jpg (http://img70.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img70&image=p32713759ty.jpg)
Back Wall & Rear Side Walls:
http://img70.exs.cx/img70/5918/p32713735ac.th.jpg (http://img70.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img70&image=p32713735ac.jpg)
http://img124.exs.cx/img124/6076/p32713740ky.th.jpg (http://img124.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img124&image=p32713740ky.jpg)
http://img124.exs.cx/img124/4628/p32713764fe.th.jpg (http://img124.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img124&image=p32713764fe.jpg)

MORE PICS COMING IN 2nd POST!!!!

NG

Rear Side Wall:
http://img124.exs.cx/img124/3436/p32713799gj.th.jpg (http://img124.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img124&image=p32713799gj.jpg)
Back Wall:
http://img124.exs.cx/img124/2107/p32713774ae.th.jpg (http://img124.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img124&image=p32713774ae.jpg)
http://img124.exs.cx/img124/1014/p32713800rd.th.jpg (http://img124.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img124&image=p32713800rd.jpg)

Also, had the chance to resin the inside of my 18XXX box, big thanks to my brother (qutorial on caraudio.com) for helping with that, Pics:
http://img175.exs.cx/img175/1493/p32713849wl.th.jpg (http://img175.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img175&image=p32713849wl.jpg)
http://img46.exs.cx/img46/1007/p32713885td.th.jpg (http://img46.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img46&image=p32713885td.jpg)
http://img110.exs.cx/img110/2305/p32713879tb.th.jpg (http://img110.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img110&image=p32713879tb.jpg)

Whew....and it's done. I can't thank Jason enough!!!!! Without him it would NOT be done...and it wouldn't look as great! We got done @ about 4:30 am this morning...thanks again Jason!!!!!!!


NG

PS: Waiting on my subwoofer amplifier to get back...just beating on the body panels and the roof it sounds amazingly solid. Results will be in when the sub & amp are back in!

Why did you use the foil backing? That's a little pricey and is usually only used for areas like the floor and firewall because of heat issues.

Also, what's with the box and resin? Never seen anyone brush MDF with resin. I can't see how that will help because you can't get the resin to soak into the wood before it sets up. If you need it to be real strong, I suggest using HDF instead.

Why did you use the foil backing? That's a little pricey and is usually only used for areas like the floor and firewall because of heat issues.

Also, what's with the box and resin? Never seen anyone brush MDF with resin. I can't see how that will help because you can't get the resin to soak into the wood before it sets up. If you need it to be real strong, I suggest using HDF instead.

Buddy, I know what I'm doing.
You seem to have plenty of questions...here's one for you: "Why question me so much?"

Anyways, it is SecondSkin Damplifier...one of THE BEST dampeners available. I know the owner, and he know EVERYTHING in the world about dampening materials. His product is butyl-based...not asphalt...and has great acoustical dampening properties. It has the HIGHEST heat tolerances of any product on the market. His products are superior to dynamat in every way. Also, pricey... :) That's 100+ sq. ft. and let's just say....I paid less than $100, much less considering I won 50+ sq. ft. of it in a raffle.

As for as resining the box, you use a little less hardener. Then you put two coats on the inside. In all honesty, it decreases flexibility and makes the inside solid. Also, it's MUCH cheaper than building a huge box with HDF.

:)

NG

the resin was a great idea, if there was any flexing in the boxes, it would remove it completely, but i gotta say.. if u were afraid of flexing, why not just make it outta 1" mdf in the first place?

anyways good stuff

very impressed.. nice job NG

the resin was a great idea, if there was any flexing in the boxes, it would remove it completely, but i gotta say.. if u were afraid of flexing, why not just make it outta 1" mdf in the first place?

anyways good stuff

Not really too afraid, just had some resin that I got for free...and got my brother to help out on a job...so that's what I used it for ;)

very impressed.. nice job NG

Thanks!

NG

I used a shitton of polyurethane inside my box...... achieves the same results

ngsm13, I wasn't doubting that the Second Skin does or doesn't work. I use it too on some applications. I was just curious why you used the stuff used for heat all over the vehicle?

HDF isn't expensive. It is usually only about $10 more than MDF. If you took in account of the time spent putting resin on this box, HDF would have paid for itself. I am lucky. There is a wood machine shop that supplies me with free HDF unless I need a hole sheet at one time.

I understand the idea of using resin. The only problem is that you'd need to slap about a 1/4" of the stuff on to make it effective. At that point HDF would really pay off. Even 1" MDF would work as well too. On your set up, you don't have too much to worry about. Your box is a huge ported box so pressure levels woudn't be that high to make the MDF flex to the point that it messes with SQ.

HDF is still porous just like mdf.

HDF is still porous just like mdf.

I think that's the main problem, they both let air pass through the wood. By coating the inside with resin he sealed it up.

Yea that's what I was saying.

WTF???? I attended a siminar a long time ago in which we tested all kinds of materials. NONE OF THEM WOULD LEAK AIR. Not even fiberboard. They had little boxes made out of different material and actually metered the pressure. The problem isn't with airleaking (when properly built) but with the wood flexing. That's where HDF comes in. It is much more rigid. You could actually see the boxes flexing when filmed and replayed in slow motion. The amount of airleaking was minimal at most. It was stated that the subs themselves would leak more than the boxes.

Now, I am not trying to be funny here but are you guys just messing with me here???? If you all are indeed "box makers" you should know this. Please come clean so the newbs understand this too.

no ones messing with you MDF and HDF really is pourous and does let air seep through that's y all spl competitors use some kind of hardener on the boxes..... Using the hadeners (resin polyuerethane ect...) also helps minimize the flexing of the wood.

Wow, never heard of that. The only thing I've seen other professionals do is double seal the seems but that's it. That siminar I am talking about I saw them have actual air chucks on these boxes with a pressure gauge. Granted it was only about 10lbs of air but after an hour, the gauge really didn't move.

Now, if your theory is correct and mine is wrong, how do you seal your paper coned sub? That's were all of your leaking is. Also, what good would it be to resin a box for airleaks like in ngsm's ported box? Like I said, you'd have to really get that resin soupy when applying it and be able to reapply it until to get it at least 1/8-1/4" for it to make it any more rigid.

You guys do know that HDF has more resin than wood don't you? Read up http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/materials.htm

http://www.keidel.com/design/select/cabinets-matl-eng.htm#HDF

Yup i know all about that Poncho...not really 100% on what all the other guys are talking about. But resin definitely does help seal up all the seams, and slightly adds to the strength. Also, I've searched...haven't been able to find a place *nearby* that sells 1" MDF or HDF at a reasonable price. May look harder next time... but this time it ws free Resin AND free help from my brother.

NG

well since nearly all subwoofer cones are laminated in some sort of soid material it wouldn't matter...... and I'm not sayin this is needed or should be done, but the wood is porous and if your nit picky then you should resin/poly it.

Wow, never heard of that. The only thing I've seen other professionals do is double seal the seems but that's it. That siminar I am talking about I saw them have actual air chucks on these boxes with a pressure gauge. Granted it was only about 10lbs of air but after an hour, the gauge really didn't move.

Now, if your theory is correct and mine is wrong, how do you seal your paper coned sub? That's were all of your leaking is. Also, what good would it be to resin a box for airleaks like in ngsm's ported box? Like I said, you'd have to really get that resin soupy when applying it and be able to reapply it until to get it at least 1/8-1/4" for it to make it any more rigid.

You guys do know that HDF has more resin than wood don't you? Read up http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/materials.htm

http://www.keidel.com/design/select/cabinets-matl-eng.htm#HDF

I've never tried because I keep forgetting, but I've read several things that say if you take a shop vac and put it on one side of a sheet of mdf, you can put a sheet of paper on the other side of the mdf and the shop vac will pull enough air through the mdf pores to hold the paper there.

And there aren't any subwoofer cones that are just plain paper (that I know of), they're heavily treated/sealed/hardened first, and at that point they're just as strong and "leak proof" as they need to be.

Well, again maybe this relates only to the MDF???? I don't have any in the shop but have plenty of HDF so we'll give the shopvac trick a try.

Sheesh... Use a router next time you cut the hole for your sub... That looks like balls. Either that or learn how to follow a compass line with a jigsaw.

P.S. - How did you paint the resin on inside the port? Must've been fun... Resin is hard to pick out of arm hair. :)

I like it, good job NG.....Also, how did you get the resin on the inside of the port evenly?

Sheesh... Use a router next time you cut the hole for your sub... That looks like balls. Either that or learn how to follow a compass line with a jigsaw.

P.S. - How did you paint the resin on inside the port? Must've been fun... Resin is hard to pick out of arm hair. :)


Who cares dude its not lie u see it once everythings installed.

Sheesh... Use a router next time you cut the hole for your sub... That looks like balls. Either that or learn how to follow a compass line with a jigsaw.

P.S. - How did you paint the resin on inside the port? Must've been fun... Resin is hard to pick out of arm hair. :)

Didn't have a compass that could draw a circle large enough for an 18" cut-out hole. Router circle jig isn't large enough either...so think before you speak ass-fuck...

NG

Didn't have a compass that could draw a circle large enough for an 18" cut-out hole. Router circle jig isn't large enough either...so think before you speak ass-fuck...

NG
Well, that's when you stop being a hillbilly and screw in a screw in the dead center of where you want the hole. Then, use a piece of twine exactly half of what you need and wa la, a perfect looking hole.

Man, can't remember when the last time I had to do that. All my holes are done on a CNC router :icon16:

I made my 15" circle with an extra piece of mdf with a screw in one side and a pencil in a hole on the other end. Worked like a charm once I figured out what size I actually wanted it. On my screw up sheet that I made the hole to big on, I used some of the center that was cut out and a pencil all glued together to mark an even line around the outside so I could enlarge it for a flush fit.

I finally got all the cutting, test fitting and wiring done today. I just have to glue and paint/carpet it, and it'll be done! I'll probably make a work log with pics and stuff later.

where the hell do you have access to a cnc router?.....(oh and yes i know exactly what that is....my dad a machineist *spelling*) Hell we looked at buying one from Boeing, (but we didn't have a way to get the damn thing off the truck, let along a building big enough for the thing, it weightd 73,000lbs all together).....So....is this a place you work, do you have one, or a friends work place

Just curious

-Ryan

Who cares dude its not lie u see it once everythings installed.
True, but really... This, coming from a guy who "designs custom enclosures." Look at those pilot holes... I bet he didn't even get all his screws to bite into wood, or at least some of them must be stripped out. I guess fortunately for us he's only designing them, not building them... :disappoin

Didn't have a compass that could draw a circle large enough for an 18" cut-out hole. Router circle jig isn't large enough either...so think before you speak ass-fuck...

NG

So what the hell did you do then, free-hand it? :screwy:
Listen to Poncho... It aint hard to make your own compass. Hell, you can easily make your own router jig with a piece of 1/4" material and a drill. The glide plate should be removable on your router so you can make all sorts of attachments, and if it's not, well then your router is just ghetto.

Seriously... Don't get all sandy-vagina just 'cause I'm giving you a little constructive criticism. Like, what are people supposed to think about your custom box designs after seeing that? Do you send them an envelope with an 8 1/2 x 11" sheet of lined paper with designs drawn free-hand in pencil crayon? I should hope not... :nono:

wheres your perfect work at..... just because he didn't wanna make a perfect hole doesn't mean he can't or doesn't know how to.

True, but really... This, coming from a guy who "designs custom enclosures." Look at those pilot holes... I bet he didn't even get all his screws to bite into wood, or at least some of them must be stripped out. I guess fortunately for us he's only designing them, not building them... :disappoin

So what the hell did you do then, free-hand it? :screwy:
Listen to Poncho... It aint hard to make your own compass. Hell, you can easily make your own router jig with a piece of 1/4" material and a drill. The glide plate should be removable on your router so you can make all sorts of attachments, and if it's not, well then your router is just ghetto.

Seriously... Don't get all sandy-vagina just 'cause I'm giving you a little constructive criticism. Like, what are people supposed to think about your custom box designs after seeing that? Do you send them an envelope with an 8 1/2 x 11" sheet of lined paper with designs drawn free-hand in pencil crayon? I should hope not... :nono:

Your a faggot and EVERY one of my boxes ever made is better than anything you could DREAM of making your entire life, period.

That circle was drawn with a nail in the middle and a string...half free hand. Sub fits PERFECTLY no wobble in any direction, all the screws bite thanx...even with how many times it's been in and out. Also, I can afford to make plenty of boxes...and try out TONS of products... so it's not like that box is going to be in there forever. It was build specifically so I could play the sub...and hear it... and it's exact to specs I designed.

As to me building boxes, I design and build them. The recieve all specs and a 2D AND 3D sketch of the box in SketchUP 4.0 Pro. Unlike you little boy, I have a 10,000 sq. ft. woodworking shop that I can use when building boxes for others (or myself...if I want to drive out to it). Every box of mine is built to the ut-most quality...talk to ANYONE who has bought a design OR a box from me.

So, any-time your fool-ish ignorant ass wants to stop by...so you can get put to shame in EVERY aspect of the 12v world...feel free. Till then...
http://img58.exs.cx/img58/2312/asshat1ew.jpg

And shut the fuck up in my thread...son...

NG

PS: And no...that's not me...

Oh and check out my Box thread on here...for just a FEW examples of boxes before they were visually finished off (i.e. carpet, paint, etc...)

NG

wheres your perfect work at..... just because he didn't wanna make a perfect hole doesn't mean he can't or doesn't know how to.
Way to edit your post, dumbass...

pwned


Your a faggot and EVERY one of my boxes ever made is better than anything you could DREAM of making your entire life, period.

Phew, with a temper like that it's no wonder your cuts are all crooked... Pretty bold claim considering you've never seen any of my work. Not that I'm here to toot my horn, so to speak, unlike you. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and post some pics of some of the work I've done in the next post since you seem to think that calling me out into some kind of pissing match will make me wither and fade away... Faggot.

That circle was drawn with a nail in the middle and a string...half free hand. Sub fits PERFECTLY no wobble in any direction, all the screws bite thanx...even with how many times it's been in and out. Also, I can afford to make plenty of boxes...and try out TONS of products... so it's not like that box is going to be in there forever. It was build specifically so I could play the sub...and hear it... and it's exact to specs I designed.

How the hell can it be "half free-hand?" It either is, or isn't. If you used that method, then the circle shoudl've been perfect, and therefore that cut you made with your bread knife should've been way nicer. I guess you were one of those kids that couldn't "color within the lines..." Oh, well. And no one really gives a shit how much you can "afford." If you're so rich, why the hell are you charging people $10 for box designs?

As to me building boxes, I design and build them. The recieve all specs and a 2D AND 3D sketch of the box in SketchUP 4.0 Pro. Unlike you little boy, I have a 10,000 sq. ft. woodworking shop that I can use when building boxes for others (or myself...if I want to drive out to it). Every box of mine is built to the ut-most quality...talk to ANYONE who has bought a design OR a box from me.

So, any-time your fool-ish ignorant ass wants to stop by...so you can get put to shame in EVERY aspect of the 12v world...feel free. Till then...

Hmm... Well this "little boy" is calling bullshit. I'm sorry, but anyone with half a brain can go to www.linearteam.org and download WinISD and have a basic box design whipped up within 20 minutes. It'll even calculate dimensions. It may not do fancy 3D sketches, but it gets the job done. As for construction, OK so maybe most people don't have access to a wood shop, but most big box hardware shops (Home Depot, Rona, Lowes) have panel saws on site that can do most of the ripping free of charge. They probably wont cut odd angles, but hell... Even base model table saws will have those features. But what do I know... My ignorant ass will just be put to shame by your supreme building skills. I have no doubt that all your work is of ut-most quality; I guess this particular one just slipped by your watchful eye...

And shut the fuck up in my thread...son...

NG

PS: And no...that's not me...

Well how about this, dad? No.
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/picard.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

So, any-time your fool-ish ignorant ass wants to stop by...so you can get put to shame in EVERY aspect of the 12v world...feel free. Till then...
http://img58.exs.cx/img58/2312/asshat1ew.jpg

And shut the fuck up in my thread...son...

NG

PS: And no...that's not me...


I don't see anything senor douche-o....

I don't use shitty as WinISD..it's off by a noticeable amount as far as port length. Bass Box Pro 6 for me...

NG

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/swift_06.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Custom dual 12" ported box for a pair of Orion H2s, constructed with 1" MDF. Finished in black enamel, vinyl and fake diamond plating. About 2.4ft^3 per sub with 37 sq. inches of port each, tuned to 40Hz
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/project_25.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Triple 10" fibreglass project...
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/IMG_4474.JPG (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Another one for a different customer...
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/conrad_19.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Same design, three 12" Fosgate P3s. This design attracted a lot of attention last year...
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/tuba_09.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Tuba24 horn-loaded sub enclosure. Uses a single 10" driver with a very long path length to increase effeciency. This thing shakes the walls with 16W of input. Box designed by Bill Fitzmaurice, built by myself.

These are just a few of the ones I've built... I only started photographing them last summer.

Oh, and here's my current set-up in my car right now...

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/celeb_13.1.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

Pyramid > you.

where the hell do you have access to a cnc router?.....(oh and yes i know exactly what that is....my dad a machineist *spelling*) Hell we looked at buying one from Boeing, (but we didn't have a way to get the damn thing off the truck, let along a building big enough for the thing, it weightd 73,000lbs all together).....So....is this a place you work, do you have one, or a friends work place

Just curious

-Ryan
It at a place that I used to be a production engineer at. It's a wood machine shop. They make anything from bowling lanes to pool tables. Most of the Panera Bread displays across the nation were made there and all AMF bowling stuff. They'll do boxes for me when needed. They also have a CNC table saw which comes in handy. Small stuff I'll cut at the shop but anything special is done there. Many times I use 1" HDF just so I can flush mount the sub or whatever it is I am messing with.

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/swift_06.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Custom dual 12" ported box for a pair of Orion H2s, constructed with 1" MDF. Finished in black enamel, vinyl and fake diamond plating. About 2.4ft^3 per sub with 37 sq. inches of port each, tuned to 40Hz
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/project_25.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Triple 10" fibreglass project...
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/IMG_4474.JPG (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Another one for a different customer...
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/conrad_19.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Same design, three 12" Fosgate P3s. This design attracted a lot of attention last year...
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/tuba_09.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Tuba24 horn-loaded sub enclosure. Uses a single 10" driver with a very long path length to increase effeciency. This thing shakes the walls with 16W of input. Box designed by Bill Fitzmaurice, built by myself.

These are just a few of the ones I've built... I only started photographing them last summer.


That looks more professional than any other boxes I've seen on here. I like that silver one with the 3 Crunches. That looks simular to the one I am building for my 2 DEI SX 10" woofers. At least it doesn't look gay like others on here. :eek7:

That looks more professional than any other boxes I've seen on here. I like that silver one with the 3 Crunches. That looks simular to the one I am building for my 2 DEI SX 10" woofers. At least it doesn't look gay like others on here. :eek7:

:rolleyes:

NG

PS: Glad to see some of your work... so I take it your just an installer...anyways, my setup up is in tip-top shape product wise. This spring/summer will be aesthetics over-haul time...my truck is old...keeping it till it dies then buying a brand new one. So, I won't be doing anything too outlandish...

PPS: I can't believe that dynamat is SHOWING...you call yourself a professional installer? I can't believe you built an enclosure out of plywood...and not 1" or HDF (:rolleyes: that was for poncho) And you've got to be joking me...is that for real your setup at the end?

Performance > Looks (if you don't think so...i guess audiopawn is your fav brand)

I dunno but I'm gunna venture to guess you didn't do that shit as to seeing how shitty your setup is. Wires all over the place shitty ass amps......hmmmmm its not that hard to get pics online....... and if that is your shit then why wouldn't you make your ca better? I mean your car SHOULD be your best eample of what you can do.

I dunno but I'm gunna venture to guess you didn't do that shit as to seeing how shitty your setup is. Wires all over the place shitty ass amps......hmmmmm its not that hard to get pics online....... and if that is your shit then why wouldn't you make your ca better? I mean your car SHOULD be your best eample of what you can do.

Tis true, my install shows a little example of what I'm able to do. As stated before, the sub for my "shitty cut-out" fits great...so slipping or sliding each way. The screws I use ARE not stripped...they've been in and out a few times and all of the still grip tight ;)

If you came and looked at my box, it's the best plain MDF box you'll prolly ever see. All cuts are 100% exact and square. The box is sealed with caulk and resin...the outside...all corners are rounded and the entire box is sanded down with a belt sander and a DA sander with 120, 200, then 400 grit sand paper. Smoothest, sexiest feeling MDF box ever.

My products, performance, install are of the utmost performance. I don't cheap out on my own products, the SQ and Output are amazing. So, let's see some more pics of YOUR personal vehicle. peace

NG

:rolleyes:

NG

PS: Glad to see some of your work... so I take it your just an installer...anyways, my setup up is in tip-top shape product wise. This spring/summer will be aesthetics over-haul time...my truck is old...keeping it till it dies then buying a brand new one. So, I won't be doing anything too outlandish...

PPS: I can't believe that dynamat is SHOWING...you call yourself a professional installer? I can't believe you built an enclosure out of plywood...and not 1" or HDF (:rolleyes: that was for poncho) And you've got to be joking me...is that for real your setup at the end?

Performance > Looks (if you don't think so...i guess audiopawn is your fav brand)

I dunno but I'm gunna venture to guess you didn't do that shit as to seeing how shitty your setup is. Wires all over the place shitty ass amps......hmmmmm its not that hard to get pics online....... and if that is your shit then why wouldn't you make your ca better? I mean your car SHOULD be your best eample of what you can do.

:lol:
Bwahahahaha... I didn't think you'd actually take that old pic seriously, but whatever... Actually, that was one of my older setups many many moons ago in my old '87 Celebrity. Man, that car got worked in... Two Pyramid Reno series amps (600 Pyramid watts each, so about 75 realistically) and two Pyramid Phase III subs - old school. They were in a 5/8" ported box made with particle board, using toilet paper rolls as ports. :lol2: Yeah, we all have to start out somewhere, right? :) It was very ghetto-esque. Later on, once I pulled my head out of my ass I got some better equipment and learnt how to build a box...

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/celeb_5.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

A pair of Shivas in 2.0ft^3 sealed, driven by an MTX 6500D. I built that amp rack out of fibreglass, which I think was the first time I had ever touched resin... It was very messy, but functional. :) Sounded pretty damn good, although the trunk in that car rattled like crazy. You can see some more pics of that car on my Sounddomain page (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/221922). There were other setups in that car that weren't photographed, for example I ditched the Pyramid subs for some Legacy ones (big upgrade, I know :rolleyes:), I traded the MTX amp in for a Fosgate 1000BD, and then later a JBL 1200.1. As well, I aimed the subs forward into the cabin of the car and sealed off the trunk. This got rid of a LOT of the trunk rattling, and it sounded great. I had that car for I think a year and a half, and then retired it in favour of a '95 Pontiac Sunfire...

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/sunfire_8p.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

A JVC KD-SX980. Nothing special... I wanted a cheap mp3 deck, so that's what I got. :) It never broke down in the 3 years I had it.

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/sunfire_7p.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/sunfire_6p.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
Got a good deal on an Infinity Perfect 6.1 component set, so I built some kickpanels for them. It took a little getting used to the clutch being so close... They sounded alright. Lacking midbass, but then I had no amp for them until recently. They take gobs of power.

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/Brahma.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

I didn't take any pics of the completed trunk in that car, but here's the box with the Brahma 15 MK1. It's about 2.85ft^3 sealed, 3/4" MDF with substantial internal bracing. Finished in charcoal grey carpet - nothing too fancy. I only had it in the Sunfire for a short period of time; my JBL 1200.1 literally caught on fire a couple of winters ago, so I was bassless for some time. Recently I picked up an MTX MXA6004 4-channel amp (75x4 @ 4 ohms, 150x4 @ 2 ohms, 300x2 @ 4 ohms bridged) which drove the component set AND the Brahma quite nicely... Very impressed with this amp. I've recently traded in the Sunfire, however, for a 2000 Grand Am. Haven't had the time to put my equipment in it lately, but when I pick up a new HU I'll be putting everything back in. I originally had the Shivas in the sunfire in a smaller box (about 1.5ft^3), which I sold and then bought a pair of Perfect 12.1Ds. Blew those with subsonic frequencies in a ported box (no SSF on the 1200.1), but luckily got a warranty exchange and sold them in favour of the B15. There you have it...

OK so you run Adire, but install Fosbreak and Orion? Honestly I don't think you did those installs.

:lol:
Bwahahahaha... I didn't think you'd actually take that old pic seriously, but whatever... Actually, that was one of my older setups many many moons ago in my old '87 Celebrity. Man, that car got worked in... Two Pyramid Reno series amps (600 Pyramid watts each, so about 75 realistically) and two Pyramid Phase III subs - old school. They were in a 5/8" ported box made with particle board, using toilet paper rolls as ports. :lol2: Yeah, we all have to start out somewhere, right? :) It was very ghetto-esque. Later on, once I pulled my head out of my ass I got some better equipment and learnt how to build a box...


A pair of Shivas in 2.0ft^3 sealed, driven by an MTX 6500D. I built that amp rack out of fibreglass, which I think was the first time I had ever touched resin... It was very messy, but functional. :) Sounded pretty damn good, although the trunk in that car rattled like crazy. You can see some more pics of that car on my Sounddomain page (http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/221922). There were other setups in that car that weren't photographed, for example I ditched the Pyramid subs for some Legacy ones (big upgrade, I know :rolleyes:), I traded the MTX amp in for a Fosgate 1000BD, and then later a JBL 1200.1. As well, I aimed the subs forward into the cabin of the car and sealed off the trunk. This got rid of a LOT of the trunk rattling, and it sounded great. I had that car for I think a year and a half, and then retired it in favour of a '95 Pontiac Sunfire...

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/sunfire_8p.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)

A JVC KD-SX980. Nothing special... I wanted a cheap mp3 deck, so that's what I got. :) It never broke down in the 3 years I had it.


Got a good deal on an Infinity Perfect 6.1 component set, so I built some kickpanels for them. It took a little getting used to the clutch being so close... They sounded alright. Lacking midbass, but then I had no amp for them until recently. They take gobs of power.


I didn't take any pics of the completed trunk in that car, but here's the box with the Brahma 15 MK1. It's about 2.85ft^3 sealed, 3/4" MDF with substantial internal bracing. Finished in charcoal grey carpet - nothing too fancy. I only had it in the Sunfire for a short period of time; my JBL 1200.1 literally caught on fire a couple of winters ago, so I was bassless for some time. Recently I picked up an MTX MXA6004 4-channel amp (75x4 @ 4 ohms, 150x4 @ 2 ohms, 300x2 @ 4 ohms bridged) which drove the component set AND the Brahma quite nicely... Very impressed with this amp. I've recently traded in the Sunfire, however, for a 2000 Grand Am. Haven't had the time to put my equipment in it lately, but when I pick up a new HU I'll be putting everything back in. I originally had the Shivas in the sunfire in a smaller box (about 1.5ft^3), which I sold and then bought a pair of Perfect 12.1Ds. Blew those with subsonic frequencies in a ported box (no SSF on the 1200.1), but luckily got a warranty exchange and sold them in favour of the B15. There you have it...

Sweet, glad to see we can actually tlak instead of just critisize eachother. And how do we know that all of you damn speaker cut-outs are perfect circles...they're not showing :lol:

Anyway, Glad to see a brahma in there. Port it REAL low...and she will come...loudly and good-ly (haha, good-ly...definitely not a word). Anyways, you could've posted that in my "Subwoofers you have owned" thread. Anyways, later...

NG

OK so you run Adire, but install Fosbreak and Orion? Honestly I don't think you did those installs.
Hmm... Well you can think what you like. I don't know of any other way to "prove" it to you, but I guess I just don't care enough to try. If you do find those pictures anywhere else on the net from someone claiming to do the work, please let me know mmkay. kthxbai

Sweet, glad to see we can actually tlak instead of just critisize eachother. And how do we know that all of you damn speaker cut-outs are perfect circles...they're not showing :lol:

Anyway, Glad to see a brahma in there. Port it REAL low...and she will come...loudly and good-ly (haha, good-ly...definitely not a word). Anyways, you could've posted that in my "Subwoofers you have owned" thread. Anyways, later...

NG
No doubt... The problem with enthusiasts is that they're so easily peeved. :) Way too opinionated. Sorry if I came off as a dick, but the opening was there (no pun intended), so I took it. :biggrin:

I think I will port the B15... I have a little more trunk room to work with, so I may try that in the future. It already gets crazy loud and low in that sealed box, but you know how things are... Never enough bass. :)

Later.

No doubt... The problem with enthusiasts is that they're so easily peeved. .........

Later.

That's because the audio forums are loaded with pubicent punks that talk too many times out of their ass. I have the same problem with the public at my shop. This is the main reason I do not like retail and rather just do my wholesale stuff.

That's because the audio forums are loaded with pubicent punks that talk too many times out of their ass. I have the same problem with the public at my shop. This is the main reason I do not like retail and rather just do my wholesale stuff.
Haha, yeah for sure... I know exactly what you're talking about. But sometimes when those punks walk in just after being approved for thousands of dollars in credit, you have to deal with the BS and be their best friends for fifteen minutes. :) And then kick them the hell out of the install bay until the job is done.

You say you wholesale... Do you have an online company???

That's because the audio forums are loaded with pubicent punks that talk too many times out of their ass. I have the same problem with the public at my shop. This is the main reason I do not like retail and rather just do my wholesale stuff.

:rolleyes: :shakehead :nono: :lol:

NG

And sometimes those punks know more about car audio then you could ever dream of knowing.

And sometimes those punks know more about car audio then you could ever dream of knowing.
Isn't that funny :loser:

Haha, yeah for sure... I know exactly what you're talking about. But sometimes when those punks walk in just after being approved for thousands of dollars in credit, you have to deal with the BS and be their best friends for fifteen minutes. :) And then kick them the hell out of the install bay until the job is done.

You say you wholesale... Do you have an online company???
I use to wholesale online but since the government stepped in, it really wasn't worth the trouble since I didn't do all that much anyway. I whole locally to dealers and other retailers.

http://img46.exs.cx/img46/1007/p32713885td.th.jpg (http://img46.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img46&image=p32713885td.jpg)


Nice hole....that is round if ive never seen one :loser:

as for resin...MDF soaks up anything liquid you put on it...gallons of water based paint can go into a 4x8 sheet before it stops soaking it up (which is why you prime with acrylic based...) MDF will soak plenty of resin up making it much stiffer... HDF is good but it is even more of a pain to work with... with HDF i just about want to use a carbine tiped blade...too bad they dont make thoes for jig saws...of course for HDF i use a router to cut holes...not a jig saw...and a table saw instead of a circular saw.
Even still, with HDF it is a good idea to slap some resin or something...especially in extreme applications; and if you are using HDF it is extreme anyway unless you are a flex freak...that .001 mm of flex with 3/4 mdf is too much for your JL w0's.