Clutch Fluid

Hi, my clutch lost all tension untill it was pressed about halfway down then it would have a bit of tension, that happend 2 days ago. This morning when i went to start the car, it started... i went to put it in gear and it would not go into gear when it was started, i checked teh clutch fluid and it was competely empty and it is smoking when it is running now (from the exhaust) i added fluid, however it did not help? Does teh clutch need to be bled? or is there a hole in the hose? i have no idea. Thanks for any input.

The clutch slave has blown or the line is leaking. You bleed by rapidly pumping the pedal. You may be able to recover enough use to drive it somewhere, but if the leak is massive, it's not gonna happen. Have somebody pump the clutch while you watch under the hood and see where it is leaking from. It's going out onto the exhaust manifold or pipe, sounds like. Just follow the smoke. If it appears to be coming from the transaxle's motor side, it's the slave cylinder that blew. As you pump it, watch and add fluid before it empties out, to keep from getting more air in. In this way, you might get some action from the clutch. If it leaks from the master cylinder on top, that's a pretty easy fix.

Alright ill check it out. Thanks!

where do you add the clutch fluid in a 94 accord lx and what kind do i use?

The spot where the fluid goes is most likely in teh top right hand corner under the hood, check your manual and it will tell you where it is. And you use break fluid for teh clutch.

samething happened to me about 1 1/2 months ago. i could find a leak anywhere. i filled the clutch fluid back up and bleed the clutch and its been working fine every since

samething happened to me about 1 1/2 months ago. i could find a leak anywhere. i filled the clutch fluid back up and bleed the clutch and its been working fine every since


It is possible. Like a brake cylinder, fluid level drops as the piston has to travel farther to make up for lining wear, same with a clutch, that why a hydraulic clutch doesn't need adjustment. They usually work fine right up to where they suck some air in the port, then it's all over. But filling and purging the air will bring it back. But being they said they have fluid burning off the exhaust, I think it's not good.

It was the master cylinder that went. I just got a call from the garage. How long approx. should that take to replace? They told me a few hours, but i want to be sure they arn't ripping me off, they are one of two garages where i live lol, thanks.

It was the master cylinder that went. I just got a call from the garage. How long approx. should that take to replace? They told me a few hours, but i want to be sure they arn't ripping me off, they are one of two garages where i live lol, thanks.

you could prolly be able to do in about an hour. master cylinder is quick replacement. its just bleeding the brakes that may take a little while. if you know how to take the master cylinder off and bleed the brakes i would do it myself

Um --- it's the CLUTCH, 95 cord! :iceslolan

If it was the master and not the slave, no more than two hours labor would be my guess. Probably less than that, but you never know. It's just like doing a brake master cylinder, and most of them take an hour or so tops. But by the time you bleed and test, you've got a couple of hours in it.

I've just got done putting in a new master cylinder, I bled and bled the lines for about 30 min and I dont see any difference. The pedal is maybe a little bit tighter than it was before but it still doesnt wanna come back up from the floor.

Do I need to keep bleeding or should I replace the slave cylinder next and start over again??

BTW... there's no leaks, everything is dry.

After replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the system, it might take a few minutes of pumping the clutch to biuld pressure back up. If it's been a little while and still no pressure, then I would double check and re bleed the system.

I've just got done putting in a new master cylinder, I bled and bled the lines for about 30 min and I dont see any difference. The pedal is maybe a little bit tighter than it was before but it still doesnt wanna come back up from the floor.

Do I need to keep bleeding or should I replace the slave cylinder next and start over again??

BTW... there's no leaks, everything is dry.

Did you open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and bleed it?

Did you open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and bleed it?

Yep. I had two mechanics from work help me bleed it. But after pumping it for like 30 mins or so felt no difference in the pedal. He said there was more air comming through, all fluid. So he told me to check out the slave cylinder next. I just dont wanna run into the same problem with bleeding it again after putting in a new slave cyl.

Is there anything else I should look for if this slave cyl doesnt work?

Well, you wanna bleed from bottom to top, slave first, then master. After installation I like to just leave the bleeder screw out.

Then I fill the res, and leave the top off. Once fluid starts flowing nicely out at the slave bleeder, and the bubbles stop, put the screw in. If you are lucky, it has gravity bled, and the rest will purge just by pumping the pedal a few times.

Air likes to get trapped in bends in lines, and sometimes in the slave, tapping them lightly with a tool can get the air to float out instead of clinging to the surface inside.