Runs good cold, stalls when hot

I have a 1998 Villager, that runs perfectly fine when cold, but once it warms up it runs
rough and eventually stalls. New parts:dist cap and rotor, plugs, ign wires, ign coil,
air filter, ignition power transistor. The PVC works, it revs smoothly and with full power
when cold. Once engine is up to temperature, it starts to runs rough until it stalls.
Restarting is difficult unless you open the throttle some, but is so bad I let it stall.
I wonder it it has anything to do with the EGR circuit? Car has 145K miles on it.
Once this is solved I intend to replace the timing belt. There is a rattling sound around
the distributor, I read somewhere else that that means the timing belt is stretched. It is
the original timing belt. I wanted to test the EGRC solenoid, but I don't know how this
style of plug comes off. There is no vacuum in the lines leading to the EGR valve and EGRC_BPT valve.

have you checked the temperature sending unit? oxygen sensor?sounds like a 60 or $70 diagnostic fee would be money well spent. zero in on the source.

have you checked the temperature sending unit? oxygen sensor?sounds like a 60 or $70 diagnostic fee would be money well spent. zero in on the source.

Thanks for your input, I was looking at having a shop look at it, since it set no codes, except for one having to do with the transmission, but this problem occurs while it sits in the driveway, so I don't think it's important for this. Which O2 sensor( it has at least 2 and which temperatre sensor, I think there are several of them. Do you know how to unplug the wires from the EGRC selonoid( it responds to temperature), it looks just like the connector on the fuel injectors?

Hb, have you found out the problem yet? I'm having similar problems.....

I would look at the Throttle Position Sensor as a culprit.

I am experiencing a simmilar problem with my '96. I tool it to the dealer and got a computer scan done and the tech told me that it did not have any error codes. He also said that it would be best to leave the vehicle so they can tear down the engine and try to figure out whats going on...would take a week or so. I told him I'd think about it. BUT, in reading some of these post I think I'll try some more inexpensive ways first. First off I'm am going to get a new gas cap. Hopefully it was only a little vapor lock. We'll see. If my problem gets fixed I'll let you know what I did. Good Luck

My friends.. yo uare getting vapor lock, release vapor pressure by opening fuel line at fuel filter... it's going a be a lot of pressure relig (Mainly vapor), reconect fuel lines, put ignition swith at on-off position 3 times to cuild some pressure and crank engine. it will run normally after that, to prevent this from append again put some fuel at any gas station.. this will cool a little bit your fuel at fuel tank preventing vapor lock, permant solution on very hot weather places... aftermarket cooler...

Turns out it was in the distributor....The little timing plate underneath was dirty/faulty...Someone told me to try spraying the little holes clean with brake cleaner, but I had already replaced it...Don't know why it only did it when hot, (maybe cuz the computer was in cold start mode and compensated for the messed up signal). Never had a problem with it again...

Turns out it was in the distributor....The little timing plate underneath was dirty/faulty...Someone told me to try spraying the little holes clean with brake cleaner, but I had already replaced it...Don't know why it only did it when hot, (maybe cuz the computer was in cold start mode and compensated for the messed up signal). Never had a problem with it again...


THe thing you are talking about is the Camshaft position sensor. Yoou need to replace distributor when this fails. Best distributor is a Rich POrter Technologys distributor,from Orielys.