engine stalled while driving

My escort '95 stopped working yesterday. The engine stalled while I was driving on a freeway at a speed of 105 Km/hr. It happened when I climbed a ramp (not steep at all) and tried to speed up a little bit, but reversely, I found the speed was dropping down and the engine stalled. Finally, my car had to be towed home.

I am wondering what could be the problem. The driver of the towing truck told me possiblly the timing belt broke. But I looked up the maintenance schedule of my car, it doesn't say that I need to change timing belt at some time or mileage. My car had run 190K (Km). Any idea or analysis for the issue would be appreciated.

My escort '95 stopped working yesterday. The engine stalled while I was driving on a freeway at a speed of 105 Km/hr. It happened when I climbed a ramp (not steep at all) and tried to speed up a little bit, but reversely, I found the speed was dropping down and the engine stalled. Finally, my car had to be towed home.

I am wondering what could be the problem. The driver of the towing truck told me possiblly the timing belt broke. But I looked up the maintenance schedule of my car, it doesn't say that I need to change timing belt at some time or mileage. My car had run 190K (Km). Any idea or analysis for the issue would be appreciated.

IMHO the tow truck driver is probably right. This is easily checked. There are two nuts on the timing belt cover to remove, and the timing belt can be examined. It could be broken, or stripped at the bottom crankshaft sprocket.
Unfortunately, the timing belt interval is not specified in many of the manuals, or it will say: "Manufacturer does not recommend a specific maintenance interval" The good practice intervals are determined by the engine size, and valve train type. You haven't told us the size or type of valve train your engine has. In any case, the recommended range is 97,000km - 162,000km depending on the engine specifics or 72 months.

IMHO the tow truck driver is probably right. This is easily checked. There are two nuts on the timing belt cover to remove, and the timing belt can be examined. It could be broken, or stripped at the bottom crankshaft sprocket.
Unfortunately, the timing belt interval is not specified in many of the manuals, or it will say: "Manufacturer does not recommend a specific maintenance interval" The good practice intervals are determined by the engine size, and valve train type. You haven't told us the size or type of valve train your engine has. In any case, the recommended range is 97,000km - 162,000km depending on the engine specifics or 72 months.

btw partsamerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com/MaintenanceTypes.aspx?stypename=Enhanced&maintschedid=3766) (my car is shown) and ford.com have maintance schedules online

Maintenance ItemsFirst ServiceService IntervalPartsLabor Action
Timing Belt (http://www.partsamerica.com/MaintenanceDefinitions.aspx?stypename=Enhanced&svc=106849&maintschedid=3766)60,000http://www.partsamerica.com/images/spaclear.gif60,000http://www.partsamerica.com/images/spaclear.gif$39http://www.partsamerica.com/images/spaclear.gif$91http://www.partsamerica.com/images/spaclear.gifProbable Replace

chevynOva1,
Are the links you provided in conflict with the information provided in my post? I can't tell if you agree or disagree.
Regards,

chevynOva1,
Are the links you provided in conflict with the information provided in my post? I can't tell if you agree or disagree.
Regards,

Nope was not even directed at anyone. sorry. Was just showing what info is available through those sources I provided. Kinda cool to see the list of when to check and replace as needed.

I wonder if those numbers/ mileage are influenced by the manufacturer or parts companies?

Nope was not even directed at anyone. sorry. Was just showing what info is available through those sources I provided. Kinda cool to see the list of when to check and replace as needed.

I wonder if those numbers/ mileage are influenced by the manufacturer or parts companies?

Chevy,
No offense taken. I just wondered if you saw any big differences in my information and your data.

:2cents: I've tried to analyse the timing belt interval thing for a number of years. Of course the Ford Escort 60K interval started back in the 80's because of an 'Interference engine' such as the 1.6L SOHC. And I can see changing the belt as 'insurance' on interference engines. However, over the past twenty years the belt cord materials has changed from nylon to kevlar,(Gates Rubber Co) and the reliability has greatly increased. Because of the belt improvements and reliability data, belt manufacturers now recommend a much greater interval, on non-Interference engines ranging from 100K - 120K. Of course the interval should not be based on mileage alone, age, and operational conditions i.e. extreme cold (-20F) and hot (110+F) should be factored in. The belts should be examined for cracking, fraying etc. regardless of mileage, and replaced if the belts exhibit any defects.

My car's engine is 1.9L. It had been checked. Right, the problem is with the timing belt. It was not broken, but jumped, as the mechanic told me. Even though it was so, I changed it anyway.

As far as the life time of this timing belt is concerned, it did a great job (serving for 190K Kms), I suppose.

For a 95 Escort 1.9 , recommended timing belt change is every 96000 kms

Chevy,
No offense taken. I just wondered if you saw any big differences in my information and your data.

:2cents: I've tried to analyse the timing belt interval thing for a number of years. Of course the Ford Escort 60K interval started back in the 80's because of an 'Interference engine' such as the 1.6L SOHC. And I can see changing the belt as 'insurance' on interference engines. However, over the past twenty years the belt cord materials has changed from nylon to kevlar,(Gates Rubber Co) and the reliability has greatly increased. Because of the belt improvements and reliability data, belt manufacturers now recommend a much greater interval, on non-Interference engines ranging from 100K - 120K. Of course the interval should not be based on mileage alone, age, and operational conditions i.e. extreme cold (-20F) and hot (110+F) should be factored in. The belts should be examined for cracking, fraying etc. regardless of mileage, and replaced if the belts exhibit any defects.

Wow great info. My car has 88k now so its proberly time to pull the cover and see. I assume if I check it visualy and can get a brand name of sort off it would that tell me if its orignal? meaning will a factory have motorcraft on it? Im hoping its something I can handle (im sure it is) I have changed a rear end out of my nova, done starters, alts, tune ups, valve cover gaskets, water pumps and seems not much differnce in difficulty in changing timing belt. If there is a good replacement belt or a best (or even motorcraft) do you have a suggestion / price?

Wow great info. My car has 88k now so its proberly time to pull the cover and see. I assume if I check it visualy and can get a brand name of sort off it would that tell me if its orignal? meaning will a factory have motorcraft on it? Im hoping its something I can handle (im sure it is) I have changed a rear end out of my nova, done starters, alts, tune ups, valve cover gaskets, water pumps and seems not much differnce in difficulty in changing timing belt. If there is a good replacement belt or a best (or even motorcraft) do you have a suggestion / price?


I would stick with Motorcraft since we know the lifespan and we know it fits. Too much trouble to redo to save $10 on aftermarket. Most parts I try to stay original equipment, you have piece of mind always knowing it was designed for the Escort, and if something ever has to be done at the dealer, they see a complete Ford when the hood is opened and can never blame a failure on your use of aftermarket parts. I believe the published labour time is somewhere between 2.5-3.0 hours. Belt is about $ 60.00.
While your at it change the serp belt, since it's off. Check all pulleys, water pump , oil leaks etc. May save time in the future. Make sure you follow a shop manual for this one so the crank and cam are lined up. Not a bad job, just be patient

Have fun

My car's engine is 1.9L. It had been checked. Right, the problem is with the timing belt. It was not broken, but jumped, as the mechanic told me. Even though it was so, I changed it anyway.

As far as the life time of this timing belt is concerned, it did a great job (serving for 190K Kms), I suppose.

Good Service?......190K kms/118K miles, 120 months....absolutely!
Suggestion: You should consider changing the waterpump at the same time.
Question: Would you feel comfortable at replacing the belt next time at say 162km?
Thanks for the feedback,

Wow great info. My car has 88k now so its proberly time to pull the cover and see. I assume if I check it visualy and can get a brand name of sort off it would that tell me if its orignal? meaning will a factory have motorcraft on it? Im hoping its something I can handle (im sure it is) I have changed a rear end out of my nova, done starters, alts, tune ups, valve cover gaskets, water pumps and seems not much differnce in difficulty in changing timing belt. If there is a good replacement belt or a best (or even motorcraft) do you have a suggestion / price?

Chevy,
I don't know the year, size or type engine you have. If you provide that information, I can be more specific.
Most people I think rely on brand names as being the 'best'. One thing for sure, they will be the most expensive. Personally, the technical aspects of the replacement part is the most important to me. I use Gates belts because of the materials, and this choice has proven to be extremely serviceable. On one of my personal vehicles 1988 1.9L HO I exceeded 120,000 miles without failure, however, my normal replacement interval is 100,000 miles. (The car is nearing 400K). I do change the tension bar, idler, waterpump, and accessory drive belts at the same time, and rebuild the alternator.
The information out there on this subject is very subjective and the interval or brand is a matter of opinion. It's what ever you are comfortable with.

Did you run out of gas? Just kidding, sometimes things break before they are supposed to, so it would be a good idea to check your timing belt anyway. Some ideas are, air filter got clogged up, fuel filter got clogged up, battery died, cap and rotor need replacing, as well as spark plugs and wires, maybe fuel pump died. just do a tune up and see if it runs

Chevy,
I don't know the year, size or type engine you have. If you provide that information, I can be more specific.
Most people I think rely on brand names as being the 'best'. One thing for sure, they will be the most expensive. Personally, the technical aspects of the replacement part is the most important to me. I use Gates belts because of the materials, and this choice has proven to be extremely serviceable. On one of my personal vehicles 1988 1.9L HO I exceeded 120,000 miles without failure, however, my normal replacement interval is 100,000 miles. (The car is nearing 400K). I do change the tension bar, idler, waterpump, and accessory drive belts at the same time, and rebuild the alternator.
The information out there on this subject is very subjective and the interval or brand is a matter of opinion. It's what ever you are comfortable with.

My cars info is on my signature. 1999 2.0 sohc, 5 speed. I would assume the serpentine belt replacement I heard might as well do the water pump because the change in tension and you'd have to take it all apart if it starts leaking.
Great info alvin thanks will save it all. Where do I find the brand you mention? and what does it cost (i know subjective question) for you to do and and how long? btw how do you rebuild an alt?

My cars info is on my signature. 1999 2.0 sohc, 5 speed. I would assume the serpentine belt replacement I heard might as well do the water pump because the change in tension and you'd have to take it all apart if it starts leaking.
Great info alvin thanks will save it all. Where do I find the brand you mention? and what does it cost (i know subjective question) for you to do and and how long? btw how do you rebuild an alt?

Down at several parts stores today, and I checked on the timing belts:
AC Delco - $29.78, Dayco - $25.61, Clevite - $31.70, $Gates - 26.05, and Melling - $19.85. Gates Timing Belts were available at all the stores. The timing belt kits (belt & idler) are also available and they are approx. $61 - $65
The technical info I have shows the 1999 - 2000 2L SOHC gasoline Escort & Tracer: Inspect every 120K and replace as required.
How long does it take?......I don't know, I drink a lot of coffee and talk on the 'Forum' :naughty: I guess if I stayed with it, probably 3 - 4 hours. (not including the alternator.
How do I rebuild an alternator: If you don't have the special tools required to do the job, don't even think about it. I've seen a number of alternators where brushes short out and smoke the pig-tail wiring, melt connectors etc., so I've added this item to my maintenance schedule.
I also see where too much belt tension will cause the alternator front bearing to fail, and that will create some sparks as well.
Hope this answers some of your questions.

Down at several parts stores today, and I checked on the timing belts:
AC Delco - $29.78, Dayco - $25.61, Clevite - $31.70, $Gates - 26.05, and Melling - $19.85. Gates Timing Belts were available at all the stores. The timing belt kits (belt & idler) are also available and they are approx. $61 - $65
The technical info I have shows the 1999 - 2000 2L SOHC gasoline Escort & Tracer: Inspect every 120K and replace as required.
How long does it take?......I don't know, I drink a lot of coffee and talk on the 'Forum' :naughty: I guess if I stayed with it, probably 3 - 4 hours. (not including the alternator.
How do I rebuild an alternator: If you don't have the special tools required to do the job, don't even think about it. I've seen a number of alternators where brushes short out and smoke the pig-tail wiring, melt connectors etc., so I've added this item to my maintenance schedule.
I also see where too much belt tension will cause the alternator front bearing to fail, and that will create some sparks as well.
Hope this answers some of your questions.

Thanks again for the great infomation.