mobil 1 oil

hi guys, just wondering if it is still a good idea and if i would benefit from putting mobil 1 into my 2000 lt with 96k miles. i heard that after a while the engine gets pretty gunked up from the crude oil so putting synthetic in an already gunke dup engine doesnt do much, do you think this is the case with my 96k 4.3?? i pull the dipstick out sometimes to look at the oil and it looks very very clean, im impressed with it. i was just going to run a can of engine flush in it and change over to synth, btu if you guys dont think its worth it then i wont. i figured i would consult the pros first :-) thanks

It is well worth it.

mobil is a great oil and i have ran it for a few years and love it.
I would not do a engine flush though may do more harm than good.
You can do quick oil changes but mobil is pricey for that.May want to use a cheaper oil for that purpose. Chemical engine flushes I would not.

I would go with the flush. If you don't get the junk out it will just mix with the mobil1 and limit it's effectiveness.

Before my blazer, I had an 89 Z24 cavalier with a 2.8 liter. This had a 5 speed manual, and I used to just beat the heck out of it.

Anyway, at around 90,000 miles I switched to the Mobil 1 (no flush, just a regular oil and filter change) and when I sold the car last year, I had just turned 218,000 miles.

Car is still going strong for the new owner, doesn't leak oil, doesn't burn oil. I use it in the Blazer and my wife's minivan; spend the extra bucks for the synthetic; it's well worth it down the road.

hi guys, just wondering if it is still a good idea and if i would benefit from putting mobil 1 into my 2000 lt with 96k miles. i heard that after a while the engine gets pretty gunked up from the crude oil so putting synthetic in an already gunke dup engine doesnt do much, do you think this is the case with my 96k 4.3?? i pull the dipstick out sometimes to look at the oil and it looks very very clean, im impressed with it. i was just going to run a can of engine flush in it and change over to synth, btu if you guys dont think its worth it then i wont. i figured i would consult the pros first :-) thanks

Just make sure you DON'T use a Fram oil filter.

Any thoughts on the new claims by Mobil??? 15,000 miles between oil changes??

yes FRAM SUCKS!!!!!!!!! im gona go with the mobil 1 oil AND filter, nothing else for my baby :) thanks for the input guys, im still not sure though from what you guys are saying if its a good idea to do a flush or not? any final word? thanks :)

I would flush - Your mileage isn't that high and it would really help your syn oil to stay clean. Just remember to follow the directions to the letter and let ALL of the crap drip out. I would let it drip for at least a half hour or more then install a good filter. You may want to consider changing it again after 2-3k miles just to be sure all the junk is out.

excellent, thanks!! now any recommendations on a good engine flush? i hear the "GUNK" product is one of the better ones, i have always had good results with it. any other good ones, or is that the best one?

That is what I use, just idle it for 40-45 minutes in a WARM engine and remember, if you go over idle, you will cause damage.

its a myth that you HAVE to flush between changes, think of blend oil, its mixed synthetic and patrolium... i would just do the switch and then do a change at 1500, then go 5k... as to the new product clame, the oil will hold up for the 5k 7500 and 15k... but let me ask this, can the filter keep up for that long? i dont reccomend more then 5k on a filter, they get "stuff" (yeah i know its extreamly technical) into it and cloggs up and just goes through the blow by, which in turns means the filter isnt filtering anymore

its a myth that you HAVE to flush between changes, think of blend oil, its mixed synthetic and patrolium... i would just do the switch and then do a change at 1500, then go 5k... as to the new product clame, the oil will hold up for the 5k 7500 and 15k... but let me ask this, can the filter keep up for that long? i dont reccomend more then 5k on a filter, they get "stuff" (yeah i know its extreamly technical) into it and cloggs up and just goes through the blow by, which in turns means the filter isnt filtering anymore

poor advice,

You are asking him to not do a 3 dollar engine flush but instead change out a synthetic oil check after 1500miles?

$3 or $30?

You be the judge,

i dont like the flush products, ive told people how to do them, they dont listen (people i know are idiots i know) and wind up fu*ken up something because they get impatient... if you can be patient and read the directions and do it word for word, go for it, just know, that when they say dont rev the moter, that is exactly what is ment!

True, I understand that, but using a flush before going to synthetic is not a myth though.

That is what I was trying to make clear. ;)

^from what ive heard and seen, you dont need a flush, its reccomended to do, for competent people we can do it ourselves, but just switchen is not going to hurt anything, like i said b4 there are blended oils, which mix synthetic and patrolium based products

^from what ive heard and seen, you dont need a flush, its reccomended to do, for competent people we can do it ourselves, but just switchen is not going to hurt anything, like i said b4 there are blended oils, which mix synthetic and patrolium based products

The problem with switching isn't that the synthetic mixes with dino.

The problem is that after using dino for years, your engine gets a lot of crud in it. The synthetic has a far better cleaning ability than standard oil and when it is added to an engine full of dino crud, the synthetic will break the crud loose. The crud not only gets spread around the engine, but it also mixes with the synthetic and doesn't allow it to protect as good as it should.

That is why you should flush when switching.

I'v said it before!!!!! DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CRANKCASE OR GASTANK THAT DOES NOT BELONG THERE.....are you trying to fix a problem????or create one??? just put the oil in and your done!!!...simple eh...

well when it is a crank case oil additive, in this case a de gunker, where should i put it? crankcase would be my first suggestion, after reading the directions that told me to first, of corse.

I'v said it before!!!!! DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CRANKCASE OR GASTANK THAT DOES NOT BELONG THERE......

What's your point? An engine flush is designed to be added to the crankcase to clean it, what's he putting in that doesn't belong there?



just put the oil in and your done!!!...simple eh...

read the post right above yours it tells why you shouldn't just put the oil in.

thanks guys, you all are awesome. im gonna get the stuff and do it, its official. thanks again you are all great!

I'v said it before!!!!! DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CRANKCASE OR GASTANK THAT DOES NOT BELONG THERE.....are you trying to fix a problem????or create one??? just put the oil in and your done!!!...simple eh...

Doing a crankcase flush everyonce in a while does no harm.

I am currently using Ato-RX for my truck so I can get rid of some of the sludge buildup in my oil system.

I repeat "are you trying to fix or create a problem"what problem is he having that would require an engine flush????dam there are people out there that drive honda's and toyota's for 4hundred thou's plus miles and still know what a engine flush is.

I repeat "are you trying to fix or create a problem"what problem is he having that would require an engine flush????dam there are people out there that drive honda's and toyota's for 4hundred thou's plus miles and still know what a engine flush is.

Does that mean that all engines do not get sludged up and lose power?..... NO

Running a flush through every 100,000 miles is just a way to get rid of any sludge deposits that will start to form and restrict oil flow.

Hell, GM uses them and they make the motors.

I don't have that many miles on. It's a 2000 also. Still I am skeptical of any flushes and additives although I've used a few on other cars. I just put in Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter and did it over in a few hundred miles figuring that the syn might clean it up that way. But Synthetic seeps a little on mine. I've noticed oil wet areas and a few drips hanging places that were bone dry with conventional oil. Mostly at the front and back of the engine, not really around the pan. Some people say that's normal. Is that normal for a 5 year old vehicle with some 21,000 miles on it when switching to synthetic?

Not normal at all.

You can't blame oil for engine seal leaks.

Not normal at all.

You can't blame oil for engine seal leaks.

I'm not blaming the oil, but.......... three days after I switched my Blazer to Mobil1 the rear main seal started leaking. Seems like a pretty big coincidence.

I repeat "are you trying to fix or create a problem"what problem is he having that would require an engine flush????dam there are people out there that drive honda's and toyota's for 4hundred thou's plus miles and still know what a engine flush is.

You are right there is a risk when flushing an engine, but the risk associated with flushing an engine having less than 100,000 miles is minimal, as long as the directions are followed. The risk does still exist, ultimately it is up to him if he wants to take it or not. A flush is not required when switching to synthetic, but if you do not flush, the synthetic's effectiveness will be limited. He asked for our opinions and most of us agree that the risk is so minimal, it will be worth doing a flush to achieve the maximum potential of the synthetic. The advice we give is nothing that we have not or would not do to our own vehicles.

BTW. You can not compare an honda or toyota engine to an american V6....... get real, man.

Switching to synthetic at that mileage and getting a leak is a sign of a poor seal.

Synthetic will not cause the leak, but will be actually cleaning and sludge around it.

Switching to synthetic at that mileage and getting a leak is a sign of a poor seal.

Synthetic will not cause the leak, but will be actually cleaning and sludge around it.
Well then, I say, leave it to GM to make a seal that last 21,000 miles.
I should have bought a Ford.

Well then, I say, leave it to GM to make a seal that last 21,000 miles.
I should have bought a Ford.

well then i say thats a typical ford owner to come to a chevy forum and badmouth our cars!

well then i say thats a typical ford owner to come to a chevy forum and badmouth our cars!
I don't own a Ford. I'm pissed at the seals. If they make better seals, I'll shut up. I like my Blazer, it's one of the few SUVs that can actually go off road in stock form. I'm just venting because I don't want oil wetness because I'm nitpicky and spend more time under the thing cleaning and inspecting, touching up paint chips, etc., than most owners do under the hood. I switched to synthetic because I want to do the best I know how for the engine.
And, where are my manners? Thanks Blazer LT for the info.

Well then, I say, leave it to GM to make a seal that last 21,000 miles.
I should have bought a Ford.

So you can have a tranny that goes out at the same time that your rear oil seals go? :evillol:

I don't own a Ford. I'm pissed at the seals. If they make better seals, I'll shut up. I like my Blazer, it's one of the few SUVs that can actually go off road in stock form. I'm just venting because I don't want oil wetness because I'm nitpicky and spend more time under the thing cleaning and inspecting, touching up paint chips, etc., than most owners do under the hood. I switched to synthetic because I want to do the best I know how for the engine.
And, where are my manners? Thanks Blazer LT for the info.

No problem.

Although they may leak for a bit, most synthetics will recondition and reswell the seals with time.

Although they may leak for a bit, most synthetics will recondition and reswell the seals with time.
Well it's not a major problem, I guess. Not really trashing the garage floor or anything, just oily damp on some parts of the engine -and I'm used to totally dry. I'll give it some time, it (syn) hasn't been in all that long. I might do 10W-30 Mobil 1 instead of 5W-30 later on and see if it makes a difference. I like to use a little heavier in the summer anyway even if it means one extra or premature oil and filter change per year.

Well it's not a major problem, I guess. Not really trashing the garage floor or anything, just oily damp on some parts of the engine -and I'm used to totally dry. I'll give it some time, it (syn) hasn't been in all that long. I might do 10W-30 Mobil 1 instead of 5W-30 later on and see if it makes a difference. I like to use a little heavier in the summer anyway even if it means one extra or premature oil and filter change per year.

10w30 is not a heavier oil than 5w30, they are both 30 weights at operating temperatures.

10w30 is not a heavier oil than 5w30, they are both 30 weights at operating temperatures.
Hmmmm...good point. Maybe I should leave 5W-30 in all year?
I've heard many people say not to use a 5W-XX in severe conditions, like trailer towing in the summer, etc. Is that pretty much a myth?

Hmmmm...good point. Maybe I should leave 5W-30 in all year?
I've heard many people say not to use a 5W-XX in severe conditions, like trailer towing in the summer, etc. Is that pretty much a myth?

Yip, complete myth.

5w30 can be used all year around.

I use 0w30 myself.

isnt 0w the same as sae?

Yip, complete myth.

5w30 can be used all year around.

I use 0w30 myself.

Cool. That'll save me, like, $25 'cause I've got about 10qt. of 5W-30 on hand. (I hate having to run to the FLAPS first on car maintenance day)
Thanks again! :biggrin:

isnt 0w the same as sae?

No.

o ok, jw because ive never seen 0w anything here

It's great stuff.

You have 0w30 and 0w40 there.

alright, ill keep an eye out for it

go with napa gold filters long life nitrle back flow valves no dry starts and real good filtering

go with napa gold filters long life nitrle back flow valves no dry starts and real good filtering

True, Napa Gold's are good filters and I believe they are made by Wix.

Yes, they are made by WIX. I use them myself. They are great filters. The anti-drainback valve is awesome. I have quieter start-ups with the NAPA GOLD than I did with AC DELCO.

I'm not blaming the oil, but.......... three days after I switched my Blazer to Mobil1 the rear main seal started leaking. Seems like a pretty big coincidence.

Did you ever fix the seal? Whas it dripping that bad?

I haven't fixed it. When it first started I would have a 3 -4 inch diameter puddle under it. When I topped it off I decided to add a little extra, I read on hear somewhere that it was recommended to overfil a little to prevent the seal from leaking. After I added the extra oil (1/4 -1//2 a quart above full) the leak slowed and now I only see 2 or 3 drops.